MALAY FLAVOURS LEND SHINE AT MADAM LEE

Chef de Cuisine Rizal Sobry has joined hands with Executive Chef Irwan Sutan Chairul to extend the Peranakan palette at Madam Lee Nyonya Private Dining — incorporating timeless Malay recipes with depth, fire and fragrance intact.

The introduction of Malay culinary classics feels more like a homecoming, bringing quiet comfort to the menu. Nestled amidst the grounds of Palm Garden Hotel Putrajaya, the restaurant's recessed shelves decked with Peranakan ceramics segue to a soaring high ceiling space and a grand staircase leading to an airy dining space.

Warm and welcoming, we dip and sip on Singgang Seafood Soup (RM30), a coconut milk-based broth cradling prawns, squid, clams, fish and tender vegetables. Modest in appearance but rich in spirit, the creamy and subtly tangy soup leans in with whispers of lemongrass and sweet brine of the sea.

 

Pie Tie (RM28), those crisp little top hats of jicama, mushroom, egg and prawn; Loh Bak (RM25), deep-fried beancurd sheet rolls of meat, vegetables and spices; and Otak-otak (RM25), spiced fish mousse served chilled are ubiquitous mainstays to tickle the tastebuds.

Soft and yielding smoked beef in a golden pool of turmeric and coconut milk—thick, perfumed and almost pastoral in its richness makes the Daging Salai Masak Lemak (RM48) notable. You taste the smokiness first, then the heat of chilli and spices followed by the grassy-citrusy scent of turmeric leaf. It clings to the beef, then lingers long after you’ve set your spoon down.

If that was a murmur, the Paru Sambal Cili Api (RM45) was a roar. Slightly chewy beef lung slices, swimming in a biting-hot bird’s eye chilli sambal, is not a dish for the faint-hearted. But die-hard fans will love it for its fierce honesty.

Take the edge off with Ikan Masak Kicap (RM58), trad fried red snapper doused in a bewitchingly dark sweet-savoury soy glaze. You’d delight in the mellow, gently spiced sauce; sweet at the edges—perfect to go with plain white rice.

 
More amicable options, easy on the tastebuds include golden-skinned Ayam Goreng Berempah (RM32), its spice coating adding appeal to the chook; Chap Chye (RM28), the homey mixed vegetable milieu that tastes like something your Nyonya grandmother might dish up; and a robust, deeply comforting Nyonya Fried Rice.

 
Dessert is whimsical and tropical—Sago Cha Cha with Taro Ice Cream (RM18), creamy and cool on the tongue; and rich yet sticky Pineapple Pulut Hitam Crème Brûlée (RM26), with just the right crackle of burnt sugar on top.

 

At Madam Lee, the spices may flare, the sauces may cling, but there’s always grace in the telling and old flavours bloom anew.
 
For reservations, call Madam Lee Nyonya Private Dining, tel:03-8943 2233 or visit https://www.madamleenyonya.com/
Address: Palm Garden Hotel, Putrajaya, IOI Resort City, Putrajaya

SIZZLING GOOD TIME AT HANAM BBQ

 

Pork cuts cooked at tableside. Unlimited refills of kimchi, lettuce and marinated wild garlic leaves. Fluffy steamed egg and Korean tofu stew on the side. As far as first impressions go, Hanam BBQ knocked it out of the park from the get-go.

My belated birthday treat – an unforgettable, slap-up Korean bbq lunch – comprised a superb good-value set at RM175++. It comprised 360g pork belly, 180g collar butt and 150g jowl meat; ample enough to leave our party of four replete.

We also ordered Soft Tofu Stew (RM30++) and Steamed Egg with Flying Fish Roe (RM20++) in addition to a serving of rice (RM6++). 

Hats off to the service team for taking such meticulous care in grilling the three different pork cuts. It was nice not having to lift a finger.

Not only did they patiently grilled everything in an orderly manner, they even stacked up the pieces of cooked pork nicely. The tilted grill pan had a spout to drain off excess oil; that flowed into a paper cup.

When the kimchi was being cooked, we dug into the fluffy, piping hot steamed egg. So delicious! The two types of kimchi were so appetising we asked for repeat servings.

Two signature offerings stood out at Hanam BBQ: the tangy, refreshing condiment of Calamansabi (calamansi with wasabi) and tangy-sweet Myeonginamul (marinated wild garlic leaves) lent a distinctive dimension to the bbq pork.

All the meaty richness were offset by the pleasantly piquant Soft Tofu Stew. A moderately spicy broth made with gochujang and gochugaru, it had a hodge-podge of sliced cucumber, soft beancurd, oyster mushroom sliced leek and onion, and an egg to give textural substance.

It was fun, slurping up the stew as we took our time savouring the bbq pork pieces wrapped in fresh lettuce. Raw garlic slices, house gochuchang paste, calamansabi and sesame seed-flecked salt dip along with more cabbage as well as chives and lettuce kimchi enabled us to create multiple variations of our little lettuce and pork wraps.

 

Overall, it was a splendid experience as the restaurant’s efficient ventilation system ensured we didn’t leave imbued with bbq fumes.

HANAM BBQ, B-019, The Starling Mall, 6, Jalan SS21/37, Damansara Utama, Petaling Jaya Selangor

CREATIVITY RULES AT NEWLY REFRESHED TOH YUEN

Familiar yet fresh sums up the newly renovated Toh Yuen restaurant. Modern elegance with contemporary touches blends artfully with traditional accents of red and understated decorative elements to create a serene, sophisticated dining space.

 

With a seating capacity of 150 and four private dining rooms, Toh Yuen is ideal for casual and special outings.

Among the culinary gems awaiting diners is Roasted Peking Silver Hill London Duck (RM168 nett for half duck, RM268 nett whole duck). The Wagyu of ducks are meticulously roasted using a customised oven then carved tableside. Wrapped in delicate pancakes, the meltingly tender duck is accompanied by fresh cucumber strips, spring onions, and rich hoisin sauce; a delectable treat you’re unlikely to forget.

The remaining duck meat is then transformed into delicious Braised Shredded Duck with Ee Fu Noodle. Truffle oil adds a luxe touch to the silky noodles. Crisp cornets stuffed with duck meat and other dishes are available from the restaurant too.

For an overview of its dim sum repertoire, Toh Yuen offers a Dim Sum Lunch Set at RM99 nett per person. The culinary team puts a lot of efforts into creating exquisite morsels such as the goldfish-shape Steamed Cod Dumpling with Chicken Broth (so good I was tempted to lick the plate clean), Steamed Siew Mai with Hokkaido Scallop (an on-point showcase of bouncy-tender textures), and delicate Steamed Spinach Dumpling with Shrimp and Wolfberries (love the translucent skin yielding to a clean vegetal nuance touched with the fleeting sweetness of shrimp and wolfberries).

One of the show-stealers to gain two thumbs up is Baked Chicken Tart with Abalone. The flaky pastry encasing a mildly sweet-savoury chicken filling topped with mini abalone is memorable for its resemblance to char siu sou.

Even the soup course is levelled up with a mini pumpkin filled with Braised Crab Meat Broth with Scallop and Asparagus. Delicate flavours aplenty, with subtle crunch of the asparagus and supple-soft diced scallop bestowing textural interest.

Should you decide to go à la carte, we highly recommend sampling Toh Yuen’s signature offerings. Notable specialities such as Sweet and Sour Diced Chicken with Figs stood out for its enticing sauce and palate-pleasing fried chicken pieces paired with fresh sweet figs, and the supremely tender Stir-Fried Wagyu Beef with Porcini Mushrooms and Trio of Peppercorn.

Sweet with on-point doneness, the Steamed Pomfret with Pickled Red Chillies and Minced Ginger is divine. Kudos to the chef for the tantalising combination of robustly flavoured toppings.

The springy Golden Butter Prawns with Cashew Nuts appears par for the course. I’d wish the chef has given this offering a little twist, just to set it apart from the competition.  

It’s nice to conclude on a high with a distinct Egg Custard Pastry (deliciously flaky and custard-soft filling win every time). Even the Chilled Mango Puree with Sago and Pomelo finds favour with its just-nice sweetness.

Open daily from 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 6.30 pm to 10 pm, reservations at Toh Yuen are highly recommended. 

To book a table or more information, contact Toh Yuen, Hilton Petaling Jaya at tel: 03 7955 9122 or WhatsApp 016 216 0414, or email PETHI_FB@hilton.com, or visit eatdrinkhilton.com.