A TASTE OF MACAO AT YUN HOUSE

When Michelin-starred guest chef Anthony Ho of Zi Yat Heen, Four Seasons Macao joins forces with Chef Jimmy Wong of Yun House in Kuala Lumpur, the result is more than a collaborative menu—it’s a culinary dialogue, rich in technique, memory, and homage.

 
Held from 3 to 6 July to mark Yun House’s seventh anniversary, the four-hands menu (RM668 per person) is a study in refinement. A medley of traditional flavours refracted through a modern lens, each dish is carefully composed to honour the past with whispers of the future.

Chef Ho, a son of Hong Kong steeped in two decades of experience, begins with a poetic overture: Fresh Crab Meat with Japanese Pine Needles and Caviar. 

It’s a dish of startling clarity: the delicate sweetness of crab imbued by ephemeral herbaceousness of pine needles juxtaposed against the saline pop of caviar. An ode to the purity of good produce in the confident and deft hands of Ho.

Another masterful composition is his Teochew-style Marinated Mackerel and Chilled Razor Clams, a distillation of the restrained elegance of Teochew banquets. The mackerel, cured just so, sings with refined subtlety, accented by a tiny dollop of fermented bean sauce.

 
Partnering it are slivers of delicious razor clams, served chilled with scallion oil and a glimmer of ice plant. The succulent coolness a seductive textural contrast that delights.

Veteran chef Jimmy Wong, known for his contemporary finesse, responds with an enticingly comforting dish: Braised Fish Maw in Millet Broth with Black Truffle. Simmered for six hours, the broth is deeply nourishing—savoury, complexly flavourful and edged with the aroma of truffle. Each spoonful is a revelation; the gelatinous fish maw and tiny orbs of millet speak of the chef’s time-honoured and masterful techniques.

Ho’s unforgettable Wok-fried Lobster with Dried Shallots and Macanese Black Olives is a conversation-stopper. Here, the brininess of the olives—brought in specially from Macao—mingles with the sweetness of shellfish in a lush umami crescendo.

The Stuffed Chicken Wing with Foie Gras, Abalone and Glutinous Rice is at once nostalgic and daring. Channelling the spirit of classic banquet dishes, the stuffing of foie gras melded with sticky rice adds richness, depth and a touch of indulgence. The luxurious chew of abalone elevates the mosaic of texture.

 
Dessert arrives in two thoughtful creations. First, a Chilled Pumpkin Soup with Nostoc Pearls—a soothing, lightly sweet elixir, its texture lifted by the surprising presence of nostoc, a rare cyanobacteria prized in traditional Chinese medicine. Rich in protein and Vitamin C, this anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory element casts the dessert broth in new light.

 

The final flourish: a golden and delicate Baked Egg Tart with Bird’s Nest and Saffron highlights saffron-scented custard with a topping of bird’s nest. It’s a befitting dessert exuding a sense of luxury without excess, a final flourish paying homage to a splendid set menu composed with world-class skills and a wealth of experience.

For reservations, please call Yun House, Four Seasons Hotel KL, tel: 03 2382 8602 or email: diningreservations.kualalumpur@fourseasons.com

GET SET IN MARCH AT ELEGANT INN

Life’s a continuous feast at Elegant Inn Hong Kong Cuisine. March looks set to be marvellous with the debut of two special set menus: Bountiful Harvest and Golden Harvest at this city’s arbiter of fine Cantonese cuisine.

Highlighting a judicious selection of familiar favourites and newer creations, we were accorded a taste of the Golden Harvest menu recently.

Things got off to a happy start with us savouring Crispy Soft Shell Crabs in Light Spicy Sauce, Hokkaido Scallop Bacon Rolls and E.I. Crispy Vegetable Rice Rolls for openers.

Plump Hokkaido scallop wrapped in crisp, tasty bacon stirred our gastronomic juices with the scallop’s oh-so-delicate sweetness amplified by the bacon’s savoury richness.

Nice contrasting textures came into play from the Hong Kong-inspired jar leong. Instead of yutiao (fried fritters), the smooth flat rice rolls were filled with crispy taro strips. Drizzled with a little soy sauce, this delicious morsel made for a sublime mouthful.

I’m not a fan of deep-fried soft shell crabs so this appetiser was par for the course for me. Dressed in a tantalisingly spicy sauce, there were also crispy onion rings amidst the crab chunks.

Known for its salubrious soups, Elegant Inn reinforces its stellar reputation with a superbly Braised Twin Fish Maw with Sakura Ebi in Flaky Fish Winter Melon Broth. 

We lapped up every drop of that viscously silky broth whilst relishing the slippery suppleness of the fish maw strips. Lending it subtle crispiness and umami accent was some sakura ebi for that perfect finish.

Deserving a gold medal IMO was the serving of Golden Fried Sea Crystal Prawns in Salted Egg Yolk paired with Golden Prosperous Chicken Meat Balls. Springy to the bite, the big prawns had us hooked at first bite thanks to the attendant richly flavourful salted egg yolk crust.

Equally raveworthy were yummy chicken meat balls, reminiscent of classic hai jou (deep-fried crab and pork mince balls). The hearty bites brought back such nostalgic feels.

Heralding a sense of celebration in its wake was the show-stealing Braised Five Treasure Pork Belly with Whole 9-head South African Abalones, Black Garlic, Lotus Seeds and Chestnuts.

It was a stellar showcase of varied textures juxtaposed against a supremely lustrous, full-bodied sauce. We thoroughly relished soaking it all up with deep-fried mantou.

After all those heavy hitters, we readily welcomed the subtler nuances exuded by the Braised Vegetarian Assortment with Cordycep Flower and Housemade Tofu. Spongy and custardy-soft melding with gelatinous and tender textures ruled here.

Claypot Rice with Sea Star Garoupa Fillet, Hong Kong Dried Prawns and Tung Choi instantly garnered effusive praises once we dug into the scrumptious rice. Possibly the next best thing to Elegant Inn’s famed lap mei farn (waxed meat rice), this fish-laden version dialled up the appeal factor with a generous topping naturally umami-sweet HK dried prawns and preserved vegetable.

Lunch finished on a splendid high with exquisitely dainty Bird’s Nest Egg Tartlets and irresistible Nutty Sesame Balls. The latter deserved special mention as each chewy ball was stuffed with coarsely crushed peanuts and sugar, to deliver better mouthfeel. A treat worth going nuts over!

We chased those dessert treats with refreshing bowls of Double Boiled Fresh Pineapple with Lily Flower and Snow Fungus. An on-point, cooling broth to counter the current hot and hazy weather.

The Golden Harvest is priced RM1,188++ for 4 persons, RM1,688++ for 6 persons and RM2,788++ for 10 persons and will be available until end March.

For reservations, call Elegant Inn Hong Kong Cuisine, at tel: 03-20709399 or 03-67379399 or WhatsApp 012-7223518.

SSSSPECIAL CNY OFFERINGS AT SHANGRI-LA KL

Auspicious Yee Sang primed up with 2-head abalone, Hokkaido scallops, poached lobster, and Scottish smoked salmon will elevate your Chinese New Year celebration. We had first dibs of this fab opening salvo for the 9-course Immense Wealth Set Menu at Shang Palace recently.

 

Hints of kaffir lime leaves emerged as we sampled the luxurious combo of premium ingredients embodying opulence, vitality, joy, and unity.

Warming up the celebratory meal further is Double Boiled Chicken Soup with Chinese Herbs, Fish Maw and Red Dates. Redolent with savoury-sweet marine flavours and subtle aroma of Chinese herbs, the nutritious soup bears testament to the painstaking care put in by Executive Sous Chef Chew Tai Beh (left) and his culinary team.

Abundance is assured when you savour Steamed Soon Hock with Crystal Noodles, Tangerine Peel and Black Bean Sauce. This year, the fish is locally sourced in line with Shangri-La’s environmental, social, and corporate governance (ESG) efforts.

The notable use of crystal noodles is a masterstroke as the slippery strands absorb the fish’s delicate sweetness nicely. Also noteworthy is the sumptuous sauce nuanced with aged tangerine peel and black beans, dialling up the dish’s overall deliciousness.

Easing the way for fortune and prosperity is a sumptuous platter of Braised 6-head Abalone with Sea Moss and Sun-dried Oysters. Brimming with alluring umami richness, we reckon you’d enjoy the varied textural delights of this classic speciality.
 

Tender with an irresistible mouthfeel, the chicken coupled with the slightly crunchy black fungus in the Simmered Locally Sourced Yellow Chicken in Ginger-infused Sauce with Black Fungus proved to be another stellar offering. We find the punchy sauce superbly addictive, with delicate goji berries' sweetness coming through.

Wine lovers may wish to sample Clarendelle Bordeaux 2017, a ruby-red wine with vibrant fruity aroma and notes of blackcurrant and cherries on the palate. The wine label even features the Shangri-La logo thanks to a collab between the Hotel and Domaine Clarence Dillon. It’s a well-structured wine with smooth tannins, noticeable minerality and a wonderfully long finish.

Sichuan influences are the rage among Chinese chefs currently. This is  reflected in the Sauteed King Prawns and Asparagus in Golden Yam Ring; the burst of zingy-heat when we bit into the prawns is unmistakable.

A generous sprinkling of Sakura Prawns topped the Organic White and Red Rice with Minced Seafood. The crunchy-crisp crustaceans add splendid contrast and depth of flavour to the nutty rice grains mixed with bits of seafood.
 

Concluding the special menu is Sweetened Broth of Snow Fungus with Six Flavoured Glutinous Rice Dumplings. Complementing the dessert broth are delightful Deep-fried Crispy Rice Paper Wrapped Nian Gao with Yam and Sweet Potato, and a piece of Steamed Trehalose (a type of naturally and commercially produced sugar used as sweetener) and Coconut Nian Gao.

Available from 6 January to 12 February 2025, Shang Palace’s Chinese New Year promotion feature special Yee Sang creations (from RM148 nett upwards), classic Chinese delicacies, and festive set menus (from RM228 nett per person), crafted for family, friends, or business celebrations. Also available will be simplified à la carte and Dim Sum menus  from 29 to 31 January 2025.

For dining reservations and inquiries, contact Shang Palace, Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur, tel: 03 2032 2388 or email: enquiries email: dining.kl@shangri-la.com