UN-BEATO-BLE AGED STEAKS

Isn't this a magnificent piece of steak? Mind you, this scrumptious Porterhouse cut has been aged for about 25 days so its natural meaty flavour was even more intense. For the uninitiated, the fuss over aged steaks boils down to this sign displayed outside The Beato Steakhouse.

Danny Choi, who is Korean and has lived many years in the US - See more at: http://www.themalaysianinsider.com/food/article/the-juice-on-beef-at-the-beato/#sthash.bC6GT6Dn.dpuf

Danny Choi - the man behind Beato tells us that the word means 'blessed', 'blissful' or 'happy' in Italian. Ardent beef and steak lovers who step into Choi's steakhouse in Publika are blessed indeed for his restaurant is just the place to appreciate and savour glorious cuts of aged steaks.

The specially built temperature-controlled dry-aging compartment with slabs of Himalayan salt are piled in one corner is given pride of place in front of Beato. From the glass window, you can easily view hunks of beef that are undergoing the dry-aging process. Dry-aged beef tends to have greater concentration of the meaty flavour and better tenderness as the dry-aging process causes natural enzymes in the beef break down connective muscle tissues whilst intensifying its inherent flavour.

Awash in warm, mellow lighting, Beato's mod industrial chic interior (think red bricks, raw concrete floor and wood trimmed bar) is fuss-free yet cosily welcoming.

Although aged steaks rule here, the menu proffers some non-beef options too. Warm up your appetite with warm bread rolls - deliciously comforting when spread with butter and the house olive tapenade.

However, the limelight belongs to Beato's sublime Bruschetta (RM15) - a defyingly simple and thickly cut slice of crusty white country bread piled high with juicy cherry tomatoes and cream cheese. Dribbled with balsamic vinegar and honey, the burst of bright colours and soul-lifting accents literally knocked our socks off.

Aged for 25 days, our medium rare serving of 775g Porterhouse (RM38/100g) was adorned with grilled caramelised garlic and a lemon wedge. While the seared outer crust yielded a well-rounded gaminess with hints of flinty minerals to it, we found different marbling of the strip steak and fillet flanking each side of the T-bone allowed us to relish the variation of each cut's chewy succulence. Adding dollops of Dijon and wholegrain mustard or horseradish simply enlivened the taste and flavour dimensions.

The 344g Ribeye (RM39/100g) boasted more noticeably buttery-tender texture with mellower beefy nuance. Best enjoyed medium rare, the steak was speckled with coarse sea salt to enhance its deep, full-bodied flavour.

Balance your meaty quota with assorted side dishes of grilled asparagus (RM14), corn (RM8), zucchini (RM9), sauteed mushroom (RM15), sweet potato fries (RM14) or mashed potato (RM14).

Our faves were the mushrooms, sweet potato fries and creamy potato mash; all left indelible impressions on our palate as their textures and delicate taste profiles acted as counterpoints to the stellar steaks.

Those who eschew beef can still eat well at Beato. We'd recommend the notable Half A Roast Chicken (RM39) with grilled mixed vegetables. The moist poultry came fully suffused with the sweet pungency of its garlic marinade.

Another viable option is Lamb Rack (RM59); cooked to blush pink at the core, the whole rack is lightly encrusted with crushed walnuts, breadcrumbs, honey and wholegrain mustard. Naturally, we picked the bones clean on this speciality.

In case you have companions who prefer fish, try Baked Salmon with Smoked Salmon Salad. The smoked salmon salad tossed with balsamic vinaigrette served as the base for the substantial salmon fillet which slightly flaky on the outside. The centre remained spot-on pink.

Sweet options are kept simple with Dried Fruits (RM19) emerging as the conversation-stopper. The basic ensemble of dehydrated slices of kiwifruit, pineapple and banana complemented by fresh blueberries, strawberries and lemon curd surprised us with bursts of concentrated fruity sweetness.

Chocolate fanatics would adore the decadently luscious Chocolate Lava (RM11) and Chocolate Mousse (RM18). Dense and slightly bitter on the palate, the mousse should melt the hearts and tastebuds of die-hard chocoholics.

Don't let the little portion of chocolate lava mislead you. Served with fresh berries and cream on the side, the molten choc centre was most befitting for leaving you in a blissful state of mind.

For reservations, call BEATO Publlika, tel: 03-6206-2405. Address: D2-G3-9 Solaris Dutamas, Bangsar tel: 03-2202-2405. Address: 24-1 Jalan Telawi 3 Bangsar Baru, KL. Biz hours: 5pm to 12am; weekend 12pm to 12am