A MICHELIN-STAR DINING EXPERIENCE AT AU JARDIN

No visit to 1-Michelin starred Au Jardin is incomplete without sampling the Cognac & Jay Aged Duck. We were told by the service team the Butterworth-sourced ducks are aged 6-14 days with hay, cognac and orange, and this main course has to be pre-ordered at least two days prior to your visit (with a supplementary charge of RM75).

Presented with some fanfare in a specially designed case filled with smoked hay at the tableside, the delectable duck came served alongside fig gel, figs rehydrated in balsamic, pomme purée, and yuzu split jus. Once we had a taste of the juicy duck breast, we realise why this speciality remains a popular mainstay.

However, the Wild Caught Barracuda with watermelon radish, konbu, cilantro root emulsion, pandan oil was the unheralded show-stopper. The fish’s inherent sweetness was exquisite and the attendant ingredients’ delicate flavours simply amplified it further. I wouldn’t mind a bigger portion of it though.

Even before the Michelin Guide recognition, chef proprietor Su Kim Hock is already making waves among fine food connoisseurs with his artisanal menu designed to showcase the freshest local and seasonal ingredients; shining the spotlight on the culinary traditions of Penang and Malaysia through beautifully crafted dishes.

The 18-seater Au Jardin is located in a quaint repurposed warehouse within the former Hin Bus Depot in Georgetown. As we stepped into the elegant restaurant’s little courtyard adorned with potted orchids, towering palms and a leafy tree, we found its high ceiling let in plenty of light. After ascending a flight of stairs, we found ourselves in a cosy dining space outfitted with a bar and a trio of origami bird-shaped light fixtures serving as the focal point.

 

Au Jardin’s menu degustation (RM388++ per person) not only adheres to Chef Kim Hock’s ‘buy local first’ philosophy, but also showcases with aplomb his skilful culinary expertise, artistry and inspirations drawn from his own culinary journey and past travels.

Our lunch started with two beguiling amuse bouche: dainty nests of dehydrated glass noodles – deep-fried to crunchy crispness – topped with lumpfish emulsion, orange mascarpone and salmon roe, and little charcoal choux pastry balls filled with bacon and truffle cream and crowned with a sliver of white truffle shaving on top. Suffice to say, these left us in eager anticipation of what to expect.

 

Warm, crusty slices of lacto-fermented bread came next, accompanied by house-made tomato chutney butter and curry leaf oil – a flavoursome pairing inspired by thosai.

 

That paved the way for Hericium Mushroom Remoulade, a lush and creamy monkey head mushroom broth dusted with cep powder. For textural contrast, we savoured a diminutive boat-shaped feuille de brick (light lacy-satiny Tunisian pastry dough) with chopped Hericium mushroom, black garlic espuma and kaffir lime leaves.

 

The quenelle of Century Egg Ice Cream served atop diced Hokkaido scallops and century egg ‘white’ was sublime. Tiny coral horn-shaped gingerbread added a touch of playfulness to the ensemble.

 

For a supplementary charge of RM250, the Grand Caviar Au Jardin lent a touch of extravagance to our lunch. Twisting open the tin lid, we dug into the sturgeon caviar-topped picked lobster with cauliflower crémeux using a mother of pearl spoon. It was an indulgent treat but heck, we only live once.

 

A fleeting burst of tongue-prickling heat from the zingy Sichuan pepper emulsion hit our tastebuds when we sampled the Cured Red Snapper Tartare with salted longan jelly and Nashi pear. The cohesive flavours were delicate yet palate-pleasing.

We also opted for the A3 Wagyu (A5 is the other choice) with Celeriac Purée, Jus Maison and Grain Mustard (supplementary charge of RM280). No surprises here as the steak was on-point   - it was a failsafe albeit unexciting choice.

Our faith was restored by the delicious Mussel Parfait Beignets which dialled up the big, hearty flavour quotient. It was a nice teaser before we segued into enjoying the ephemeral sweetness of the Braised Chinese Cabbage.

 

Topped with lumpfish roe, we found a smoky-sweet steamed mussel tucked inside the rolled cabbage. Savoury-sweet braising liquid dotted with parsley oil completed this splendid dish.

 

We adore the Magnum Sorbet – ice lollies made from blended guava and kaffir lime leaves, sheathed in a shell of red wine-infused coconut oil touched with sour plum powder and popping candy. Delightfully refreshing, kudos to the chef for making such ingenious use of our local fruits.

 

It nearly eclipsed the dessert of Over Ripen William Pear with Madagascan Vanilla Ice Cream. Admittedly, this creative treat was enticing in its own right, thanks to the myriad of airy-light textures and sweet subtleties bestowed by vanilla sponge, sugarless meringue, canalé royale and brulée.

Service was personable and attentive – the team took time to explain each and every dish to us, and capably answered our queries. They also anticipated and swiftly attended to our needs throughout the lunch so we had no room for complaints. 

For reservations, contact Au Jardin, tel: 012-428 9594 or book via TableApp. Address: The Warehouse @ Hin Bus Depot, 125, Jalan Timah, Georgetown, Penang. Business hours: Thursday, Friday, Saturday & Sunday: 1130am – 230pm; 5pm – 10pm.

 

HOMAGE TO ITALIAN COOKING TRADITION AT CURATE

One Michelin starred chef Daniele Repetti (pix above) and his colleague chef Giorgio Gambelli were in Kuala Lumpur from 24 to 29 November, for the 3^rd Italian Cuisine Week organised by the Italian Trade Agency – Kuala Lumpur. Launched by the Italian Ministry of Agriculture and the Ministry of Economic Development, The Extraordinary Italian Taste effort was created to promote authentic Made In Italy food products and brands.

Now into its 3^rd year, the Homage to The Italian Tradition of Genuine Cooking opening showcase was held at Curate, Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur.  In collaboration with the Curate team, Chef Daniele transformed raw, locally sourced materials using the values of Italian cuisine and traditions for the night’s wine and food pairing affair.

Our palate was tickled from the get-go with a plump oyster au naturel adorned with a honeydew ‘pearl’, pine nut, orange zest and microherbs. It was a delightfully refreshing teaser when savoured with the rich, sweet fortified Luretta Malmsey Malvasia Secca wine.

Nutritionist Dr Rolando Bolognino then espoused on the nutrients and goodness of each course throughout the evening, to highlight different good food and fine wine pairings.

Our starter: creamy Parmesan Cheese Terrine, Pickled Vegetables, Puffed Tapioca Chips and Balsamic Vinegar Gel was excellent when paired with the golden tipple. Hints of fresh herbs and ripe melon accents were discernible in the nectar-like wine.

A hearty dish of Tomato-filled Ravioli in Seafood Soup made a splash with us next. Bits of mussels lent depth to the lush savoury soup, making us wish for more. The heartwarming appeal of both the broth and generously filled ravioli was heightened by the zippy, fresh Castel Vento Sauvignon Blanc by Cantine Luretta.

Although the pared-down Saffron Cream Risotto with Beef Broth Sauce, Almonds and Deep-fried Artichokes was a tad underseasoned, the risotto nutty savouriness melded well the noticeably raspberry nuance of the supple Luretta Achab Pinot Noir.

Cooked slowly over low heat to break down the muscular veal cheeks, Chef Daniele shared how braising the cut ensured meltingly tender results. His Braised Veal Cheek with Creamy Potato with Rosemary, Poplar Mushrooms and Black Truffle formed a noteworthy partnership with Castel Vento Cabernet Sauvignon by Cantine Luretta, a tannic red redolent with intense blackcurrant and plum overtones.

Dinner was brought to a close with Bavarian White Chocolate Mousse with Amaretti Biscuit Crumble with Pineapple Sorbet complemented by the easy-to-drink, straw yellow Luretta Le Rane Malvasia Dolce. We love the flirtatious, ripe fruit notes and smooth suppleness of the white wine — just the necessary high to wrap up a convivial evening.

For more information on the Italian Trade Agency, visit https://www.ice.it/en/

A FABBRI-LOUS EXPERIENCE AT VILLA DANIELI

Chef Marcello Fabbri returns to Villa Danieli - pix courtesy of Sheraton Imperial KL

After a successful guest chef stint last year at Villa Danieli last year, the Michelin-starred chef Marcello Fabbri has returned for a whistle-stop sojourn starting today until 23 January at the Sheraton Imperial KL.

Discerning gourmands will find it easier to sample his inimitable culinaria here than back at the chef's own stomping ground so make haste and book a table asap. Us scribes were lucky enough to enjoy a Fabbri-lous dinner last night hosted by Sheraton Imperial KL as its annual media appreciation dinner and the chef was in top form.

A dainty amuse bouche of salmon with creamy rich cheese got the ball rolling, giving us a tantalising hint of what laid in store. 

The fresh, crisp nuances of Frescobaldi Pomino Bianco DOC heralded the debut of Marcello Fabbri Vitello Tonnato - the chef's newly interpretation of Tuna & Veal. Sprinkled with micro greens and sprigs of dill, it was an artistic palette of ethereally delicate textures and ever so subtle flavours with punctuations of aged balsamic and briny kalamata olives.

A floral-fruity white, Attems Pinot Grigio Venezia Giulia IGT lent vivacious sparkle to a superb Zuppa Di Zucca - velveteen Pumpkin Soup served with Roasted Pumpkin Seeds-crusted Scallops. My dining partner who eschewed anything pumpkin lapped up every drop; a firm testament of the heartwarming soup's soulful appeal which bore the barest whispers of spice. Sweet and moist, the plump scallops were to-die-for.

For me, the evening's show-stopping creation was Risotto Ai Porcini. Now, risotto is Chef Marcello Fabbri's signature speciality hence it was only natural his Risotto of Porcini Mushrooms blew us away. Like a clever magician, he ramped up the rich nutty creaminess of the Italian shortgrain rice with a quenelle of Parmesan Ice Cream. As the luxuriant cheesy topping melted down, every spoonful teased our tastebuds with riffs of hot and cold. Such deliciousness was aptly matched by a voluptuous red, Speri Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore DOC.

The stakes rose higher with Manzo Australiano beefing up the Piatti Principale. Calling on Lamole Di Lamole Blue Label Chianti Classico DOCG - a ruby-red wine with dark cherry and berry notes, the medium rare Australian Black Angus striploin was a gastronomic masterpiece. Served with generous shavings of musky Black Truffle, Potato Confit and Asparagus, one could catch the dish's enticing aroma even before the steak arrived to our table.

Intense ripe red fruits and spice overtones from the Warre Warrior Finest Reserve Port Wine made a winsome pairing with Torta Di Mele Granny Smith - a rustic yet refreshingly light dessert of Granny Smith Apple Tart with Granny Smith Soup and Sorbet. I was partial to the pleasing sorbet with its clear apple accent while the minimalist apple tart of sorts ensured dinner concluded on a satisfactory high but not cloying note.

The Marcello Fabbri's Italian experience is priced at RM220 nett per head (food only) and RM380 (inclusive of matching wine) per head. Call Villa Danieli, tel: 03-2717 9922 for reservations.