A REFINED TASTE OF CULTURE AT FLOUR

 

Allow spice master and culinary maestro Yogesh Upadhyay a.k.a. Chef Yogi take you on a whirlwind tour of India, culturally and gastronomically at Flour.

Throw whatever you presumably know about Indian food and let Chef Yogi change your perspective of Indian cuisine. The chef-restaurateur is redefining the food of his native land for the future in his own intrepid way, where “each and every course at Flour is a planned journey of the food feeding the body; the intention feeding the soul.”

His mind-changing, progressive French-Indian offerings are so future-forward, only adventurous and liberal diners will find his specialities acceptable.

According to Chef Yogi, “the Indian continent consists of different regions and each has its own unique flavours and ingredients. Likewise, each course in Flour’s menu is my interpretation on how Indian food has evolved whilst remaining faithful to its roots.

 

“Indian specialities are characterised by the use of spices, not chilli. You’d discover fresh narratives on the judicious and diverse use of spices here, learn about the origins of regional dishes and delve into vegetarianism which is inherent to India’s foodscape. I’m serving a taste of culture, not just food at Flour.”

Housed in a charming, white-washed bungalow in the heart of KL since 2020, Flour was initially located at Damansara Heights some seven years ago. The sleek and contemporary interior is almost monochromatic in its colour scheme, with some eye-catching artworks and a water fountain serving as key focal points.

According to the Rajasthan-born chef, “The restaurant name was inspired by flour, an essential ingredient for the making of bread. Without flour, there’d be no Indian food.”

Although Chef Yogi was roped into his father’s restaurant business in his teens, the rebel in him opted to pursue hotel management and French culinary arts. Determined to make his own mark, he relocated to Dubai and ventured into the aviation industry.

In 2014 Yogi came to Malaysia, to work for Air Asia X. He met and married his wife who then encouraged him to open Flour. “She said my culinary efforts changed her perception of Indian food and I should showcase my skills to a broader audience.”

Chef Yogi said “Flour brings the future of Indian cuisine to the present, based on my knowledge and research on the past, using modern French techniques and thoughtfully composed degustation-style menus.”

The chef will personally share interesting facts on the historical aspects and origins of the food served, with every element down to the smallest details meticulously planned. “I’m the guide on the culinary journey; to help diners gain greater understanding of Indian cuisine. Dining here is more than just an experience; it’s a taste of culture.”

From the a la carte menu, the stellar opening of smoky Quail Tikka (RM35++) left us spellbound. Spiced curd-marinated quails were tandoor-roasted to perfection, rendering the quail tender and juicy down to the bone. A side dip of housemade curd dotted with tamarind lent a lush, appetising dimension.

“Quail and game birds are native to India; in the old days, people used to forage for them as the native protein source” said Chef Yogi. “The secret lies in mustard seed oil, to give the quail deep-seated flavour and incomparable aroma.”

Unsurprisingly, his adroit skills shone through in the Vegetable Charcoal Roast (RM38++). Banking on a useful tip gleaned from the Persians, he infused rose water into the saucy base of housemade curd and bird’s eye chilli oil, letting it bring the inherent vegetal-fruitiness of the roasted baby eggplants, capsicum, and cherry tomatoes to full bloom onto our palate.

Italian Marzano tomatoes formed the backbone to Flour’s legendary Butter Chicken, listed as Spring Chicken & Tomato (RM68++) in the menu. Lightly spiced with green cardamom powder and fenugreek leaves, Chef Yogi had cooked those tomatoes to such velvety consistency, it seemed like he had unleashed a burst of brilliant sunshine onto our tastebuds, through the vermillion sauce.

Dousing that sumptuous sauce onto Jeera Rice (RM18++) then savouring the cumin-speckled rice, as we picked the bones clean off those deliciously tender chunks of spring chicken tikka, was heavenly.

How could we not lick the plate clean when the stellar dish of Konju Moilee appeared. Every exquisite bite of the charcoal-grilled prawns in mustard seed-accented coconut milk sauce and bird’s eye chilli oil knocked our socks off.

Also jostling for our attention and tummy space was Ajwaini Baingan (RM55++), cute roasted baby eggplants in a robust sauce of onion, tomato with ajwain and thyme.

 

We couldn’t help but soak up that bright, tantalising sauce with freshly made Laccha (RM15++), thin, multi-layered wholewheat bread which the chef referred to as the croissant of India.

For textural contrast, we returned to sample those irresistible dishes again with pieces of feather-light Puri (RM15++), fried wholewheat bread with semolina, with equally agreeable results.

Served with basil curd, crisp-fried shallot graced the bowl of Mutton Biryani (RM90++); a show-stopping speciality that could have easily left us replete on its own. Cubes of meltingly tender mutton embedded within the saffron-scented basmati rice, proved second-to-none in the taste department.

Wrapping up our lavish cultural passage to India came Kubhanika Meetha (RM35++), a dainty white apricot tart which the chef told us to eat in one bite. Its ephemeral sweetness was a most befitting masterstroke to conclude our insightful discovery of Indian culture through Flour’s refined repertoire.

For reservations at FLOUR, tel: 03-4065 7400, 012-9600 053. Address: No.12 & 14, Jalan Kamuning, Off Jalan Imbi, Kuala Lumpur.

 

EAT LIKE A VEGETARIAN AT ELEGANT INN HK CUISINE

In conjunction with the Nine Emperor Gods’ Festival, Elegant Inn HK Cuisine (E.I.) will proffer vegetarian cuisine for those who observe a vegetarian diet for the nine-day festival. Restaurateur Jeannette Han and her team have painstakingly created a Unique Vegetarian Set (RM138++ per person, minimum of 2 diners per table) and some a la carte dishes; available from 15 to 23 October.

Having sampled E.I.’s plethora of delicious offerings, I’d happily go vegetarian any day. Nice presentation and great taste are de rigueur here, starting with the platter of appetising Chilled Fresh Chinese Yam Konjac ‘Cherry’ with a centre of sour plum- marinated cherry tomato, a dainty Radish Flaky Puff and E.I. Crispy Vegetarian Rice Roll.

Every item drew our effusive praises as we savoured the chef’s delicate culinary handiwork. FYI, the konjac cherry and airy-light taro-radish puff can be ordered a la carte at RM23.80 per person (min 2 person per order), whilst the silky-smooth E.I. Crispy Vegetarian Rice Roll is RM6.80/pc (min 4 pcs per order).

Sweet and crisp wawasai blossom (miniature napa cabbage) took centrestage in the soup course of E.I. Double Boiled Soup of Murrill Mushroom (a la carte RM29.80 per person). Those earthy mushrooms lent flavourful depth to the salubrious broth, with organic soy beans providing delicate textural interest.

The inventive Fiery Cordyceps Flower Organic Beancurd with Lightly Spicy Cucumber Pickles (RM26.80 per person, min 2 person per order) was memorable for its soft and slightly crumbly texture. We love the discernible zing on our tastebuds as the tofu-cordycep flower mixture was spiked with a little chilli oil.

Presented in a square, chequered board pattern, the visually pleasing Braised Taro, Winter Melon and Hand-made Plant Based Patty with Hong Kong Liu Ma Kee Fermented Beancurd Sauce (RM23.80 per person, min 2 person per order) was a wonder to behold and savour. The masterstroke was the reddish discs of plant-based patty, made from quinoa, chickpeas, red yeast rice and beetroot. They formed an irresistible combination with the powdery soft taro and winter melon cubes, slickly covered by some glossy savoury sauce. 

Just when we thought nothing could outshine that, we encountered the show-stealing Truffle Oil Teriyaki Eggplant Steak with Organic Cabbage Rice (RM23.80 per person, min 2 person per order). Meltingly tender eggplant brushed with housemade teriyaki sauce and scented with truffle oil, the sumptuous ‘steak’ left us spellbound with its uncanny similarity to unagi kabayaki.

Housemade Cashew Nut Cream with Australian Pumpkin (RM19.80 per person) and Golden Banana Osmanthus Water Chestnut Cake (RM4.80/pc, min 4 pcs per order) brought our exquisite vegetarian meal to a sweet finale. The specialities’ ethereal sweetness and delicate textures left us on a heavenly high.

For reservations at Elegant Inn HK Cuisine, call tel: 03-2070 9399. Address: 2.01, 2nd Floor, Podium Block, Menara Hap Seng, Jalan P. Ramlee, Kuala Lumpur.

 

BOWLED OVER BY SIXTEEN

In years past, Les Deux Garcon was a reliable outpost for flaky croissants and freshly baked scones as well as hearty breakfast fare. Now the café is simply known as Sixteen – a trendier name in keeping with changing times but fret not, familiar staples such as Almond Croissant (RM12) and Raisin Roll (RM10) remain just as good.

The refreshed interior includes a little green nook next to the entrance: assorted potted plants clustered together with some hung overhead beside the glass picture window. Outside the walkway are more oversize pots of foliage, evoking a sense of tranquility.

Instead of run-of-the-mill ‘big breakfast’ fare of sausages, eggs and beans, we feasted on Golden Harvest (RM23) comprising two slabs of delicious sweetcorn fritters. 

Adorned with a rosette of smoked salmon and a wobbly poached egg alongside pineapple salsa and chilli oil, this new offering was akin to bursts of heartwarming sunshine albeit on the palate.

Striving to please office workers and residents from the nearby suburb, Sixteen has various poke bowl-inspired creations for lunch. Red and basmathi rice amp up the healthy, wholesomeness factor in place of white rice.

 

The Taste of Delhi (RM35) creation took us on a culinary passage to India, featuring tender cubes of lamb in an aromatic and mildly rich curry with fluffy, pea-studded pilau basmathi. Cucumber mint raita, boiled egg, diced fried tofu and crunchy papadum added textural appeal to the stellar serving.

Daun kesum (polygonum minus) was the key herb flavouring Sixteen’s special house recipe of Ayam Kesum Chilli (RM25). The bowl of Spanish rice complemented by the fragrant chicken curry was scrumptious. Tempeh, hardboiled egg, pineapple salsa, fried tofu and ulam (blanched long beans and raw local herbs) provided further enhancement in terms of textures and flavours.

 

A cohesive combo of red rice with diced seared tuna, avocado, edamame, and cucumber formed the Japanese-influenced Nippon (RM36). More alluring nuances were discernible with the inclusion of wakame, pickled ginger, spicy mayo, furikake and mildly sweetish gyoza sauce (concocted using soya sauce, lemon juice, honey and chopped spring onion).

 

Fruity-sweet pomegranate seeds and the judicious use of honey soya sesame dressing made the Buddha Bowl (RM23) comprising red rice, fried tofu, tempeh, wakame, edamame, black beans, lettuce and mushroom into a winsome vegetarian-friendly meal.

Baked fresh on premise, the splendid Scone - served with house made Strawberry Jam and Cream (RM7), and buttery Marble or Orange Cake (RM6 per slice) are compelling dessert choices, ideal as a self-pampering treat or for wrapping up your visit to Sixteen on a subtly sweet note.

For reservations and more information call SIXTEEN, tel: 03 7980 0200. Address: 16, Jalan 2/109E, Desa Business Park, Taman Desa, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: 8am to 930pm daily