Monday, October 30, 2006

Good Eating Experiences

It's good to be back after a short hiatus. Nope it has got nothing with the fasting month nor the recent spate of festive holidays. Just got too caught up with work and the inevitable stress of fulfilling deadlines.

Been revisiting some food haunts which were reviewed in the past. Glad to know some outlets are still maintaining the standards whilst sadly, one or two didn't quite cut it and has even folded. These are the ones which can be relied upon for a good dining experience:

Delicious by Ms Read

Now stronger than ever with a revamped menu. Old favourites remained but newer additions are most welcomed. Especially in the dessert section. Berrilicious Chocolate Pavlova, Apple Lumberjack and Mango & Lychee Triffle in a Glass are serious contenders to win over the sweet-toothed besides the outlet's signature buttery scones and 'blackforest in a glass' offerings.

Seek out Delicious by Ms Read at Bangsar Village and the new wing of One Utama.

Precious Old China

After a rather disappointing experience when I took an Oz-based dear friend/fellow foodie there, our most recent visit over the weekend proved the chef has lost none of his magic. Save for the overly salty 'tau kan' (vegetarian bean puffs?) in the beancurd dish, our order of Cincalok Chicken, Ju Hu Char, Pie Tee, Pucuk Paku Masak Lemak and Asam Fish were spot on. Special mention goes to the Ju Hu Char - can't recall the last time my parents raved over this popular Nyonya-Hokkien dish but yesterday, they did just that!

The Mee Siam was so-so ; love the sauce but disliked the clumpy meehoon. Nevertheless, the Bubur Cha Cha was top notch. No wonder this girlfriend of mine goes ever so often for lunch with her colleagues!

Dine in its ornate ambience filled with Chinese/Nyonya antiques and collectibles at the Central Market, a stone throw away from KL's Chinatown.

Hoong Kee Seafood Steamboat

Taman Maluri folks never had it this good. Every nook and corner of this bustling commercial centre (close to the ever-popular Jusco supermart) is either a coffee shop or an eatery of some sort. Reasonably priced and varied offerings attract hordes of hungry office workers by day and urban families at night.

Come here for the great seafood noodles in the morning and for lunch. The fish ball noodles are priced at RM3.50 but the seafood version at RM4.00 is much better. One gets 3 prawns, several razor clams, bouncy fish balls and sliced fish cake with bits of dried seaweed in the soupy noodles. 'Kon loh' or dry-tossed version also available. If you feel like indulging, pomfret and other pricier seafood from Pulau Ketam can be added upon request.

Dinner is strictly steamboat at RM13.50 per person. The platter of ingredients include fish paste noodles, two types of fish balls, meat balls, fried beancurd sheets or 'fu chok', white beancurd triangles, sliced fish, golden straw mushrooms, 'sui kow' or stuffed dumplings, prawns, vegetables, crispy yee mee, meehoon and eggs. Diners have a choice of having both clear soup and tom yam in one pot or stick to either broth of choice. While the freshness of the ingredients are unquestionable ... some of us felt a tad thirsty after the meal which could indicate the soup might have been flavoured with MSG. Still, the place seems to be doing roaring business so perhaps it's a case of eaters' beware?

Wednesday, September 20, 2006

MODERN JAPAN RISING







Today, Japanese restaurants with classical décor like those depicted in the Memoirs of a Geisha blockbuster no longer reign supreme. Instead, most prefer the minimalist Zen approach, with sleek glass, dark wood and steel interiors, clean-line soft furnishings, open-concept show kitchen and piped-in jazz music. Service staff is garbed not in elaborate kimonos but informal happi coats (short Japanese robe with straight sleeves) or monochromatic ensembles of white shirt and black pants.

Mizu, a Japanese fine-dining eatery at the Bangsar Village, is the embodiment of this revolutionary, modern approach. Its intimidating granite and cascading water façade at the entrace gives little away of its goings-on inside. Walk through its narrow, raised passageway and you’d find yourself in an elongated L-shaped dining area interspersed with secluded corners. Noren or Japanese doorway curtains and some framed artworks underscore the outlet’s understated décor whilst its elongated sushi counter sits adjacent to an open-concept kitchen. Other features include a wine cellar, a private dining room and an outdoor patio that overlooks part of Bangsar’s busy thoroughfares.

Executive chef Aspazali Amran, one of the few Malay chefs skilled in the art of Japanese cuisine, helms the kitchen team here. Having previously worked for the old Nadaman restaurant at the Shangri-la KL, Chef Aspazali shows that his 20-year experience and training stints in Japan has evolved to complement Mizu’s contemporary attitude. His innovative specialties infused with French/Continental elements, has already won him the stamp of approval from discerning corporate types and local dignitaries who frequent Mizu. Amongst them are several company bosses of Japanese corporations who hosted the Toyota F1 crew to dinner last year.

Chef Aspazali’s amuse bouche of Deep-fried Maki Roll got the evening off to a rousing start. A house specialty here, it comprises sushi rice roll with minced salmon, red tuna, tobiko (flying fish roe) and mayonnaise, coated and deep-fried in crisp tempura batter. A full portion of 8 pieces costs RM15++.

Many of his signature dishes are highly inspired by Tokyo’s cosmopolitan outlook. The dish of Foie Gras with Daikon (RM30++) proves how a simple, rustic dish of simmered Japanese radish can be transformed into an epicurean delight with the inclusion of pan-fried foie gras. The latter’s rich, velvety texture merged so seamlessly with the radish’s delicate sweetness that diners are unlikely to forget this sublime dish in a hurry. We bet the Foie Gras Chawan Mushi or steamed egg custard with foie gras (RM25++) is equally outstanding.

The Sashimi Platter (RM130++) is a sight to behold with succulent cuts of red and white tuna, salmon, amaebi (sweet shrimp) and yellow tail artistically presented on a tall mound of shaved ice. Flown in twice weekly, the fish’s quality and freshness is assuredly comparable to other fine Japanese eateries.

For those who are averse to raw delicacies, the Mizu Maki (RM35++ for 6 pcs) is worth sampling. The reverse sushi roll, in which the nori or seaweed sheet is rolled inwards with the rice on outside, comes filled with sliced avocado, grilled unagi (eel), tempura prawn, lettuce and tobiko.

Chef Aspazali forays into fusion again with his Grilled Maguro Steak (RM35++) that looks remarkably like a luscious steak. Lightly basted with a concoction of teriyaki and garlic sauce, the tuna belly is melt-in-the-mouth tender.

The creative Kedahan whose boyish looks can rival that of celebrity chef Jamie Oliver’s, certainly has no qualms about experimenting with new ingredients and techniques.

“My modern approach towards Japanese dishes will appeal to the young and adventurous diners who patronize Mizu,” said Chef Aspazali. “To stand out from competitors, I advise my team to maximize on our culinary creativity while retaining the core essence of Japanese cuisine. Thus, new tempting dishes can be regularly introduced to entice customers and generate word-of-mouth recommendations to family and friends.”

Although more Continental than Japanese, the Baked Jumbo Oyster with Cheese (RM15++ each) is certain to have you raving about it to all and sundry. Baked in its shell with grated cheese, the huge mollusk which is the size of a large sauce plate, tasted sinfully rich and indulgent. Thankfully, its accompanying dressing of light soy sauce and minced garlic prevented this speciality from being overly cloying.

More edgy temptations can be found in the a la carte menu such as Marinated Fresh Salmon with Yam (RM25++), Pizza with Salted Cuttlefish (RM25++) and Spicy Seafood Mini Hot Pot with Kim Chi (RM25++).

Desserts are a little more sedate with the Macha (green tea) or Black Sesame Ice-cream and freshly sliced fruits.

Mizu also has a good selection of wine and saké for those who enjoy their favourite tipple to complement the culinary delights here. If the outlet doesn’t carry the desired vintage, they will try their best to procure it to ensure your next dining experience will be truly complete.

MIZU JAPANESE FINE-DINING (pork-free)
Lot F6 First Floor
Bangsar Village
No1 Jalan Telawi Satu
Bansar Baru
59100 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 2283 6988

Friday, September 15, 2006

PRIME MAKES THE CUT

^ Trio of flavoured butter to spread on
crusty seven grain and poppy seed breads

^ Fresh oysters to seduce the senses
^ Angel hair pasta with saffron sauce & seafood
^ Scrumptious lobster tail terrine
^ Prime rib carved at your tableside
^ 80 day grain fed Australian filet mignon with side dishes
^ Sink your teeth into this tender ribeye with morel cream sauce
^ Berries with cream for a tantalising finish

For me, steaks are synonymous with cowboys, Country & Western flicks and the funny antics of Desperate Dan, a steak-loving cartoon character in the UK Dandy comics of my childhood. I also cut my teeth learning to eat sizzling steaks at an established ship-themed steak house in Kuala Lumpur. However, the steak and Wild, Wild West association distintegrate after a visit to Le Méridien Kuala Lumpur’s spanking new outlet, Prime.

Touted as Kuala Lumpur’s first international steak restaurant, Prime is set to take the proverbial bull by the horns, serving up the finest cuts of imported beef within its sleek, contemporary confines.

Extensive timber inlay and impressive custom-built floor-to-ceiling wine displays are matched by high backed two-tone leather chairs and oversized tables that accord extra space and elbow room.

If you wish to see and be seen, opt for the main open seating area. Otherwise, be discreetly cloistered in cosy booth seats and secluded nooks for better privacy. The 10-seater private dining room looks like a presidential conference room that offers an up close and personal vista of the culinary masters at work. While show kitchens are now almost de rigueur for new restaurants, Prime goes one up with its novel Sommelier’s Table. Naturally wine samplings are the main focus here and the resident wine manager will be more than happy to help select suitable wines to complement their meal.

Prime’s steak cuts vary between the basic 220g (8 oz) and the staggering 900g (32 oz or two pounds!) portions, covering a prized range that includes Black Angus 200 day aged and Australian 120 and 80 day aged steaks, grilled on lava stone or imported charcoal. For connoisseurs, there is the Australian certified Kobe-style Wagyu beef with a marble score of six and above. This score is considered the best as the meat has a good balance of dense fat and lean marbling.

The different ‘aged’ steaks actually denote the total number of days the cattle is fed with high grade grains (usually corn), which determines how tender and well-marbled the beef is going to be. Good things don’t come cheap and neither does Wagyu (pronounced wah-g'you, it means Japanese cattle) beef, even though the ones served at Prime comes from Wagyu cattle raised in Australia and not Kobe, Japan. Raised under stringent, exacting conditions, the cattle are placed under a carefully controlled diet and given daily massages to procure supremely tender and densely marbled beef cuts. Is it any surprise a 340g (12 oz) Wagyu sirloin costs RM300 a pop?

My serving of 80 day centre cut 220g Filet Mignon (RM60++) with Caramelized Balsamic-Shallot Jus with Deep-fried Potato Balls with Foie Gras Heart (RM15++) certainly deserves top billing for its amazingly juicy tenderness. Despite its deceptively dainty portion, the expertly prepared steak proved substantial enough. The subtly sweet and tangy sauce brought out the beef’s sumptuous full-bodied flavour whilst the potato balls teased the palate with its mixture of crisp and velvety smooth textures.

Our lunch had earlier started with oven-fresh poppy seed and seven-grain breads served with three types of flavoured butter – unsalted, smoked salmon and mushroom. Our group also shared half dozen of fresh Fines de Claire Oysters (RM60++), Australian Crab Cakes (RM45++), Fresh Angel Hair Pasta with Crustacean Saffron Sauce (RM45++) and Caesar Salad (RM35++).

Served imaginatively on a two-tier glass platter, the oysters were exceptional for their delicate sea-brininess but if you wish, the six accompanying dressings – wasabi mayo, Thai chilli, sour cream, lemon ginger, Tabasco and lemon wedges would certainly add an interesting dimension to them.

The Australian Crab Cakes served with chilli flakes, garlic sauce and mango salsa is an easy way to enjoy tasty crab meat minus the hard work. Forgo pasta as appetizer unless you have an insatiable appetite – the delicious Angel Hair is huge enough to qualify as a main course on its own. The classic Caesar Salad is a better option, prepared and served with a flourish at your tableside.

Special mention must be given to the slow-roasted 80 days grain-fed Australian Prime Rib (300g RM80++, 450g RM110++) which left an indelible impression with its unbelievable melt-in-the-mouth tenderness. Noteworthy accompaniments for this are corn sweet mashed potato, jumbo white and green asparagus, Béarnaise and cracked peppercorn sauce.

My partner’s 120 days 220g Ribeye Steak (RM55++) cooked to medium rare with red warm centre was moist and succulent. Complemented by Morel Cream Sauce and Truffle Mashed Potato (RM15++), it was a match made in heaven.

Prime’s menu is further beefed up with seafood, chicken, lamb and venison. If you want your beef and seafood too, the ubiquitous Surf and Turf (RM120++) would be the ideal solution.

Since we had no room left for decadent desserts such as Gelato, Sticky Date Pudding, Tiramisu and Mango and Coconut Baked Cheesecake, a platter of fresh, imported berries with luxuriously smooth whipped cream brought our meal to a refreshing conclusion.

Prime is definitely worth visiting if you are true-blue steak lover and have no qualms about paying top dollar for great steaks. No bulls about it.

PRIME (pork free)
Level 5 Le Méridien Kuala Lumpur
2 Jalan Stesen Sentral
Kuala Lumpur
Reservations 2263 7555

Monday, August 14, 2006

A MOVEABLE FEAST AT ONE BANGSAR

So many outlets, so little time...

While food reviews keep me constantly satiated and on-the-go, there are some outlets that merit repeat visits. Stan's Assam & Garam at One Bangsar is one of them, thanks in no small measure to Stephanie Saw. Her inherent passion at churning out excellent Malay dishes, albeit with slight twists has caught the imagination of many discerning foodies and their support have probably keep her going.

Nevertheless, these are challenging times for those in the food business. With everyone feeling the pinch, it is good to know all the owners whose outlets form the One Bangsar food haven have collectively came up with a unique promotion that is akin to a mini gourmet safari. At the unbelievable deal of RM28 nett per person, diners can meander along the whole row of fine restaurants in One Bangsar and eat to their hearts' content each Saturday in August.

It's a clever concept that quickly caught local food lovers' imagination. Despite the afternoon heat, more than 150 diners gamely showed up to savour the spread laid out by the ten outlets. We had a great time wandering around and sampling the eclectic mix of Vietnamese, Mediterranean, Italian, Indian, Malay, French, Japanese, Chinese and Thai specialities with refreshing drinks thrown in. While it is a good way of creating much awareness amongst new customers who have yet to discover One Bangsar, remember that it is not totally fair to judge each outlet based on the limited menu they serve up on these occasions. It merely acts as a sneak preview of each outlet's promising, delicious secrets that hopefully will induce return visits.

Of course, hiccups are not unusual for outdoor events of this kind. Firstly, there are too few seats compared to the large number of people - it would have been better if the organisers dispense with formal table seating entirely and just provide adequate seats instead by using portable stools. And for the price of RM28 nett, there are bound to attract quite a few ugly Malaysians who are all out to get their money's worth. That's right, these people never even blink an eye by grabbing and piling up all the food on their own plates the minute it's dished out. Never mind if they can't put it all away and others have yet to get a tiny helping.

Outlet managers and owners too must be conscientious enough to speed up their food replenishment and ensure the interest of paying customers are well looked after, especially when the food is in the process of being prepared or had finished. It's unthinkable of asking diners to return again and again or plead with them to move on to other outlets first. For one, we did move to other outlets and after returning twice just to be disappointed with a rather curt brush-off, we just gave up and walked off. What are the chances of that outlet getting our patronage in the near future? Well, don't hold your breath for this.

Undoubtedly the idea of this moveable feast is filled with superb potential so it'd be a shame if more shortcomings overwhelm the benefits. But each event is a learning experience and I do hope the One Bangsar team will gain invaluable experience and lessons from it.

TASTY CHEAP EATS


Longing for Lontong? Here's your solution!

Ice it! Fabulous Ais Batu Campur or ABC

Let’s face it – with the cost of city living keeps creeping up, ardent foodies are forced to dig deep into their pockets and find ways of stretching their hard-earned ringgit.

Fortunately in Malaysia one does not have to look too hard or too far to eat well at budget prices. Street side hawker stalls and informal no-frills eateries abound so local food lovers can still afford to feast like a king on pauper’s prices.

Here’s some of my favourite haunts for simple, cheap and tasty eats.

OODLES OF CHINESE NOODLES
Lau Ti Fang (Old Rendezvous) Parn Mein Stall
(non-halal)
Jalan Beremi, Kuala Lumpur
Mon-Sat, 7.30 am – 2.30 pm

This little nondescript stall used to be at the sidewalk across from Fortuna Hotel but has since relocated into a narrow shoplot just across from DBKL’s Little Ain Arabia. The stall still reigns supreme in my book as the gold standard for parn mein, flat flour noodles which I reckon is Chinese-style pasta. Here diners have a choice of the chewy noodles in thin, stringy texture like wantan mee or the flat fettucine type. You can opt to have it served in a delicious ikan bilis (dried anchovies)-based broth with sayur manis and a splendid topping of crispy fried ikan bilis, minced pork, sliced black mushrooms and wood ear fungus. Better still, try the kon lou version where the noodles are tossed in thick, black caramelized sauce. Don’t miss the stall’s ‘killer’ sambal belacan dip. Bouncy fish or meat balls can be added at extra charge. Prices from RM4.50 onwards per plate.

LONTONG LONGINGS
Kak Normah @ N Nasi Lemak (halal)
Dewan Serbaguna Penjaja, Jalan Wirawati Kuala Lumpur
Daily from 7.00 am – 12.00 noon

You won’t get enough of this incredibly tasty dish. The ensemble comprises diced nasi impit (pressed glutinous rice) in a piquant turmeric and coconut gravy filled with long beans, shredded radish, tempe (fermented pressed beancurd cake), strips of fu chook (beancurd sheets), hard-boiled egg wedges, beancurd, sliced cabbage and glass vermicelli. Spicy fish serunding, chunky peanut gravy and a dollop of sweetish sambal add the finishing touches to this superb dish. Other irresistible specialities served here include soto ayam and nasi lemak. Both the lontong and soto cost RM2.50 per plate while nasi lemak biasa costs RM1.00. Side dishes of fried chicken, beef rendang and sotong sambal available at extra charge.

NICE ICE
Ah Keong’s ABC Stall
Jalan Padang Belia
Brickfields Kuala Lumpur
Daily 10 am - 7 pm

You can’t miss this little stall in front of the 7-11 store, just one lane behind the YMCA building. Run by a husband and wife team, they are kept busy quenching their multi-racial customers’ thirst for fresh coconut water, cendol, cincau but nothing beats their fantastic ABC or ais batu campur. Regulars nickname their Special ABC (RM2.50 per bowl) the poor man’s artificial shark’s fin – thanks to the succulent strips of young coconut flesh that adorn their colourful and sweet icy concoction. The heap of finely shaved ice, drenched with rose syrup, fragrant gula Melaka syrup and evaporated milk consists of plump Green Giant corn kernels, home-made red bean mash, giant kidney beans, diced black grass jelly or cincau. Perfect for hot sweltering afternoons!

ALL MIXED UP
Mobile Rojak Van in front of Petronas station
Taman Cempaka Ampang
Daily 11 am – 5 pm

This is one local salad that appeals even to non-vege eaters but it takes a good sauce to separate the wheat from the chaff. We have been getting our regular Indian rojak fix from this mobile van since we discovered it by chance earlier this year. For RM3.50 per plate, the mixed salad of chopped prawn fritters, deep-fried flour and coconut fritters, firm beancurd, shredded cucumber and sengkuang (jicama), and hard boiled egg smothered in a scrumptious sweet, nutty and spicy sauce will leave you clamouring for more. You can also get the guy to add on some spicy brown cuttlefish (at additional cost) for extra flavour and texture. Wash it all down with a bowl of ais cendol.

Chow down!

Tuesday, July 18, 2006

TERRIFIC TEOCHEW TEMPTATIONS


^Classic Teochew Delight of Stewed Goose

^Traditional dessert of Mung Bean in Syrup

^Signature of Toh Lee - Goma Pudding with Ice-cream

^Superbly nutritious soup of Duck Wing & Preserved Plum

^Alluring Abalone in eight different preparations

^Crispy & Crunchy Deep-fried Mung Bean Spring Rolls

^Unusual but nice...Abalone Smoked with Chang Wood & Tea


Most Malaysians will invariably think of the ever-popular Teochew porridge, Teochew-style steamed fish and that sticky yam dessert known as or nee whenever the mention of Teochew dishes crop up.

In her book titled The Heritage of Chinese Cooking, renowned Australian Chinese author Elizabeth Chong noted that the Teochew or Chiu Chow (as it known in Cantonese) community originates from Shantou or Swatow, an area about 270 km east of Guangzhou. Their predominantly seafood-based cuisine is similar to the Cantonese albeit with more robust flavours from the use of garlic, fresh and dried lemons, fermented beanpaste and fish sauce.

Having worked for a Singaporean Teochew sifu (master chef), Hotel Nikko’s Chinese Chef C Y Chan is quick to second those facts. With close to two decades of industry experience, Chef Chan is not only well-versed in different aspects of Chinese cuisine, he is also a firm believer in doing certain things like basic soup stock the old-fashioned way.

So if you like a sampling of other Teochew delicacies, Chef Chan has created a small but enticing selection of Teochew dishes such as Teochew-style Stewed Goose, Braised Superior Shark’s Fin and Deep-fried Mung Beans Spring Rolls amongst others for diners to try.

"Some are classical delights while a few are updated interpretations," said Chef Chan.

The crispy Deep-fried Spring Rolls (RM8.00++) reflects the latter as it is filled with mashed skinless mung beans, finely shredded wood’s ear fungus, duck meat and Chinese mushroom. The intermingling of textures and delicate flavours made for interesting eating.

This light yet flavourful vein continues in the sublime soup of Double-boiled Duck Wing with Plum (RM35++). A delicious, nourishing broth that will perk you up instantly, it reminded me of grannie's hum choi tong or salted vegetable soup of my childhood. Subtly imbued with the tanginess of preserved plum and sliced lemon, the tasty soup draws its exquisitely sweet flavours from the sea cucumber, black mushroom and chopped duck wing in it.

I have always enjoyed eating Teochew-style braised duck from street side stalls with the accompaniments of tow foo (beancurd) and hard-boiled eggs. So the classic delicacy of Stewed Goose (RM60++ for half, RM120++ for whole) certainly left more than a favourable impression. It is a superbly elegant dish that not only emphasizes the tender and succulent goose, but also the delicious sauce imbued with the aromatic nuances of Chinese spices.

Other noteworthy Teochew specialities which I'm sure you'd find equally agreeable will be Stir-fried Sliced Chicken with Peppercorns, Scrambled Egg with Baby Oysters, Deep-fried Yam Finger Rolls and Sautéed Vegetables with Dried Sole. Head on over to Toh Lee Restaurant before end of July if you wish to discover a bit more about these terrific dishes.

If you have a penchant for abalone, don’t miss the Abalone Promotion which runs concurrently from now until end August 2006. Citibank card holders will have extra incentive to indulge thanks to Toh Lee’s Buy One Free One deal at RM120++ for any of the outlet's abalone specialities. The unbeatable offer is only valid until July 31, 2006 though.

Master Chef Loh Chon Hor has conjured up eight different preparations using premium Australian abalone exclusively for this promotion. The Braised Whole Abalone with Fish Lip and Garlic is a gourmet’s delight as the abalone’s sweet, complex flavour and smooth flesh which is slightly resistant to the bite was amply complemented by a light sauce. A whole pip of smoked garlic, blanched broccoli florets and sliced fish lips bestowed their own distinctive textures and flavours to the dish but stopped short of eclipsing the gastropod.

Another intriguing creation is the Braised Whole Abalone with ‘Chang’ Wood and Tea. This preparation imbued the shellfish with a discernible smokiness which makes it different from the usual abalone dishes you’d encounter. I reckon it is good enough to eat on its own although the accompanying sweet dip served on the side gives it a unique taste dimension.

The remaining epicurean selection includes Braised Whole Abalone in Brown Sauce, Braised Abalone with Venison Tendon, Braised Abalone with Dried Scallop, Braised Abalone with Goma (Sesame) Cream and Broccoli, Braised Abalone with Sea Cucumber and Chinese Scallion, and Mini Monk Jumps Over The Wall.

Two typical Teochew dessert, Chilled Mung Beans in Syrup (RM8++ per bowl) and Sweetened Yam Paste with Gingko Nuts (RM10++) are available to round off your meal nicely. Alternatively, try Toh Lee’s signature Chilled Goma Pudding with Ice-cream comprising a superbly smooth sesame pudding with its delicate nutty aftertaste.

Located on Level 1 of Hotel Nikko, the elegant ambience of Toh Lee Chinese Restaurant makes it a top draw for corporations and discerning Chinese food lovers. Its polished, unobtrusive service befits the outlet’s understated luxurious setting which includes several beautifully appointed private dining rooms.

TOH LEE CHINESE RESTAURANT (pork-free)
Level 1 Hotel Nikko Kuala Lumpur
165 Jalan Ampang
50450 Kuala Lumpur
Reservations: 2782 6128.

Business hours: Daily12 noon to 2.30 pm (lunch) and 6.30 to 10.30 pm (dinner)

Thursday, June 29, 2006

FEAST FOR FRANCOPHILES


Decadent Chocolate Cake to melt your heart

Sweetbreads to invoke that Fear Factor?


Crusty lamb rack with coucous for meat lovers

Classy fish dish with real Beluga caviar

Dream dish of gooseliver pate - scrumptious!

A French sojourn at Le Bouchon



Step into Le Bouchon and you'd be magically transported to the French countryside - the outlet's homey discreet and cosy décor has all the trappings of a small provincial eatery that reflects the Gallic roots of its proprietor and chef de cuisine Philippe Le Francois.

Le Bouchon is known as somewhat of an institution amongst discerning diners for its traditional, well-cooked French dishes.

“We have a very strong, loyal clientele who like our specialities - hearty, rustic dishes that French people eat on a daily basis and not the nouvelle cuisine dishes that the rest of the world presume we eat. There is a big difference,” said Monsieur Le Francois.

He continues: “The French provincial atmosphere here reminds our guests of the warm hospitality and charming countryside in France. While our food and wine may have the fine-dining approach, local diners are made to feel at ease by our experienced staff. They are always happy to help diners who are unfamiliar with French food with some recommendations."

The quality of food here is proudly held up by an all-Malaysian kitchen team under the owner's guidance. “We offer many timeless, classic dishes that diners expect of a typical French restaurant. Some are modified slightly but subtly to accommodate our guests’ requirements and ensured originality of taste is maintained.

“To some extent, traditional French food is similar to many great Asian cuisines. The French also eats many different things including all parts of a beast to avoid wastage. Hence, adventurous diners can enjoy offal dishes like ox tongue and sweetbreads here. It's unprecedented for a French restaurant in Kuala Lumpur but diners who come here know they can get something different apart from de rigeur French dishes such as coq au vin and duck-leg confit.”

This distinctive trait was aptly reflected in the special appetizer of Veal Sweetbreads (calf’s thymus gland). I felt like one of the Fear Factor participants as the sweetbread’s delicate, chewy texture was definitely an acquired taste. Or perhaps it was my own overactive imagination wreaking havoc on my normally adventurous tastebuds...

Personally I’d highly recommend Les Escargots De Bourgogne (RM30++) and La Terrine De Foie Gras (RM48++). The Burgundy snails were notable for its accompanying creamy spinach sauce. Smooth and luxuriant, the homemade goose liver terrine is lifted to greater heights by the subtle, caramelized sweetness of the onion jam. Spread onto toasted sour dough bread slices, it is hard to stop at just one slice.

Other gourmet options to start with include Pan-fried Goose Liver served with Grape and Apple Glace, Roasted Unpasteurised Goat Cheese with Honey, Mixed Salad and Sautéed Apples, and the ultimate Russian Beluga Caviar with Toasted Canapés, Sour Cream, Chopped Onion and Egg.

I chose Grilled Triple Candied Rack of Lamb Provencale on Light Mint Glaze (RM78++) for the main course while my partner accepted the chef’s suggestion of Poached Seabass Fillet and Prawn Brochette with Smoked Salmon and Dill Sauce on Tagliatelle (RM98++).

The lamb was cooked to medium doneness as requested but it was surprisingly quite tough to cut. However, I liked the crisp, outer crust of mustard and breadcrumbs. Happily the fish fared very well and it has nothing to do with the precious pearls of Beluga caviar on top. Having sampled two mouthfuls of the exquisite creation, my partner cleaned out his plate despite him not being a great fish fan!

Again if you are one of those who enjoy exotic stuff, try the Braised Ox Tongue with Gherkins, Mushrooms and Madeira Sauce (RM68++). Equally popular amongst Le Bouchon’s regulars are the Sirloin of Beef with Tarragon and Butter Sauce, Crispy Salmon Escalopes and Beef Fillet topped with Sliced Pan-fried Goose Liver and Sautéed Perigord Winter Black Truffle.

Dessert comprised Mouelleux au Chocolat (RM32++), a decadent chocolate cake with a molten Valrhona Chocolate centre accompanied by a scoop of Vanilla Ice-cream. It is advisable to order this at the start of your meal as the kitchen team needs at least 20 minutes to whip up this sublime dessert. Caramelized apple tart, crème brulee, poached pear William in red wine, flavoured chocolate sponge cake and mascarpone, chocolate profiteroles and crème brulee make up the remaining sweet treats.

Le Bouchon’s full á la carte menu undergones changes every few months whilst weekly specials for both food and wine are also offered via a four-course Gourmet Menu (RM148++) and a three-course Menu Terroir (RM108++). The staff here is warm and friendly, and knowledgeable about the many specialities served.

A special menu will be available at Le Bouchon to commemorate the forthcoming French national day on July 14. Known as Fête nationale or 14 Juillet in France (generally referred to as Bastille Day in English), colourful parades are held during the day followed by magnificent fireworks at night. But as noted by Le Figaro, France’s renowned newspaper, throughout France "people feasted a lot to honour the Bastille". Oui, food is indeed part and parcel of life – in France, it’s synonymous with the good life.

Le Bouchon (pork-free)
14&16 Changkat Bukit Bintang
50450 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +603 2142 7633
Fax: +603 2142 7633
Website: www.lebouchonrestaurant.com


Opening hours – Tuesday to Friday 12 noon to 2 pm (lunch)
Tuesday to Sunday 7 pm to 10.30 pm (dinner)
Closed on Mondays

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