NEW CHEF DEBUTS AT MAISON FRANÇAISE

Once upon a time, in October 2011, Maison Française entered Klang Valley’s intensely competitive restaurant scene. Defying the odds, it succeeded in establishing a foothold as a fine French dining outpost. 

Tucked away in a quiet cul-de-sac amidst existing posh condos and upcoming skyscrapers within the Golden Triangle, the restaurant is now the domain of Brittany-born Chef Florent Lescouezec. His culinary creations should bestow fresh shine to Maison's menu; be it a la carte, a 4-course Menu Gourmand (RM280++ per person) or a 6-course Menu Degustation (RM390++ per person).

 

Although ghastly construction goings-on nearby aren’t complementary to Maison’s elegant, monochromatic ambience, those unseemly sights can be kept at bay once the dining space’s drapes are drawn.   

Chef Florent’s exquisite opener of Larnaudie Duck Foie Gras Custard with Smoked Eel, Green Apple Emulsion and Artichoke (RM90++) should serve as an apt distraction. The feather-light custard is made from foie gras de canard (duck liver) from Jean Larnaudie, a French foie gras specialist with a long history dating back to 1950. A fleeting hint of smokiness was discernible in mouthfuls of the lush custard; its cloud-like texture enlivened by a frothy green apple emulsion.

Quinoa — once a humble, poor man’s grain now food of choice for health-conscious urbanites — made its presence felt in the subsequent offering of Gamberro Rosso Tartare with Kristal caviar, crustecean oil and quinoa taboule (RM110++). The collusion of tastes and textures: from the natural sweetness of the red prawn to the coy nuttiness of the quinoa grains was delicate, almost playful on the palate.

A key staple since Maison’s opened its doors, the Signature Lobster Bisque (RM75++) remained something to write home about. The flavour-rich broth’s unabashed umami profile simply reinforced its long-standing appeal.

Escargot fans rejoice! Snail-pace is the way to savour the sumptuous French Organic Farm Snails in Fricassée, Garlic Butter and Porcini Mushrooms (RM90++). Sautéed in garlic butter and earthy porcini, the deliciously tender morsels came encased in a crisp golden brown breaded golf ball-size ‘shell’.

Like the proverbial ‘the devil’s in the details’ saying, we were reminded why a seemingly simple appetiser such as House Smoked Duck Breast, Shredded Confit of Duck Leg, 64.5 degrees Egg & Buttered Kale (RM80++) command such a high price. Before it hit the table, the chef and his team had put in hours of painstaking labour and sometimes, days of prep work in their quest to get the various components ready. To say the speciality was quackingly good won’t do it justice as the yummilicious ducky duet took to the sous vide egg like...well, ducks to water.

New mains in the spotlight ranged from extravagant Butter Poached Lobster (RM320++), French-aged Sirloin On The Grill and Slow-cooked Rump of Lamb (RM140++) to more rustic Butter Poached Wild French Cod (RM140++) and Poultry Breast Blanquette (RM160++).

The chef’s culinary artistry and technical competence came to the fore in ensuring the lobster creation looked good and tasted even better. Never mind its pared-down preso; put it down to the French respect for letting quality ingredients shine minus the frills.

Likewise, the medium, aged beef held its own; a pivotal lead touched by wisps of mesquite wood on the grill. With a convivial coterie of anchovy, horseradish, celeriac puree and onion tart in attendance, it left our hearts and tummies thoroughly smitten.

Also deserving of applause was the lamb. Slow cooked to blush pink doneness, its tenderness provided nice contrasting textural interplay with the soft eggplant confit and buttered broad beans.

Personally, I was reeled in by the Butter Poached Wild French Cod, Pea and Basil Velouté, Sauce Vierge (RM140++). Sauce vierge or virgin sauce in French is a blend of olive oil, lemon juice, chopped basil and tomato – presumably a trick of the trade to lighten the classical velouté, a mother sauce. In this instance, the resultant liquidy mixture made quite a splash when sampled with the fab fish.

Musky aroma of truffle juice whetted our appetite for the Poultry Breast Blanquette (RM160++). Akin to a ‘white-out’ ragout (French stew), this speciality also comprised truffle white pudding sausage and black trumpet mushrooms injecting their tasteful characters into the equation.

Happily ever-afters to wrap up your dining foray to Maison should cover the alluring

Valrhona Dark Chocolate & Pistachio Lava Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream (RM40++). Thumbs up to the green, nutty and bittersweet slant.

Chocoholics may find sweet succour in the delightful Chocolate Pear, Quince Paste, Jivara and Dulcey Chocolate Mousse (RM40++). A dreamy platter of distinctive Valrhona chocolates: Jivara 40% caramel-vanilla notes with a touch of malt meets Dulcey 32% blond chocolate with buttery and toasty notes, accented by a hint of salt, guaranteed to lift choc-loving diners to new highs.

Prefer returning to basics? Chef Florent tricked up Classic Tatin Apple Pie with a scoop of Bourbon Vanilla Cream Cheese, a grown-up, boozy uptake of old-school apple pie a la mode.

For reservations at Maison Francaise, call tel: 03 2144 1474. The homey colonial bungalow-based dining enclave is located at 5, Jalan Changkat Kia Peng, Kuala Lumpur.

LE GOÛTER FRENCH AFTERNOON TEA

Afternoon tea may have started with the 7th Duchess of Bedford but oh là là, le goûter is  tea-time in France. Word has it that a sweet snack like biscuits or chocolate in bread is de rigueur after school to keep the young ones going till dinner. I found this blog offers a good explanation of le goûter: https://www.loumessugo.com/en/blog/entry/what-is-gouter-it-s-tea-time-kids

As expected, Hotel Stripes Kuala Lumpur - as an Autograph Collection property, bestows its own inimitable take on Le Goûter Afternoon Tea. Served in the warmly welcoming, French-style Brasserie 25, you'd be charmed by its exposed rust-red brick arcades, mid-century copper sputnik chandeliers and dark wood floors.

Once we were seated, a chilled welcome drink known as Paradise Pink set a refreshing pace for our maiden French afternoon tea experience. I enjoyed sipping the subtly sweet, pleasant guava juice and pineapple juice concoction mixed with grenadine syrup while the Brasserie 25 team swanned about, discreetly going about their tasks.

Presented in a boxy copper warmer, the curtain-raiser featured a triple serving of Mini Salmon Quiche, Sardine Curry Puffs, Deep-fried Samosas and Arancini Balls. We partook the delicious savoury snacks with freshly brewed cups of Cameronian Gold Blend tea. Coffee is also available for those who yearn for a caffeine fix.

Both the quiche and deep-fried risotto balls covered in breadcrumbs were rich and hearty with varying textures and lushness to tickle the tastebuds. Although we left the curry puffs and samosas for consumption later, the pastries remained flaky and crisp without any trace of residual greasiness. Fillings of both the local pastries were generous and flavourful too.

Two triangular pieces of toasty Grilled Cheese Sandwich made a welcome addition to the line-up. It reminded me of carefree childhood days when the simpler things in life like sandwiches for tea was a treasured treat.

True to its French roots, Le Goûter boasts a comprehensive showcase of sweet temptations. After all, the art of patisserie is much respected so afternoon tea guests here are plied with a heart-stopping selection of delicate French dessert. Presented with white gloved service and proffered on a silver tray, I daresay the visually pleasing and sublime creations would please even the infamous Marie Antoinette who immortalised the "let them eat cake" quote.

My favourite is the Lemon Meringue Tart followed by the delicate Raspberry Macaron. The crunchy Almond Biscotti and Orange Madeleine also hit the spot when paired with cups of milky tea.

The charming frontliners were adept at persuading us to sample the extensive array. We readily succumbed to their gentle coaxing and indulged in dainty portions of the heavenly Almond & Cherry Clafoutis, Langues de Chat - a feather-light, buttery biscuit shaped like a cat's tongue, White Chocolate Truffle Cake and Almond Financier.

Le Goûter Afternoon Tea is served daily from 3 pm - 6pm @ RM70 per person. We were told it has been a runaway success since its introduction especially on weekends so it's advisable to reserve ahead should you wish to experience it.

For reservations, please call Brasserie 25, tel: 03-2038 0000. Address: Hotel Stripes KL - Autograph Collection, 25 Jalan Kamunting, Kuala Lumpur. Website: http://stripeskl.com