TANTALISING TEMPTATIONS OF TAAN THAI

The seasonal dish of Yellow Cockle Curry (RM32.90) alone is reason enough to make the trip to Taan Thai at Sunway Velocity. Freshly shucked, the cockles’ availability bears testament to the philosophy of Taan Thai — literally to “Eat Thai” i.e. cook thoughtfully, serve with intention, and waste nothing.

 
We are stoked to find the cockles barely cooked, just firm enough to hold their sweet mineral nuance, bathed in a gently spiced curry perfumed with cha om (acacia leaves).

Each component of the Signature Appetiser Platter (RM49.90) offers a measured glimpse into the culinary team's budding abilities. A well-composed introduction, it teases our palate with the charred smokiness of pandan-wrapped chicken, a custard-soft mackerel otak, deliciously crisp prawn fritters, scrumptious skewers of grilled pork, and a punchy savoury mackerel dip with cucumber.

 
The Mieng Kam (RM18.90) arrives neatly composed instead of leaving diners to assemble their own. Each betel leaf parcel unleashes a well-balanced profusion of sweet, savoury, and herbal notes. Calibrated with a dab of house-made caramelised shrimp paste, we relish the appetiser’s delicately flavourful depth.

Also on-point are the moreish Crispy Prawn Donuts (RM24.90). Bite into one and you'd find the exterior shatters lightly, giving way to a springy, well-seasoned prawn filling that induces repeat servings.

Soups are treated with much deserved patience. The bright and clean Clear Tom Yum Seafood Soup (RM49.90) delights with its finely tuned acidity, while the Coconut Chicken Soup with Galangal (RM27.90) exudes a softer, more rounded profile.

Touting a culinary team focused on the importance of balance stemming from the use of house-made pastes - ground fresh from herbs and spices - they form the backbone of winsome dishes like the rich and creamy Khao Soi with chicken (RM22.90) or beef (RM28.90) and the pleasant, lingering sharpness of Tangy Pork Belly & Morning Glory Curry (RM29.90). 

Familiar and rare specialities beckon too. Comforting mainstays include house-made Pure Mackerel Thai Fish Cakes (RM18.90) and Pomelo Salad with Signature Taan Thai Dressing (RM23.90) whilst fiery trail-blazers of Spicy Isaan Thai Beef Salad and Southern Thai Minced Chicken Dry Curry (RM20.90) should please chilli heat-seeking fiends.

Equally compelling is the seabass selection. Edging ahead is the Deep Fried Seabass in Spicy & Sour Curry (RM64.90), thanks to the addition of fluffy cha om omelette that soaks up the sauce nicely. Its counterpart, dressed in a vibrant Thai herb and fruit dressing, is lighter but no less engaging.

For those who appreciate greens with character, the Kai Cha-Om (RM19.90) leaves an indelible impression thanks to its unmistakable acacia aroma in omelette form, while the Stir-fried Melinjo with Egg (RM22.90) offers an agreeable bitter counterpoint.

 
Pork dishes are adroitly handled. The Spicy Isaan-style Grilled Pork Neck Salad (RM32.90) carries a gentle smokiness, the Pad Kra Pow Moo Sap (RM23.90) is punchy without being harsh, and the Braised Pork Knuckle (RM32.90) leans into comforting, familiar flavours.

 
Street food staple like Pad See Ew (RM21.90) is given due respect. The flat rice noodles flaunts whiffs of wok hei - that elusive breath of the wok lending heady flavoursome depth to the soy-slicked fried noodles.

Desserts are straightforward but well-judged. Tub Tim Krob (RM14.90) refreshes with its cool sweetness and textural contrast, while Mango Sticky Rice (RM16.90) closes the meal on a comforting note. In Kuala Lumpur’s heat, the invigorating Tom Yum Cooler (RM15.90) and Pandan Cooler with Basil Seeds (RM8.90) provide welcome relief.

Taan Thai is not about theatrics but about clarity of flavour, respect for ingredients, and cooking that's grounded in heart and experience rather than excess. And in today’s dining landscape, that makes Taan Thai worth returning to.

 
For more info and reservations at Taan Thai, call tel: 011-6547 1811. Address: Lot B-25, B1 Floor, Sunway Velocity Mall, Lingkaran SV, Kuala Lumpur.