SHOW-STOPPERS OF SHHHBUUULEEE

 “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication” Leonardo da Vinci

Tofu with Soy-cured Egg Yolk, Tomato Water and Herbs (RM22). Drunken Cockles with Rice Wine, Taucu and Mustard Seeds Oil (RM38). Grouper Head Terrine with Chayote, Szechuan Pepper and Chilli Vinaigrette (RM32).

When you encounter such show-stopping house specialities, it dawns on you Shhhbuuuleee isn’t any run-of-the-mill rooftop bar and restaurant. The defyingly simple yet intensely flavour-packed curtain-raisers are mere harbingers of what to expect from this quaint outpost, ‘hidden’ atop RexKL, an old cinema reincarnated into a hip cultural and creative hub.

Upon arriving at RexKL, the hunt for the resto’s ultra-discreet staircase entrance in a mini adventure in itself…hint: it’s within Book Xcess. As I climbed the flights of stairs up to the outpost, I felt like Alice heading into ‘wonderland’.

The interior of Shhhbuuuleee features a seamless integration of the old: RexKL’s original flooring and walls; and the new: extended bar seating, minimalist eclectic elements and retro touches are artfully combined to evoke a casual, laidback atmosphere.

Like those art house flicks produced to appeal to a discerning audience, Chef Mui Kai Quan is the culinary director whose creative force comes from past stints gleaned from Osteria Mozza and Esquina in Singapore, Ledbury in London, Maaemo in Oslo and Sprout in Johor Bahru. While his modern Malaysian fare takes centre stage at ChoCha Foodstore, Mui now intends to shine the spotlight on East Asian fare with his inimitable touches at Shhhbuuuleee.

After that stellar cast of curtain-raisers, good conversations flow smoothly along thanks to the recommended tipple: Shuho Awesome Karakuchi (RM35 per glass, RM280 per bottle) is winsome for its clean, refreshing taste. The chilled saké paired superbly well with the specialities mentioned earlier as well as the appetite-whetting Wagyu Tartare with Pickled Radish & Seaweed Crackers (RM52).

Local produce also takes the limelight when possible. The chef is an earnest supporter and advocate of local farmers and food producers like the Langit Collective, and champions more sustainable eating in the local F&B scene.

Ample proof of the chef’s mantra is evident in the Grilled Peppers with Sesame & Peanut Butter (RM26). Locally grown, the colourful assortment of banana and shishito peppers tossed in sesame and peanut butter tastes delicately sweet and deliciously tender.

The other scene-stealer was Red Glutinous Rice with Sakura Shrimp & Salt-Cured Fish Roe (RM24). We relished every bite of the nutty, slightly sticky home-grown red glutinous rice which has absorbed the rich savouriness of both the shrimps and fish roe.

Sweet with a fair amount of smooth, fine flesh, the Tai Head with Bamboo Fungi Broth and Puffed Rice (RM88) easily reeled us in. The accompanying broth – chicken stock and bamboo pith simmered for hours – alone was so chockful of flavours, we lapped up every precious drop.  A chilled shochu, Satsumamura Aka Shochu (RM35 per shot) enhanced our enjoyment of the said dish.

Drawing inspiration from his Chinese roots, Mui uses fu yue (fermented beancurd) to conjure up the homely Braised Tripe & Tendon with Fu Yu Broth, Daikon, Lotus Root & Tang Oh (RM48). For the uninitiated, the savoury Chinese condiment tastes similar to cheese; lending depth and complexity to the various ingredients which soaked up all the wonderful flavours of the braising broth.

After being bedazzled by a slew of palate-pleasing blockbusters, subsequent contenders such as Fried Sole with Shiso and Salted Mustard Green (RM42), as well as Sautéed Kale and Wood Ear Mushroom with Kombu Butter (RM22) had to fight harder to gain attention.

Perked up with a relish of chopped salted mustard green (ham choi) and fresh beefsteak leaves serving as an edible wrap for the panko-crusted fish, the former was akin to fish and chips gone East and ‘fit’.

Healthy eating won’t be topping your agenda when you’re at Shhhbuuleee but the kale and wood ear mushroom combo makes an appearance in the menu for good measure. Although the dish was a tad underwhelming, we dutifully polished off every morsel due to its super-nutritious content.

Mui admits he’s still working on dessert and the menu changes based on the availability of the ingredients and produce. So be prepared for more culinary sequels to savour at Shhhbuuleee.

For reservations at Shhhbuuuleee, call: 012-6120786 or https://letsumai.com/widget/shhhbuuuleee. Address: 3^rd Floor, RexKL, 80, Jalan Sultan, Kuala Lumpur.

KANPAI WITH KAMPACHI

Rousing shouts of 'kanpai!' reverberated throughout Kampachi during a recent sake dinner featuring master sake brewers: Toshio Taketsuru, Tomohito Ohata and Noriaki Harada, as well as sake sommelier Shigeyuki Masaki.

Our first taste of sake began with a welcome cocktail to stimulate the palate, building up our sense of anticipation.

Once the formalities were dispensed with, the sake masters proceeded to serve dainty cups of their treasured brews, sharing nuggets of informative facts and giving sake with food pairing suggestions throughout the dinner.

Taketsuru - the 14th generation owner whose family founded the famous Nikka distillery - proffered Taketsuru Junmai, Taketsuru Junmai Nigori and Taketsuru Omachi Junmai Sanmi Ittai on the evening.

It was fascinating to see the meticulous steps taken to ensure each sake was served at the correct temperature, to bring out the tipple's aroma and flavour. Complementary dishes were also placed on the side, to enable guests to savour the sakes with matching delicacies.

 

For instance, Taketsuru Junmai - a dry, creamy yellow sake with robust umami and nutty flavours goes best with marinated or simmered fish, sukiyaki and teppanyaki dishes. Creamier with a sharp acidity, try pairing the smooth Taketsuru Junmai Nigori with fatty fish while the distinctive appetite-whetting Taketsuru Omachi Junmai Sanmi Ittai can be enjoyed cold or hot, making it a great companion for deep-fried fish.

Tomohiko Ohata is the 4th generation owner of Fusozuru - his three sakes ranges from Fusozuru Junmai Nigori (creamy and complex with hint of dry sweetness from the sake lees) and the mellow Fusozuru Junmai (rich, tangy yet astringent) to Fusozuru Junmai Ginjo Sakanishiki (crisp and clean sweetness served cold; wheaty and elegant when warm).

 

Specialities to accompany Furozuru sakes include temaki and makimono (Junmai Nigori), chawan mushi (Junmai) and sashimi, carpaccio and salad (Junmai Ginjo Sakanishiki).

Noriaki Harada, President of Asahigiku also showcased three of his labels: Asahigiku Ayaka, Asahigiku Daichi and Asahigiku Junmai Ginjo Rei.

Unagi, white fish and tomato cream stew are some suggested dishes to go with the mild, fruity Ayaka while grilled fish and simmered fare will find affinity with Daichi since this sake evokes faint umami nuance. For the soft sophistication of Junmai Ginjo Rei, pair it with light appetisers and salads.

Kampachi often hosts similar sake and food matching dinner sessions. For the latest updates and list of Kampachi restaurants, check out: https://www.facebook.com/KampachiOfficial