BEST OF PERU AT FELIZ

 

Do you know chifa is the Peruvian version of fried rice? Heavily influenced by the Chinese, a gastronomy article published in Journal of Ethnic Food reveals chifa originated from the Chinese words: “chi” (eat) and “farn” (rice). The term emerged around the 1930s in Lima when Peruvians overheard Chinese restaurateurs cajoled potential customers to patronise their eateries to chi farn. 

Egg chaufa or fried rice with ceviche, egg, sesame oil, spring onion and beansprouts is Peruvians’ carb of choice along with French fries, to complement Pollo A La Brasa (RM118), roasted chicken which has been marinated 24 hours with garlic and cumin.

To amp up the flavour, they rely on aji de la casa (house-made chilli), chimichurri (a blend of flatleaf parsley, coriander, garlic, salt, chilli flakes, vinegar and olive oil) and tartara (tartar sauce).

 

This Peruvian speciality is one of the many offerings rustle up by Chef Franco Aldana at Feliz, Klang Valley’s first and only Peruvian restaurant at Avenue K.

Feliz, meaning happy in Spanish, flaunts an open rooftop bar surrounded by gleaming skyscrapers. A tiered water feature and a long, shaded patio decked with potted greenery complete the al fresco section.

Within the entrance, a narrow walkway flanked by multiple shelves of greenery leads into a tastefully decorated dining space. Peru’s vibrant cultural heritage is evoked through a jade-green glass tile wall, a circular wine glass chandelier, colourful Peruvian tassel and macrame wall hangings, and turquoise-toned furnishings.

Our culinary journey to Peru began with chicha morada, a boiled purple corn and pineapple peel drink. It tastes like blackcurrant juice, infused with cinnamon and cloves.

The opening salvo of Ceviche Limeno (RM38) is Peru’s most famous dish. Although it seems simple, Aldana said a good ceviche must be perfectly balanced; from the use of leche de tigre (tiger’s milk), a bright, salty-spicy marinade of aji panca, lime, salt, ginger, garlic and coriander, to the combination of white corn, sweet potato and canchita (fried corn kernels).

We like how the leche de tigre’s punchy sourness melded cohesively with the white corn and sweet potato’s delicate sweetness. Strands of sea grapes lent pops of savouriness as we relished the slippery succulence of marinated fish. Canchita and crispy fried plantain injected crunchiness to the well-balanced dish.

Raw, sashimi-style tuna slices accompanied by a sauce of cold potato pureé, vinegar, leche de tigre, cucumber and mango juices form the chef’s Tiradito De Tuna (RM145). Topped with chalaquita de mango, Peruvian salsa of tiny mango, red onion and cherry tomato dices, the riot of delicate textures and assertive flavours tantalised our tastebuds.

Feliz’s signature Arroz Con Mariscos (RM119), was faintly similar to a perfectly cooked risotto albeit dialled up with aji amarillo (hot yellow chilli), assorted seafood and cilantro.

We also enjoyed meltingly tender and piquantly flavoured Anticuchos De Lomo Fino (RM158), skewers of marinated and grilled tenderloin accompanied by white corn, sliced fried potatoes and chimichurri.

Light and sweet Alfajores (RM27), two buttery biscuits sandwiched between creamy dulce de leche (caramelised condensed milk) wrap up our Peruvian party.

 

The milk-soaked sponge cake topped with Chantilly cream, dulce de leche and fruits making up Tres Leches (RM45) was winsome whilst the Petit Foie Selection (RM45) comprising mini glasses of tres leches, tocino del cielo (creamy caramel flan) and alfajores paves an introductory pathway to Peruvian desserts.

For reservations at Feliz, contact: 011-1771 7742. Address: L4-05, LEVEL 4, Avenue K, 156, Jln Ampang, Kuala Lumpur

 

SPANISH TAPAS AT AC LOUNGE

Tapas, meaning snacks or appetisers in Spanish, has evolved into a culinary artform at bars and restaurants around the world. Derived from the Spanish verb tapar (to cover), tapas initially constituted a piece of bread or sliced meat set atop one’s drink to keep flies away. The tapas selection eventually expanded as bartenders proffer them to encourage patrons to drink more.

Today, one can enjoy a tempting array of tapas at the AC Lounge (AC stands for Antonio Catalan) starting from 2.30 pm daily. Thanks to the inimitable touch of culinary consultant Angie Hiew, AC Lounge’s tapas menu makes this cosy hotel lounge a compelling spot to indulge in hors d'oeuvres and drinks with a Spanish spin.

Simple yet flavourful Classic Tomato Bruschetta (RM15) heralded a vivacious start to our sess. We made quick work of the toasted baguette topped with juicy chitose tomatoes marinated in olive oil, garlic, and herbs.

Wading into the AC Grazing Platter (RM50), we had a field day nibbling on three types of cheese, smoked salmon, lamb prosciutto, dried fruits, grapes, strawberries, nuts and crackers. Perfect fuel to spur convivial conversation and the sharing of bon-mots among our dining party.

Not all meatballs are created equal and I daresay the Albondigas (RM45) were out of the park. Juicy with a noticeably meltingly-tender mouthfeel, the wagyu beef meatballs simmered in a chunky tomato sauce aptly captured the essence of Spanish cuisine.

Another winsome must-try dish is Braised Beef Cheek (RM45). Hiew's culinary métier shone through as every bite of the slow-cooked speciality rewarded us with richly tender, deeply flavourful meat. Hints of red wine melded with natural meaty jus were discernible the longer we chewed

The visually appealing Seafood Paella (RM50) also floated our boat. We enjoyed the fragrant saffron-infused rice; its delicate spice sweetness was amped up by assorted succulent seafood: clams, mussels, prawns and squid, in addition to some tender asparagus.

We had no complaints with the sumptuous Gambas Al Ajillo (RM30) either. The irresistibly springy garlic prawns in garlic-infused olive oil should make a dream pairing with a crisp, semi-dry white wine.

An instantly likeable Chicken with Aioli (RM25) comprising tender boneless chicken with delightfully crispy skin also met with all round approval. The delicious chicken paired well with the lush, creamy house-made aioli.

Our merry feast then wrapped up with Churros (RM20) served with Chocolate Sauce. The cinnamon sugar-dusted, deep-fried dough fritters were sublime when dipped into melted chocolate.

Available from 2.30 pm to 10 pm, the AC Lounge’s tapas menu is also served at other AC Hotels in Penang and Kuantan.

For more information and reservations, call AC Lounge, tel: 03-40428000. Address: AC Hotel by Marriott Kuala Lumpur, 8, Jalan Lumut, Off Jalan Ipoh, Kuala Lumpur.

 

ALIYAA SHOWCASES SRI LANKAN CUISINE

 

Cinnamon, cardamom, chillies and coconut are essential building blocks of Sri Lankan cuisine. Tamarind and curry powder are also favoured in the arsenal of spice mixes for Chef Sivarajah Suppiah of Aliyaa.

Hailing from Nuwara Eliya also known as Little England, the tea growing hills of Sri Lanka famed for its cool climate and colonial era bungalows, Chef Siva started cooking at 18 years old. As the eldest child, he was responsible for preparing family meals when his parents were at work.

Chef Siva was recruited to join Aliyaa in 2008 and worked hard to eventually spearhead the Aliyaa team in 2012. He was instrumental in promoting the diverse flavours of Sri Lanka to the restaurant’s local clientele. “From our famous crab sambal to soul-warming kothu, Aliyaa strives to showcase Sri Lanka’s vibrant food scape through the intricate use of spices and techniques passed down through generations.”

The homespun Kothu (RM30-RM45) is a compelling must try offering. An ingenious way of using leftover string hoppers, roti or puttu (steamed cylindrical-shape ground rice cakes layered with grated coconut), it’s cooked with chicken, mutton, seafood or vegetables in addition to egg, onions, and chillies. Stir-fried in a heated stone pot, the comforting kothu’s enticing charred smokiness and mouth-watering medley of flavours and textures are similar to that of char kway teow.

Earlier we had devoured some golf ball-sized Fish Cutlets (RM24), crisp yet tender orbs of flaked mackerel fish and aromatic spices dipped into luscious onion sauce. No prizes for guessing why this dish remains a favourite among Aliyaa customers.

Another classic hit is Crab Meat Curry (RM185) in which chunks of sweet crab meat comes served in slightly creamy, robustly flavoured curry. Such bliss to enjoy sumptuous bites of crab meat minus the hassle of cracking shells and extracting bits of crab meat. The curry’s stealthy heat also left us hot under the collar.

Named after Sri Lanka’s beach resort with its time-honoured seafood and ancient fishing traditions, the speciality of Tiger Prawns Negombo (RM38 per 100g) proudly stood up to scrutiny. Huge, succulent tiger prawns in thick, aromatic curry reeled us in; capturing our hearts and tummies with a symphony of winsome flavours and texture.

We then relished scraping out the soft pulp from long, slender Moringa pods in a notable Drumstick Curry (RM22). Dousing the turmeric-accented gravy over rice, we were gratified to know drumsticks are good for digestion, high in fibre and rich in calcium and iron.

A gastronomic journey to Sri Lanka can be sampled via the Aliyaa Experience set menu (RM128 per person, minimum 2 persons per table). Crab Samosa and Atukkal Rasam served as the opening salvo.

The isle’s vibrant food heritage will be revealed to you as you work your way through the small portions of Fish Sothi, Prawn Varuval, Devilled Chicken, Mutton Curry, Cashewnut Paal (brinjal) Curry, Brinjal Moju (pickle), Nethili (dried anchovies) Sambol, Vallarai (medicinal herb also known as daun pegaga) and Carrot Sambol, Papadam and Chilli, along with Nei Soru (ghee rice) and string hoppers.

Completing the sensorial tasting party are warm, fluffy soft Sweet Appam sprinkled with palm sugar.

To cap off our Sri Lankan culinary adventure, we indulged in Wattalappam (RM15), a classic steamed custard pudding of coconut milk, eggs and spices delicately sweetened with jaggery.

For reservations at Aliyaa, call tel: 017-883 3738. Address: 48 G&M, Jalan Medan Setia 2, Bukit Damansara, Kuala Lumpur.