A STABLE OF CNY SPECIALS BY THE ORIENTAL GROUP

A playful yet auspicious centrepiece – a horse head-shaped ceramic pot by Color King – cradling the Takeaway Poon Choi steals the limelight at The Oriental Group’s recent Chinese New Year preview.

 
Priced at RM688 inclusive of the charming keepsake pot, this festive indulgence requires a minimum three-hour pre-order. Lift the lid and you’ll find a layered bounty to level up your family reunion meal.

 
Whole five-head abalone, sea cucumber, fish maw and dried scallops anchor the poon choi with deep umami accents. Dig deeper to uncover delectable chunks of free-range chicken, roast duck, roast pork, prawn balls and squid.

 
Rustic and comforting treasures: dried oysters, fatt choi (black sea moss), lingzhi mushrooms, yam, Chinese cabbage and gluten complete the picture — each ingredient chosen not just for symbolism, but for how it absorbs and enriches the broth. Collectively, the poon choi emerges as a tasty communal dish.

 
No CNY table is complete without loh hei, and diners are spoilt for choice with seven variations of Yee Sang. From Crispy Fish Skin (Medium RM118, Large RM158) and Soft Shell Crab (M RM138, L RM178) to Salmon & Anchovies or Grilled Iberico Pork Neck (both M RM138, L RM178), each version leans into palate-pleasing textures and flavours.

At the preview, a surf-and-turf pairing of soft shell crab and grilled Iberico pork neck stood out. Crisp, succulent and meaty elements intertwined seamlessly, unified by a house-made,  sweet and tangy plum sauce.

In homage to the Year of the Horse, culinary craftsmanship results in Roast Treasure Duck (RM78 half, RM148 whole), deftly carved and creatively reassembled into a galloping steed. Beyond its visual flourish, the duck impresses with crisp, lacquered skin and juicy flesh. A delicate stuffing of lotus seeds and chestnuts adds soft, nutty contrasts to temper the richness.

 
Equally impressive is the ‘Prancing Year of the Horse’ Farm Chicken (RM168 each). Smoked over fragrant pu-er tea leaves, the free-range chicken is tender and aromatic with the muted tea smoke lending a refined bitterness that showcases chef’s restraint and understanding of balance.

 
My personal favourite has to be the stellar Iberico Golden Pork Cheek (RM88 per portion). Pan-fried until meltingly tender, the pork cheek is coated in subtly sweet, glossy chef’s special sauce (industry speak for house-made saucy recipes). Cubes of Californian honeydew provide a refreshing counterpoint, cutting through the richness with its natural juicy sweetness.

 
Designed to spark joy around the table, the Abundance Claypot Rice (RM188 for four persons) came crowned with sizeable freshwater prawns, fried garlic mince and spring onions. Each grain of rice exudes enticing prawny sweetness and heady aromatics, making the whole pot of rice irresistibly moreish.

 
Traditionalists will appreciate the Evergreen Blooming Cabbage (RM118), a dish symbolising continuous growth and prosperity. Those tender braised pork tendons, soft beancurd sheets and dried scallops wrapped within tender cabbage leaves are deeply satisfying, elevating a humble vegetable dish into an epicurean delight.

 
The Steamed Nian Nian You Yu Soon Hock (seasonal price) also left a lasting impression with its notable garnishing of chopped Chinese black olives, three types of aged radish and preserved vegetables. 

Mildly salty and umami-laden, edged with subtle hints of aged mandarin peel, the condiments enhance the fish’s natural sweetness — a mark of confident Cantonese cooking.

 
To end on a sweet note, the customary Deep-fried Nian Gao with Yam & Sweet Potato makes its appearance. Crisp on the outside while remaining soft and chewy within, the festive treat carries heartfelt wishes for progress and success, appealing equally to the young and the young at heart.

 
The Oriental Group’s Chinese New Year set menus range from RM1,888 to RM9,888 per table of ten. Smaller families and intimate gatherings can opt for Individual Set Menus priced between RM198 and RM598 per person (minimum two persons). Thoughtfully crafted and rich in symbolism, this is a celebratory feast honouring tradition while showcasing culinary finesse.

For reservations and further information, please contact The Oriental Group of Restaurants through the official website: https://www.orientalrestaurants.com.my/
 
 
 

EAT LIKE A VEGETARIAN AT ELEGANT INN HK CUISINE

In conjunction with the Nine Emperor Gods’ Festival, Elegant Inn HK Cuisine (E.I.) will proffer vegetarian cuisine for those who observe a vegetarian diet for the nine-day festival. Restaurateur Jeannette Han and her team have painstakingly created a Unique Vegetarian Set (RM138++ per person, minimum of 2 diners per table) and some a la carte dishes; available from 15 to 23 October.

Having sampled E.I.’s plethora of delicious offerings, I’d happily go vegetarian any day. Nice presentation and great taste are de rigueur here, starting with the platter of appetising Chilled Fresh Chinese Yam Konjac ‘Cherry’ with a centre of sour plum- marinated cherry tomato, a dainty Radish Flaky Puff and E.I. Crispy Vegetarian Rice Roll.

Every item drew our effusive praises as we savoured the chef’s delicate culinary handiwork. FYI, the konjac cherry and airy-light taro-radish puff can be ordered a la carte at RM23.80 per person (min 2 person per order), whilst the silky-smooth E.I. Crispy Vegetarian Rice Roll is RM6.80/pc (min 4 pcs per order).

Sweet and crisp wawasai blossom (miniature napa cabbage) took centrestage in the soup course of E.I. Double Boiled Soup of Murrill Mushroom (a la carte RM29.80 per person). Those earthy mushrooms lent flavourful depth to the salubrious broth, with organic soy beans providing delicate textural interest.

The inventive Fiery Cordyceps Flower Organic Beancurd with Lightly Spicy Cucumber Pickles (RM26.80 per person, min 2 person per order) was memorable for its soft and slightly crumbly texture. We love the discernible zing on our tastebuds as the tofu-cordycep flower mixture was spiked with a little chilli oil.

Presented in a square, chequered board pattern, the visually pleasing Braised Taro, Winter Melon and Hand-made Plant Based Patty with Hong Kong Liu Ma Kee Fermented Beancurd Sauce (RM23.80 per person, min 2 person per order) was a wonder to behold and savour. The masterstroke was the reddish discs of plant-based patty, made from quinoa, chickpeas, red yeast rice and beetroot. They formed an irresistible combination with the powdery soft taro and winter melon cubes, slickly covered by some glossy savoury sauce. 

Just when we thought nothing could outshine that, we encountered the show-stealing Truffle Oil Teriyaki Eggplant Steak with Organic Cabbage Rice (RM23.80 per person, min 2 person per order). Meltingly tender eggplant brushed with housemade teriyaki sauce and scented with truffle oil, the sumptuous ‘steak’ left us spellbound with its uncanny similarity to unagi kabayaki.

Housemade Cashew Nut Cream with Australian Pumpkin (RM19.80 per person) and Golden Banana Osmanthus Water Chestnut Cake (RM4.80/pc, min 4 pcs per order) brought our exquisite vegetarian meal to a sweet finale. The specialities’ ethereal sweetness and delicate textures left us on a heavenly high.

For reservations at Elegant Inn HK Cuisine, call tel: 03-2070 9399. Address: 2.01, 2nd Floor, Podium Block, Menara Hap Seng, Jalan P. Ramlee, Kuala Lumpur.

 

BEST OF BEIJING'S CANTONESE FARE AT TOH YUEN

 

Meet guest chef Vincent Zhang from Hilton Beijing whose mettle in whipping up Beijing's finest Cantonese cuisine takes centrestage at Toh Yuen, Hilton Petaling Jaya from now until 30 April 2017. 

Chef Zhang artfully fuses the traditional and contemporary, resulting in Beijing fare with distinct Cantonese influences. According to the youthful Zhang, Beijing folks enjoy whetting their appetite with a wide assortment of cold appetisers and this is evident from the starters he has selected for us, to appeal to the Malaysian palate.

We were greatly tickled by the show-stealing khou sui ji (口水鸡); its tongue-in-cheek tag means drool-worthy chicken. Indeed, the succulent pieces of Poached Chicken with Spicy Sauce certainly ruled the roost once we had a sampling. 

Smothered in fiery-red chilli oil, the chook's deliciousness was discernible. Also the gritty chilli on top wasn't tongue-searing hot as we had anticipated but faintly smoky-sweet. 

Served on crushed ice, the paper-thin strips of Fruit Juice Infused Bitter Melon Salad proved on-point too. If you balk at eating this bitter vegetable, I urge you to try it. Instead of the usual astringent bitterness, each crunchy strip tasted mildly fruity as the chef has infused the bitter melon strips with guava juice (sometimes apple juice is used).

Taking a leaf from a classic 300 year-old Chinese appetiser recipe, Zhang reinterpreted Marinated Chinese Cabbage with Mustard his way. The 1.5" Chinese cabbage rolls which resembled siew mai dumplings were pliantly soft, zapping the tastebuds with bright mustardy zinginess once we bit into them.

The Jellyfish Flower in Aged Vinegar with Leek and Ginger Dressing served up a flourish of toothsome crunchiness and piquant flavours. We relished every mouthful of this simple, no-frills offering.

Both the Double Boiled Black Chicken Soup with American Ginseng, Goji Berries & Red Dates and 'Surfing' Fine Slices of Whole Live Abalone with Kombu Seaweed in Superior Broth stayed true to the Cantonese ching theem (clear and sweet) approach. Suffice to say, the delicate, unadulterated accents of the two soups warmed our hearts at first sip.

A hodge-podge of aromatics had gone into marinating the cod overnight before it was deftly transformed by Zhang into Beijing Famous Pan Fried Cod with Mustard Mayo. Paired with plump asparagus spears and a smear of palate-prickling wasabi mayo, this fish exuded such winsome panache we swiftly wiped everything clean.

Zhang then raised the bar with Beef Fillet with Golden Garlic Crisps, a signature dish at Hilton Beijing. Laden with enticing aroma and nuance from golden brown confetti of garlic crisps, the meat's scrumptious mouthfeel invariably scored top marks.

Sha jiang or sand ginger (Kaempferia galanga) was integral to the chef's marinade for the delectable Crispy Roast Chicken with Salt & Pepper, lending muted camphorous peppery hints to the perennial crowd-pleaser. In fact, the crisp skin and juicy, moist flesh made the side dip of chilli sauce almost redundant.

Equal parts of egg and bean milk went into the making of the yellowish Beancurd with Seared Foie Gras, Scallops & Mushroom Sauce. Never mind its amusing Scotch Brite appearance, the eggy beancurd topped with chopped spinach worked like a charm. The beancurd's light sponginess was a match made in culinary heaven with the attendant ingredients.

Ethereally soft and bouncy textures converged with delicately sweet and clear seafood accents in the dish of Prawn Fritters with Asparagus, Pumpkin & Lily Bulbs; an admirable testament of the chef's flair for his craft.

He even presented a Chinese fusion of Taiwan's famed 'three cup' chicken speciality, resulting in Cantonese Stir-fried Chicken with Trio of Sauces. Whilst basil plays an assertive role in the Taiwanese version, the convergence of savoury-sweet-herbaceous nuances was no less voluptuous on the palate. Garlic, ginger and shallot also added a tinge of warm spiciness.

Mindful of our hot, tropical weather, Zhang proffers Hot Green Bean & Mandarin Peel Broth as one of the dessert options. Known for its cooling property, the green bean purée was pleasantly smooth and slightly unctuous.

Another cooling dessert broth which should prove popular is Snow Pear with Red Dates & Sweet White Fungus, served hot or cold. A timeless not too sweet treat that's both nutritious and wholesome after a hearty meal.

Dishes for the Beijing's Finest Cantonese Cuisine by Chef Vincent Zhang are priced from RM35 onwards. 

For reservations, call Toh Yuen, tel: 03-7955 9122 extn. 4073/74 or check www.zestpj.com for more details.