HENING: A SERENE MALAY FOOD OASIS

Ikan Pekasam Utara (RM15), traditional Perakian fermented ikan loma (river carp) with ground roasted rice and salt is one of the must try dishes at Hening. Sautéed with sliced chillies and onion, the slightly funky, acidic sour-salty and gritty pekasam fish isn’t for the faint-hearted. I love it precisely due to that distinct taste.

We are stoked to savour this and other Malay dishes at Hening, one of the handful of Malay cuisine outposts in the city. Housed in a repurposed old bungalow, three enterprising young men (pic above): Mohd Syariman Zulkifli (centre) and brothers Irham Shah bin Azhar (left) and Ehsanuddin Shah bin Azhar (right) strive to raise Malay cuisine beyond no-frills stall setting into classier environs aimed at locals and tourists.

Banking on their collective strengths and F&B experience coupled with guidance from Syariman’s father and former hotel chef Zulkifli Aziz, the partners aim to draw city folks, urban families and foreign visitors to Hening.

Hening which means serenity or peaceful in Malay, exudes charming old-school vibes thanks to its terrazzo floors and vintage elements. Ehsan relied on his architectural expertise to update the all-white interior with colourful artworks by local artist Rahim Ismail.

Chef Syariman who has 17 years of industry experience is responsible the restaurant’s food and kitchen whilst Irham takes care of marketing and financial matters, and Ehsan, manpower.

Menu-wise, Johor and Perak specialities take centrestage. Lunch dishes are ideal for communal sharing, served alongside Nasi Putih Daun Pisang (RM4 per portion), steamed basmathi rice wrapped in banana leaf.

Aside from pekasam, the appetising Thai-inspired Kerabu Limau Bali (RM15), is a notable spicy-tangy-salty pomelo salad. We recommend accompanying the rice with robustly flavoured mains such as Masak Lemak Daging Bakar (RM40) or Masak Lemak Siakap Goreng (RM45), smoky grilled beef slices or fried whole seabass in rich, turmeric-accented curry prepared following Negeri Sembilan style.

Subtly spicy-tangy tamarind sauce, chopped tomatoes and onion boosts the appeal of Daging Batang Pinang Bakar Air Asam (RM40), grilled tenderloin skewers. Mellower but no less tempting is Johor-style Asam Pedas Jenahak (RM45), fleshy whole snapper in piquant chilli-tamarind gravy.

To wrap up your meal, try nostalgic sweet treats of Pisang Madu Tiga (RM12), caramelised bananas with vanilla ice cream, and Sago Gula Melaka with fresh mango dices. Local tea-time treats such as Curry Puffs, Onde Onde and Bubur Cha Cha are available from 3pm onwards.

Alternatively, sample thirst-quenchers: Hening Pagi (RM12) using fresh pomegranate, Hening Senja (RM12) with crushed strawberries, soda and lemon, or Hening Malam (RM12), fresh watermelon juice with soda.

When it comes to good, comforting Malay food, Hening rules the roost.

For reservations, call Hening restaurant at tel: 017-331 6964. Address: 56, Lorong Damai 1, Jalan Damai, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: 8am to 6pm daily

EAT, DRINK & PARTY AT SPG BY BIJAN

How about a Stinkini to shake up and stir the sedate KL cocktail and food pairing scene? The SPG by Bijan team has picked up the mixology gauntlet and boldly infused our pickled petai (stinkbeans) with martini and dry vermouth to wet the brave soul’s whistle. A tipple to knock your socks off and just the drink to introduce your foreign friends to, in time for Visit Malaysia Year 2020.

 

 

Inspired by the (in)famous Sarong Party Girl (SPG) – Malaysian and Singaporean lasses who prefer to date and nab an expat partner/husband – SPG by Bijan is a literal take on their soirées or sarong parties. Evocative of a playful love child, the bar cum restaurant exudes new-age creativity, marrying typical Malaysian elements and ingredients with regional Indonesian, Chinese and Indian influences.

 

 

Located in a bungalow adjacent to Bijan, SPG flaunts vibrant, alluring walls of peacock blue, fuchsia and green, accentuated with retro vent blocks, and Insta-worthy floral batik murals.

 

 

The shaded terrace lounge beckons invitingly with an eclectic mix of rattan and cane, modern and esoteric furniture in lush jewel tones. Complementing it is an ornate Peranakan tiled bar. A private room with similarly articulated décor and elegant setting for more exclusive dining and celebratory affairs is available.

 

Aside from the Stinkini, a plethora of inventive Asian-inspired signature cocktails such as Yellow Fever (gin, turmeric, honey and tonic water), Hit the Cocojito (white rum, lime, coconut water and mint) and Asam Pedas (tequila, triple sec and tamarind juice) is designed to match SPG’s creative cornucopia of bite-size snacks and hot-off-the-grill servings.

 

A fab example of the bodacious and tongue-in-cheek eats with flirty twists here is the Basic SPG set comprising Ah Ran Sini (Italian arancini transformed into deep-fried rice balls bearing our iconic nasi lemak flavours), Pais Barramundi (grilled barramundi parcel infused with turmeric, coconut, and Malaysian spices then wrapped in edible banana ‘leather’) and Grilled Calamari with Sambal Belacan.

 

 

 

Show-stoppers like Jackfruit Rendang Bao (young jackfruit cooked rendang-style, pulled and piled onto toasted mantou buns), Lidah & Sambal (succulent braised and seared ox tongue served with sambal hitam) and Roti Jala Tiffin (a triple tier tiffin of lacy pancakes with kaffir lime chicken curry, fish floss and anchovy sambal) roused effusive praises during the preview. We were simply bowled over by the sheer ingenuity of the different items; how such familiar and cherished eats can be dialled up to more sophisticated, cosmopolitan levels.

 

The mixology team hasn’t overlook the mocktail aspect either. Non-alcoholic drinkers can raise a glass to Bluepea Tonic – a concoction of honey and lemon topped with blue peaflower syrup and Kedondong Kampung – a salty, sour and tangy blend of umbra, calamansi and sour plum.

 

SPG’s house-curated sambals: Sambal Hitam (black), Sambal Hijau (green), and Sambal Merah (red) are pivotal in amping up the sizzling appeal of its from-the-grill fare. Whether it’s Angus Oyster Blade, Lamb Loin, or Satay (Chicken and Beef), we highly recommend them as they’re cooked to order and absolutely scrumptious.

 

 

Equally notable are the ginger-soy sauce marinated Chicken Kicap Skewers and Duck Skewers (marinated duck leg meat grilled then served with green sambal). Meaty and superbly suffused with aromatic spices, they taste somewhat different from satay but no less sublime.  

 

For a healthy spin, we suggest the exquisite Pan-seared Black Pomfret, served with a zingy coconut and galangal sauce. It’s a pairing made in gastronomic heaven with Sekinchan – tri-colour rice and quinoa with pulled chicken, Asian pesto, rice crackers, and crispy chicken skin.

 

The dessert department shines the spotlight on Pulut Mango Cake, a light confection of chilled mango mousse and coconut glutinous rice on a buttery biscuit base, topped with dices of fresh mangoes that promises satisfaction minus the calorie overload.

Chef Raziz's the man behind those raveworthy culinary inspirations 

Alternatively, go Bananas Over Bananas. A bonanza of banana components encompassing housemade banana ice cream and smoky caramelised bananas in a dehydrated banana cone to leave you ‘peeling’ good.

 

For reservations, please call SPG by Bijan, tel: 03 2022 3575. Address: No.3A Jalan Ceylon, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: Open daily from 12 noon till 12 midnight.