Allow spice master and culinary maestro
Yogesh Upadhyay a.k.a. Chef Yogi take you on a whirlwind tour of India, culturally
and gastronomically at Flour. Throw whatever you presumably know
about Indian food and let Chef Yogi change your perspective of Indian cuisine. The
chef-restaurateur is redefining the food of his native land for the future in his
own intrepid way, where “each and every course at Flour is a planned journey of
the food feeding the body; the intention feeding the soul.”
His mind-changing, progressive French-Indian
offerings are so future-forward, only adventurous and liberal diners will find
his specialities acceptable.
According to Chef Yogi, “the Indian
continent consists of different regions and each has its own unique flavours
and ingredients. Likewise, each course in Flour’s menu is my interpretation on
how Indian food has evolved whilst remaining faithful to its roots.
“Indian specialities are characterised
by the use of spices, not chilli. You’d discover fresh narratives on the
judicious and diverse use of spices here, learn about the origins of regional
dishes and delve into vegetarianism which is inherent to India’s foodscape. I’m
serving a taste of culture, not just food at Flour.”
Housed in a charming, white-washed bungalow
in the heart of KL since 2020, Flour was initially located at Damansara Heights
some seven years ago. The sleek and contemporary interior is almost
monochromatic in its colour scheme, with some eye-catching artworks and a water
fountain serving as key focal points. According to the Rajasthan-born chef, “The
restaurant name was inspired by flour, an essential ingredient for the making
of bread. Without flour, there’d be no Indian food.”
Although Chef Yogi was roped into his
father’s restaurant business in his teens, the rebel in him opted to pursue
hotel management and French culinary arts. Determined to make his own mark, he relocated
to Dubai and ventured into the aviation industry.
In 2014 Yogi came to Malaysia, to work
for Air Asia X. He met and married his wife who then encouraged him to open
Flour. “She said my culinary efforts changed her perception of Indian food and
I should showcase my skills to a broader audience.”
Chef Yogi said “Flour brings the future
of Indian cuisine to the present, based on my knowledge and research on the
past, using modern French techniques and thoughtfully composed
degustation-style menus.”
The chef will personally share
interesting facts on the historical aspects and origins of the food served,
with every element down to the smallest details meticulously planned. “I’m the guide
on the culinary journey; to help diners gain greater understanding of Indian
cuisine. Dining here is more than just an experience; it’s a taste of culture.”
From the a la carte menu, the stellar
opening of smoky Quail Tikka (RM35++) left us spellbound. Spiced curd-marinated
quails were tandoor-roasted to perfection, rendering the quail tender and juicy
down to the bone. A side dip of housemade curd dotted with tamarind lent a
lush, appetising dimension.
“Quail and game birds are native to
India; in the old days, people used to forage for them as the native protein
source” said Chef Yogi. “The secret lies in mustard seed oil, to give the quail
deep-seated flavour and incomparable aroma.”
Unsurprisingly, his adroit skills shone
through in the Vegetable Charcoal Roast (RM38++). Banking on a useful tip
gleaned from the Persians, he infused rose water into the saucy base of housemade
curd and bird’s eye chilli oil, letting it bring the inherent
vegetal-fruitiness of the roasted baby eggplants, capsicum, and cherry tomatoes
to full bloom onto our palate.
Italian Marzano tomatoes formed the
backbone to Flour’s legendary Butter Chicken, listed as Spring Chicken &
Tomato (RM68++) in the menu. Lightly spiced with green cardamom powder and
fenugreek leaves, Chef Yogi had cooked those tomatoes to such velvety
consistency, it seemed like he had unleashed a burst of brilliant sunshine onto
our tastebuds, through the vermillion sauce.
Dousing that sumptuous sauce onto Jeera
Rice (RM18++) then savouring the cumin-speckled rice, as we picked the bones
clean off those deliciously tender chunks of spring chicken tikka, was heavenly.How could we not lick the plate clean when
the stellar dish of Konju Moilee appeared. Every exquisite bite of the charcoal-grilled
prawns in mustard seed-accented coconut milk sauce and bird’s eye chilli oil knocked
our socks off.
Also jostling for our attention and
tummy space was Ajwaini Baingan (RM55++), cute roasted baby eggplants in a robust
sauce of onion, tomato with ajwain and thyme.
We couldn’t help but soak up that
bright, tantalising sauce with freshly made Laccha (RM15++), thin, multi-layered
wholewheat bread which the chef referred to as the croissant of India.
For textural contrast, we returned to sample
those irresistible dishes again with pieces of feather-light Puri (RM15++),
fried wholewheat bread with semolina, with equally agreeable results. Served with basil curd, crisp-fried
shallot graced the bowl of Mutton Biryani (RM90++); a show-stopping speciality
that could have easily left us replete on its own. Cubes of meltingly tender mutton embedded within the saffron-scented
basmati rice, proved second-to-none in the taste department.
Wrapping up our lavish cultural passage
to India came Kubhanika Meetha (RM35++), a dainty white apricot tart which the
chef told us to eat in one bite. Its ephemeral sweetness was a most befitting
masterstroke to conclude our insightful discovery of Indian culture through Flour’s refined repertoire.
For reservations at FLOUR, tel: 03-4065
7400, 012-9600 053. Address: No.12 & 14, Jalan Kamuning, Off Jalan Imbi, Kuala
Lumpur.
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