SEAFOOD GALORE AT PENGHULU SEAFOOD

Penghulu Crisp Fried Thai Style (market price) or ‘Lai Sa’ Fish in Chinese, was the show-stealer during our maiden lunch at Penghulu Seafood.

Sliced then coated in a sheer dusting of flour, the fish slices were fried until crisp. Afterwards the tilapia slices were assembled back as a whole fish, served with a heap of sliced onion, chilli, curry leaves and fried garlic crisps. We enjoyed the deliciously on-point fish. A separate dip of plum sauce, kalamansi lime juice and sugar lent it extra boost of flavour (not that the fish needed it).

This was one of the dishes at Penghulu Seafood. The restaurant specialises in Muslim-friendly Chinese cuisine with 46-year-old chef Wan Yee Kwong helming the kitchen team. Ikan bakar (grilled fish) and steamboat with fresh seafood and premium ingredients are also on the menu.

Us avid noodle fans thoroughly relished the Fried Tenderloin Beef Noodles (small RM24, medium RM35, large RM46). Topped with a thick, eggy sauce, the subtly smoky-charred noodles and sliced beef primed our appetite in anticipation of other goodies to come.

 

Thai and local influences melded nicely in the Grilled Stingray. Marinated with a dash of turmeric, the fleshy stingray’s natural sweetness proved enticing. Such a pity the two accompanying sauces were a tad watery and failed to perk up the dish. Hopefully the restaurant will work on improving the sauces.

 

Don’t let the fiery hues of the E San Seafood Tom Yum (S RM24, M RM30, L RM44) be a deterrent as the well-balanced soup tasted milder than expected. Chilli fiends can always request for the hotness to be dialled up.

 

Surrounded by deep-fried shredded kailan, the Garlic Mixed Seafood with Kailan (S RM50, M RM75, L RM100) proffered a nice milieu of textural contrasts: tender and springy squid and prawns touched with a Thai-style dressing of fish sauce, chilli, salt, sugar and lime juice against the savouriness of crispy greens, silverfish and dried shrimps.

According to the chef, his Pattaya Chicken (S RM24, M RM35, L RM45) was another pseudo-Thai creation. After the chicken had to be fried using the ‘oil bath’ method, the chook came piled with sliced onion, fresh coriander, Thai chilli and fish sauce, and lime juice. The chicken was tender and juicy, with the piquant sauce tantalising our tastebuds.

A surefire crowd-pleaser, the Belacan Four King Vegetables (S RM20, M RM28, L RM38) comprising long beans, petai (stink beans), eggplant and okra stir-fried with pounded chilli and belacan (shrimp paste) was robustly spicy.

The chef’s Chilli Prawns (S RM42, M RM60, L RM80) – sizeable crustaceans drenched in a mouth-watering tomato-chilli sauce, echoed the flavourful accents of Singapore’s chilli crabs.

 

We found the salt and pepper accentuated Deep-fried Soft Shell Crabs (M RM44, L RM85) passed muster whilst Teochew-style Steamed Jenahak (snapper, market price) with its requisite accompaniments: sliced beancurd, kiam chye (salted mustard leaves)and shiitake mushrooms should appeal to those who prefer clear, understated flavours.

For dessert, you may order Thai Pumpkin Custard from Penghulu Seafood’s sister restaurant E San Thai next door. The delightfully soft steamed pumpkin with its custardy centre was the perfect closure to our indulgent lunch.

For reservations, call Penghulu Seafood at 011-5633 6377. Address: G-G-3A, Block G, Jalan PJU1A/3, Ara Damansara, Petaling Jaya, Malaysia. Business hours: Mon-Thurs 11.30am – 3pm, 5pm – 10pm. Fri 11.30 – 3pm. Closed Tuesday. 

 

CHALET POP-UP AT EQ KUALA LUMPUR

During its halcyon days from 1973 until the original Hotel was closed for redevelopment, Chalet at the old Equatorial Kuala Lumpur was the arbiter of fine-dining in Kuala Lumpur. A rustic haven with white linen-topped tables, gleaming silverware, and impeccable service, it was an outpost to see and be seen; a rendezvous for Malaysia’s royalty, movers and shakers, the glitterati and jet-setters.

 

I learned to enjoy classic Swiss-Continental specialities such as fondue and raclette among others here. The signature sabayon and crêpes suzette were delivered with such panache, few diners could resist the table-side theatrics.

Chalet loyalists and new customers will have a chance to relive those glorious days through the Chalet pop-up at Sabayon, Level 51 from 24 July to 12 August. Former Chalet Restaurant Manager Azlan Alias and Amerjit Singh Lakha Singh will be at hand to further evoke the nostalgic feel.

During the recent media preview, Raclette Valaisanne (RM118++) was the quintessential curtain-raiser. A Swiss tradition from the Valais canton, half a round of raclette is melted in a specially designed contraption. The melted cheese is then scraped off and served with new potatoes and cornichon pickles.

Strong with rich savouriness, the briny cheese came accompanied by boiled baby potatoes to offset its salty profile, whilst tart pickles tempered its rich creaminess.

Another beloved classic, Fondue Au Fromage (RM288++ for 2 persons) or Swiss cheese fondue with truffle also teased our tastebuds. When you order this speciality, be prepared for an interactive dining experience in which you use long skewers to dip bread cubes into a heated pot of melted cheese mixed with wine and cornstarch. Cheese enthusiasts will enjoy this.

We were also treated to popular appetisers of Salade De L’Empire Romain (RM68++), romaine lettuce salad flecked with shaved Parmesan cheese; Steak Tartare (RM108++), raw minced grain-fed beef steak with red wine vinegar, capers and mustard; and Saumon Fumé Norvégien (RM108++), smoked salmon loin with traditional condiments.

Those tasting portions did the trick to whet our appetite, priming us for Crème De Champignons Sauvage (RM68++), Chalet’s signature creamy wild mushroom soup. Served in a crusty bread bowl, the generous portion of subtly woody-earthy broth enticed us to lap every drop up.

Deliciously lush, Émincé de Veau à la Zurichoise (RM208++) – sliced veal in mushroom cream sauce complemented by crusty rosti potatoes – was as delectable as I remember it.

Other much-anticipated specialities making a comeback will include Lobster Thermidor, Roasted Mustard Crusted Rack of Lamb, and Canard à la Presse (pre-order required).

The preview concluded with a dramatic flair when Amerjit deftly prepared Crêpes Suzette (RM58++), pancakes artfully flambéed with Grand Marnier liqueur and orange juice. Served with vanilla ice cream, the tissue-thin pancakes enhanced with the slightly bittersweet boozy-citrusy sauce left us on a nice high.

Reservations are now open for the special pop-up event. For reservations and enquiries at the Chalet pop-up, email: dineateqkl@kul.equatorial.com, WhatsApp +60 12 278 9239 or call tel:03 2789 7722.

 

 

 

NICE RICE AND MORE AT SPICED PUMPKIN CAFÉ

Nasi Maqlubah, Nasi Mandy and Lontong Kering are the ‘must eat’ dishes at Spiced Pumpkin Café.

Derived from the word maqlu which means upside down in Arabic, café owner Mas Zuhairin Zubir explains the maqlubah rice recipe came from her ex-business partner’s husband of Palestinian descent. 

 

According to Mas, “Our Nasi Maqlubah has to be pre-ordered as it takes time to prepare. Firstly, onion and garlic are sautéed with 14 herbs and spices such as nutmeg, cardamom and cinnamon stick among others to flavour the rice. Then we layer vegetables and protein (lamb or chicken) onto the rice. The whole pot is cooked over an open fire. Once ready, the pot is upended onto a plate – that’s why it’s known as ‘upside down’ rice.”

 

For the lamb version, the meat is roasted before it’s added to the rice whilst the chicken is spice-marinated. The original version uses cauliflower but to suit local tastebuds, eggplant, potatoes and carrots are used instead. Raisins, peanuts and almonds are included as well.  

Aside from mixed salad, Nasi Maqlubah also comes with house hot sauce (concocted with chilli, salt, sugar and pepper) and ‘daqqus’ (a mixture of lemon juice, Chinese celery stalks, mint and pepper) for those who like extra heat and piquancy. A mini pot of Maqlubah Lamb (enough for 3-4 persons) is priced at RM95 while a mini pot of Maqlubah Chicken costs RM65.

Formerly a trainer for the housekeeping department at Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur, Mas first ventured into the food business by serving mostly healthy salads, soup and sandwiches out of a rented kitchen in an old bungalow, for patrons of a yoga studio in the same premise.

 

Then she ran a small café at SACC Mall’s indoor kids’ playground before partnering with another home-based caterer to open Spiced Pumpkin Café in 2016.

 

Now she is the sole proprietor after her business partner opted out due to unforeseen circumstances. “I’ve maintained her husband’s Middle Eastern recipes such as Nasi Maqlubah and Nasi Mandy but I’ve also added some Malay specialities into the menu.”

 

Mas says Spiced Pumpkin’s Nasi Arab Mandy Chicken (RM21) stands out from the competition as she infused the rice with charcoal smoke before serving. Tinged with the aroma and colour of saffron, the fluffy long grain rice has an enticing, subtly sweet smokiness to it. We enjoyed every mouthful accompanied by the tender, lightly spiced chicken.

 

The other show-stealer has to be Lontong Kering Rendang Daging (RM14.50). Mas explains it’s a Johorean way of serving lontong, with cubes of nasi impit stir-fried with her signature serunding kelapa (fried and spiced coconut floss), sambal tumis, peanut sauce, fried shallots and hardboiled egg halves.

 

Eaten together, the dish is akin to a flavoursome party in one’s mouth. Other variations of it include dendeng paru (dry curried beef lungs) and beef, chicken or fish serunding.

Signature light bites such as Pita Nachos Cheese (RM16.50) and Tres Quesos PJBB (RM17.90) are also available to tease the tastebuds of peckish diners. Here, pita bread is cut into triangular pieces then fried until crisp to resemble nachos.

The former comes laden with the house special sauce, melted cheese, hot sauce and chilli flakes. Cheese lovers can relish the latter as the nibbles are topped with three types of melted cheese, beef bacon bits and chopped jalapeño.

 

To please the younger set, Creamy Pumpkin with Pasta and Beef Bacon (RM17.00), and Spaghetti with Butter Salmon in Salted Egg Yolk Sauce (RM28.90) are among the crowd-pleasing selection featured here. All the sauces are made on-premise by Mas so her extra efforts help to dial up the appeal of her pasta offerings.

Having gone viral on social media, kunafa – a popular Middle Eastern treat made from finely spun phyllo threads drenched with syrup and crushed pistachios – proves to be a compelling dessert at this outpost.

 

Mas levels up her Kunafa with Tres Leches (RM16.50): mozzarella and cream, orange blossom syrup, dried rose petals and crushed pistachios. The whole ensemble is creamy, mildly sweet and nutty; with pleasing whiffs of orange blossom and rose.

She also bestows similar treatment to Kuih Lopes with Tres Leches and Ice Cream (RM9.50). Coated in coconut flakes, the wedge of pandan-infused glutinous rice pairs marvellously with gula Melaka, cream and vanilla ice cream. Ditto for the Sago Pudding with Tres Leche and Gula Melaka (RM7.50).

 

Somehow, we couldn’t wrap our head around the South American-inspired Tres Leches Cake (RM15). Dry sponge cake is traditionally soaked in cream, milk and fruits, but Mas improvises hers slightly by immersing the sponge cake into milk prior to serving. Topped with canned fruit, this dessert fails to hit the spot for us.

For reservations at Spiced Pumpkin Café, call hp no:019 2728317. Address: Lot 291, Kompleks KPPMS, 2, Jalan RU 3/9a, Shah Alam, Selangor. Business hours: Mon-Thurs 12 pm –7 pm, Sat 12 pm – 930 pm. Closed on Sun.