Tuesday, July 15, 2014

MASTER OF THE GAME

They say never trust a thin chef but make that an exception to the rule where Chef Roy Wong is concerned. Kim Ma is an understated magnet that draws discerning gourmands, the well-heeled and connected through its doors; most of them ardent fans of of the Executive Chinese Chef who prefers to let his Chinese cuisine artistry speaks for itself.

His exquisite amuse bouche of Half Boiled Egg with Japanese Mushroom pressed home the vital point with plenty of pomp. Softer than custard and seductively scented with the rusticity of dainty shimeiji mushrooms, this delicacy is something that you won't forget in a hurry. An ace up his sleeve to fete regulars and VIPs, Wong varies the topping; usually veering from foie gras, abalone or pearly roe depending on his choice and mood.
The restaurant's updated look where matte gold and silver hues merged with minimalist opulence sets the stage for Wong's judicious selection of Chinese specialities. Whether it's bite-size dim sum or fantastical Michelin-worthy dishes, a meal here belies the chef's passion and creative fervour.

Like a canny wizard, Wong teased us with three signature dim sum creations: steamed angled loofah dumplings with superior broth, the classic siew mai adorned with truffle and sumptuous steamed chicken roll with morel mushroom.

Weight-watchers would love the angled loofah and minced prawn filling encased in a slightly chewy, translucent dough. The subtle flavours are further perked up by the superior broth that comes with it.
Textural contrasts and earthy accents are noticeably evident in the chicken roll which mixes chicken meat with chopped morel, deep-fried yam and carrot batonettes in a woodsy porcini mushroom sauce.
The prawn and black mushroom dumplings are springy to the bite, with added crunch bestowed by the garnishing of shrimp roe and spring onion while the sliver of truffle giving it a subtle musky aroma. Served a la carte for lunch on weekdays and brunch (10 am onwards) on weekends from RM10++ per item, the delicate morsels should go down a real treat.
Now this is one of those rare times when I don't mind being in the soup...a sip of Wong's Double-boiled Minced Chicken Broth with Fish Maw, Conpoy and Black Chicken Quenelle (RM45.50++) is enough to convert me into a fan. Even more amazing is the ethereally soft 'beancurd' base in it...which is actually blended chicken meat! The black chicken quenelle with chopped waterchestnuts provides an unexpected crunchiness to the smooth and delicate textures of the fah kaw (fish maw) and dried scallop. This symphony is completed by a long crispy baton of deep-fried beancurd sheet rolled with chopped fresh black and button mushrooms and mashed potato. The chef deserves a standing ovation I tell you!
Taking a leaf from the Italians, Wong reinterprets the ravioli by fashioning his own using Hong Kong (low gluten) flour to create the Chicken Ravioli; stuffing the flour skin with fried shredded egg, chopped morel mushrooms and prawn paste (RM32.50++)and serving it with sublime porcini sauce.
We were also treated to his famed signature Pan-fried King Prawns with XO Sauce (RM48++ per portion) - an indulgently rich speciality that's sinfully succulent and unctuous down to the last nook and cranny of its shell.
Lest you think Wong is only good at high brow dishes, he proves he can rustle up homespun fare with his Housemade Tofu with Diced Chicken & Salted Fish in Claypot (RM28/42/56++ depending on portion size). Inspired by the evergreen ham yue fah lam pou (salted fish with belly pork in claypot), this hearty offering makes no apologies for its strong flavours and bracing aroma; perfect to go with plain white rice.
Lighter nuances emerge from the subsequent Stir-fried Broccoli with Sweet Corn Yam Puff (RM8.50++ per individual portion); aptly demonstrating the chef's ability to ramp up or tone down the spectrum of flavours in his repertoire. Surprisingly, the dish wasn't as bland as we had anticipated as bursts of faint sweetness are discernible in the sweet corn kernels and chicken broth that was used to blend with the yam and basil seed sauce. Differing textures come from the composition of little yam puffs, crunchy basil seeds and broccoli florets in the dish.
There's nothing ho-hum about the Fried Fresh Mushroom Rice with Baked Garlicky Cod (RM33.80++) either. Loaded with rustic fungi nuance, the rice came cylindrically molded and complemented by a square slab of cod topped with creamy garlic sauce and a baby tomato to form a visual feast.
For the sweet finale, Wong conjured up Chilled Snow Lotus Seeds with Mango Sauce, Vanilla Ice Cream and Black Rice Crispies (RM12.50++). Another stunning creation that left us in wonder and brimming with respect as the puffy beras pulut hitam crispies and unusual suit leen chee (snow lotus seeds) got our jaws chomping away in between spoonfuls of fast melting ice cream and mango puree.

The dishes mentioned here are available a la carte as well as in various set menus priced between RM1,688++ and RM3,388++ per table of 10 persons.

For reservations, call KIM MA Restaurant, tel: 03-8944 3784. Address: Palace of the Golden Horses, Jalan Kuda Emas, Mines Wellness City, Seri Kembangan, Selangor

Double-boiled Minced Chicken Broth with Fish Maw and Black Chicken Quenelle (RM45.50++) - See more at: http://pureglutton.com/kim-ma-restaurant-palace-golden-horses-chef-roy-wongs-revamped-menu#sthash.aeQkxCp7.dpuf
Softa Soft-boiled Egg with Japanese mushrooms

Thursday, July 10, 2014

TOP PICKS FOR RAMADAN PART 3



                                                                 HOMECOMING HAVEN




A serene haven to buka puasa away from the city's madding crowd. Chef Badrul and his team's earnest TLC shine through the plethora of classic kampung dishes laid out. Familiar favourites should evoke good memories of one's hometown or village. Our top 3 picks:

1) Ayam masak merah - red, hot and stunningly sumptuous like how an excellent ayam masak merah should be. Am salivating at the very thought of its delicious taste that had lodged itself firmly in my memory bank.

2) Asam pedas oxtail - this is a dark horse (should that be cow?) of a dish. Granted, it is not much to look at all but oh, it will take you a long time to forget the robustness of that spicy-tangy gravy and the slightly gristly texture of the oxtail chunks. A winner in our book!
3) Satay - Good enough to rival those in Kajang...the chunky pieces of beef and chicken (all meat no fatty skin) suffused with tasty marinade that are good enough on their own

At RM69 per head, this is one buffet that's a real steal in the city. Since the hotel is spanking new, I daresay the staff is eager to please too. Trust me, you'd be much better off here than jostling with the hordes elsewhere.

Curvz Cafe, Silka Cheras, KM10, Jalan Cheras, KL. Tel: 03-9100 1133

* * * * *

APPETISING AROMAS
One Semenanjung, One World and one buffet of epic proportions that cover Malay, Indian, Chinese, Nyonya, Eurasian and European specialities at one go nightly. Whether it's  soto ayam and sup ekor pedas or nasi pelangi with gulai kawah and puyuh goreng berempah you crave, the parade of splendid offerings should leave you replete.   


And we haven't even touch on the luscious dessert line-up yet: cendol, pandan kurma mousse and tapai pulut among others to sweeten your dining experience. 
1) Irish lamb stew - gentle on your tums for buka puasa after a day-long fast. Wholesome, nutritious and satisfying soup for the soul...truly comfort food at its best. Chunky cubed lamb adds textural interest and oomph!

2) Fried spiced prawns - zingy on the tongue without rendering it numb, these crustaceans are springy to the bite and redolent with the scent of heady spices. Don't even think of stopping at one...lol!

3) Twisted donuts - their airy-light sponginess had me smitten at first bite. Glittering with fine caster sugar, this dainty offering is just the right size to leave guilt-free from scarfing it down ;-D
Of course, there's abundant other delicious choices on the line-up but be selective and you'd get better bang for your buck minus the risk of overindulging. Price: RM128++  per adult

Cinnamon Coffee House, One World Hotel, First Avenue, Bandar Utama City Centre, Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Tel: 03-7681 1157 


TASTE RENAISSANCE 
Specially prepared for Iftar, Temptations are aplenty with local and Asian specialties whet the appetite. Break your fast with healthy servings of gado gado, pasembur and bubur lambuk before enjoying nasi minyak, nasi tomato and nasi bukhari. 

Whole lamb with percik sauce, daging Palembang, udang harimau masak lemak cili padi, otak-otak kuah padang and other goodies should leave you replete. 
1) Kerabu sotong - tangy-briny local salad with chewy squid pieces flecked with grated coconut; perfect appetite stimulator to kick-start buka puasa
2) Labu masak lemak putih - possibly one of the simplest but yummiest curry ever. Pumpkin simmered in spiced coconut milk gravy resulting in a delicately sweet but flavourful curry.


3) Kek lapis - a traditional classic that one never tires of. Well-spiced and buttery, this is one of the best treats to conclude a lavish dinner.
The three dishes are mere percursors to the entire range of dishes available so don't restrain yourself to that. Notable picks in our book include tiger prawns in turmeric curry, assorted Malay kuihs, grilled fish, fish serunding with lemang, and lamb curry.
 

Priced at RM108++ per person; RM88.16nett per person from 24 July to 27 July

TEMPTationS, East Wing, Renaissance Kuala Lumpur Hotel, Corner of Jalan Ampang and Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 03-2162 2233

* * * * *  
BALIK KAMPUNG BLITZ 

 

Return to your roots with a wide array of nostalgic dishes that will propel you to Balik Kampung, at least culinary-wise. Apart from cherished Malay fare, the Grand Hyatt team has trotted out a vast array of multi-cultural specialities; from murtabak and laksa Johor to chicken tandoori and beef shawarma with pita bread.

1) Paneer Makhani - another pared down offering that has diced cottage cheese cooked with cream and masala powder; slightly spongy to the bite, the mild cheese is the ideal foil to flaunt the myriad of spices used to cook it
2) Roast lamb percik with Briyani Rice - studded with cherry tomatoes, the fluffy grains make a superb match with the percik-rubbed roast lamb. Wickedly delectable!
3) Prawns cooked in bird's eye chilli sambal - deliciously punchy with tongue-tingling chilli and spice blend. Best with rice naturally.
Sweet endings come in the form of pandan chiffon cake, kek lapis Sarawak, bubur pulut hitam and cendol. The young and young at heart will have a field day with old-school tubular ice lollies and kuihs.

Available until 25 July, the nightly buffet dinner (7pm to 10pm) is priced at RM148++ per adult inclusive of chilled juices, barley, teh tarik and other local beverages. 

JP Teres, Ground Floor, Grand Hyatt Kuala Lumpur, 12, Jalan Pinang, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 03-2182 1234 ext 2333

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