REAL FLAVOURS OF MEXICO RULE

 

Meet the real enchilada when you dine at Flavors Of Mexico Asia. Chef Ivan Chavarria Hernandez will tell you the rolled fried black tortillas (coloured with charcoal powder) stuffed with mozzarella known as Flautas (RM18) are the authentic Mexican ones.

Accompanied by salsa roja, pico de gallo (chopped tomatoes, onion and serrano pepper with salt, lime juice and cilantro) and sliced radish, the moreish speciality is one of the many delicious things to enjoy at his restaurant.

 

Opened some months ago, Hernandez is keen to introduce his native food to local diners albeit with subtle Asian flavours incorporated.

After trying Jarritos, Mexican bottled soda, we were surprised by the moderate sweetness. Available in seven flavours, I like the Tamarind flavour best followed by Fruit Punch and Lime.

Coctel de Camaron (RM26) comprising diced prawns, avocado cubes and onion in smoky chipotle sauce relished with crunchy corn chips proved incredibly addictive. Add a dab of the chef’s house-made chilli oil for a zingy boost.

Unlike the Tex-Mex version, the Nachos here came laden with chopped tomatoes, pickled onion with pico de gallo, beans, creamed avocado, sour cream, jalapenos and fresh coriander. Cheese sauce is merely drizzled on as it’s not supposed to overwhelm everything on the plate.

A hint of Japanese influence was apparent in the Ceviche (RM24) with Chips once we tasted the tangy-savoury lime-cured tilapia in seafood broth. Mixed with diced avocado, tomatoes and onion alongside fresh herbs, the corn chips disappeared in a twinkling.

“Vendors selling paper cups of corn chips down by the beach are a common sight back home. That’s why I use the same plastic plates lined with ‘newsprint’ paper, to evoke the same vibes here,” said Hernandez.

Ardent taco lovers like us had a field day feasting on five types of Tacos (RM10-RM16 per 4-inch piece). Piled with marinated and braised lamb with fresh herbs, topped with cured onion and guacamole on the tissue-thin house-made corn tortilla, the scrumptious Birria Lamb Taco brought us up to gastro heaven.

Surprisingly, the vegetarian-friendly Hongos Taco scored well too thanks to the cohesive combination of blanched spinach, black bean mash, sautéed mushroom and vegetarian sour cream.

Equally rave-worthy is Taco de Pollo Al Pastor featuring marinated chicken with red chillies, achiote (Mexican paste of annatto seeds, cumin, pepper, coriander, oregano, cloves and garlic) and pineapple relish. 

Tasty but more ho-hum options in my book are Taco de Camaron and Taco Baja. The first had tempura prawn with chipotle mayo and pineapple relish whilst the second consisted of tempura fish with pico de gallo, coleslaw and sour cream.

Hernandez also told us churros was Spanish and Portuguese iteration of Chinese yu tiao (deep-fried crullers). “They just added eggs and sugar to the original recipe. In Mexico, we serve it with chocolate or cajeta, caramel sauce spiked with rum but the alcohol is omitted at this restaurant.”

Lightly crunchy on the outside and custardy on the inside, the ridged tubular Churros Con Cajeta (RM17) hit our sweet spot. We recommend chasing it with Horchata (RM10), chilled rice milk served with a dusting of cocoa powder too.

Now you know where to go for truly Mexican fare with Asian touches. There's also a small selection of Mexican treats and groceries for aspiring home cooks to attempt replicating the Mexican dishes on their own.

For reservations at FLAVORS OF MEXICO ASIA, contact via DM @flavorsofmexico.asia (Instagram). Address: Ground Floor, Hartamas Shopping Centre,Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: Tues-Sun 12noon-8.30pm

LET’S DO THE SWISS AT CHALET

You know the Chalet Pop Up has returned to EQ Kuala Lumpur when you detect the distinctly earthy-nutty cheesy smell of Raclette Valaisanne in the air. Also present will be original Chalet Restaurant Managers, Azlan Alias and Amerjit Singh Lakha Singh. Both stole the show with their nimble footwork as they demonstrated the vaunted sabayon routine along with younger team members at the recent media preview.

From 29 July to 17 August, get ready to savour classic Swiss-Continental specialities at the upcoming Chalet Pop-up. Once the go-to fine-dining outpost from 1973 until the original Equatorial Kuala Lumpur Hotel closed for redevelopment, Chalet will once again relive its halcyon days by serving its nostalgic culinary gems to loyalists and guests.

We experienced the restaurant’s theatrical table-side presentation with the chef on duty scraping off the melted Swiss raclette cheese on the spot. Served with new potatoes, pickled cornichons and pearl onions, we sighed with satisfaction upon tasting the nutty and creamy Raclette Valaisanne (RM118++). Its nice milky aftertaste and lush richness was balanced by the pickles and baby potatoes.

Cheese lovers mustn’t pass up on Fondue Au Fromage (RM288++ for 2 persons). Scented with truffle, the bubbling pot of savoury Swiss cheese also known as fondue promises an interactive dining experience. Dipping bread cubes into the melted cheese infused with wine makes for a novel, fun-filled experience for the uninitiated.

We also sampled the popular appetiser of Salade De L’Empire Romain (RM78++), romaine lettuce salad flecked with shaved Parmesan cheese, croutons and a sprinkling of diced air-dried beef. Light and refreshing.

Those tasting portions did the trick to whet our appetite, priming us for Crème De Champignons Sauvage (RM68++), Chalet’s signature creamy wild mushroom soup. Served in a crusty and warm bread roll, the salubrious broth brimming with rustic woodsy broth beguiled us to lap everything up.

We also relished every bite of the sumptuous Émincé de Veau à la Zurichoise (RM208++), Zurich-style sliced veal in creamy mushroom sauce. Paired with a generous portion of crusty rosti potatoes to absorb all those rich flavours, we were transported to seventh culinary heaven.

Personally for me, the day's show-stealer was the supremely tender Duck Breast à l’Orange (RM188++). I was completely smitten by the excellent, full-bodied sauce bigarade – a classic Provence (bitter)orange sauce – matched the meltingly tender slices of duck breast. The rich flavours made resisting the dauphine potatoes (baked sliced potatoes with cream and garlic) and pine seed-broccolini impossible.

 

Amerjit wrapped up the lunch sess with his blazing Crêpes Suzette (RM68++), artfully flambéed pancakes in orange juice and Grand Marnier liqueur. The tissue-thin pancakes drenched in the slightly bittersweet boozy-citrusy sauce and complemented by vanilla ice cream was a most befitting finale.

Reservations are now open for the special Chalet Pop-up restaurant at EQKL. For reservations and enquiries, WhatsApp +60 12 278 9239 or call tel: 03 2789 7722 or email: dineateqkl@kul.equatorial.com.

 

GOOD LUCK, GREAT HEALTH AND EXTRA YUMMINESS WITH AN VIET 'S YEE SANG

 
Crunchy lotus seeds play a key role in Ăn Viet's Festive Yee Sang salad. According to the Chinese saying, “吃了 Ăn Viet 香脆 莲子鱼生, 包你捞了好运莲莲”, which means whoever eats Ăn Viet’s Yee Sang will enjoy continuous good luck throughout the year.

Besides the inclusion of lotus seeds for nutty taste and extra crunch, we like the fact only 100% fresh, natural vegetables and fruits are used to compose the colourful salad.

Shredded radish, carrot and young mango form the central base. Little tubs of Vietnamese radish and carrot pickles, sweet corn kernels, fresh mint leaves, shredded lettuce, roasted peanuts, snow pear chunks, cherry tomatoes and promegranate seeds are arranged inside the platter. This is to ensure minimum mess and for easy assembly prior to serving. Fresh lime wedges, smoked salmon and a house-made citrusy sauce act as the crowning glory to complete it.

For takeaway, Ăn Viet’s Crunchy Lotus Seeds Yee Sang comes in a nifty platter with a transparent lid. The outer wraparound packaging is designed for easy hand-carry.

To enjoy, simply squeeze the lime juice over the Yee Sang then place the smoked salmon on top. Then pour the citrusy sauce all over the salad and invite everyone to toss and stir the Yee Sang accompanied by declarations of ‘loh hei’ or ‘loh sang’ and other auspicious sayings.

We give two thumbs up to Ăn Viet’s Crunchy Lotus Seeds Yee Sang as the overall taste is delightfully refreshing. All the various components blend harmoniously; the layers of textures perked up by the tantalising citrusy sauce.

You can purchase Ăn Viet’s Yee Sang from 20 January – 24 February 2024. Large portion for 4- 6 persons is priced at RM68.88++ and Small for 2-3 persons at RM28.88++.

For more information, please contact any of the Ăn Viet restaurants as per the details given above.

 

 

 

DIM SUM LUNCH BY APPOINTMENT ONLY AT LE SENSE

Le Sense is one of the few restaurants in the Klang Valley where dim sum is revered as an art form. Restaurateur Chris Chew is so discerning when it comes to the serving of these delicate morsels that patrons of Le Sense who wish to sample the restaurant’s lunch-tasting menu (starting from RM138++ per person) must make reservations at least two days in advance.

Before you scoff and think it's nonsensical, the request is more pragmatic in reality. The culinary team needs time to source and buy the necessary ingredients and to prepare the specialities for your lunch at Le Sense.

Understated and elegant, the interior of Le Sense is accentuated with inlaid wood panels, beautiful oversized Chinese paintings, modern pendant lights, and strategically placed side tables -- setting a befitting stage to further enhance your dining experience.

In line with Chew’s exacting standards, every dim sum item served bears testament to the resident chef’s skills and techniques, as well as his meticulous attention to detail. Market-fresh, premium ingredients such as amaebi (sweet shrimp) and kurobuta (pork from Japanese black pig from the Berkshire breed), coupled with artfully made ‘produce’ such as dumpling skins and house sauces result in some second-to-none creations.

A fine example of this is the curtain-raiser of Truffled Dumpling: a steamed charcoal-skin Xiaolongbao brushed with edible gold, placed atop a wafer-thin slice of yuba.

Bite into the dumpling’s delicate pleated folds and you'd get a delicate whiff of the musky scent of truffle. Take care as you attempt to slurp up the deliciously sweet broth encased within - you won't want to waste a single drop of that precious liquid. For the final flourish, savour the juicy kurobuta filling with the tender dumpling skin.

The bar of excellence rises further with Kagoshima Pork Dumpling & Fish Maw Bouillon. Stuffed with delectable Kagoshima pork, the divine dumpling is nestled amidst slippery smooth braised fish maw and the sweetest-tasting fish bouillon. An ensemble made in culinary heaven.

The pace rolls nicely along with Yuba Skin Roulade and Collagen Demi-Glace – a delightfully crispy fried Japanese beancurd skin roll stuffed with chopped amaebi and Kurobuta. 

Rich, glossy pork bone sauce and crunchy snow peas ensure this offering underscore deliciously distinct contrasts, taste and texture-wise from the earlier speciality.

Marinated in a sake-shoyu concoction then cooked to meltingly tender perfection, the Spanish Iberian Jowl with Seasonal Organic Vegetables cuts quite a swathe with us. 

The enticing umami accent blooms on our palate the longer we chew on the meat. Even the supporting cast of green mustard stems, lotus root, ginkgo, wood fungus and dried scallop threads, exudes ample appeal of their own.

Dried sakura ebi and fried onion atop the Daikon Radish cake (which has jamon and Kurobuta incorporated in it) lend beguiling depth of flavours to this familiar homey treat. Little pieces of pickled green mustard that’s mutedly spicy-sweet help to offset its richness. 

IMHO, the Crystal Prawn Wonton with Smoked Dover Sole and Egg Noodles is possibly the closest replication of a good Hong Kong-style wantan meen in Klang Valley.

Made with a mixture of sweet shrimp and sea prawn, and smoked Dover sole for the elusive combination of sweetness and desirable mouthfeel, the prawn wonton is scrumptious.

Made in-house and cooked to the right toothsome texture, the fine egg noodles in a nice clear broth and blanched greens are so soul-satisfying good you'd wish the serving is somewhat a tad bigger.

To finish, the savoury dessert of Yam Croquette is a show-stopper. Golden brown with a lacy-wispy exterior, the powdery-soft Japanese mountain yam mash is filled with savoury-sweet Iberico char siu.

A crisp, buttery and mildly sweet Egg Tart serves as the finale to the lunch-tasting menu. You can’t fault this on-point classic creation to wrap up your meal.

Diners are welcome to bring their own wine for their culinary sojourn at Le Sense as there won’t be any corkage charged. For bespoke dinner menus, prices will be slightly higher so kindly call the restaurant for more information.

For reservations, call Le Sense Restaurant, hp no: 018-268 2333. Address: 8, Jalan SS 20/10 Damansara Kim, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.