MORE THAN JUST DESSERT AT MADHATTER

 

Banker turned baker Marcus Low shows his creative culinary prowess transcends the dessert realm at the new MadHatter Boulangerie in Kepong.

The 2015 MasterChef Asia First Runner-up remains a wizard at conjuring sumptuous treats as evidenced by the array of luscious dessert creations he plied us with during our visit recently.

Not only does Marcus uses premium and locally sourced ingredients, his artful, judicious pairing of cogent and cohesive flavours readily sets him apart from other pâtissiers in the city.

 

Upon sampling Marcus’ distinctive dessert creations such as Raspberry Rose Lychee, Chocolate and Cherry, Local Chestnut & Coffee Tart, Chocolate Calamansi, Apple Cinnamon and Banana Bread with Caramelised Cardamom Cream, we find ourselves spellbound by his superior skills and knowledge.

Striving to use more locally sourced ingredients, Marcus tells us his supply of rare jungle fruits and other exotic produce is procured from the Orang Asli community and through like-minded partners such as Langit Collective and Chocolate Concierge.

 

A good example is Bidara or Indian jujube, a local fruit that’s rarely if ever used in French pâtisserie. Instead of raisins, Marcus gives bidara the major role in the fruity filling for his Pain Aux Bidara (one of the distinctive items found in MadHatter Baked Boulangerie).

Marcus who made his maiden business debut in 2017, opened his MadHatter Desserts shop in Uptown Damansara to much social media fanfare. Now, post-pandemic times has driven him to streamline and relocate; he is focusing on providing dessert solutions for businesses whilst his ‘food with a purpose’ philosophy continues through attempts to include more locally sourced ingredients into his creations.

The new MadHatter menu also offers a selection of hot dishes in addition to dessert. Top of the list is MadHatter Signature Focaccia with Deli Cold Cuts (RM28). According to Marcus, the two distinctive charcuterie items: Smoked Paprika & Cocoa Husk Lamb and Ayam Kampung Ham with Turmeric Leaves are made on premise. We find the localised tastes punching above their weight; the emerging accents palate-pleasing and instantly cognizant.

Our enlightening culinary sojourn continues with Faux Liver Paté with Cerapu Jam. Whipped up from an ingenious blend of cashew, nam yue (red fermented beancurd) and blackened kulim (jungle garlic or Scorodocarpus borneensis Becc.), the meatless spread is winsome. We like its nutty creaminess accentuated by complex nuances of nam yue and kulim.

Spread onto toasty bread slices and cocoa husk crisps, we couldn’t stop raving over how well it paired with the cerapu (button mangosteen) jam’s delicate tart-sweetness.

According to Marcus, the cocoa husk crisps we tried is made from ground cocoa husk. “Cocoa husk is high in protein and pectin. Ground into powder, it can be used to make noodles and bread just like flour.”

Tasting somewhat woody-earthy like mushroom, the thin Cocoa Husk Crisps serve as a perfect foil for the deliciously creamy Smoked Mackerel Paté studded with salmon roe.

Fast gaining favour among local gourmands thanks to its musky-garlicky-truffle scent, kulim (another local fruit) when infused in olive oil, bestowed depths of flavour in the freshly baked and sliced Focaccia with Tomato and Kulim Olive Oil.

Adventurous eaters should wade into the boldly inventive Deep Fried Pomfret Open Sandwich with Tempoyak Mayo (RM32). Much to our surprise, the fish’s inherent sweetness held its own amidst the pungency of the creamy fermented durian mayo. Possibly not for the faint-hearted but this is a notable option if you seek something off the beaten culinary path.

Offal fans will find much to love in the Beef Tongue Stew with Swiss Cheese, Chimichurri & Bagel (RM36). Irresistible chewy-soft textures and unapologetically big, hearty flavours rule here. The accompanying coleslaw adds refreshing contrast to the ensemble.

Redolent with the warmth of spices, the Johor style Kacang Pool proved on-point. Topped with a sunny side up egg, the comforting bean stew induced us to lap up everything.

 

There is nothing coy about the Kukur Mushroom Pate Pizza Focaccia (RM22). Earthy-woody nuances abound in every mouthful – something mushroom enthusiasts will appreciate.

So if you’re tired of the ho-hum café fare, go give your tastebuds a rejuvenating jolt with the noteworthy and one-of-a-kind savoury and sweet treats from MadHatter.

For more information, please call MadHatter, tel: 03-6734 9632/012-370 4327. Address: 26, Jalan Medan Putra 4, Medan Putra Business Centre, Kuala Lumpur.