NEW CHEF’S SPECIALITIES WITH PLAYFUL FLAIR AT YUN HOUSE

 
Familiar yet fresh. Inventive yet timeless. Chef Jimmy Wong and his Yun House team have rendered fresh Hong Kong-style twists to some classic recipes, resulting in visually striking and tastefully exquisite dishes with playful spins to captivate guests.

Presented on a chic canvas of modern tableware, we readily succumbed to Crispy Rice Vermicelli with Foie Gras and Oyster. How could we fault the artful melding of shatter-crisp texture with luxuriantly rich foie gras and the mollusk's plump suppleness?

Instead of the usual square deep-fried toast, we nibbled on lightly breaded, ball-shaped Prawn Toast with Caviar. Tiny pops of brininess from the lustrous caviar pearls heightened our enjoyment of the springy prawn stuffing and crispy toast.

Likewise, we enthused over the slick black vinegar sauce which exuded mellow, well-rounded tanginess, a nice masterstroke to complement the Mini Beef Steak, tempering its meaty richness.

The spongy-softness of fish maw segued to the delicacy of bamboo charcoal skin when we bit into the Fish Maw Dumpling with Cordycep Flower and Black Garlic. Umami hints from the cordycep flowers merged with earthy complexity of black garlic on our palate the more we chewed.

Diminutive dices of barbecued duck lent an unexpectedly delicious twist to the filling for the red topped, wispy Deep-fried Yam Puff with Roasted Barbecued Duck. The faintly savoury-sweet taste of nam yue (fermented red beancurd) was discernible when we devoured the yam puff.

Primed up with a whole deep-fried Alaskan Crab Meat Wonton, we lapped up every drop of the stimulating Hot and Sour Soup with Sea Scallops and Tofu. Hats off to the chef for employing the scrumptious dumpling and scallops to level up the crowd-pleasing broth.

Equally stellar was Steamed Black Cod with Chopped Chilli. We were reeled in by the fish's natural sweetness and satiny smooth texture, touched with an aromatic superior soy sauce dressing.

Soul-satisfying Braised Hong Kong Ee-Fu Noodles with Wild Mushrooms and Truffle Paste left us replete. Nuanced with lush woodsy and musky accents, we slurped up every salubrious strand.

Miraculously our close to bursting tummies found room to fit in the luscious Yin Yang Black Sesame Ice Cream with Chilled Almond Milk. Redolent with the distinct nuttiness of both ingredients, the luscious dessert proved too irresistible especially since I'm partial to almond milk.

Suffice to say, the selection of new chef’s specialities are befittingly worthy of the Michelin selected restaurant.

To reserve a table at Yun House, contact tel: 03 2382 8602 or email: diningreservations.kualalumpur@fourseasons.com.
 

THE ORIENTAL GROUP'S 25TH ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL MENU

A special 8-course celebratory menu to mark The Oriental Group of Restaurants 25^th Anniversary takes centrestage this year. Curated by the Group’s veteran master chefs featuring best-selling dishes and some ‘off menu’ items, the milestone menu showcases clean tasting yet well-balanced and intensely flavoured Cantonese cuisine. The different culinary sections are also represented, allowing each chef to demonstrate their skills and prowess.

Headed by Executive Chef Wong Ching Leong of Noble House, the other team members include Dim Sum Chef Mak Tin Woi of Oriental Pavilion, Chef Choong Yaw Loong and Sous Chef Yam Yoon Loy of Noble Mansion and BBQ Chef Wai Kok Cheng of Oriental Treasure. Collectively they had 88 years of service and more than 150 years of kitchen experience.

Priced at RM3,888 per table of 10 persons, the 8-course menu opened with a festive curtain-raiser of Soft Shell Crab and Crispy Enoki Mushroom Fruit and Vege Salad. Reminiscent of yee sang, the assorted vegetable and fruit julienne tossed with roasted sesame and wasabi mayo dressing paved the way for more of the chefs’ culinary arsenal.

Using bird’s nest for creating dessert is normal but to incorporate the pricey ingredient into a savoury dish makes it distinctive. The clear, delicately flavoured broth of the Double Boiled Superior Bird’s Nest Stuffed in Chicken alone was superb. Bamboo pith and ginkgo lent textural interest whilst dried scallops accentuated the soup with a touch of umami.

Crisp meets supple-soft texture in the show-stopping Deluxe Roast Suckling Pig Platter. 

Chef Wai’s BBQ expertise shines through the shiny, crackling skin which is placed on top of meltingly tender Iberico pork slice wrapped around goose liver sausage and spring onion. Slicked with char siew sauce, the delectable morsel was paired with soft mantou to complete the sublime speciality.

For the Braised Whole 5 head Abalone with Dried Seafood in Whole Lotus Root, we were told the huge lotus root was sourced from Hebei. Hollowed out at the centre, the lotus root is then braised for 4-5 hours and soaked overnight. Steamed until cooked, it’s filled with the braised abalones, dried scallops and black mushrooms.

We love the dish’s lip-sticking sauce, redolent with umami-rich taste of the filling which had thoroughly seeped into the soft yet gently tender lotus root. The abalones’ toothsome chewiness stood out in pleasing contrast.

The dim sum element was represented by a dainty Taro Pear with Kurobuta Pork. It was agreeable although more of that delish pork filling would proffer better mouthfeel.

Anniversary celebration inevitably means noodles to denote longevity and Braised Ramen with King Prawn marked the occasion. The slippery smooth ramen played a coy supporting role, allowing the fresh sweetness of king prawn to shine. Personally, I reckon springier sang meen works better for this dish but the chefs call the shot...

 

I went nuts over the lightly sweetened Almond Cream with Egg White. A classic dessert blending Chinese sweet and bitter almonds (nam hung, pak hung) or apricot kernels, some diners may find the natural nutty-floral scent offensive but I like it. Suffice to say I lapped up every drop and my partner’s portion too.

Between the Jade Corn Dessert and Green Tea Mochi, the latter fared better. The red bean-studded green tea cream filling was a nice surprise as we bit into the thin chewy skin. I didn’t care much for the former – it was too insipid for such a grand occasion.

The Grand Dinner dates from 8 to 28 August 2024 will be held at different restaurants under The Oriental Group. However, the special a la carte and set menus will be available until end September for diners who couldn’t make it to the Grand Dinners.

For more information and reservations, contact The Oriental Group, visit: https://www.orientalrestaurants.com.my/
 

LET’S DO THE SWISS AT CHALET

You know the Chalet Pop Up has returned to EQ Kuala Lumpur when you detect the distinctly earthy-nutty cheesy smell of Raclette Valaisanne in the air. Also present will be original Chalet Restaurant Managers, Azlan Alias and Amerjit Singh Lakha Singh. Both stole the show with their nimble footwork as they demonstrated the vaunted sabayon routine along with younger team members at the recent media preview.

From 29 July to 17 August, get ready to savour classic Swiss-Continental specialities at the upcoming Chalet Pop-up. Once the go-to fine-dining outpost from 1973 until the original Equatorial Kuala Lumpur Hotel closed for redevelopment, Chalet will once again relive its halcyon days by serving its nostalgic culinary gems to loyalists and guests.

We experienced the restaurant’s theatrical table-side presentation with the chef on duty scraping off the melted Swiss raclette cheese on the spot. Served with new potatoes, pickled cornichons and pearl onions, we sighed with satisfaction upon tasting the nutty and creamy Raclette Valaisanne (RM118++). Its nice milky aftertaste and lush richness was balanced by the pickles and baby potatoes.

Cheese lovers mustn’t pass up on Fondue Au Fromage (RM288++ for 2 persons). Scented with truffle, the bubbling pot of savoury Swiss cheese also known as fondue promises an interactive dining experience. Dipping bread cubes into the melted cheese infused with wine makes for a novel, fun-filled experience for the uninitiated.

We also sampled the popular appetiser of Salade De L’Empire Romain (RM78++), romaine lettuce salad flecked with shaved Parmesan cheese, croutons and a sprinkling of diced air-dried beef. Light and refreshing.

Those tasting portions did the trick to whet our appetite, priming us for Crème De Champignons Sauvage (RM68++), Chalet’s signature creamy wild mushroom soup. Served in a crusty and warm bread roll, the salubrious broth brimming with rustic woodsy broth beguiled us to lap everything up.

We also relished every bite of the sumptuous Émincé de Veau à la Zurichoise (RM208++), Zurich-style sliced veal in creamy mushroom sauce. Paired with a generous portion of crusty rosti potatoes to absorb all those rich flavours, we were transported to seventh culinary heaven.

Personally for me, the day's show-stealer was the supremely tender Duck Breast à l’Orange (RM188++). I was completely smitten by the excellent, full-bodied sauce bigarade – a classic Provence (bitter)orange sauce – matched the meltingly tender slices of duck breast. The rich flavours made resisting the dauphine potatoes (baked sliced potatoes with cream and garlic) and pine seed-broccolini impossible.

 

Amerjit wrapped up the lunch sess with his blazing Crêpes Suzette (RM68++), artfully flambéed pancakes in orange juice and Grand Marnier liqueur. The tissue-thin pancakes drenched in the slightly bittersweet boozy-citrusy sauce and complemented by vanilla ice cream was a most befitting finale.

Reservations are now open for the special Chalet Pop-up restaurant at EQKL. For reservations and enquiries, WhatsApp +60 12 278 9239 or call tel: 03 2789 7722 or email: dineateqkl@kul.equatorial.com.