NEW CHEF’S SPECIALITIES WITH PLAYFUL FLAIR AT YUN HOUSE

 
Familiar yet fresh. Inventive yet timeless. Chef Jimmy Wong and his Yun House team have rendered fresh Hong Kong-style twists to some classic recipes, resulting in visually striking and tastefully exquisite dishes with playful spins to captivate guests.

Presented on a chic canvas of modern tableware, we readily succumbed to Crispy Rice Vermicelli with Foie Gras and Oyster. How could we fault the artful melding of shatter-crisp texture with luxuriantly rich foie gras and the mollusk's plump suppleness?

Instead of the usual square deep-fried toast, we nibbled on lightly breaded, ball-shaped Prawn Toast with Caviar. Tiny pops of brininess from the lustrous caviar pearls heightened our enjoyment of the springy prawn stuffing and crispy toast.

Likewise, we enthused over the slick black vinegar sauce which exuded mellow, well-rounded tanginess; a nice masterstroke to complement the Mini Beef Steak, tempering its meaty richness.

The spongy-softness of fish maw segued to the delicacy of bamboo charcoal skin when we bit into the Fish Maw Dumpling with Cordycep Flower and Black Garlic. Umami accent from cordycep flowers merged with earthy complexity of black garlic on our palate the more we chewed.

Diminutive dices of barbecued duck lent an unexpectedly delicious twist to the filling for the red topped, wispy Deep-fried Yam Puff with Roasted Barbecued Duck. The faintly savoury-sweet taste of nam yue (fermented red beancurd) was discernible when we devoured the yam puff.

Primed up with a whole deep-fried Alaskan Crab Meat Wonton, we lapped up every drop of the stimulating Hot and Sour Soup with Sea Scallops and Tofu. Hats off to the chef for employing the scrumptious dumpling and scallops to level up the crowd-pleasing broth.

Equally stellar was Steamed Black Cod with Chopped Chilli. We were reeled in by the fish's natural sweetness and satiny smooth texture, touched with an aromatic superior soy sauce dressing.

Soul-satisfying Braised Hong Kong Ee-Fu Noodles with Wild Mushrooms and Truffle Paste left us replete. Nuanced with lush woodsy and musky accents, we slurped up every salubrious strand.

Miraculously, our close to bursting tummies found room to fit in the luscious Yin Yang Black Sesame Ice Cream with Chilled Almond Milk. Redolent with the distinct nuttiness of both ingredients, the alluring dessert proved too irresistible especially since I'm partial to almond milk.

Suffice to say, the selection of new chef’s specialities are befittingly worthy of the Michelin selected restaurant.

To reserve a table at Yun House, contact tel: 03 2382 8602 or email: diningreservations.kualalumpur@fourseasons.com.
 

SPLENDID MOONCAKES FROM DORSETT GRAND SUBANG

Handcrafted by resident chefs of The Emperor restaurant, both baked and snowskin mooncakes make perfect gifts this Mid-Autumn Festival.

I like the design simplicity of the Celestial Gift Set. Clad in red with the hotel name hot stamped in gold, each gift box can hold a set of four mooncakes.

TBH, these baked variants comprising White Lotus Paste with Single Yolk (RM46), Pandan Lotus Paste with Single Yolk (RM46), Pure Red Bean Paste (RM38) and Six Coarse Grains Paste (RM46) exceeded my expectations.

Their nice, glossy sheen once I cut into them bears testament to good ‘yau sui’, that slick slight oiliness all notable mooncakes is judged by. According to experienced Chinese chefs, it’s a sign of well-made mooncakes with ample time to rest post-baking, resulting in their deliciousness.

Proof of that is truly in the eating. The red bean paste blows me away with its just-right sweetness. Between the pandan-flavoured and regular white lotus paste, I find the former coming up trumps thanks to its enticing aroma and appealing vanilla-like flavour.

Only the nutty variant seems a little dry and underwhelming. Overall, I’d recommend mooncakes from The Emperor as gifts this Mid-Autumn Festival. They are Halal-certified too.
 
To order Dorsett Grand Subang’s mooncakes, call The Emperor restaurant, tel: 03-5031 6060 ext 1912 or email: bookfnb.subang@dorsetthotels.com

EXQUISITE, TIMELESS MOONCAKES FROM SHANGRI-LA KL

 

Available now until 17 September 2024, an exquisite range of timeless mooncakes is available from Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur for the Mid-Autumn Festival.

My Blossom Bliss Gift Set in a pretty pink gift box contained a set of four baked mooncakes. The auspicious gift box of Snowskin Indulgence set came with 8 snowskin mooncakes.

Priced at RM288 for the latter, the 60g snow skin creations feature Musang King, Butterfly Pea Flower Skin with Coconut, Mango & Passion Fruit and Yuzu & Cheese variants.

Delicately crafted, you’d know the luscious Musang King filling from the ripe aroma alone. Since I’m an avid durian fan, I adore the creamy richness enfolded within the delicate layer of mochi-like snow skin.

Light and fruity with refreshing tanginess denotes the Mango & Passion Fruit variant whilst the Yuzu & Cheese filling exuded a delightful pairing of citrusy and savoury accents. For a touch of local flavour, the subtly sweet Pea Flower Snowskin with Coconut filling proved enticingly on-point.

Purists may prefer the baked Red Bean Paste with 30-year Dried Tangerine Peel (RM41). This was one of my favourites too as the dried tangerine peel imbued the red bean paste mooncake with a mellow sweet tangerine nuance.

The Black Truffle Lotus Seed Paste with Yolk (RM46) turned out to be a dark horse; a thoroughbred creation that romped home a winner. Unconventional but I found myself liking how the musky-earthy truffle aroma was amplified by the savoury yolk.

Likewise, the distinctly heady floral scent of osmanthus was noticeable when I sampled the Osmanthus Lotus Seed Paste with Yolk (RM42) mooncake. Another outstanding pairing worth savouring if you’re looking for a new twist to old-school baked mooncakes.

Of course, you can always return to classic Pandan Lotus Seed Paste with Yolk (RM42) if you’re a stickler for tradition. The sweetness level is just nice with the jade-green filling exuding a nice vanilla-like aroma.

The Blossom Bliss or Snowskin Indulgence gift sets from Shangri-La KL will make impressive gifts for family and friends to celebrate this Mid-Autumn Festival.

For more information, call Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur, tel: 03 2786 2378 or email: festive.KL@shangri-la.com

 

GRAZE, SIP AND SING AT SARASTRO KL BY MILLENNIUM

 

Much as I'd like to refrain from using the term ‘hidden gem’, Sarastro KL at Millennium Lounge is exactly that. Ensconced inside a loft-like space atop Tribeca KL, the initial impression we had of Sarastro KL was it’s one of those speakeasy bars people enjoy discovering.

Exuding the vibes of a gentleman’s club meets posh library, the sedate feel is alleviated by some whimsical Harry Potter-ish touches: owl figurines perched from book-filled shelves, clusters of decorative candles, and vintage bric-a-bracs. The cloak and dagger element is a hidden door leading into the inner sanctum, camouflaged as a sturdy bookshelf.

Inside a raised stage for live performances – currently a solo guitarist entertains Thurs-Sat 8pm-11pm – take pride of place. Overhead is the outlet’s name picked out in Hollywood-style lights.

The banquette seating beside a bank of glass picture windows accords a nice view of the city skyline dominated by the Merdeka 118 Tower. Orderly clusters of dark wood tables and upholstered chairs in neutral tone can easily fit small and large dining groups.

In addition, there are two other private rooms: one can accommodate 10 persons whilst the other can fit up to 20. Karaoke systems are available in-room so songbirds can warble to their hearts’ content.

As a prelude to dinner, the resident mixologist rustled up cocktails for us, complete with billowing misty effects using dry ice. He shook, rattled and poured the concoctions into glasses and voila, two cocktails were created. It was a toss between Cherry Blue comprising Bombay Sapphire gin, Bacardi, Cointreau, blackcurrant syrup and blue curaçao garnished with lime wheel; and Purple Rain mixed from vodka, blue curaçao, cranberry juice, pineapple juice, grenadine, and lime juice.

Both drinks were a tad sweet IMO but they were more agreeable when paired with nibbles. Right off the bat, we raved over the Whitebait (RM36). Deep-fried until crisp in feather-light batter then tossed with togarashi (Japanese spice condiment) and nori strips, the delicate sweetness of those little fishes dipped in an invigorating herbaceous aji verde (Peruvian cilantro sauce) were excellent.

The meaty Portobello Fries (RM34) also scored highly. Drizzled with balsamic glaze and served atop wholegrain mustard aioli, we love chomping on the battered chunks amidst sips of cocktails.

Zingy, punchy flavours from the spicy hot sauce coating of Sriracha Chicken Boxing (RM32) left us ooh-ing and aah-ing over the dish. Spiked with dried chilli, curry leaves and a drizzle of honey, we polished off the lot instantly.

With smoked paprika, lemon juice and Italian chilli flakes accentuating the scrumptious Garlic Prawns (RM46), we barely had time to talk and were more intent on wiping the plate clean.

Lightly torched and served with edamame and mushroom mix, the tender Smoked Duck Breast (RM36) proved on-point. The Soft Shell Crabs (RM58), deep-fried and tossed with in-house seasoning, were equally good accompanied by some Vietnamese dip.

House-made Spanish Meatballs (RM34) with herbed tomato sauce and goat cheese were tasty albeit a tad dry, whilst the sautéed Baby Octopus (RM36) with chilli flakes, bonito and nori strips passed muster.

We found the Seafood Croquette (RM28) underwhelming. The deep-fried seafood patties accompanied by mojo picante (Spanish-style spicy-garlicky red pepper sauce) were too pasty for our liking. We reckon actual bits of seafood for better mouthfeel could dial up its appeal.

Possibly the simplest dish of the evening, the Okra Thai Salad (RM38) emerged as a show-stealer. Topped with tobiko, the tender okra, sautéed white pearl corn, long beans and beef bacon, the cohesive ensemble of varied textures and delicate nuances was irresistible when tossed with Thai dressing.

Stuffed with sun-dried tomato pesto and mozzarella, the golden deep-fried Chicken Piedmontese (RM56) with angel hair pasta was on-point. This crowd-pleasing dish should be a hit with cheese and pasta-loving youngsters.

Sour and spicy, the Soft Shell Crab Sambal Pasta (RM59) was unexpectedly agreeable. The slippery strands of linguine slathered with sambal oelek piqued our interest; matching nicely with the crunchier texture of fried soft shell crab.

Another noteworthy option was seared Lamb Rack (RM99). Deftly prepared at medium rare doneness and served with truffle mash potato and creamy dijon aioli, we picked the bones clean.

A voluptuous parmesan pepper sauce enhanced the tender Beef Wagyu Flank (RM139) along with crispy fries. The juicy beef was sumptuous when relished with the rich savoury sauce.

Decadent Brownies (RM36) with strawberries and salt flakes along with delightful Sago Mango Panna Cotta (RM28) layered with Thai mango and sago pearls heralded a sweetly satisfying ending for us.

For reservations or more information, call Sarastro KL by Millennium, tel: 014-327-3889. Address: 8th Floor, Tribeca Serviced Hotel, Jalan Imbi, Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: Wednesday-Monday, 5pm-1am.