De.Wan 1958 at Bangsar Shopping Centre is the epitome of style and taste, with the IG-worthy interior exuding clubby library vibes at the entrance before segueing into a spacious dining space. Vintage colonial era fans move languidly and warm lighting at strategic spots give way to a warren of tastefully furnished private dining rooms.
Pulled together by orange honey, sweet red chilli and nutty
gado-gado sauce in addition to crushed peanuts and sesame seeds, the refreshing
yee sang salad is a nod to the archipelago’s influences.
The
same sense of joyful plurality runs through the meal. As a platform for telling
Malaysia’s food story in full colour, and sweet, tangy and spice-laced flavours,
each dish at De.Wan echoes those of home cooking, elevated without losing its
soul.
Rice,
always central to Malaysian meals, comes in two symbolic expressions: Nasi
Bunga Telang, tinted jade-blue with butterfly pea for wisdom and fortune, and
Nasi Pandan Delima, liberally studded with raisins and pomegranate, for
vitality and wealth. The ideal foil to capture the lush flavours of the myriad
main dishes.
Immersed
in an aromatic green gravy, the braised Signature Green Lamb Opor entices with
fork-tender meat redolent with the warm, hearty richness of spices and coconut
milk.
Equally
noteworthy is Auspicious Jumbo Sotong – succulent calamari pieces simmered in
coconut milk and coastal spices – boast more delicate depth; the sublime flavours
unfolding with each bite.
Fish,
a perennial symbol of abundance to the Chinese, arrives as Five Blessings
Steamed Siakap. Its clean, delicate flesh is enlivened with a fragrant topping
of chilli padi, lemongrass, ginger and tomato. The harmonious balance is
thoughtful rather than showy, allowing culinary and symbolic facets to take
centrestage.
Delicious
fried chicken pieces acquire extra appeal in the taste and colour spectrum with
the accompaniment of glossy orange-butter sauce, creating a most winsome Golden
Orange Treasure Chicken.
The
assertive umaminess of fermented shrimp paste meets wok-fried greens, ensuring
the Four Treasures Belacan King Vegetables an agreeable inclusion for the
celebratory menu.
Dessert
keeps things light and rooted in the tropics. Tropical Jewels of Longevity
offers sun-ripened fruits, while little bowls of soft Gula Melaka Sago Pearls
deliver subtly sweet indulgence without excess.













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