BEST OF PERU AT FELIZ

 

Do you know chifa is the Peruvian version of fried rice? Heavily influenced by the Chinese, a gastronomy article published in Journal of Ethnic Food reveals chifa originated from the Chinese words: “chi” (eat) and “farn” (rice). The term emerged around the 1930s in Lima when Peruvians overheard Chinese restaurateurs cajoled potential customers to patronise their eateries to chi farn. 

Egg chaufa or fried rice with ceviche, egg, sesame oil, spring onion and beansprouts is Peruvians’ carb of choice along with French fries, to complement Pollo A La Brasa (RM118), roasted chicken which has been marinated 24 hours with garlic and cumin.

To amp up the flavour, they rely on aji de la casa (house-made chilli), chimichurri (a blend of flatleaf parsley, coriander, garlic, salt, chilli flakes, vinegar and olive oil) and tartara (tartar sauce).

 

This Peruvian speciality is one of the many offerings rustle up by Chef Franco Aldana at Feliz, Klang Valley’s first and only Peruvian restaurant at Avenue K.

Feliz, meaning happy in Spanish, flaunts an open rooftop bar surrounded by gleaming skyscrapers. A tiered water feature and a long, shaded patio decked with potted greenery complete the al fresco section.

Within the entrance, a narrow walkway flanked by multiple shelves of greenery leads into a tastefully decorated dining space. Peru’s vibrant cultural heritage is evoked through a jade-green glass tile wall, a circular wine glass chandelier, colourful Peruvian tassel and macrame wall hangings, and turquoise-toned furnishings.

Our culinary journey to Peru began with chicha morada, a boiled purple corn and pineapple peel drink. It tastes like blackcurrant juice, infused with cinnamon and cloves.

The opening salvo of Ceviche Limeno (RM38) is Peru’s most famous dish. Although it seems simple, Aldana said a good ceviche must be perfectly balanced; from the use of leche de tigre (tiger’s milk), a bright, salty-spicy marinade of aji panca, lime, salt, ginger, garlic and coriander, to the combination of white corn, sweet potato and canchita (fried corn kernels).

We like how the leche de tigre’s punchy sourness melded cohesively with the white corn and sweet potato’s delicate sweetness. Strands of sea grapes lent pops of savouriness as we relished the slippery succulence of marinated fish. Canchita and crispy fried plantain injected crunchiness to the well-balanced dish.

Raw, sashimi-style tuna slices accompanied by a sauce of cold potato pureé, vinegar, leche de tigre, cucumber and mango juices form the chef’s Tiradito De Tuna (RM145). Topped with chalaquita de mango, Peruvian salsa of tiny mango, red onion and cherry tomato dices, the riot of delicate textures and assertive flavours tantalised our tastebuds.

Feliz’s signature Arroz Con Mariscos (RM119), was faintly similar to a perfectly cooked risotto albeit dialled up with aji amarillo (hot yellow chilli), assorted seafood and cilantro.

We also enjoyed meltingly tender and piquantly flavoured Anticuchos De Lomo Fino (RM158), skewers of marinated and grilled tenderloin accompanied by white corn, sliced fried potatoes and chimichurri.

Light and sweet Alfajores (RM27), two buttery biscuits sandwiched between creamy dulce de leche (caramelised condensed milk) wrap up our Peruvian party.

 

The milk-soaked sponge cake topped with Chantilly cream, dulce de leche and fruits making up Tres Leches (RM45) was winsome whilst the Petit Foie Selection (RM45) comprising mini glasses of tres leches, tocino del cielo (creamy caramel flan) and alfajores paves an introductory pathway to Peruvian desserts.

For reservations at Feliz, contact: 011-1771 7742. Address: L4-05, LEVEL 4, Avenue K, 156, Jln Ampang, Kuala Lumpur

 

REAL FLAVOURS OF MEXICO RULE

 

Meet the real enchilada when you dine at Flavors Of Mexico Asia. Chef Ivan Chavarria Hernandez will tell you the rolled fried black tortillas (coloured with charcoal powder) stuffed with mozzarella known as Flautas (RM18) are the authentic Mexican ones.

Accompanied by salsa roja, pico de gallo (chopped tomatoes, onion and serrano pepper with salt, lime juice and cilantro) and sliced radish, the moreish speciality is one of the many delicious things to enjoy at his restaurant.

 

Opened some months ago, Hernandez is keen to introduce his native food to local diners albeit with subtle Asian flavours incorporated.

After trying Jarritos, Mexican bottled soda, we were surprised by the moderate sweetness. Available in seven flavours, I like the Tamarind flavour best followed by Fruit Punch and Lime.

Coctel de Camaron (RM26) comprising diced prawns, avocado cubes and onion in smoky chipotle sauce relished with crunchy corn chips proved incredibly addictive. Add a dab of the chef’s house-made chilli oil for a zingy boost.

Unlike the Tex-Mex version, the Nachos here came laden with chopped tomatoes, pickled onion with pico de gallo, beans, creamed avocado, sour cream, jalapenos and fresh coriander. Cheese sauce is merely drizzled on as it’s not supposed to overwhelm everything on the plate.

A hint of Japanese influence was apparent in the Ceviche (RM24) with Chips once we tasted the tangy-savoury lime-cured tilapia in seafood broth. Mixed with diced avocado, tomatoes and onion alongside fresh herbs, the corn chips disappeared in a twinkling.

“Vendors selling paper cups of corn chips down by the beach are a common sight back home. That’s why I use the same plastic plates lined with ‘newsprint’ paper, to evoke the same vibes here,” said Hernandez.

Ardent taco lovers like us had a field day feasting on five types of Tacos (RM10-RM16 per 4-inch piece). Piled with marinated and braised lamb with fresh herbs, topped with cured onion and guacamole on the tissue-thin house-made corn tortilla, the scrumptious Birria Lamb Taco brought us up to gastro heaven.

Surprisingly, the vegetarian-friendly Hongos Taco scored well too thanks to the cohesive combination of blanched spinach, black bean mash, sautéed mushroom and vegetarian sour cream.

Equally rave-worthy is Taco de Pollo Al Pastor featuring marinated chicken with red chillies, achiote (Mexican paste of annatto seeds, cumin, pepper, coriander, oregano, cloves and garlic) and pineapple relish. 

Tasty but more ho-hum options in my book are Taco de Camaron and Taco Baja. The first had tempura prawn with chipotle mayo and pineapple relish whilst the second consisted of tempura fish with pico de gallo, coleslaw and sour cream.

Hernandez also told us churros was Spanish and Portuguese iteration of Chinese yu tiao (deep-fried crullers). “They just added eggs and sugar to the original recipe. In Mexico, we serve it with chocolate or cajeta, caramel sauce spiked with rum but the alcohol is omitted at this restaurant.”

Lightly crunchy on the outside and custardy on the inside, the ridged tubular Churros Con Cajeta (RM17) hit our sweet spot. We recommend chasing it with Horchata (RM10), chilled rice milk served with a dusting of cocoa powder too.

Now you know where to go for truly Mexican fare with Asian touches. There's also a small selection of Mexican treats and groceries for aspiring home cooks to attempt replicating the Mexican dishes on their own.

For reservations at FLAVORS OF MEXICO ASIA, contact via DM @flavorsofmexico.asia (Instagram). Address: Ground Floor, Hartamas Shopping Centre,Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: Tues-Sun 12noon-8.30pm

HOT HITS OF CILI KAMPUNG

Cili Kampung’s show-stealing Gulai Nangka with Pucuk Manis (RM35) won us over at first bite. The chunks of tender young jackfruit and leafy Sabah vegetable (sauropus androgynus) in coconut milk had such well-balanced flavours, we instantly went for repeat helpings.

From the legendary isle of Langkawi comes Cili Kampung’s range of traditional Malay family recipes to tempt Klang Valley folks.

To evoke laidback kampung vibes at the Suria KLCC outlet, fish traps double up as pendant lights, clusters of potted palms and greenery along with paintings of kampung life and little replicas of kampung houses are artfully incorporated into the resto’s décor. There is even a cosy, well-designed private dining room with rustic touches.

The hot and spicy level of its classic kampung fare remain true to local expectations, and our recent lunch was proof of that. Sampling the Sambal Cili Api Chicken (RM40) left us hot and sweaty: the tongue-searing blend of green and red chillies, garlic and red onion was punchy and nice. 

To douse the 'fire', we sought cool comfort in house drinks such as Lychee Lime & Rose (RM16), Bunga Telang Selasih (butterfly pea flower drink with basil seeds RM14), Sirap Pandan Kenduri (RM8) and Rambutan Lengkong (a mildly sweet concoction of diced grass jelly, goji berries and red dates, RM14).

Feasting on the rich and aromatic Beef Masak Lomak (RM48) – sliced beef in a blend of ground chillies, turmeric, coconut milk, lemongrass and turmeric leaves was sublime. Best eaten with rice, the yellow curry can also be prepared with fish, chicken, squid, prawns or hornshell (siput balitong).

Spicy-hot with a tinge of sourness, the signature Asam Pedas Tenggiri (RM65) included aromatic daun kesum (polygonum minus), kaffir lime leaves, torch ginger flower and lemongrass to bestow it with depth and complexity. Okra lent textural interest to the dish.

We found several sizeable prawns in the Sambal Petai Prawns (RM65). TBH, this dish could do with less oil and more petai (stink beans) though you can request for extra petai for extra RM10.

 

A colourful ensemble of palm sugar ice cubes, green cendol jelly, red beans, sweet corn, buttered crumbs, fresh jackfruit strips, fresh milk and coconut ice cream making up Mama Cendol (RM22) hit our sweet spot for the finale.

Richer on the palate was Onde Onde Puding Bakar (RM25), a nice take of kuih bakar, a rich coconut milk-based cake baked over hot coals. Made of buttered bread with pandan and coconut milk, the dessert with layers of palm sugar and grated roasted coconut, came with homemade vanilla sauce.

Conceived to showcase local produce, Bukit Kelapa (RM25) enticed us with triple scoops of coconut ice cream with gula melaka syrup, crushed cookie crumbs, honeycomb, and mixed nuts.

Next time you’re in the mood for some kampung-style fare, trek home to Cili Kampung for your share of comforting Malay food in the city.

For reservations at Cili Kampung, call tel: 014-965 6124. Address: Lot 432 - 433 & OS401, Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: 11 am – 10 pm daily

 

TASTES OF THE PAST AND PRESENT AT PALOH RESTAURANT AND BAR

Guests will never go hungry at Temple Tree Langkawi, thanks to the recently launched Paloh Restaurant and Bar. Aptly named after Perak’s state capital fondly known as “Pa-Lo” in Cantonese, the all-day dining restaurant is located inside the lovingly restored 120-year-old Ipoh House.

Word has it the name “Pa-Lo” refers to the dams constructed along the Kinta River in Perak for fishing. The restaurant’s stately space with classical interior design features: colonial-style windows, distressed wood beams and ceilings, mosaic floors and wooden shutter doors among others segues into sheltered patio and portico areas.

Tastefully outfitted in emerald, teal and turquoise cushioned sofas and eclectic cane furnishings, glimpses of the resort’s namesake tree, lush lawns, main pool and the Pool House are visible from strategic seating spots.

Malaysia’s multi-cultural foodscape is well-represented in Paloh’s various menus, be it for breakfast, lunch, snack or dinner. Changes are often made to the menus; to ensure new and exciting temptations lure repeat patrons with fresh incentives whilst popular specialities are retained for a sense of familiarity.

The launch event was a fine example. Many Langkawi-based expatriates and regular resort guests invited for Paloh’s launching expressed surprise and delight over the beautifully restored heritage houses on-site as well as heaping praises on the various local dishes served that evening.

Designed like an exploratory trail around Temple Tree’s grounds, each culinary stopover at the different heritage houses highlighted Nasi Lemak, Lontong, Pasembur and Teh Tarik; synonymous with the different states where those houses originally came from.

The leisurely pace was atypical to the unhurried pace of a Malaysian kampung (village), allowing guests to have greater appreciation of the local flavours and aroma of each dish.

FEASTING FROM DAWN TO DUSK

A modest buffet breakfast spread comprising Malaysian and Mediterranean dishes inspired by the island and resort setting took centrestage each morning. House-made breads, pastries and cookies jostled for attention alongside hot dishes of fried noodles, sausages, and eggs cooked to your liking.

Juices, freshly sliced tropical fruits, cereals and yoghurts, along with coffee and tea completed the line-up; to ensure a good start to the day.

There’s also the unique floating breakfast experience for guests who reserve under the current Unforgettable Escape package.

A large acrylic tray with a choice of brekkie items: think Nyonya Nasi Lemak (RM28) with chicken rendang, chicken satay, tempeh and requisite condiments, Big Breakfast (Rm32), Cheese Vege Omelette (RM24), Pancakes (RM22) or Waffle Toast with Scrambled Egg (RM22) will be prepared for your enjoyment.

The whole tray of goodies will be ‘floated’ your way, to enable you to savour brekkie without having to interrupt your pool-dipping time. Should you wish to enjoy a picnic breakfast, discuss with the Temple Tree team to make it happen.

 

Lunch for us was specially hosted at the beautiful Colonial House, where we partake the resident chefs’ splendid offerings. We had nothing but praises for the tender Satay (6 chicken skewers RM28, 6 beef skewers RM32) with an on-point peanut sauce and a deliciously smoky-charred Fried Kway Teow (RM38).

A heap of Sardine Sandwiches evoked great memories of the good old days whilst our healthy vege quota was fulfilled by Paloh Nutri Salad (RM28): a huge bowl of mixed mesclun, juicy pomegranate seeds, capsicum strips, cherry tomatoes, quinoa, artisan cheese and citrus dressing.

Hearty Paloh Burger (RM29) comprising beef patty, sliced tomato, salad and honey mustard has already become a firm favourite with resort guests.

In addition to the existing Italian selection such as Pasta Bolognese (RM32) and Pasta Al Pomodoro (RM26), pizzas baked to perfection using a high heat pizza oven are available.

Made fresh on premise, toppings include imported cheese and local ingredient such as locally produced buffalo mozzarella. We took instantly to the two appealing 12” Salmon Pesto and Margherita Pizzas.

 

A few of us tried the drinks too and they came up to par. Mango Float (RM22) – fresh mango with crushed cookie and gula melaka syrup, and Cleansing Juice (RM19) – a healthy blend of cucumber, celery and pineapple were ideal thirst-quenchers for us to wash everything down.

We also joined a fun-filled cooking session with Chef De Partie Roziyanishima Talhad. She shared some tips on how to prepare one of Paloh’s signature dishes, Daging Kerutuk. The trick to this fragrant beef curry is to sauté the spice paste until the natural oil emerged. Also go easy on the coconut milk and simmer until the gravy is thick and glossy.

After relishing cocktail and mocktail at sundown, we sat down to sample a plethora of kampung dishes which used the freshest, locally sourced ingredients for dinner.  

According to Resort Manager Irene Vairo, the specially composed menu highlighted tastes from the past together with the present. She said the team tries to present dishes synonymous with the heritage houses and places where they came from.

Whetting our appetite were piquant Kerabu Tauge Udang (local salad of beansprouts and prawns tossed with fried grated coconut, chilli and spices), Ulam (fresh raw local herbs) with Sambal Belacan, and Terong Belado (fried eggplant with chilli and spices).

Several robust curries such as Daging Salai Cili Api (Negeri Sembilan’s grilled beef strips in spicy creamy turmeric sauce RM45), Curry Debal (Melaka-style fiery Portuguese chicken curry RM25), and Asam Pedas Johor (braised Andaman-caught sea bass in tamarind gravy RM25) fired up our tastebuds.

We also shared a deftly prepared Siakap Bakar (whole grilled fish with spiced paste) before wrapping up the meal with a chilled bowl of Mango Sago Gula Melaka (RM16).

Live music performance at Paloh Restaurant & Bar amps up extra merriment on Monday nights whilst patrons can revel in daily Happy Hour offerings, alongside cool resort vibes at dusk.

To book a table at Paloh Restaurant & Bar, call Temple Tree Langkawi, tel:+6017 599 5935 or email: enquiries@templetree.com.my