ALIYAA SHOWCASES SRI LANKAN CUISINE

 

Cinnamon, cardamom, chillies and coconut are essential building blocks of Sri Lankan cuisine. Tamarind and curry powder are also favoured in the arsenal of spice mixes for Chef Sivarajah Suppiah of Aliyaa.

Hailing from Nuwara Eliya also known as Little England, the tea growing hills of Sri Lanka famed for its cool climate and colonial era bungalows, Chef Siva started cooking at 18 years old. As the eldest child, he was responsible for preparing family meals when his parents were at work.

Chef Siva was recruited to join Aliyaa in 2008 and worked hard to eventually spearhead the Aliyaa team in 2012. He was instrumental in promoting the diverse flavours of Sri Lanka to the restaurant’s local clientele. “From our famous crab sambal to soul-warming kothu, Aliyaa strives to showcase Sri Lanka’s vibrant food scape through the intricate use of spices and techniques passed down through generations.”

The homespun Kothu (RM30-RM45) is a compelling must try offering. An ingenious way of using leftover string hoppers, roti or puttu (steamed cylindrical-shape ground rice cakes layered with grated coconut), it’s cooked with chicken, mutton, seafood or vegetables in addition to egg, onions, and chillies. Stir-fried in a heated stone pot, the comforting kothu’s enticing charred smokiness and mouth-watering medley of flavours and textures are similar to that of char kway teow.

Earlier we had devoured some golf ball-sized Fish Cutlets (RM24), crisp yet tender orbs of flaked mackerel fish and aromatic spices dipped into luscious onion sauce. No prizes for guessing why this dish remains a favourite among Aliyaa customers.

Another classic hit is Crab Meat Curry (RM185) in which chunks of sweet crab meat comes served in slightly creamy, robustly flavoured curry. Such bliss to enjoy sumptuous bites of crab meat minus the hassle of cracking shells and extracting bits of crab meat. The curry’s stealthy heat also left us hot under the collar.

Named after Sri Lanka’s beach resort with its time-honoured seafood and ancient fishing traditions, the speciality of Tiger Prawns Negombo (RM38 per 100g) proudly stood up to scrutiny. Huge, succulent tiger prawns in thick, aromatic curry reeled us in; capturing our hearts and tummies with a symphony of winsome flavours and texture.

We then relished scraping out the soft pulp from long, slender Moringa pods in a notable Drumstick Curry (RM22). Dousing the turmeric-accented gravy over rice, we were gratified to know drumsticks are good for digestion, high in fibre and rich in calcium and iron.

A gastronomic journey to Sri Lanka can be sampled via the Aliyaa Experience set menu (RM128 per person, minimum 2 persons per table). Crab Samosa and Atukkal Rasam served as the opening salvo.

The isle’s vibrant food heritage will be revealed to you as you work your way through the small portions of Fish Sothi, Prawn Varuval, Devilled Chicken, Mutton Curry, Cashewnut Paal (brinjal) Curry, Brinjal Moju (pickle), Nethili (dried anchovies) Sambol, Vallarai (medicinal herb also known as daun pegaga) and Carrot Sambol, Papadam and Chilli, along with Nei Soru (ghee rice) and string hoppers.

Completing the sensorial tasting party are warm, fluffy soft Sweet Appam sprinkled with palm sugar.

To cap off our Sri Lankan culinary adventure, we indulged in Wattalappam (RM15), a classic steamed custard pudding of coconut milk, eggs and spices delicately sweetened with jaggery.

For reservations at Aliyaa, call tel: 017-883 3738. Address: 48 G&M, Jalan Medan Setia 2, Bukit Damansara, Kuala Lumpur.

 

SPICE, RICE AND EVERYTHING JAFFNA'S NICE AT YARL

Yellow as the sun and fluffy soft, the signature Yarl Dosai (plain RM3, Yarl Egg Dosai RM4) is an inviting option for afternoon tea (4pm onwards) or dinner at Yarl Restaurant in Brickfields.

The dosai gets its vivid hue from turmeric powder; its compelling taste enlivened by aromatic fried onion and curry leaves. Accompanied by dhal and onion curry, the delicious and comforting dish is one of Yarl’s many crowd-pulling Sri Lankan specialities.

Ten years ago, Yarl — derived from Yalpanam, Jaffna’s old name in Tamil — was merely a sidewalk stall in the middle of Brickfields. Today, it’s a full-fledged restaurant which had  undergone a fresh facelift about two months ago. Although the premise isn’t air-conditioned, whirring ceiling fans keep the no-frills interior cool and comfy for a cuppa and quick meals from 7am to 10pm daily.

Two home-trained chefs are tasked with rustling up a wide array of distinct Jaffna specialities at Yarl; based on their arsenal of ancestral recipes and ingredients imported from Jaffna and the Northern province of Sri Lanka. Spices are blended and ground in-house for maximum flavour and freshness.

 

The daily selection of dishes focuses on the 6 Tastes of Food in Tamil known as “Arusuvai” i.e. Sweet, Sour, Salty, Bitter, Spicy and Astringent (Dry). Every meal should include an equal balance of all those flavours, to properly satisfy each major taste bud on the palate. Hence, the lunch buffet at Yarl consists of 15 different types of vegetarian dishes as well as 8 non-vegetarian dishes.

Prices are reasonable too. Take your pick of 3 veggies with rice (RM7) or rice with 2 veggies & chicken (RM9) or mutton (RM12). Rasam and sambal are complimentary with the meal. On Friday, we are told red rice is served.

Notable vegetable dishes we’d recommend include Beetroot Varai, Pumpkin Varai, Pavakkai (deep-fried bittergourd chips), Brinjal-Tomato-Garlic Curry, Lentil Sothi and Vegetable Cutlet (RM1.50). Fragrant spices are used judiciously, more to imbue aroma and flavour in the different dishes than for heat. Only the brinjal-tomato-garlic curry will set the tastebuds tingling with zingy heat.

The non-vegetarian plethora is equally compelling especially Sura Varai — flaky shark meat floss cooked with turmeric, onion, chilli and grated coconut being the most outstanding pick of the crop.

My dining companions rave about the Mutton Bone Curry since they enjoy digging in to relish the marrow. Piquant and bursting with zingy heat makes the Prawn Sambal a standout but I daresay the Mutton Peratal, Chicken Curry and Fish Curry prove on-point too. Chicken Pirattal (RM8), Fish Cutlet, Chicken Varuval, and Fried Tenggiri (RM12) are also available.

For a taste of authentic Jaffna street food, try the house speciality of Chicken Kothu (RM10) — chopped fried roti with spices, onion, leek, scallion and egg. In Sri Lanka, street vendors hawking this popular steet food are a common sight.

Its enticing, smoky taste is similar to local char kway teow. At Yarl, you can order Vegetarian Kottu (RM7) as well as Egg (RM8), Prawn (RM15) or Mutton Kottu (RM12) prepared with a choice of Roti, Puttu or Idiyappam.

Since Yarl opens early for breakfast, it won’t be remiss to start the day with Puttu (RM2.50) or Red Puttu (RM4), freshly steamed cylinders of white or red rice flour and grated coconut. The typical Jaffna way to savour puttu is complement it with side dishes of Dhal and Vendhaya Kulambu (fenugreek curry).

Special mention must be made of the Appam here. Light and crisp at the edges with a soft, pillowy centre, the Sweet Appam (RM2.50) sprinkled with brown sugar and coconut cream is sublime as an afternoon tea treat or dessert. The richer-tasting Egg Appam (RM3) is no less delectable although Sri Lankans tend to eat it with curry or sambal.

For more information, please call YARL RESTAURANT, tel: 010-360 6624. Address: 50 Jalan Pedang Belia, Brickfields, Kuala Lumpur.

A LI YAA - A SRI LANKAN SHOWCASE

My first encounter with Sri Lankan cuisine was at the Hilton Colombo which serves the widest selection curries, sambars and delicious delicacies native to this Pearl of the Indian Ocean. Throughout my week-long stay, almost every day saw a different array of tempting dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner that I fell deeper in love with every bite I took.

Over an indulgent dinner at A LI YAA, I rediscovered those bright and aromatic flavours when the Seafood Kothu (RM28) hit the palate. A comfort food staple among Sri Lankans and an ingenious way of using leftover string hoppers, the fine spaghetti-like string hoppers made from unprocessed rice flour are fried with prawn, fish and vegetables.

Comfort food for Sri Lankans

As a country with the longest known history and a culture that encompasses the richness of language, religion and food, Sri Lanka's culinary essence is what A LI YAA brings to the table. A LI YAA which means elephant boasts a homely interior of rough-hewn and solid concrete bars coupled with raw, tactile walls and mellow lighting. The paintings and creative photographic works of Malaysia’s homegrown artists depicting the Sutra Dance Theatre’s artistic director Dato’ Ramli Ibrahim. are displayed for sale with proceeds going to the ‘Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage’ in Sri Lanka.

Chef Yogeshwaran Selladoreh helms the kitchen team while manager Sangeethan Sivagnanam leads attentive and dedicated waiters in ensuring diners are well looked after.

Aromatically spiced, the half round pieces of Fish Cutlets (RM16) were wickedly scrumptious as was the Sri Lankan Sambal Set (RM12). Served with a plate of crunchy papadums, the quartet of seeni (spiced sliced onion), katta (ground chilli and spice paste with salted Maldivian fish), pol (grated coconut) and karupillay (curry leaves) was so addictive.

The Lamb Rotti Rolls (RM16) − spice-marinated lamb and onions wrapped up in bread and deep-fried to seal in their piquant flavours also got us raving and hankering for more.

Our foray along the island’s spice route saw us savouring Chicken Peratal (RM18), marinated chicken & potato in a heady blend of traditional Sri Lankan spices. The delectable chunks were a match made in heaven with Plain Doosara Rotti (RM8), warm grilled flatbreads served with grated coconut, onion and mild chilli.

Colombo combo or go solo with the Mutton Paal Poriyal

Just when we though it couldn’t get any better, along came Mutton Paal Poriyal (RM26), incredibly tender lamb in devilish aromatic spices that even Hassan from that Hundred Foot Journey flick would approve of. If you opt for the Colombo Combo (RM32), you’d be replete as it comes served with rice, gravy, mixed vegetable of the day and seeni sambal.

I don’t have the patience to fuss over Sri Lankan Crab Curry (RM13.90 per 100gm) but hubs obviously loves it so I reckon the darkish curry is strictly for die-hard crabby fans.  

Prawn sothi-licious

My preference slants towards the mildly spiced, coconut milk-based creamy Prawn Sothi (RM28) scented with lemongrass, garlic, shallots and curry leaves and the robust Fish Curry (RM26); two dishes that evoked wonderful memories of my sojourn.

Brinjal Moju (RM12), deep-fried sliced brinjal with spices and a dash of vinegar is simply moreish and one of the better brinjal dishes I had in a while.

Touted as Sri Lankan’s version of nasi lemak, the Chicken Lumprais (RM24) is eclipsed by the earlier parade and tastes ho-hum. The baked rice wrapped in banana leaf is accompanied by your choice of a devilled dish from the menu, a sunny-side egg with roasted cashews and the day’s veg.

Sunshiny cheer in the form of an egg added to your sweet appam (above) or 
sprinkled with jaggery (bottom)

Things look up again with some Sweet Appams (4pcs for RM20) dusted with jaggery (unrefined palm sap sugar). You can also ask for plain, egg or sweet coconut milk versions. Even better is Vatilaapam (RM8) – a rich pudding of coconut milk, brown palm sugar, eggs and cinnamon to leave you on a sublime sugary high.

Sweet surrender...the custard-soft Vatilaapam

A LI YAA Island Restaurant & Bar, 48 G & M, Jalan Medan Setia 2, Bukit Damansara, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: +603-2092 5378