BEST OF PERU AT FELIZ

 

Do you know chifa is the Peruvian version of fried rice? Heavily influenced by the Chinese, a gastronomy article published in Journal of Ethnic Food reveals chifa originated from the Chinese words: “chi” (eat) and “farn” (rice). The term emerged around the 1930s in Lima when Peruvians overheard Chinese restaurateurs cajoled potential customers to patronise their eateries to chi farn. 

Egg chaufa or fried rice with ceviche, egg, sesame oil, spring onion and beansprouts is Peruvians’ carb of choice along with French fries, to complement Pollo A La Brasa (RM118), roasted chicken which has been marinated 24 hours with garlic and cumin.

To amp up the flavour, they rely on aji de la casa (house-made chilli), chimichurri (a blend of flatleaf parsley, coriander, garlic, salt, chilli flakes, vinegar and olive oil) and tartara (tartar sauce).

 

This Peruvian speciality is one of the many offerings rustle up by Chef Franco Aldana at Feliz, Klang Valley’s first and only Peruvian restaurant at Avenue K.

Feliz, meaning happy in Spanish, flaunts an open rooftop bar surrounded by gleaming skyscrapers. A tiered water feature and a long, shaded patio decked with potted greenery complete the al fresco section.

Within the entrance, a narrow walkway flanked by multiple shelves of greenery leads into a tastefully decorated dining space. Peru’s vibrant cultural heritage is evoked through a jade-green glass tile wall, a circular wine glass chandelier, colourful Peruvian tassel and macrame wall hangings, and turquoise-toned furnishings.

Our culinary journey to Peru began with chicha morada, a boiled purple corn and pineapple peel drink. It tastes like blackcurrant juice, infused with cinnamon and cloves.

The opening salvo of Ceviche Limeno (RM38) is Peru’s most famous dish. Although it seems simple, Aldana said a good ceviche must be perfectly balanced; from the use of leche de tigre (tiger’s milk), a bright, salty-spicy marinade of aji panca, lime, salt, ginger, garlic and coriander, to the combination of white corn, sweet potato and canchita (fried corn kernels).

We like how the leche de tigre’s punchy sourness melded cohesively with the white corn and sweet potato’s delicate sweetness. Strands of sea grapes lent pops of savouriness as we relished the slippery succulence of marinated fish. Canchita and crispy fried plantain injected crunchiness to the well-balanced dish.

Raw, sashimi-style tuna slices accompanied by a sauce of cold potato pureé, vinegar, leche de tigre, cucumber and mango juices form the chef’s Tiradito De Tuna (RM145). Topped with chalaquita de mango, Peruvian salsa of tiny mango, red onion and cherry tomato dices, the riot of delicate textures and assertive flavours tantalised our tastebuds.

Feliz’s signature Arroz Con Mariscos (RM119), was faintly similar to a perfectly cooked risotto albeit dialled up with aji amarillo (hot yellow chilli), assorted seafood and cilantro.

We also enjoyed meltingly tender and piquantly flavoured Anticuchos De Lomo Fino (RM158), skewers of marinated and grilled tenderloin accompanied by white corn, sliced fried potatoes and chimichurri.

Light and sweet Alfajores (RM27), two buttery biscuits sandwiched between creamy dulce de leche (caramelised condensed milk) wrap up our Peruvian party.

 

The milk-soaked sponge cake topped with Chantilly cream, dulce de leche and fruits making up Tres Leches (RM45) was winsome whilst the Petit Foie Selection (RM45) comprising mini glasses of tres leches, tocino del cielo (creamy caramel flan) and alfajores paves an introductory pathway to Peruvian desserts.

For reservations at Feliz, contact: 011-1771 7742. Address: L4-05, LEVEL 4, Avenue K, 156, Jln Ampang, Kuala Lumpur

 

MORE THAN NORMAL PUB GRUB AT THE BELL & CROWN

 

Sizzling Mutton Tava Biryani (RM35) is not your average pub grub when you step into The Bell & Crown. According to owner Dato’ Vicky A., he included it in as he prefers sitting down to a hot meal as a regular pub goer. When he took over The Bell & Crown, he ensured biryani – one of his favourite dishes – is listed in the menu.

“Our mutton biryani is fast gaining popularity here,” said Dato’ Vicky. “It’s prepared Mumbai-style. First, the mutton is pressure-cooked then roasted slightly. We stir-fry the mutton with ghee, onion and freshly ground Indian spices in an iron skillet until aromatic. Everything is subsequently added to basmati rice and cooked in claypot.”

Served with thick, house-made yoghurt, the spice-scented biryani made our mouths water as we stirred up the fluffy rice. The heady aroma and mildly gamey taste of tender mutton and deeply flavourful rice proved immensely satisfying.

Earlier, our evening started with a bang thanks to some Pigs in Blanket (RM25). The cocktail pork sausages wrapped in bacon were moreish; a splendid complement for my Classic Margarita (RM27).

The shaken concoction of triple sec, tequila and lime was rather potent but I made it last with measured sips throughout the evening. The Bell & Crown serves three glasses of Classic Cocktails at RM78+ thus enabling its patrons to indulge in cocktail hour without breaking the bank.

A good selection of light nibbles and heftier mains, comprising classic Brit pub grub and more Asian-inspired fare is available to keep hunger pangs at bay. We were pleasantly surprised to find Penang Loh Bak (RM22) on the menu. Although the deep-fried rolls came a tad over-fried, we were relieved to find the five spice marinated pork, yam and carrots wrapped in beancurd sheets up to scratch taste-wise.

Another notable appetiser is Chicken 65 (RM22), cooked Mumbai-style. Marinated overnight with ground Indian spices, the bite-size chicken cubes are lightly battered and fried with onion, curry leaves and dried chillies until crisp.

Every morsel we tried titillated our tastebuds with a cornucopia of bright, bold spice accents; an inducement to eat and drink more amidst convivial merriment.

However, the unexpected show-stealer turned out to be the cheesy Chicken Tikka Pizza (RM20). We thoroughly enjoyed partaking the elongated pizza with delectable chunks of tandoori chicken and generous topping of melted mozzarella, parmesan and cheddar.

Those hankering for Bangers, Mash & Beans (RM36) should be happy to know The Bell & Crown proffers a choice of beef, pork, lamb & cranberry or chicken sausages alongside lumpy mashed potatoes and Heinz baked beans. The hearty serving passed muster and was par for the course IMHO.

Décor-wise, the frontage flaunts charming vintage Tudor-style windows and monochrome checkerboard floors. The warmly-lit interior incorporates a long bar, plenty of dark wood trims, cosy booth seats and whitewashed walls adorned with sepia-tone prints and antique lamps.

For reservations at The Bell & Crown, contact tel: 016 964 0786. Address: 34, Lorong Rahim Kajai 14, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur.

KYOMO KOHI BREWS UP DELISH EATS

 

“Kyomo” in Japanese means today or daily, the essence behind Kyomo Kohi, the minimalist Japanese-inspired café at New Ocean Fine Food City. Channelling Japanese artisan café vibes, Kyomo Kohi takes pride in serving artisanal coffee drinks, creative beverages, and artfully prepared East meets West dishes as well as tempting cakes and pastries as its drawcards.

We felt at ease instantly within the bright, cheery and clean-lined interior. Coupled with friendly service and the stellar selection of good eats, we were charmed by this trendy outpost.

Finger-thick, lightly battered Japanese Sweet Potato (RM18) stirred our interest prior to our mains’ arrival. Drizzled with Thai brown sugar syrup, the yummy sweet potato fingerlings severely tested our restraint from gobbling up the whole lot in one go.

Slaking our thirst with chilled Cantaloupe Yuzu (RM17) and the newer Matcha Strawberry Latte and Tiramisu Latte, we found fresh appeal from the first drink’s citrusy yuzu accent while the other beverages’ fruity and creamy coffee appeal kept our animated conversation flowing.

Gyukatsu Don (RM65), headlined by a panko-crusted, 110-g Aussie wagyu cutlet emerged as the day’s favourite ‘must try’ dish. Done medium rare, the slab of tender beef accompanied by Japanese rice, miso soup, fresh mixed salad, house-made curry sauce and potato salad was not only great value but also delectable to boot.

Coming in a close second was the soulful Salmon Ochazuke Yuzu Spice (RM30). We love relishing the comforting succour of the hot seasoned dashi, poured over grilled salmon fillet and Japanese rice. Ikura (salmon roe) and bonito furikake (flavoured rice puffs and seaweed flakes) bestowed bursts of briny and savoury flavours.

 
Thick, rich and lightly spiced Japanese curry with well-balanced savoury-sweet accents complemented crispy fried chicken to create a most delicious Chicken Karaage Curry Rice (RM28). Along with a runny soft-boiled egg and sweet corn kernels, it was one of the better versions we had sampled. Even though I’m not a fan of Japanese curry, I found this likeable.

Go for breakfast (7am to 3pm) and you’d find a notable start to the day with spongy-light Buttermilk Pancakes (RM20). Served with seasonal fruits, berry coulis, Chantilly cream and maple syrup, the pancakes were deftly made and went like a dream with the various accompaniments.

 
Playful sweet-savoury nuances teased our tastebuds when we dug into the Brioche Blossom French Toast (RM26). Topped with supple slices of smoked salmon, fresh rocket salad, a medley of fresh fruits, grated cheese and maple syrup, the thick-cut toast came up to mark.

We left no scone unturned and succumbed to the delightful Lemon Scone (RM9). Buttery with just the right amount of crumbly and airy lightness, we enjoyed smearing it with clotted cream and lemon curd.

Kyomo Kohi is definitely a noteworthy outpost for coffee and good food in our books.

For reservations at Kyomo Kohi, please call tel: 03-8408 8021. Address: L1 - 01, Level 1, New Ocean World Fine Food City, 15, Jalan 19/1, Seksyen 19, Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 11am to 8pm; Sat, Sun & public holidays 7am to 8pm