Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Heaven Scent


Champagne Risotto with Truffle Shavings from il Lido

Truffles Create Stinky Situation On West Side « CBS New York- News, Sports, Weather, Traffic and the Best of NY

The above CBS news snippet reminded me of the sumptuous Champagne Risotto topped with Black Truffle shavings that we enjoyed recently at il Lido, one of Kuala Lumpur's newest Italian restaurants. I for one certainly wouldn't mind the pricey ingredient's seductively earthy-musky scent! Rich and creamy, the risotto was exquisitely al dente - the perfect canvas to capture the truffle's inherent and intoxicating aroma.





Earlier our meal had gone off to a flying start with two interesting appetisers: Crab Salad with Avocado & Bisque Jelly and Parma Ham with Rock Melon. Don't let the former's pared down presentation fool you as the resultant combination of flavours and textures worked out surprisingly well. The latter is another classic pairing that even the most finicky diner would gladly devour.



Honestly, I've never been that big a fan of ravioli as more often than not, they tend to be overcooked and in my opinion, don't hold a candle to Chinese wontons. Until I tried il Lido's mind-blowing Seafood Ravioli with Shellfish Emulsion.

Mind you, the dainty albeit slightly wrinkly parcels of pasta appeared so plain and simplistic in a puddle of brown sauce when it was served that I paid the dish scant attention. So imagine my surprise and delight at the unexpected bursts of full-bodied, hearty nuances and multi-layer textures that would forever change my perception of this particular pasta. The superbly flavourful shellfish emulsion left me wanting more as did the slippery smooth ravioli filled with minced seafood.



Just when we thought that things couldn't get any better, the Linguine with Jumbo Sea Prawns and Sausage proved to be worth tangling over till the last strand.



Out of the several main courses we tried, I rekon the simplest Seabass Fillet with Braised Fennel, Vanilla and ‘Taggiasche’ Olives stole the show...well at least for me.



Unsurprisingly, the Sardinian Roasted Suckling Pig with Plum Sauce has been a runaway success with diners. The best part is of course the sinfully rich yet crisp pork skin that literally crackles as you bite into it. Underneath was a barely discernible layer of fat and moist, tender meat.



In the old days, beef cheeks were lumped with cheaper cuts and offal that only the poor and desperate housewives would consider buying. Not anymore. Today many a celeb chef goes to great lengths to showcase this classic ingredient. Wisely il Lido's executive chef Samuele Alvisi opts to stay true to his Italian roots which saw his Wagyu Beef Cheek with Celeriac Pure' & Fava Beans turned out to be unapologetically hearty and rustic as any home-cooked version.



After sampling the stupendously indulgent but superlicious Baked Eggplant Mozzarella Cheese Cake wth Tomato & Basil, I wonder if this could just be the dish to trick my cheese-crazy kid into eating her veg! Gooey and creamy, this is one speciality that is bound to go down well regardless of whether you're a vegetarian or not.



Dessert options are aplenty here but it was the Molten Lava Chocolate Cake (more molten chocolate than cake but hey, what's there to complain?) that has this chocoholic go weak in the knees.



The quartet of Creme Brule Simphony featuring vanilla, pistachio, coffee and strawberry-flavoured variants makes an interesting departure from the tried-and-tested formula. I love the intense coffee accent followed by the pistachio and strawberry. As for the timeless vanilla, what's not to like?



For those who seek a lighter but no less exquisite treat before calling it a night, the marble smooth Vanilla Panna Cotta with Fresh Berry Basket is the perfect choice.

Naturally dining at il Lido won't come cheap but if you're a Citibank cardholder, you'll enjoy 50% off main course (with a minimum purchase of appetizer or pasta per person) at il Lido from now until 30 December 2010. Offer is valid for up to 6 persons per table and applicable for lunch and dinner daily except on the eve of and actual public holidays. Just quote the Citibak promotion upon booking/before ordering.

The outlet also offers a special set lunch priced at RM50 per person. It's a good deal worth taking if you wanna check if all the gushing reviews on il Lido are for real ;-D

il Lido Italian Dining & Lounge Bar
Lot 183 Jalan Mayang
Off Jalan Yap Kwan Seng
Kuala Lumpur
Tel: (03) 2161 2291
Fax: (03) 2161 2295
www.il-lido.com.my

Friday, August 27, 2010

SLEEPLESS IN SHENZHEN



It felt a bit weird when you can’t Facebook nor blog while in Shenzhen...

Anyway the 3 days/2 nights working trip was rather unexpected but I guess I should be used to such turn of events by now. It an uneventful 1st day save for the fact that I unwittingly became d proverbial sui yue (Chinese terminology for sucker!) and boarded a (unauthorised) taxi (Chinese-style kereta sapu) fm d airport and was conned out RMB400 (approx.RM200) just 4 tat trip! >.<

The person I was s'posed 2 meet turned out 2 b friendly n spent some time explaining abt their company’s BJD range. Lets just say their dolls r NOT yr average mass produced Barbies...While I lurve some of d doll outfits, I found certain dolls’ large glassy stares and facial expressions somewhat unnerving.

Was ravenous by the time I checked into the nearby Hanting Express (inn). I popped into a nearby convenience store n bought myself a rice dumpling and a herbal tea egg. Gobbled tat down but was hungry again by 6 pm. Being the coward that I am (of course u cant tell cus I was so-oo good at walking around with some kinda swagger and a sense of bravado ;p) I went 2 a no-frills restaurant for dinner after being taken in by all the hanging goodies in the window display that looked similar to our regular chicken/duck rice stall.

I ordered fried noodles – the waitress assured me it’s a manageable portion – until i saw the actual serving! It could hv fed a family of 2 adults & 1 kid seriously...the noodles weren’t great although it was handmade and the 'liew' (ingrdients) were kinda lame: long stringy beansprouts, shards of omelette, ham strips of some kind and chives.

Greedy me also ordered a side dish of stir-fried corn kernels with pine seeds, peas and diced carrot which tasted decent albeit slightly oily. In the end I had to pack the leftovers 2 takeaway. What I like most was the appetiser of pickled kelp strips with chilli, garlic & vinegar – it was tangy and left a fiery-hot burn at the back of the throat. Sure made an impact.

That dinner cost me RMB32 which works to abt RM15 – d boss even asked me how come i couldn't finish d food! Well hello obviously it was too much for one person ... unless u happen 2 b a voracious local?!!

Admittedly everything else that came out of the kitchen n headed for other tables looked way way better than what I had! What was that pearl of wisdom again abt observing what locals eat n then ordering d same? Must remind self 2 practise what's being preached!

Really kicked myself when I strolled to d front of my htl n found that the whole frigging place was Restaurant City! I kid you not...the whole row of them boast huge flashing neon signboards as if it was a Las Vegas-style food show!

The 6-7 restaurants proffer Chaozhao, steamboat, salt water duck ...well, my Chinese knowledge can't even match up to primary school standards so the rest’s lost on moi! Terribly frustrating as I only recognised certain words like mien (noodle), ya (duck), yue (fish), hu’o (fire something which presumably means ‘for wor’ or hot pot in Cantonese!) There was one ultra-modern outlet that looked intriguing like a Japanese restaurant nut I could be wrong. Like us Msians d Chinese here also love to eat...some eateries were fuller than others – dunno if it was becos they’re cheap & nice or just cheap...

TO BE CONTINUED

Monday, July 19, 2010

ENRICHING DINING EXPERIENCE


If you have a penchant for Sang Har Meen or freshwater prawn noodles, Richwell in PJ is the place to go. Complemented by toothsome egg noodles that are deliciously drenched in thick, rich and eggy gravy, the sizeable prawns (RM10/100g) are fresh and springy to the bite.

Helmed by veteran chef C.Y. Kam from the now defunct Restoran Teochew in Pudu, Richwell is the chef’s new domain where he adroitly serves up ‘old but gold’ comfort food at surprisingly reasonable prices.

You can of course splurge out on the usual fineries such as shark’s fin, abalone and other live seafood but most of the outlet’s homely offerings would only set you back between RM12 to RM45 each depending on serving size.

Two of the best dishes here are Pan-fried Minced Pork with Lotus Root (RM12-small, RM18-medium, RM24-large) and ‘Tong Por Yoke’, a sublime dish of Sliced Pork Braised in Soya Sauce (RM20-small, RM30-medium, RM40-large). The former is an old-school but scrumptious delight in which minced pork, chopped lotus root, water chestnut, and dried sole are flattened into a patty and pan-fried until the edges turn crispy.


Instead of the ubiquitous man tou (steamed wheat rolls), the glistening, fork-tender braised pork slices in its dark and slightly unctuous soya gravy are enjoyed with pieces of crispy, light-as-air rice crackers that lend a nice textural contrast to the rich hearty speciality.

Equally good is the peppery Fried Glass Noodles with Crab in Claypot (RM25-small, RM35-medium, RM45-large) come highly recommended.


Another irresistible creation here is the Red Garoupa in Claypot (RM25-small, RM35-medium, RM45-large) that would have you picking the fish’s sweet, smooth flesh clean and savouring every last drop of the tasty broth and every bite of the silky-soft foo chok (bean curd sheet) in the pot.


Baby Lai Pak (a type of vegetable with milky white stems and dark green leaves) with Yam in Claypot (RM15-small, RM20-medium, RM25-large) lent a satisfying balance to our scrumptious meal.


For the finale, sample Or Nee (RM20), a popular Teochew dessert made from mashed yam and ginkgo nuts.


For reservations at RICHWELL RESTAURANT (non-halal), call tel: (03) 7955 5855. Address: 24G & 26G, Jalan 19/3, Petaling Jaya Selangor. Business hours: 11 am – 3 pm; 5.30 pm – 11 pm daily

Thursday, July 15, 2010

WELL AND TRULY ROASTED!



Whenever my family crave for roast duck, we'd always head to our favourite shop - Yi Kee in Taman Connaught, Cheras.

The shop owners, Mr and Mrs Liew Thiam Choy also sell Hong Kong-style roast goose (RM33 – RM130 depending on portion size)but these are in limited supply to ensure freshness. We also love the char siew (BBQ roast pork in a bewitchingly dark sweetish marinade) and siew yoke (roast pork).



But our mainstay has always been its Roast Duck (RM13 – RM50) which is redolent with the aroma and flavor of five-spice powder and Chinese ‘hua tiao’ wine. There is just a slight trace of fat underneath the skin; the meat is delectably compact but not tough.



According to Mrs Liew, roast goose meat tastes juicier and has more tender texture compared to roast duck.

“Our goose comes from China, Hungary, Taiwan or Thailand weighing around 4 kilos each. We have our own special marinade for it; the goose is kept in a cooling cabinet for a minimum of nine hours before it is roasted.

“You'd find our roast duck’s inherent gamey taste is subtly tempered with ginger powder. All the ducks are hand-roasted by Mr Liew to prevent them from being undercooked or overly burnt.”



Instead of the usual sweet bean sauce, the roast specialities are served with sweet plum sauce and chilli dip which are the ubiquitous accompaniments in Hong Kong.

Other delicious home-style dishes available at Yi Kee include Braised Goose Web (RM3-RM4 each), Choi Yin Kai (steamed village-bred chicken, RM13-RM16), Pig’s Stomach with Peppercorn Soup (RM10), Double-boiled Soup (RM3) and Shuin Choi (mustard leaves stewed in a tangy, spicy tamarind-based broth, RM3 – RM8 per serving). If you have a penchant for Pig’s Trotters Braised in Black Vinegar and Ginger, this traditional delight is only served on Sundays and public holidays.

Choice Tip: Try pasta lightly stir-fried with pesto, some sweet bean sauce and shredded roast duck! Any leftovers can also be cooked with fresh mustard leaves and presto! you have a delicious pot of choi kiok, that tangy-spicy stewed vege beloved by many Chinese & Nyonya families.

Restoran Yi Kee (non-halal), tel: (03) 9132 9968. Address: 223, Jalan Sarjana, Taman Connaught, Kuala Lumpur is open daily from 11.00 am to 5.00 pm daily except on alternate Wednesdays.

Friday, July 09, 2010

RACE'S FOR FLAVOUR FIRST



"Chefs are like artists but not everyone can be Salvador Dali."

That was the candid opinion of two Michelin starred chef John Burton Race who was one of the guest chefs for Starhill's Midsummer Night's Feasts this year.

In a upclose but nothing personal session with the media (both mainstream and online) at Shook!, Race came across as a really down-to-earth guy who readily admits that he wanted to become a chef when he was 7-8 years old.

"I used to help our family cook out a lot and remember this great big guy in his white chef's uniform at the hotel where we stayed on one of our holidays," says Race. "I was so impressed by him that I made up my mind there and then that he was who I wanted to be when I grow up."

Born in Singapore, Race reveals he was no stranger to the Asian continent.

"My step-father was with the United Nations Development Program (UNDP) so we've lived in Johor Bahru, Jakarta, Bandung, Melaka, Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Singapore. I didn't have a typical childhood like most Caucasian kids; I spent my days playing in the great outdoors, tagging along with villagers to the paddy fields, spearing fish there, making giant kites and flying them, and playing kite-fighting."

When he was in his teens, Race was sent to boarding school in the United Kingdom. He subsequently moved to France to work as a chef upon completing his professional trainng.

"I love the French way of living - they don't work too much, drink a lot and enjoy long lunches!" enthuses Race. "It was a great life but not for an English guy like me as they reckon Englishmen can't cook so I was forced to start right at the bottom in the kitchen."

Still he admires the French philosophy towards food and eating, admitting that he learned to appreciate food sources, how whole process of how produce is grown and animals are raised, and seasonality affects the food that people eat while he was in France.

"Fifty percent of good cooking is attributed to the ingredients that are used; having an understanding of ingredients is really paramount to a chef."

That is one of the reasons why the celebrated chef prefers to cook with local ingredients where ever he goes.

"It doesn't make sense to use seabass that was flown from thousands of miles away. For my stint here, I'd be replacing the seabass in my recipe with the local tilapia which is fresher. That's the most common mistake many European chefs make when they come to Asia. They want to leave their mark but they have to realise that the best flavours come from using regional and indigenious products while the cooking techniques can still be French or European.

"I don't have a blinkered view in this aspect. Also I'm fortunate that I'm familiar with Asian herbs and spices so I won't hesitate to use them in my cooking."

When asked on his view on molecular gastronomy, Race says he admires Ferran Adria for his inventive approach.

"I've nothing against molecular gastronomy but I'm kind of old-school when it comes to cooking. El Bulli can be quite an experience - the food's artistically done, the flavours are very intense but I do miss the different textures of real food."

He stressed that chefs must remember who they are cooking for; they must respect their customers and culture. "Very few people 'get it' and the ones who do have the possibility of being an artist. You can't stop learning and the world doesn't have time for insular chefs."

What is his favourite food? "Oh the world's too big for me to have just one favourite dish. I love the richness and sweetness of durians, those of mangosteens and rambutans."

When pressed on what would he choose to eat as his last meal on earth, Race gleefully reeled off "25 items" that include nasi goreng Indonesia, champagne, freshwater prawn noodles, French wines, chocolates, breads, and "choke to death on some good shellfish!"



The celebrity chef who has hosted several cooking shows on TV also is also a published author. His Flavour First cookbook is written to inspire people to cook but has absolutely no idea how to go about it.

"It's very basic and hopefully they'll gain more confidence as they go along."

CURRYING FAVOUR WITH A NEW CHEF


It is not everday when one's first encounter with a new Japanese chef in town was over a bowl of Curry Udon.

But that was exactly what happened when Prince Hotel & Residence Kuala Lumpur hosted some food bloggers including yours truly to meet ENJU's latest king of its Japanese kitchen - Chef Heiji Kasuga.

Our encounter was fleetingly brief as the new chef had his hands full; the restaurant turned out to be unexpectedly busy on the evening we were there.

Still, with 46 years of experience under his torque, Chef Kasuga seemed undaunted by the frenetic pace and gamely served up a succession of dishes for us to sample. Most were typical Japanese fare with the exception of 1-2 items which had subtle fusion accents.

Setting the ball rolling was Assorted Makimono featuring 3 types of rolled sushi. The first was ENJU Dynamite Roll (top) made with fresh salmon, cucumber, flying fish roe, tempura flakes, avocado and vineegared rice wrapped in seaweed. Although the change is barely discernible, the rolls did appear daintier than before.

Two other rolls were those reversed versions that were speckled with different types of roe outside. One was filled with crabstick, cucumber, avocado and egg with orange fish roe (pix above) while the other combined pickled daikon (radish), cucumber and crabstick with green prawn roe.

We also sampled a slightly fusion dish - Murugai Yaki (grilled mussels with egg yolk sauce). It was an incredibly simple but moreish delicacy - I love that the inherent sweetness of the mussels remained intact despite the rich creamy sauce on top of it.

Chef Kasuga also proffered Gindara Saikyo Yaki which was grilled cod that had been marinated with miso (Japanese soya bean paste). The fish came in bite-size pieces on Chinese soup soons for easy eating. Personally I found the miso flavour far too mild and local palates used to stronger, more robust fare may find the overall taste a tad too bland for their liking.

Next up as the Soft Shell Crab Karaage. Thankfully the deep-fried soft shell crab pieces remained crispy to the bite after photography was completed. Dainty mounds of creamy potato salad were served on the side to lend additional susbtance.

Then came the bowl of Curry Udon which I stared at intriguingly. When I took my first mouthful, I hadn't really prepare myself for the thick gravy's unexpected burst of sweetness. My facial expression must have been quite comical and caught the chef's eye. He immediately bustled over, declared proudly that it was a classic Japanese favourite and asked for my opinion. Well...I had to admit that it was my first run-in with the dish and told him that it was indeed a novel experience. Luckily my other half thought the noodles were great so I gladly let him devoured the whole lot and Chef Kasuga seemed to be ok with that.

All in all, the food was agreeable though I think we were anticipating 'sparks' to fly. Perhaps the chef is playing it safe for now and decides to keep things on an even keel?

Thursday, June 17, 2010

COMFORT FOOD


I totally agree with the saying that 'reading maketh a full man'...I love poring over cookbooks packed with glorious food photos and devouring food-themed novels with great relish.

Comfort Food by Kate Jacobs is a heartwarming tale about a celebrity chef - Augusta Simpson whose popular cooking show 'Cooking with Gusto' was forced to undergo drastic changes as TV ratings dipped.

The protagonist naturally was forced to share the limelight with a former beauty queen and Internet Foodie Queen, Carmen Vega on a new TV show. It didn't help that Augusta or fondly known as Gus would be turning 50 soon and her two grown-up daughters started rebelling against their mother's well-meaning albeit misguided intrusions into their lives.

It is a heartwarming tale of how changes in life can bring renewed happiness, unexpected love and the unlikeliest of friendship to Gus and those that she loves and loathes amidst the trials and tribulations of a successful cooking show and what goes on behind the scenes.

Reading Comfort Food reminds me of some nostalgic favourites from my salad days such as Nasi Kerabu, Udang Masak Lemak and Pineapple Upside Down Cake. So recently I put my cooking skills to the test and recreated all these dishes. Needless to say, my family was the primary beneficiary of those culinary attempts!

To welcome back my brother-in-law who has been away for two years from Malaysia, I prepared Nasi Kerabu, Ayam Percik, Udang Masak Lemak Nenas and some fresh salad for a family dinner.


All the recipes were Rohani Jelani's (refer to my earlier blog Saturday Cooks) which I replicated successfully. Phew!

Doesn't the Ayam Percik look scrumptious? It's an East Coast-style roast chicken marinated with fresh turmeric served with a mildly spicy sauce.

My Mom was especially ecstatic over the Nasi Kerabu - cooked rice with a mixture of local fresh herbs such as pegaga, mint and curry leaves, ulam raja, daun selom, Thai basil, ginger flower and turmeric leaf, dry-fried grated coconut, shredded ginger and lemon grass. She calls it ngap chai fanIt means duckling rice in Cantonese due to its resemblence to duck's feed (basically consisting of leftover rice, vegetables, etc) of yesteryear.

Everyone also loved the Udang Masak Lemak Nenas - prawns cooked in coconut milk and spices with pineapple especially the rich and tantalising gravy!

PIECE OF CAKE

Last Sunday instead of emptying my wallet at the malls, I baked up a long cherised recipe - Pineapple Upside Down Cake!

It was based on Chef Wan's recipe from his Sweet Treats book. Although the measurements given were a tad confusing (how much butter constitutes 1/4 cup?), I somehow managed to figure things out.

This is how the cake looked fresh from the oven and voila! when it was removed from the baking pan, I was really pleased with the results.

Next time, I would sprinkle more sugar at the base as per the recipe (I actually cut down on half the amount as I presumed the cake would be too sweet) before laying down the pineapple rings. I'd also add in some chopped pineapples to give the cake a nicer texture. But I'd definitely make this again!

For those who has asked for the recipe for the Pineapple Upside Down Cake, here it is:

55g butter
115g brown sugar
8 pineapple rings
6 whole glace cherries
240g cake flour
2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
115g unsalted butter
225g caster sugar
2 eggs
2 tsp vanilla essence
1 cup pineapple juice

1. Grease a 22cm cake pan with butter. Sprinkle brown sugar over the base and sides of pan.
2. Arrange pineapple rings in a single layer over the sugared base. Place a cherry in the centre of each pineapple ring. Set aside.
3. Pre-heat oven to 170 degrees C.
4. Sift flour together with baking powder and salt.
5. In a separate bowl cream butter and sugar until fluffy. Beat in sifted ingredients, eggs, vanilla essence and pineapple juice.
6. Pour batter into cake pan that has been lined with pineapple rings. Bake for 45 minutes. Check to see if cake is done by inserting skewer into the cake centre. If it comes out clean, the cake is ready to be removed from oven.
7. Cool in cake tin for about 15-20 minutes before removing it from the cake pan.

Featured Post

EXPLOSIVE SURPRISE FROM CAKE RUSH

Whimsical. Fun. Impactful. Imagine a flock of butterflies fluttering up once you open Cake Rush’s latest Explosion Gift Box. We were thrille...