HERALDING HAIRY CRAB SEASON AT ELEGANT INN

Although unfathomable, there are people who prefer a ‘hands free’ way of savouring hairy crabs. Elegant Inn HK Cuisine’s the 6-course Hairy Crab Roe and Abalone Set (RM368++ per person, min 2 diners per table) will fulfill this desire with aplomb.

The indulgent set will allow you to do what Hong Kongers - well-heeled or otherwise - fervently enjoy i.e. yue chi lou farn, literally dousing shark’s fin with rice. It's a popular euphemism for enjoying in the high life. The set menu’s penultimate course of Braised Hairy Crab Roe with Golden Coin Shark’s Fin with ‘Lou’ Rice is guaranteed to be a conversation-stopper.

But I digress. Our dining party experienced first-hand, both Elegant Inn’s two Hairy Crab Set menus. For the Hairy Crab Roe and Abalone Set, a triumvirate of sublime appetisers: a shot glass of smooth Steamed Silky Egg with Hairy Crab Roe, Golden Curry Sesame Prawn Roll, and E.I. Crispy Vegetarian Rice Roll started our party rolling with a big bang.

Every spoonful of that crab roe laden steamed egg sent shivers of delight down our spine. The crisp prawn roll tantalised with its British-style aromatic, sweetish curried filling. E.I.’s perennial smooth rice roll with its crisp centre, for textural and flavour contrasts rounded up this platter.  

Sampling the collagen-rich Claypot Soup of Shark’s Fin Cartilage, Pork Rib Soup with Fish Maw and Bamboo Pith, we couldn't get enough of the broth's flavourful depth and rich umaminess.

I have yet to meet anyone who’d turn down a sumptuous dish of Braised 7-head South Africa Abalone. At E.I. you know you're getting the good stuff thanks to the lady proprietress' exacting standards.

Complemented by slices of Pan Seared Spanish Iberico Pork and Handmade Fish Curd in Abalone Sauce, the premium shellfish's natural marine-sweetness and melt-in-the-mouth tenderness was simply orgasmic. The rich-tasting Iberico pork was a masterstroke as the pork not only soaked in the complex sauce but also amplified the nuances whilst the puffy fish curd was a delicate work of deft culinary skills.

Stronger, heartier flavours prevailed in the Kaffir Lime Garlic Fried Spring Chicken. Fleeting whiffs and accent of the fresh citrusy lime in the fried spring chicken was discernible. Crispy garlic bits brought pops of faint sweet pungency to each mouthful.

Words aren't adequate to describe that superbly sublime serving of Braised Hairy Crab Roe with Golden Coin Shark’s Fin with ‘Lou’ Rice. That fluffy, lightly fried rice with slivers of egg stirred with lustrous hairy crab roe and shark's fin-imbued broth will leave you on otherworldly gastronomic heaven.

A flaky light Bird’s Nest Egg Tartlet accompanied by a bowl of nourishing dessert broth of Double Boiled Snow Pear with Chuanbei Citrus Peel left us happily satiated.

To satisfy true-blue hairy crab fans, E.I. pulls out the stops with a 6-course Hairy Crab Set (RM268++ per person, min of 2 per table).

The opening salvo of Porcini Smoked Farm Egg (add French Goose Liver for RM28) gave the Happy Start platter a slightly different, more solid taste dimension. Along with Golden Curry Sesame Prawn Roll and E.I. Crispy Vegetarian Rice Roll, the harmonious trio acted as nice precursors of the other goodies in store.

Providing tonic for the soul is Claypot Soup of Shark’s Fin Cartilage and Pork Rib Soup with Fried Fish Maw and Bamboo Pith. Smoother textural interest can be amped up with 'far kaw' or Fish Maw at an additional RM30.

It was such a luxury having a team of service experts to crack and prepare the leading ‘star’, a 5-tael Steamed Live Hairy Crab for us to savour. Nowadays, it seems the amount of roe in these crabs are down to luck of the draw.

 

Sometimes male crabs (look for a bell-shape pattern on its underbelly) have more of that creamy yellow-orange roe. The roe of female crabs tends to appear reddish-orange, in firmer clumps but no less delectable. We were told in China hairy crabs are available year-long but they're at their prime eating quality between late September and early November.

After the E.I. team efficiently handled the requisite prep work, we feasted like royalty, feasting with ease: merely scooping up the roe and picking the bits of sweet flesh from the legs and claws to sample. Hot cups of warming Bentong ginger tea helped to balance the cooling effects of eating those salubrious crabs.

Our tastebuds readily welcomed the robust dimension of the crispy Kaffir Lime Garlic Fried Spring Chicken. Most certainly a welcome change after the earlier, more delicate spectrum of texture and flavour. 

Braised Hot & Sour Handmade Noodles with a whole Crunchy Oyster awakened our tastebuds to vividly piquant accents.

From the delightfully silky, toothsome noodle strands to the tantalising tart-tangy and slightly punchy broth, we had nothing but high praises for the dish. The splendid finishing touch was a whole Japanese oyster, enticingly sheathed in ethereal crisp-crunchy batter.

 

Double Boiled Snow Pear with Chuanbei Citrus Peel and Osmanthus Sea Coconut Pumpkin Pudding rounded off our meal on a splendid albeit mutedly sweet note.

 

Fans of hairy crabs can feast to their hearts’ content at Elegant Inn HK Cuisine where two set menus are available until early November 2023.

For reservations at Elegant Inn HK Cuisine, call tel: 03-2070 9399. Address: 2.01, 2nd Floor, Podium Block, Menara Hap Seng, Jalan P. Ramlee, Kuala Lumpur.

PIG OUT AT SNOUT

Snout is proudly proclaimed as the Home of the Signature T-bone Pork Chop and no visit to the restaurant is complete if you don’t sample the juicy and tender T-bone Pork Chop (RM33). Heaped atop the grilled pork chop is delicious al dente classic egg carbonara. 

Studded with bacon bits and Parmesan cheese, the whole serving is a sight to behold – and once you sample the scrumptious the pork chop, you’d be besotted enough to plan a follow-up visit to Snout just for it.

Sourced from locally bred pigs, the pork chop’s inherent sweet meatiness makes it a memorable palate-pleaser. For an additional RM5, a single serving of refreshing Orange Salad (orange segments with fresh greens and onion tossed in Snout's sweet-sour dressing) or Japanese Potato Salad (mashed potato with strips of Aussie carrot, Japanese cucumber, onion and egg in creamy Kewpie mayo) complements it. Together with the pasta, it’s an on-point hearty, soul-satisfying meal.

Snout is run by Doris Ch’ng and Rosalia Chua, a passionate food-loving duo who used to be colleagues at Nestle. Opened in August 2018, the pork-centric restaurant has a nice cheery and sassy ‘feel’ about it.

Brightly painted canvases of frolicking pigs adorn baby blue walls, potted plants displayed on stools and atop tables bestow a sense of serenity, whilst stacks of books, as well as little plushies, lend homey touches to the interior.

 

Fried Prawn Rolls (RM15) and Scotch egg-style Fried Quail Eggs (RM9) are two great conversation starters to get your meal rolling at Snout. The former is Snout’s yummy take on lor bak – beancurd skin rolls stuffed with minced prawn, pork, and vegetables deep-fried until crispy, then cut into coin-size discs.

Slightly smaller than a tennis ball, the Scotch quail eggs will turn your dining party into a ball. Coated in crispy panko, and encased within tasty minced pork, marinated chives, cabbage, spring onion, and garlic, the crowd-pleasing appetiser hit the spot for us.

 

My favourite dish of the day is Grilled Marbled Iberico Pork Collar (RM442, 1300gm). This notable show-stopper has to be pre-ordered ahead of time and is suitable for dining parties of 3-4 persons according to Doris.

Served with a side dish of Japanese Potato Salad, this juicy, tender, and delicious slab of pork is best savoured on its own. Like any good prime steak, it can hold its own without the need for sauces or toppings.

To sustain the restaurant during the prolonged lockdown period, Snout created a Limited Travel Menu Series, highlighting familiar comfort food from different cities as the restaurant’s way of taking their customers on a food tour.

Kolo Mee (RM13), a popular noodle dish with house-made 'char siew' (minus the red colouring), fish balls and minced pork is chosen to represent Kuching in the menu. According to Doris, this is one of their sought-after, freezer-friendly offerings. “It’s popular among our customers who have it delivered to them. Many store the dish for consumption later. They just reheat by steaming or microwaving it.”

Indeed, the noodles are deliciously flavourful thanks to the assemblage of minced pork, ‘char siew’, and crispy pork lard dices. A pair of QQ fish balls lends some springy toothsome contrast to the overall meaty and soft noodle textures.

Singletons and youngsters hankering for homely fare may find ample succour in the comforting dish of Braised Pork Belly (RM18). Served with steamed rice, the tender chunks of pork belly braised in soya sauce and spices come with a braised egg, peanuts and vegetable of the day.

Bacon Popcorn Balls (RM8 – 3 balls) is the partners’ attempt to bring customers further afield via their Limited Travel Menu Series. Rosalia said “It’s our tribute to the American movie culture; drenching buttery popcorn with caramel then lacing it with bacon bits to create a fun treat. The oversized popcorn balls were meant to ease the boredom of being stuck at home during the lockdown.”     

The popcorn balls were rather fun albeit messy to eat. My only wish is for more bacon bits to temper the caramel sweetness.

One unexpected dessert find is Ornee (RM18) – the traditional Teochew treat is such a rarity but if you’re partial to yam this should go down exceptionally well. Snout’s silky-smooth version comprises rich yam paste, layered in fragrant lard and shallot oil. We ate it warm during our lunch but I love it chilled - it's sublime!

Finish with a flourish by savouring a slice of Snout’s Traditional French Orange Cake (RM8 per slice, RM65 per 900g loaf). Crowned with candied orange slices, the buttery orange cake is like a burst of sunshine: brimming with big, bright orange flavour and zesty sweetness on the palate.

For reservations and more information, call SNOUT, tel: 03 - 7732 8871. Address: 22A-1, Jalan PJU 8/5E, Bandar Damansara Perdana, Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Business hours: Tue – Sun 1130 am - 3 pm, 530 pm - 9 pm. Closed on Mon but open on request for families with special kids, click https://wa.me/c/601111613881