MALAY FLAVOURS LEND SHINE AT MADAM LEE

Chef de Cuisine Rizal Sobry has joined hands with Executive Chef Irwan Sutan Chairul to extend the Peranakan palette at Madam Lee Nyonya Private Dining — incorporating timeless Malay recipes with depth, fire and fragrance intact.

The introduction of Malay culinary classics feels more like a homecoming, bringing quiet comfort to the menu. Nestled amidst the grounds of Palm Garden Hotel Putrajaya, the restaurant's recessed shelves decked with Peranakan ceramics segue to a soaring high ceiling space and a grand staircase leading to an airy dining space.

Warm and welcoming, we dip and sip on Singgang Seafood Soup (RM30), a coconut milk-based broth cradling prawns, squid, clams, fish and tender vegetables. Modest in appearance but rich in spirit, the creamy and subtly tangy soup leans in with whispers of lemongrass and sweet brine of the sea.

 

Pie Tie (RM28), those crisp little top hats of jicama, mushroom, egg and prawn; Loh Bak (RM25), deep-fried beancurd sheet rolls of meat, vegetables and spices; and Otak-otak (RM25), spiced fish mousse served chilled are ubiquitous mainstays to tickle the tastebuds.

Soft and yielding smoked beef in a golden pool of turmeric and coconut milk—thick, perfumed and almost pastoral in its richness makes the Daging Salai Masak Lemak (RM48) notable. You taste the smokiness first, then the heat of chilli and spices followed by the grassy-citrusy scent of turmeric leaf. It clings to the beef, then lingers long after you’ve set your spoon down.

If that was a murmur, the Paru Sambal Cili Api (RM45) was a roar. Slightly chewy beef lung slices, swimming in a biting-hot bird’s eye chilli sambal, is not a dish for the faint-hearted. But die-hard fans will love it for its fierce honesty.

Take the edge off with Ikan Masak Kicap (RM58), trad fried red snapper doused in a bewitchingly dark sweet-savoury soy glaze. You’d delight in the mellow, gently spiced sauce; sweet at the edges—perfect to go with plain white rice.

 
More amicable options, easy on the tastebuds include golden-skinned Ayam Goreng Berempah (RM32), its spice coating adding appeal to the chook; Chap Chye (RM28), the homey mixed vegetable milieu that tastes like something your Nyonya grandmother might dish up; and a robust, deeply comforting Nyonya Fried Rice.

 
Dessert is whimsical and tropical—Sago Cha Cha with Taro Ice Cream (RM18), creamy and cool on the tongue; and rich yet sticky Pineapple Pulut Hitam Crème Brûlée (RM26), with just the right crackle of burnt sugar on top.

 

At Madam Lee, the spices may flare, the sauces may cling, but there’s always grace in the telling and old flavours bloom anew.
 
For reservations, call Madam Lee Nyonya Private Dining, tel:03-8943 2233 or visit https://www.madamleenyonya.com/
Address: Palm Garden Hotel, Putrajaya, IOI Resort City, Putrajaya

ALIYAA SHOWCASES SRI LANKAN CUISINE

 

Cinnamon, cardamom, chillies and coconut are essential building blocks of Sri Lankan cuisine. Tamarind and curry powder are also favoured in the arsenal of spice mixes for Chef Sivarajah Suppiah of Aliyaa.

Hailing from Nuwara Eliya also known as Little England, the tea growing hills of Sri Lanka famed for its cool climate and colonial era bungalows, Chef Siva started cooking at 18 years old. As the eldest child, he was responsible for preparing family meals when his parents were at work.

Chef Siva was recruited to join Aliyaa in 2008 and worked hard to eventually spearhead the Aliyaa team in 2012. He was instrumental in promoting the diverse flavours of Sri Lanka to the restaurant’s local clientele. “From our famous crab sambal to soul-warming kothu, Aliyaa strives to showcase Sri Lanka’s vibrant food scape through the intricate use of spices and techniques passed down through generations.”

The homespun Kothu (RM30-RM45) is a compelling must try offering. An ingenious way of using leftover string hoppers, roti or puttu (steamed cylindrical-shape ground rice cakes layered with grated coconut), it’s cooked with chicken, mutton, seafood or vegetables in addition to egg, onions, and chillies. Stir-fried in a heated stone pot, the comforting kothu’s enticing charred smokiness and mouth-watering medley of flavours and textures are similar to that of char kway teow.

Earlier we had devoured some golf ball-sized Fish Cutlets (RM24), crisp yet tender orbs of flaked mackerel fish and aromatic spices dipped into luscious onion sauce. No prizes for guessing why this dish remains a favourite among Aliyaa customers.

Another classic hit is Crab Meat Curry (RM185) in which chunks of sweet crab meat comes served in slightly creamy, robustly flavoured curry. Such bliss to enjoy sumptuous bites of crab meat minus the hassle of cracking shells and extracting bits of crab meat. The curry’s stealthy heat also left us hot under the collar.

Named after Sri Lanka’s beach resort with its time-honoured seafood and ancient fishing traditions, the speciality of Tiger Prawns Negombo (RM38 per 100g) proudly stood up to scrutiny. Huge, succulent tiger prawns in thick, aromatic curry reeled us in; capturing our hearts and tummies with a symphony of winsome flavours and texture.

We then relished scraping out the soft pulp from long, slender Moringa pods in a notable Drumstick Curry (RM22). Dousing the turmeric-accented gravy over rice, we were gratified to know drumsticks are good for digestion, high in fibre and rich in calcium and iron.

A gastronomic journey to Sri Lanka can be sampled via the Aliyaa Experience set menu (RM128 per person, minimum 2 persons per table). Crab Samosa and Atukkal Rasam served as the opening salvo.

The isle’s vibrant food heritage will be revealed to you as you work your way through the small portions of Fish Sothi, Prawn Varuval, Devilled Chicken, Mutton Curry, Cashewnut Paal (brinjal) Curry, Brinjal Moju (pickle), Nethili (dried anchovies) Sambol, Vallarai (medicinal herb also known as daun pegaga) and Carrot Sambol, Papadam and Chilli, along with Nei Soru (ghee rice) and string hoppers.

Completing the sensorial tasting party are warm, fluffy soft Sweet Appam sprinkled with palm sugar.

To cap off our Sri Lankan culinary adventure, we indulged in Wattalappam (RM15), a classic steamed custard pudding of coconut milk, eggs and spices delicately sweetened with jaggery.

For reservations at Aliyaa, call tel: 017-883 3738. Address: 48 G&M, Jalan Medan Setia 2, Bukit Damansara, Kuala Lumpur.

 

HOT HITS OF CILI KAMPUNG

Cili Kampung’s show-stealing Gulai Nangka with Pucuk Manis (RM35) won us over at first bite. The chunks of tender young jackfruit and leafy Sabah vegetable (sauropus androgynus) in coconut milk had such well-balanced flavours, we instantly went for repeat helpings.

From the legendary isle of Langkawi comes Cili Kampung’s range of traditional Malay family recipes to tempt Klang Valley folks.

To evoke laidback kampung vibes at the Suria KLCC outlet, fish traps double up as pendant lights, clusters of potted palms and greenery along with paintings of kampung life and little replicas of kampung houses are artfully incorporated into the resto’s décor. There is even a cosy, well-designed private dining room with rustic touches.

The hot and spicy level of its classic kampung fare remain true to local expectations, and our recent lunch was proof of that. Sampling the Sambal Cili Api Chicken (RM40) left us hot and sweaty: the tongue-searing blend of green and red chillies, garlic and red onion was punchy and nice. 

To douse the 'fire', we sought cool comfort in house drinks such as Lychee Lime & Rose (RM16), Bunga Telang Selasih (butterfly pea flower drink with basil seeds RM14), Sirap Pandan Kenduri (RM8) and Rambutan Lengkong (a mildly sweet concoction of diced grass jelly, goji berries and red dates, RM14).

Feasting on the rich and aromatic Beef Masak Lomak (RM48) – sliced beef in a blend of ground chillies, turmeric, coconut milk, lemongrass and turmeric leaves was sublime. Best eaten with rice, the yellow curry can also be prepared with fish, chicken, squid, prawns or hornshell (siput balitong).

Spicy-hot with a tinge of sourness, the signature Asam Pedas Tenggiri (RM65) included aromatic daun kesum (polygonum minus), kaffir lime leaves, torch ginger flower and lemongrass to bestow it with depth and complexity. Okra lent textural interest to the dish.

We found several sizeable prawns in the Sambal Petai Prawns (RM65). TBH, this dish could do with less oil and more petai (stink beans) though you can request for extra petai for extra RM10.

 

A colourful ensemble of palm sugar ice cubes, green cendol jelly, red beans, sweet corn, buttered crumbs, fresh jackfruit strips, fresh milk and coconut ice cream making up Mama Cendol (RM22) hit our sweet spot for the finale.

Richer on the palate was Onde Onde Puding Bakar (RM25), a nice take of kuih bakar, a rich coconut milk-based cake baked over hot coals. Made of buttered bread with pandan and coconut milk, the dessert with layers of palm sugar and grated roasted coconut, came with homemade vanilla sauce.

Conceived to showcase local produce, Bukit Kelapa (RM25) enticed us with triple scoops of coconut ice cream with gula melaka syrup, crushed cookie crumbs, honeycomb, and mixed nuts.

Next time you’re in the mood for some kampung-style fare, trek home to Cili Kampung for your share of comforting Malay food in the city.

For reservations at Cili Kampung, call tel: 014-965 6124. Address: Lot 432 - 433 & OS401, Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: 11 am – 10 pm daily