CHEF KAZUO TAKIZAWA’S NEW GRAND MENU AT ZIPANGU

 

Chef Kazuo Takizawa’s new Grand Menu at Zipangu reads like a love letter to the seasons of Japan, gently kissed with the flavours of Malaysia.

Thoughtfully composed like a haiku, the meal begins with a whisper — a cool, textured tumble of Salmon and Avocado, slick with salted kelp and wasabi soy sauce. It arrives atop a crisp rice cracker lined with fried nori, a poetic symphony of flavour and crunch.

The richness of salmon gives way to the clean zingy note of wasabi, while the umaminess of kelp hums softly in the background like a distant tide. It’s the kind of dish that makes you pause between bites, out of reverence.

Then comes a heartwarming bowl of Chicken and Vegetable Miso Soup that feels like slipping into a cherished coat in the heart of winter. The broth is gentle, faintly smoky. The chicken—salt-marinated, grilled, then eased into the miso—lends depth whilst young corn, lotus root, and shimeji mushrooms tumble through the comforting broth. Takizawa-san calls it “home-style” and it resonates with us.

 

Spicy Salmon Zanmai Roll arrives next, lush with layer upon layer of salmon: raw, cooked, and jewelled with pearly roe. Cucumber, surimi and egg make this sushi roll indulgent without being boastful, the touch of sriracha leaving a gentle glow rather than a blaze. A sip of cold Junmai Daiginjo sake draws the flavours together—clean and fleeting.

The signature mains emerge as a quartet of restrained brilliance. There is the familiar Black Cod Teriyaki and Japanese White Radish yet the fried cod, a nod to Malaysian tastes, holds greater allure thanks to the daikon steeped in Takizawa’s own blend of dashi and teriyaki sauce. A dish updated for its audience without compromising its heritage.

The Grilled Bluefin Tuna Collar is a study in devotion and sustainability. Sourced from a humongous 80kg fish, the collar—often overlooked—is treated with the kind of care and respect reserve for something sacred. 

Marinated in sake, doubanjiang (spicy bean sauce), ginger and secret herbs, then grilled, the rich and meaty tuna collar flesh tastes faintly of the ocean’s depths: hints of minerality mingled with whispers of oyster and brine, soothed by the gentle sweetness of capsicum in a lush, complex sauce.

For me, the conversation-stopper has to be the A5 Japanese Halal Omi Wagyu Tenderloin. Cooked simply, perfectly with a dash of salt—seared until just charred outside, but pink and yielding within.

 
Each bite is warm velvet. On the side, there are fried garlic chips, mustard, wasabi, and a Japanese steak sauce—unnecessary but delightful if variation is called for. Grilled vegetables lend a gentle counterpoint. This is the kind of breath-taking dish that leaves you in awed silence at such masterful culinary perfection.

 
Finally, the crescendo of heat: a Spicy Chicken Curry unlike any you’ll find in Japan. It has swagger, warmth that builds and lingers. Takizawa uses a 30-year-old recipe, refined and reworked with Malaysian heat. The chicken, braised with leek, is tender; the spices—paprika, ginger, garlic—meld into a bold, unapologetic chorus.

Sweetness to soften the ending is Yuzu Sorbet. Icy and fragrant, the yuzu sings—sharp, floral, clean with a kind of silken poise renders by a sticky, almost translucent starch syrup woven through it for unexpected elegance.

In the hands of Chef Kazuo Takizawa, every plate from Zipangu’s Grand Menu tells a story—seasonal and soulful. Each creation soothes as much as it stirs.

For reservations at Zipangu, call tel: 03-2032 2388. Address: Level 1, Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Sultan Ismail, KL. https://www.facebook.com/shangrilaKL
 
 

NEW TEMPTATIONS BECKON AT KAZUMA

Oden is one of those rare but delicious specialities few Japanese restaurants serve in the Klang Valley. Hence I was stoked when I discovered Oden Moriawase (RM22) is now available at Kazuma Japanese restaurant.

This homey, heartwarming stew comes with 6 types of Japanese fish cakes (chikuwa being my favourite), radish chunks, a hardboiled egg and toothsome konnyaku. Also known as konjac, the jiggly yet firm jelly-like blocks are made from the starch of devil’s tongue plant.

Kazuma’s chef Tsutomu Haneishi has also refreshed some offerings for the latest menu. Right off the bat, there’s now a small selection of Japanese appetisers to complement your drinks of choice.

We like the crisp-crunchiness of Koebi Karaage (RM15), deep-fried small shrimps and the succulence of Salmon Tataki Carpaccio (RM30), seared salmon sashimi with black sesame dressing.

Naturally, crowd-pleasing favourites such as Hama Sashimi (5 types of sliced raw fish: RM90 – 2 pcs each type, RM125 – 3 pcs each type) and Potato Salad (RM20) with creamy Japanese mayo have been retained.

For the former, diners may choose from maguro (tuna), salmon, hotate (scallop), hamachi (yellowtail), tako (octopus) and amaebi (sweet shrimp). Rest assured the Kazuma team strives to source the freshest seafood from around the world that measures up to the restaurant’s quality standards.

 

Our penchant for sushi was amply fulfilled on our recent visit with the introduction of Special Nigiri Sushi Tokujyou (RM87) into Kazuma’s new menu. The sea-fresh sweetness of those tender slices of maguro chutoro, hamachi, salmon, hotate, amaebi, unagi and ikura (vinegared rice topped with salmon roe) was certainly on-point.

Should you prefer cooked stuff, we recommend sampling Unagi Yanagawa (RM65), scrumptious simmered eel with vegetable and egg. Served bubbling hot in a little cast iron pot, we love every bite of the subtly sweet eel juxtaposed against the ethereal cloud-like softness of the egg.

Tendon (RM34), a wholesome meal in one consisting of steamed rice topped with assorted tempura, pickles and soup is another notably classic choice to satisfy the tastebuds. The mildly sweet sauce drizzled over the tempura and rice proved appetising, enticing us to polish off everything.

Heartier servings with splendid value for money are the new additions of Teishoku Sets. These beautifully composed set meals come with chawan mushi (steamed egg custard), steamed rice, miso soup, salad, pickles and fruits to accompany a choice of mains.

Having savoured Grilled Chicken Shioyaki/Teriyaki (RM35) and Unagi Kabayaki & Sashimi (RM70), we’d say both stellar options should hit the spot.

For vegetarians, Kazuma proffers a Vegetarian Bento (RM50). The tempting set comprised tofu steak, assorted vegetable tempura, pumpkin croquette, simmered vegetable, futomaki sushi and inari sushi. A visually and palatably pleasing set guaranteed to leave you happily satisfied.

Noodle enthusiasts aren’t forgotten either. We find it hard to decide whether Tempura Chasoba (RM22) or Shoyu Ramen and Inari Sushi (RM25) is better.

The former proffers springy buckwheat noodles which can be served hot or cold, accompanied by delectably crisp, airy-light battered prawns and vegetables.

If you prefer soupy noodles then the latter will hit the spot. We found the springy ramen in shoyu broth lighter on the palate, with the supplementary piece of inari sushi providing textural contrast.

Our requisite sweetener to conclude proceedings was Kurogoma (black sesame) Ice Cream (RM15) but other options available include Matcha Ice Cream (RM15) or Yuzu Sherbet (RM18).

For reservations, call Kazuma Japanese Restaurant, tel:03-2149 2666. Address: Level 1, Wisma Concorde, Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Sultan Ismail, KL. Business hours: Mon- Sat: 11.30am – 3pm, 6pm – 10pm. Closed on Sunday and public holidays.

OISHII SHOWCASE OF OITA SPECIALITIES AT KAMPACHI

For the uninitiated, Japan's Oita prefecture is known for its hot springs (onsen) particularly in Beppu and Yufuin. A culinary haven with its own exceptional food culture, Oita boasts abundant local produce from the mountains and sea. Hence fresh catches of fish and seafood, kabosu (native lime), nashi pear and muscat grapes among others take pride of place at Kampachi restaurant's current Oita showcase.

At the recent media preview, a standee of Kabosu Nukumizu – the kawaii (cute) mascot of Oita prefecture caught our eye within the dining outpost in Plaza 33. Oita is out to entice more Malaysians to discover its plethora of food and drink delicacies until 24 September.

Risa Ito, Director General of Oita Foreign Trade Association (left) together with Takahiro Gokita, CEO of Fan Japan (M) Sdn Bhd and Manabu Fujimoto, Managing Director of Inspire Corporation, shared snippets of interesting information about Oita prefecture with us throughout the evening.

The specially composed Oita menu at Kampachi restaurants is akin to a sensorial feast of Oita delicacies. To toast the collaboration, specially concocted cocktails: Kabosu Tonic (mixture of shochu and kabosu, RM38) and Yuzu Honey Shochu High Ball (RM38) as well as mocktails: Matcha Ichigo Mirukusheku (bottom pix, RM28) and Matcha Yuzu (RM28) will be available to tickle your fancy.

Suffice to say the cocktails should leave you in high spirits whilst teetotalers will find ample delight in the mocktails: the first similar to a light milkshake, blending Oita green tea with fresh strawberry and the second (below pix), a mixture of matcha and Japanese citron evoking clean, fresh grassy-citrusy accents.

 

Making an indelible splash with us was the sumptuous Buri Sushi (RM150). Shaped into nigiri sushi, each one came dotted with different Oita condiments: Kabosu Kosho, Ougon-Yuzukoshou, Yuzu Kosho, Oba-Kosho and Red Pepper Yuzu Kosho.

 

Just like our sambal, the Japanese paste is made from fresh red/green chillies fermented with yuzu juice and zest, and salt. Kabosu, yuzu, oba leaf, and red pepper render the condiment with varying levels of spiciness and zingy nuances. The assorted condiments certainly heightened our enjoyment of the Buri Sushi.

We were also smitten with Ryukyu (RM98) in which slices of marinated raw salmon, tuna, amberjack, squid and scallop were draped atop mounds of rice.

Every mouthful of the irresistible fish and rice was aptly complemented by an exclusive Oita-brewed sake with a 50% rice polishing ratio (RPR). In sake-making, the level of RPR will determine the desired and resultant taste profile of each sake.

Served at room temperature, the delicate umami-sweetness of Saiki Hisho, an artisanal sake with a 65% RPR and the distinctive Bungo Meijyo no Umeshu left us game for more.

Sake enthusiasts will have a chance to meet Oita’s master sake brewers at Kampachi Plaza 33 on September 21 and Kampachi EQKL on 22 September at a special Oita food and sake pairing dinner. Limited to only 40 seats per venue, the dinner priced at RM742 nett per person featuring a selection of rare sake from Oita which have never been exported.

We also had a chance to taste a ‘gold’ soy sauce specially formulated to complement sushi and carpaccio. Served to accompany Hirame no Kobujime (RM145), thinly sliced hirame (Japanese flounder) cured with konbu seaweed, the gold soy sauce with hints of vinegar and fish sauce in it, enabled us to appreciate the hirame’s delicacy even more.

Coated in crisp, airy-light batter, Toriten (RM48) - delectable morsels of deep-fried chicken tempura with ponzu sauce - sparked joy at first bite. One could easily get addicted to them.

 

The offering of Dango Jiru (RM65) proved comforting and soul-satisfying. The flat, slippery noodles in addition to tofu puffs, spring onion, carrot, radish, cabbage, chicken and mushrooms cooked in a pale, creamy miso broth won us over with its savoury richness. 

Sweet ending options include refreshing Nashi (pear), Budou (muscat grapes) & dollops of tart yuzu Jelly (RM48), and Sorakita Mochi (RM22).

Unique to Oita, the slightly chewy, semi-flattened mochi was made using sweet potato stuffed with red bean and chestnut filling. Lightly dusted with kinako (roasted soybean) powder, the delightful treat tasted mildly sweet - a befitting way to conclude your Oita culinary adventure. 

For advance reservations and more information on the Oita prefecture showcase and sake pairing dinner at Kampachi, email: kampachi@equatorial.com or log onto: https://linktr.ee/KampachiOfficial