TANTALISING TEMPTATIONS OF TAAN THAI

The seasonal dish of Yellow Cockle Curry (RM32.90) alone is reason enough to make the trip to Taan Thai at Sunway Velocity. Freshly shucked, the cockles’ availability bears testament to the philosophy of Taan Thai — literally to “Eat Thai” i.e. cook thoughtfully, serve with intention, and waste nothing.

 
We are stoked to find the cockles barely cooked, just firm enough to hold their sweet mineral nuance, bathed in a gently spiced curry perfumed with cha om (acacia leaves).

Each component of the Signature Appetiser Platter (RM49.90) offers a measured glimpse into the culinary team's budding abilities. A well-composed introduction, it teases our palate with the charred smokiness of pandan-wrapped chicken, a custard-soft mackerel otak, deliciously crisp prawn fritters, scrumptious skewers of grilled pork, and a punchy savoury mackerel dip with cucumber.

 
The Mieng Kam (RM18.90) arrives neatly composed instead of leaving diners to assemble their own. Each betel leaf parcel unleashes a well-balanced profusion of sweet, savoury, and herbal notes. Calibrated with a dab of house-made caramelised shrimp paste, we relish the appetiser’s delicately flavourful depth.

Also on-point are the moreish Crispy Prawn Donuts (RM24.90). Bite into one and you'd find the exterior shatters lightly, giving way to a springy, well-seasoned prawn filling that induces repeat servings.

Soups are treated with much deserved patience. The bright and clean Clear Tom Yum Seafood Soup (RM49.90) delights with its finely tuned acidity, while the Coconut Chicken Soup with Galangal (RM27.90) exudes a softer, more rounded profile.

Touting a culinary team focused on the importance of balance stemming from the use of house-made pastes - ground fresh from herbs and spices - they form the backbone of winsome dishes like the rich and creamy Khao Soi with chicken (RM22.90) or beef (RM28.90) and the pleasant, lingering sharpness of Tangy Pork Belly & Morning Glory Curry (RM29.90). 

Familiar and rare specialities beckon too. Comforting mainstays include house-made Pure Mackerel Thai Fish Cakes (RM18.90) and Pomelo Salad with Signature Taan Thai Dressing (RM23.90) whilst fiery trail-blazers of Spicy Isaan Thai Beef Salad and Southern Thai Minced Chicken Dry Curry (RM20.90) should please chilli heat-seeking fiends.

Equally compelling is the seabass selection. Edging ahead is the Deep Fried Seabass in Spicy & Sour Curry (RM64.90), thanks to the addition of fluffy cha om omelette that soaks up the sauce nicely. Its counterpart, dressed in a vibrant Thai herb and fruit dressing, is lighter but no less engaging.

For those who appreciate greens with character, the Kai Cha-Om (RM19.90) leaves an indelible impression thanks to its unmistakable acacia aroma in omelette form, while the Stir-fried Melinjo with Egg (RM22.90) offers an agreeable bitter counterpoint.

 
Pork dishes are adroitly handled. The Spicy Isaan-style Grilled Pork Neck Salad (RM32.90) carries a gentle smokiness, the Pad Kra Pow Moo Sap (RM23.90) is punchy without being harsh, and the Braised Pork Knuckle (RM32.90) leans into comforting, familiar flavours.

 
Street food staple like Pad See Ew (RM21.90) is given due respect. The flat rice noodles flaunts whiffs of wok hei - that elusive breath of the wok lending heady flavoursome depth to the soy-slicked fried noodles.

Desserts are straightforward but well-judged. Tub Tim Krob (RM14.90) refreshes with its cool sweetness and textural contrast, while Mango Sticky Rice (RM16.90) closes the meal on a comforting note. In Kuala Lumpur’s heat, the invigorating Tom Yum Cooler (RM15.90) and Pandan Cooler with Basil Seeds (RM8.90) provide welcome relief.

Taan Thai is not about theatrics but about clarity of flavour, respect for ingredients, and cooking that's grounded in heart and experience rather than excess. And in today’s dining landscape, that makes Taan Thai worth returning to.

 
For more info and reservations at Taan Thai, call tel: 011-6547 1811. Address: Lot B-25, B1 Floor, Sunway Velocity Mall, Lingkaran SV, Kuala Lumpur.

CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE EATS AT CALIA

Inspired by the original concept that made waves in Melbourne, Calia has carved out a niche for itself as a modern and stylish Japanese dining spot where good food meets laid-back café vibes.

The casual space is bright with splashes of green and large picture windows looking out towards the bustling city skyline. It draws a steady crowd for its sushi bowls, comforting ramen and inventive beverages.

Creativity rules the drinks list featuring vibrantly colourful and winsome tasting tipples. The creamy sweet Taro Strawberry Latte (RM17) channels a liquid dessert while the delightful Magic Mango Smoothie (RM23) and slightly quirky Blueberry & Sweet Potato Milkshake (RM23) go down smoothly.

 
Healthier thirst-quenchers range from bright and aromatic Lychee & Lemongrass Fruit Tea (RM18) to the toasty Hojicha Fruit Tea (RM18) with diced fruits. Cool down humid afternoons with Easy Summer (RM16) — a mix of cucumber, lime and mint or gravitate towards Matcha Strawberry (RM23) for its alluring balance of fruity sweetness and grassy bitterness.

The dangerously snackable Ko Ebi (RM18), crispy whole small prawns served with yuzu mayo, is a surefire crowd-pleaser and will instantly disappear once it hits the table.

 
Salads go beyond the usual side-dish territory here. Our favourite is Soft Shell Crab Salad with Avocado (RM41) consisting of fried soft shell crab chunks tossed with tosaka (multi-colour crunchy seaweed). We enjoy the artful blend of different textures, pulled together with goma (sesame) dressing.

More contemporary in spirit, the Kale Salad with Bara Bara (RM44) pairs kale with marinated raw fish cubes for added richness. Cherry tomatoes, pink peppercorns and Japanese Caesar dressing complete the eye-catching and tasty ensemble.

Rice bowls are also given prominence. A fine example is Salmon Mentaiko Don (RM46) which has grilled salmon with creamy cod roe sauce covering sushi rice; the dish’s richness enhanced by briny ikura and pickles.

Salmon Tataki Engawa Don (RM88), a sublime pairing of marinated engawa (flounder fin) with scorched salmon slices, amps up the luxe factor. Some kizami wasabi (finely chopped fresh wasabi stems and roots marinated in soy sauce) cuts through the fatty fish nicely.

Also holding its own is the rich and hearty Salmon & Avocado Don (RM48). The scrumptious offering combines fresh salmon cubes marinated in a savoury sauce placed atop sushi rice, complemented by diced creamy avocado and a silky onsen egg.

Sushi rolls lean towards generous and satisfying. The standout creation of Engawa Maki (RM48) features lightly torched flounder fin, egg, cucumber and crabstick rolled with sushi rice and a dab of yuzu mayo, while the Unagi Maki (RM43) entices with sweet-savoury rice rolled with grilled eel, truffle egg, takuan (pickled radish), cucumber and avocado. More grilled eel brushed with sweet eel sauce lends the offering a decidedly luscious finish.

Crispy soft shell crab, avocado and cucumber rolled inside seaweed-wrapped sushi rice then finished with tempura oba (battered shisho leaf) makes the Soft Shell Crab Maki (RM33) a ‘must try’ option.

Comforting with a touch of whimsy, you’d have a field day sampling the Bear Garden Shabu Shabu (RM68). The collagen-rich chicken broth presented as a cute bear-shaped block comes surrounded by assorted vegetables and Japanese meatballs. Chicken slices (+RM10), tiger prawns (+RM15) or Wagyu beef slices (+RM38) can be added according to your preference.

                                                         
Rustic with flavourful depth, the Gyusuji Nikomi (RM38) — a mix of braised beef stomach, tendon and daikon scores for its pleasantly soulful, slightly gelatinous broth.

 
Noodle lovers have several notable options to explore. Food snobs may find instant affinity with Uni Truffle Inaniwa Don (RM126) which has delicate hand-stretched udon slicked with truffle oil, crowned with sea urchin and ikura.

Flavour fiends will discover Ebi Ramen (RM56) – a Japanese take on prawn noodles with sizeable freshwater prawns and springy ramen in a deeply flavoured shrimp broth worth diving into.

Another distinctive choice is Charcoal Truffle Collagen Ramen (RM38); a tempting partnership of sous vide chicken and striking black noodles in a collagen-rich chicken soup.

Those craving meat can opt for the Aussie Full Blood Wagyu Sirloin MB8-9 (RM288), served with yuzu-laced potato salad and garden greens and nuts.

In keeping with the Japanese theme, crowd-pleasers such as Matcha Lava Cake (RM33) and Warabi Mochi (RM28) are highlighted. The former hides a molten green tea centre beneath a spongy chocolate cake crowned with matcha ice cream whilst the latter proffers a more traditional approach with soft, jelly-like cubes dusted in roasted soybean powder and drizzled with dark sugar syrup.

The Black Sesame Burnt Cheesecake (RM21) brings nutty depth to the Basque-style favourite. As a refreshing finale, Yokan Anmitsu (RM28) comprising red bean jelly, agar-agar, red bean mash, seasonal fruits and matcha ice cream, is just ideal to cap off your visit on a lightly sweet note.

All in, Calia balances Japanese flavours with modern café sensibilities. Whether it’s for a quick bite, a stopover for dessert, or simply a friendly catch-up over drinks, Calia has found great resonance with the young and hip crowd as well as seasoned food lovers.

For reservations at Calia Pavilion KL, visit this link: https://inline.app/booking/calia. Address: Lot 6.11, Level 6, Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur