CNY SHOWCASE OF KL’S CHINATOWN BEST HERITAGE FOOD

Speciality dishes and delicacies from 18 of Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown famed restaurants, bakeries and street food vendors take centrestage at the ‘Jom Celebrate Reunion Dinner, Chinatown KL 2025’ initiative this year.

 

Only four tables of 10 persons will be available from 25 January to 16 February (except 29-31 January), to cater for the customary family reunion meal, and subsequently for Chinese New Year dinner from 7 pm onwards nightly.

Scheduled to be held at the original premise of Seong Ying Chai, a ‘lou chiu pai’– an established bakery since 1935 – behind Jalan Sultan, KL, the *festive dinner commences with Golden Pear Yu Sheng from Westlake restaurant as the auspicious curtain-raiser.

 

Assorted ingredients: fried yam strips, colourful pickles, freshly shredded pear and vegetables, pomelo sacs, candied peel, toasted sesame seeds and ground nuts evoked that cherished nostalgic taste, pulled together by a tart-sweetish plum sauce.

Leonard Lee, manager of Seong Ying Chai, informed us ‘ma chao’ chicken is the poultry of choice for Kam Kee’s Hainanese Steamed Kampung Chicken. Served with house concocted chilli and ginger sauces, the scrumptious offering enticed us to return for additional helpings thanks to its bright yellow skin and splendidly tender texture.

A bowl of downhome Fish Paste and Malabar Spinach Soup from Sai Kee left us gushing over its clear broth brimming with handmade fish balls, Malabar spinach and clumps of ‘egg drop’.

A culinary stalwart in Chinatown, Sze Ngan Chye has drawn legions of customers as long as I can recall. Hence it's only befitting Sze Ngan Chye’s Signature Salted Duck is slotted into the menu. Dipped into savoury bean sauce, the duck’s slight gaminess added to its allure.

Topped with freshly chopped coriander, the on-point doneness of Han Kee’s slippery smooth and soft Steamed Fresh Fish (patin) augmented by house-made with soy sauce and aromatic oil, ticked all the right boxes for us.

Prosperity Pork Trotters with Seamoss (fatt choi) from Hong Ngek drew gasps of delight as we eagerly relished the juicy, fall-of-the-bone tender meat smothered in viscous collagen-rich, seamoss-threaded sauce.

Two vegetarian dishes, Stir-fried Lotus Root with Celery from Voila and Vegetarian Kottu Roti from The Lankan brought a balance spin to the meat-centric menu.

The former comprised lightly sauteed lotus root slices with sweet peas, celery, cashews, red and green capsicums; beguiling for its delicately clear flavours.

True to our Malaysian Muhibbah spirit, aromatically spiced kottu roti – a popular Sri Lankan street food staple of chopped roti, vegetables, and spices – lent an unexpectedly welcome contrast to the proceedings.  

Kiew Yee Baru stepped up to the plate with the perennial Cured Meat Claypot Rice: a huge serving of chunky liver and pork waxed sausages, waxed duck atop rice sprinkled with chopped spring onion. Finished with a drizzle of the house mixture of soya sauce, this speciality will surely leave everyone replete.

Finishing the meal on a pleasantly sweet note will be Seong Ying Chai’s classic Almond Tofu Pudding in the famed Air Mata Kuching from Luo Han Guo Longan Dessert. We love how the combo refreshed our palate after the intense riot of flavours.

Liu Bao Aged Tea from Kean Gun Tea Merchants will keep cups filled throughout dinner whilst Cold Brew Tea from Montea in addition to Cranberry Muffins from Aooo will complete the dining experience.

The ‘Jom Celebrate Reunion Dinner’ initiative by Persatuan Rakan Budaya dan Pelancong Kuala Lumpur & Selangor is co-organised by Seong Ying Chai and supported by YB Tuan Fong Kui Lun, MP for Bukit Bintang.

Guests can also purchase a special 8-Treasure Box (RM188 each) consisting of Seong Ying Chai’s Lion Head Gong Zai Bing (baked pastry with pandas lotus paste), TK Lim’s Sliced Meat Jerky, Sweet Potato Ball’s Fried Peanut Dumpling, Ho Yoke Kee’s Lucky Candy, Washington’s Golden Grill Sponge Cake Rusk, Chai Huat Hin’s Dried Persimmon, Machi Popo’s Black Sesame Puff and Fung Wong’s Mini Walnut Cookies.

Priced at RM1,388 nett per table of 10 persons, table reservation for the ‘Jom Celebrate Reunion Dinner, Chinatown KL 2025’ must be made at least 3 days in advance on first-come-first-serve basis via mobile no: 011 1179 9082 or 016 3810 810. 

*Kindly take note necessary changes to the set menu are anticipated with substitutions offered by the 21 participating vendors.

SHOW-STOPPERS OF SHHHBUUULEEE

 “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication” Leonardo da Vinci

Tofu with Soy-cured Egg Yolk, Tomato Water and Herbs (RM22). Drunken Cockles with Rice Wine, Taucu and Mustard Seeds Oil (RM38). Grouper Head Terrine with Chayote, Szechuan Pepper and Chilli Vinaigrette (RM32).

When you encounter such show-stopping house specialities, it dawns on you Shhhbuuuleee isn’t any run-of-the-mill rooftop bar and restaurant. The defyingly simple yet intensely flavour-packed curtain-raisers are mere harbingers of what to expect from this quaint outpost, ‘hidden’ atop RexKL, an old cinema reincarnated into a hip cultural and creative hub.

Upon arriving at RexKL, the hunt for the resto’s ultra-discreet staircase entrance in a mini adventure in itself…hint: it’s within Book Xcess. As I climbed the flights of stairs up to the outpost, I felt like Alice heading into ‘wonderland’.

The interior of Shhhbuuuleee features a seamless integration of the old: RexKL’s original flooring and walls; and the new: extended bar seating, minimalist eclectic elements and retro touches are artfully combined to evoke a casual, laidback atmosphere.

Like those art house flicks produced to appeal to a discerning audience, Chef Mui Kai Quan is the culinary director whose creative force comes from past stints gleaned from Osteria Mozza and Esquina in Singapore, Ledbury in London, Maaemo in Oslo and Sprout in Johor Bahru. While his modern Malaysian fare takes centre stage at ChoCha Foodstore, Mui now intends to shine the spotlight on East Asian fare with his inimitable touches at Shhhbuuuleee.

After that stellar cast of curtain-raisers, good conversations flow smoothly along thanks to the recommended tipple: Shuho Awesome Karakuchi (RM35 per glass, RM280 per bottle) is winsome for its clean, refreshing taste. The chilled saké paired superbly well with the specialities mentioned earlier as well as the appetite-whetting Wagyu Tartare with Pickled Radish & Seaweed Crackers (RM52).

Local produce also takes the limelight when possible. The chef is an earnest supporter and advocate of local farmers and food producers like the Langit Collective, and champions more sustainable eating in the local F&B scene.

Ample proof of the chef’s mantra is evident in the Grilled Peppers with Sesame & Peanut Butter (RM26). Locally grown, the colourful assortment of banana and shishito peppers tossed in sesame and peanut butter tastes delicately sweet and deliciously tender.

The other scene-stealer was Red Glutinous Rice with Sakura Shrimp & Salt-Cured Fish Roe (RM24). We relished every bite of the nutty, slightly sticky home-grown red glutinous rice which has absorbed the rich savouriness of both the shrimps and fish roe.

Sweet with a fair amount of smooth, fine flesh, the Tai Head with Bamboo Fungi Broth and Puffed Rice (RM88) easily reeled us in. The accompanying broth – chicken stock and bamboo pith simmered for hours – alone was so chockful of flavours, we lapped up every precious drop.  A chilled shochu, Satsumamura Aka Shochu (RM35 per shot) enhanced our enjoyment of the said dish.

Drawing inspiration from his Chinese roots, Mui uses fu yue (fermented beancurd) to conjure up the homely Braised Tripe & Tendon with Fu Yu Broth, Daikon, Lotus Root & Tang Oh (RM48). For the uninitiated, the savoury Chinese condiment tastes similar to cheese; lending depth and complexity to the various ingredients which soaked up all the wonderful flavours of the braising broth.

After being bedazzled by a slew of palate-pleasing blockbusters, subsequent contenders such as Fried Sole with Shiso and Salted Mustard Green (RM42), as well as Sautéed Kale and Wood Ear Mushroom with Kombu Butter (RM22) had to fight harder to gain attention.

Perked up with a relish of chopped salted mustard green (ham choi) and fresh beefsteak leaves serving as an edible wrap for the panko-crusted fish, the former was akin to fish and chips gone East and ‘fit’.

Healthy eating won’t be topping your agenda when you’re at Shhhbuuleee but the kale and wood ear mushroom combo makes an appearance in the menu for good measure. Although the dish was a tad underwhelming, we dutifully polished off every morsel due to its super-nutritious content.

Mui admits he’s still working on dessert and the menu changes based on the availability of the ingredients and produce. So be prepared for more culinary sequels to savour at Shhhbuuleee.

For reservations at Shhhbuuuleee, call: 012-6120786 or https://letsumai.com/widget/shhhbuuuleee. Address: 3^rd Floor, RexKL, 80, Jalan Sultan, Kuala Lumpur.