Charcoal, The Saujana
Hotel Kuala Lumpur’s unique grill restaurant with a Malaysian twist sets itself
apart from the traditional Western-style grill rooms by using the age-old
technique of charcoal cooking.
Coupled with local condiments, dips and sauces
to give its chargrilled meats and seafood additional flavour and depth,
Charcoal updates this traditional alchemy and presents it in a contemporary way
for modern diners.
Now
Charcoal’s new Chef De Cuisine Alex Chin aims to fire up the imagination and
palate with his 18 years of
international and local culinary experiences through a new a la carte menu.
While waiting for your
choice of prime grilled meats to be cooked, I’d recommend you scoff down some Freshly
Shucked Oysters (served on ice). From the five varieties available, the
sizeable Pacific Prime Coromandel from New Zealand (RM65 for 3) and meaty Fine De Claire from France (RM65 for 3) are chockful with the clean, salty essence of the sea.
Coming
in a close second are Gallagher from Ireland (RM55 for 3 pcs) and Australia’s Tasmanian Prime (RM65 for 3), putting the Creuses from the Netherlands (RM55 for 3) into the shade. A portion of five different varieties is served at RM80 per flight or eat the shellfish to your heart's content at RM118 per person.
Squirmy about downing the mollusks fresh? Then add
RM10 to the oysters’ selling price for them to be baked with smoked duck bacon,
fresh herb crumbs or aged cheddar cheese. Interestingly, the shellfish remains
succulently sweet and toothsome on the palate despite the rich, assertive cheese
and spinach topping.
They go superbly well with Saujana Hotels &
Resorts Wine Collection (RM31 per glass, RM152 per bottle) especially Frankland
Estate 2014 from Margaret River. A blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and
Riesling, the wine’s crisp, fruity accents form a match made in heaven with the
freshly shucked oysters.
If you eschew the raw stuff, Chef Alex Chin
will gladly rustle up the signature dish of Seared Crab Cakes (RM35). Breaded and fried, the
deliciously dainty patties come accompanied by chive cream, aioli, watercress and
chunky pomelo dressing.
Few diners can resist ordering a dish or two of
Charcoal’s grilled offerings. After all, those are the leading show-stoppers at
the restaurant. The slab of Short Ribs with Charcoal BBQ Sauce (RM80) is
guaranteed to satisfy any meaty cravings. Cut from Mulwarra Black Angus, the
120 day grass-fed and grain-finished beef rib from South-eastern Australia teases
the tastebuds with its subtly charred, full-bodied flavour. A grilled tomato
and peppery watercress pile on the nuance profiles while mini pots of barbecue,
black pepper and mushroom sauces are served on the side.
Asian twists are woven into the chef’s serving of Lobster
Bucatini – an indulgent pasta dish flecked with dried chilli and garlic flakes.
Soaked up with the lobster’s inherent sweetness, the flat, thick noodles taste
irresistibly scrumptious jumbled up with fresh sage, roasted cherry tomatoes
and zucchini ribbons.
Meanwhile, buffet buffs will find notable pickings
such as young jackfruit masak lemak, Goan fish curry, ikan asam pedas and dry
crab curry from the evening spread laid out.
One of the best sweet endings at Charcoal would
be Grilled Mango Pavlova (RM30). Frankly, I’m not cracked up over pavlova but Charcoal’s
comes up trumps. Piped like a mini hive, the crisp but cloud-light meringue is filled with dices of grilled mango and fresh berries. Crowned with a dollop of
cream, the dessert is light yet luscious, just enough for you to leave the
restaurant happy ever after.
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