The largest banquet hall in Cheras. That
is Oriental Star’s claim to fame; heralding the debut the newest restaurant
under the Oriental Restaurants group, to open in one of KL’s most densely
populated suburbs.
Personally, I’m overjoyed as Cheras has
always been considered a backwater; more renowned for its notorious traffic
jams (really? Which part of Klang Valley is not??) and often perceived as a
‘rough and tumble’ ‘hood. It is heartening to know savvy restaurateurs
like the Oriental Group realise this huge area has untapped
potential, with folks yearning for the latest lifestyle mod-cons.
Designed as a wedding and banquet venue,
Oriental Star’s cavernous premise boasts an uncluttered setting, complete with
a raised stage, mellow downlights and plush underfoot carpeting. Besides dim sum to pull in the lunch
crowd, Oriental Star is enticing Cheras residents with a super value Gourmet
Set Menu. Priced at RM 798++ per table of 10 pax, the multiple course menu
should be the irresistible siren’s call to any food lover’s heart and stomach.
True to the Oriental Restaurants’ Group
ethos, the opening volley is already designed to create an indelible
impression. No detail is left to chance as the curtain-raising Teochew Style
Platter is presented with aplomb, on a custom-made tiered stand to exude that
wow factor.
Under the capable leadership of culinary
supremo and Group Executive Chef Justin Hor, the kitchen team here proves they
have the chops from the get-go. The quartet of appetisers comprising Fragrant
Garlic Fish Fillet, Stewed Pork Neck, Intestines & Beancurd, Crispy Crab
Meat Dumplings and Sea Clams with Wasabi Sesame Sauce is guaranteed to garner a few 'wow' around the table. Thumbs up to the
clever melding of old-school, nostalgic taste and textural appeal with fleeting fusion influences.
My fave out of the lavish platter is the
sliced clams complemented by crunchy jellyfish and okra pieces dressed in the
nutty-zingy sauce. The other offerings are equally on-point and should bridge the
familial generation gap easily.
The stodgy and somewhat fishy Braised Shark’s Fin with Crab Roe is underwhelming IMHO. And let's not wade into hot soup over the key ingredient (you know what I'm referring to) as one's man soup is another man's poison.
Fresh hope resurfaces once we sample the whole Steamed Ocean Dragon Garoupa with Fresh Abalone, Seng Kwa
(luffa) & Squid Balls Taishan Style. Inspired by the ubiquitous hot pot of
Taishan — a city-level county in Guangdong province — the clear, inherent sweet
fish makes a raveworthy splash along with some toothsome abalone scattered with minced garlic, soft-tender luffa with slippery glass noodles and
springy squid balls.
As expected, the house speciality of Roast
Suckling Pig with Preserved Beancurd alone makes this menu worth every ringgit.
Just savouring the impossibly thin, crackly crisp skin is utterly satisfying.
Although I enjoy the plump strands of Stir-fried Asparagus Beans with Olive and
Soy Beans, I find the residual oily aftertaste leaves much to be desired. It could be our fault as we had left the dish sitting there too long. Remember, this dish is best eaten piping hot.
Eating Steamed Rice with Waxed Meat
& Yam Shunde Style is almost evocative of the Lunar New Year season but
such flavour-packed comfort food will undoubtedly hit the spot with the Cheras crowd.
Bringing the curtains down with a
flourish are Three Angels, whimsically presented on another triple tiered stand
resembling a tree with tiny birds perched on it. On closer inspection, each
‘branch’ bears a different dessert: lemon jelly and osmanthus jelly balls as
well as dainty bricks of steamed sponge cakes with dessicated
coconut. Ethereally light and subtly sweet, the delicate morsels ensure we
leave Oriental Star in blissfully sweet mood.
The Gourmet Set is available for dine-in
only until 31 December 2018.
For reservations, call Oriental Star, tel: 03-9134
8488. Address: M-S-01, Level 2, EkoCheras Mall, No. 693, Batu 5, Jalan Cheras,
Kuala Lumpur.
