CHEF KAZUO TAKIZAWA’S NEW GRAND MENU AT ZIPANGU

 

Chef Kazuo Takizawa’s new Grand Menu at Zipangu reads like a love letter to the seasons of Japan, gently kissed with the flavours of Malaysia.

Thoughtfully composed like a haiku, the meal begins with a whisper — a cool, textured tumble of Salmon and Avocado, slick with salted kelp and wasabi soy sauce. It arrives atop a crisp rice cracker lined with fried nori, a poetic symphony of flavour and crunch.

The richness of salmon gives way to the clean zingy note of wasabi, while the umaminess of kelp hums softly in the background like a distant tide. It’s the kind of dish that makes you pause between bites, out of reverence.

Then comes a heartwarming bowl of Chicken and Vegetable Miso Soup that feels like slipping into a cherished coat in the heart of winter. The broth is gentle, faintly smoky. The chicken—salt-marinated, grilled, then eased into the miso—lends depth whilst young corn, lotus root, and shimeji mushrooms tumble through the comforting broth. Takizawa-san calls it “home-style” and it resonates with us.

 

Spicy Salmon Zanmai Roll arrives next, lush with layer upon layer of salmon: raw, cooked, and jewelled with pearly roe. Cucumber, surimi and egg make this sushi roll indulgent without being boastful, the touch of sriracha leaving a gentle glow rather than a blaze. A sip of cold Junmai Daiginjo sake draws the flavours together—clean and fleeting.

The signature mains emerge as a quartet of restrained brilliance. There is the familiar Black Cod Teriyaki and Japanese White Radish yet the fried cod, a nod to Malaysian tastes, holds greater allure thanks to the daikon steeped in Takizawa’s own blend of dashi and teriyaki sauce. A dish updated for its audience without compromising its heritage.

The Grilled Bluefin Tuna Collar is a study in devotion and sustainability. Sourced from a humongous 80kg fish, the collar—often overlooked—is treated with the kind of care and respect reserve for something sacred. 

Marinated in sake, doubanjiang (spicy bean sauce), ginger and secret herbs, then grilled, the rich and meaty tuna collar flesh tastes faintly of the ocean’s depths: hints of minerality mingled with whispers of oyster and brine, soothed by the gentle sweetness of capsicum in a lush, complex sauce.

For me, the conversation-stopper has to be the A5 Japanese Halal Omi Wagyu Tenderloin. Cooked simply, perfectly with a dash of salt—seared until just charred outside, but pink and yielding within.

 
Each bite is warm velvet. On the side, there are fried garlic chips, mustard, wasabi, and a Japanese steak sauce—unnecessary but delightful if variation is called for. Grilled vegetables lend a gentle counterpoint. This is the kind of breath-taking dish that leaves you in awed silence at such masterful culinary perfection.

 
Finally, the crescendo of heat: a Spicy Chicken Curry unlike any you’ll find in Japan. It has swagger, warmth that builds and lingers. Takizawa uses a 30-year-old recipe, refined and reworked with Malaysian heat. The chicken, braised with leek, is tender; the spices—paprika, ginger, garlic—meld into a bold, unapologetic chorus.

Sweetness to soften the ending is Yuzu Sorbet. Icy and fragrant, the yuzu sings—sharp, floral, clean with a kind of silken poise renders by a sticky, almost translucent starch syrup woven through it for unexpected elegance.

In the hands of Chef Kazuo Takizawa, every plate from Zipangu’s Grand Menu tells a story—seasonal and soulful. Each creation soothes as much as it stirs.

For reservations at Zipangu, call tel: 03-2032 2388. Address: Level 1, Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Sultan Ismail, KL. https://www.facebook.com/shangrilaKL
 
 

REAL FLAVOURS OF MEXICO RULE

 

Meet the real enchilada when you dine at Flavors Of Mexico Asia. Chef Ivan Chavarria Hernandez will tell you the rolled fried black tortillas (coloured with charcoal powder) stuffed with mozzarella known as Flautas (RM18) are the authentic Mexican ones.

Accompanied by salsa roja, pico de gallo (chopped tomatoes, onion and serrano pepper with salt, lime juice and cilantro) and sliced radish, the moreish speciality is one of the many delicious things to enjoy at his restaurant.

 

Opened some months ago, Hernandez is keen to introduce his native food to local diners albeit with subtle Asian flavours incorporated.

After trying Jarritos, Mexican bottled soda, we were surprised by the moderate sweetness. Available in seven flavours, I like the Tamarind flavour best followed by Fruit Punch and Lime.

Coctel de Camaron (RM26) comprising diced prawns, avocado cubes and onion in smoky chipotle sauce relished with crunchy corn chips proved incredibly addictive. Add a dab of the chef’s house-made chilli oil for a zingy boost.

Unlike the Tex-Mex version, the Nachos here came laden with chopped tomatoes, pickled onion with pico de gallo, beans, creamed avocado, sour cream, jalapenos and fresh coriander. Cheese sauce is merely drizzled on as it’s not supposed to overwhelm everything on the plate.

A hint of Japanese influence was apparent in the Ceviche (RM24) with Chips once we tasted the tangy-savoury lime-cured tilapia in seafood broth. Mixed with diced avocado, tomatoes and onion alongside fresh herbs, the corn chips disappeared in a twinkling.

“Vendors selling paper cups of corn chips down by the beach are a common sight back home. That’s why I use the same plastic plates lined with ‘newsprint’ paper, to evoke the same vibes here,” said Hernandez.

Ardent taco lovers like us had a field day feasting on five types of Tacos (RM10-RM16 per 4-inch piece). Piled with marinated and braised lamb with fresh herbs, topped with cured onion and guacamole on the tissue-thin house-made corn tortilla, the scrumptious Birria Lamb Taco brought us up to gastro heaven.

Surprisingly, the vegetarian-friendly Hongos Taco scored well too thanks to the cohesive combination of blanched spinach, black bean mash, sautéed mushroom and vegetarian sour cream.

Equally rave-worthy is Taco de Pollo Al Pastor featuring marinated chicken with red chillies, achiote (Mexican paste of annatto seeds, cumin, pepper, coriander, oregano, cloves and garlic) and pineapple relish. 

Tasty but more ho-hum options in my book are Taco de Camaron and Taco Baja. The first had tempura prawn with chipotle mayo and pineapple relish whilst the second consisted of tempura fish with pico de gallo, coleslaw and sour cream.

Hernandez also told us churros was Spanish and Portuguese iteration of Chinese yu tiao (deep-fried crullers). “They just added eggs and sugar to the original recipe. In Mexico, we serve it with chocolate or cajeta, caramel sauce spiked with rum but the alcohol is omitted at this restaurant.”

Lightly crunchy on the outside and custardy on the inside, the ridged tubular Churros Con Cajeta (RM17) hit our sweet spot. We recommend chasing it with Horchata (RM10), chilled rice milk served with a dusting of cocoa powder too.

Now you know where to go for truly Mexican fare with Asian touches. There's also a small selection of Mexican treats and groceries for aspiring home cooks to attempt replicating the Mexican dishes on their own.

For reservations at FLAVORS OF MEXICO ASIA, contact via DM @flavorsofmexico.asia (Instagram). Address: Ground Floor, Hartamas Shopping Centre,Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: Tues-Sun 12noon-8.30pm

LET’S DO THE SWISS AT CHALET

You know the Chalet Pop Up has returned to EQ Kuala Lumpur when you detect the distinctly earthy-nutty cheesy smell of Raclette Valaisanne in the air. Also present will be original Chalet Restaurant Managers, Azlan Alias and Amerjit Singh Lakha Singh. Both stole the show with their nimble footwork as they demonstrated the vaunted sabayon routine along with younger team members at the recent media preview.

From 29 July to 17 August, get ready to savour classic Swiss-Continental specialities at the upcoming Chalet Pop-up. Once the go-to fine-dining outpost from 1973 until the original Equatorial Kuala Lumpur Hotel closed for redevelopment, Chalet will once again relive its halcyon days by serving its nostalgic culinary gems to loyalists and guests.

We experienced the restaurant’s theatrical table-side presentation with the chef on duty scraping off the melted Swiss raclette cheese on the spot. Served with new potatoes, pickled cornichons and pearl onions, we sighed with satisfaction upon tasting the nutty and creamy Raclette Valaisanne (RM118++). Its nice milky aftertaste and lush richness was balanced by the pickles and baby potatoes.

Cheese lovers mustn’t pass up on Fondue Au Fromage (RM288++ for 2 persons). Scented with truffle, the bubbling pot of savoury Swiss cheese also known as fondue promises an interactive dining experience. Dipping bread cubes into the melted cheese infused with wine makes for a novel, fun-filled experience for the uninitiated.

We also sampled the popular appetiser of Salade De L’Empire Romain (RM78++), romaine lettuce salad flecked with shaved Parmesan cheese, croutons and a sprinkling of diced air-dried beef. Light and refreshing.

Those tasting portions did the trick to whet our appetite, priming us for Crème De Champignons Sauvage (RM68++), Chalet’s signature creamy wild mushroom soup. Served in a crusty and warm bread roll, the salubrious broth brimming with rustic woodsy broth beguiled us to lap everything up.

We also relished every bite of the sumptuous Émincé de Veau à la Zurichoise (RM208++), Zurich-style sliced veal in creamy mushroom sauce. Paired with a generous portion of crusty rosti potatoes to absorb all those rich flavours, we were transported to seventh culinary heaven.

Personally for me, the day's show-stealer was the supremely tender Duck Breast à l’Orange (RM188++). I was completely smitten by the excellent, full-bodied sauce bigarade – a classic Provence (bitter)orange sauce – matched the meltingly tender slices of duck breast. The rich flavours made resisting the dauphine potatoes (baked sliced potatoes with cream and garlic) and pine seed-broccolini impossible.

 

Amerjit wrapped up the lunch sess with his blazing Crêpes Suzette (RM68++), artfully flambéed pancakes in orange juice and Grand Marnier liqueur. The tissue-thin pancakes drenched in the slightly bittersweet boozy-citrusy sauce and complemented by vanilla ice cream was a most befitting finale.

Reservations are now open for the special Chalet Pop-up restaurant at EQKL. For reservations and enquiries, WhatsApp +60 12 278 9239 or call tel: 03 2789 7722 or email: dineateqkl@kul.equatorial.com.