Keep
things simple. That is the culinary philosophy of Executive Chef Logan Terence Lopez
of Bounty KL, the new bistro concept restaurant at The Kuala Lumpur
Journal boutique hotel. From
what we sampled of his handiwork, the simplicity comes with a curveball or two
thrown in to delight and tease the tastebuds.
“I
like to showcase the food without playing around or touching it too much” says
Chef Logan. The kitchen powerhouse enjoys creating dishes without
too many frills or carb fillers. “Simple plating enables diners to focus on the
core ingredient, be it a meat, poultry or seafood offering. We try to use fresh
local ingredients whenever possible.”
Opened last December, Bounty is operated by Hooked
Hospitality Group that also owns Bait in Bangsar. Framed by floor-to-ceiling
windows, Bounty’s interior is outfitted with art deco furnishings loosely
reminiscent of 1960s Kuala Lumpur, with food displays reflective of the
bountiful offerings of its city surroundings. Raw brick walls decorated with repurposed,
multi-colour vintage door grills enhance the vibrant vibes and clean lined
furnishings.
The bistro’s focal point is an open pastry studio helmed by pastry chef Heng
Jung Yang and his team who demonstrate their talents in
front of customers.
It's an added plus point as it means the gourmet breads served here are truly
freshly baked.
According
to Chef Logan, Bounty specialises in an unfussy, contemporary
European (French, Italian and Mediterranean) menu using fresh, quality
ingredients at accessible prices for the average diners. His handiwork fits the
resto's hipster ambiance too.
“The a la carte line-up is changed on a quarterly
basis. With the new menu coming into force, we will proffer new options but
popular choices like Grilled Spatchcock will remain. Expect larger portions for
main courses to give better value and for communal sharing.”
The
dainty, crisp and flaky Salted Cronut with White Truffle Butter served gratis
for dinner is a nice way of starting things on the right note. My previous
encounters with cronut weren't anything to shout about so this creation hit the
spot. Especially when it was smeared with subtly musky truffle butter. Yums!!
Non-beef
eaters who hanker for French onion soup will be pleased to know Chef Logan
whips up a mean French 5 Onion Soup (RM23) with crouton, gratinated cheese and
poached egg. Using a clear base of chicken consommé culled from chicken carcasses and wings, he blends 5
types of onion: red, white and yellow onion, scallion and shallot.
The onions are gently
caramelized in white wine vinegar for the sublime soup. A poached egg with molten yolk, a slice of
melted gruyere cheese crusted
crouton and chopped flat leaf parsley complete the rich and hearty taste
dimension.
Heirloom
Tomato Soup (RM23) with smoked duck bits, capsicum salsa and grated hardboiled
egg is another notable choice. Flat leaf parsley and a slice of baked focaccia
lend extra nuance and texture to the soulful soup which draws inspiration from
the Spanish cold soup of salmorejo (gazpacho’s richer, deeper ‘cousin’ from Córdoba).
There
is more than one way to rustle up a salad and the Octopus Salad (RM38 best for
sharing) proves it. Reinterpreted from a Basque speciality, the mound of roasted
veges: baby carrots, capsicum, zucchini, piquillo pepper, onion, garlic and
potato come liberally doused in mayo and some wild rocket. The citrus marinated
octopus, which has been sous vide for 80 minutes, is lightly grilled and sliced
for the salad. Personally, I hanker for more rocket leaves and less mayo in the
dish.
Baked
Lamb Kofta (RM29) with tomato chutney, harissa dip, Greek yoghurt and mint leaves
pique our tastebuds further. Minced from lamb leg meat, Chef Logan flavours the
patties with cumin, onion, garlic, sumac, coriander, turmeric, paprika and
mint. Once cooked, the spice-suffused patties are delicious with the stealthy
hot harissa dip leaving your tongue a-tingling while the tangy yoghurt cools
things down.
Roasted
Wagyu Bone Marrow (RM32) with bordelaise sauce, basil pesto, onion jam and grilled
bread is an acquired delicacy for some. To enjoy, smear toasted slices of bread
with onion jam then top with flat leaf parsley and cheese shavings. Scoop the
marrow onto the bread slices and you’d find the gloopy clumps tastes
reminiscent of foie gras with a feral aftertaste.
Saffron
and sumac emerged as the condiments of choice in three subsequent dishes:
grilled spatchcock, prawn with risotto and barramundi. The complex spice
profile renders the tender, smoky rum-basted Roasted Spatchcock a riot of
aromatic accents. Complemented by Chilli Butter, Roasted Veggies, Potatoes
& Garden Greens, the juicy bird has become a raveworthy staple with the
lunch crowd.
Seared
on one side and charbroiled on the skin side for crispness, the Barramundi
(RM30) with Sautéed Clams a la Vongole is light on the palate; its delicate sweetness
amplified by the oceanic nuance of cherrystone clams in a pool of
aromatic sauce. Chef Logan reveal some tobacco infused water is used to bestow
hints of spicy smokiness to the concoction of fresh chilli, sliced garlic and
Italian parsley. Cooked with Carotina oil, the sauce is flambéed with
sauternes (sweet French wine) for the finishing touch.
Kimchi paste lends depth and bright robustness to
the Risotto Tiger Prawn (RM49). Marinated in rum, the inherent sweetness of the
prawn medallions forms a sublime affinity with the creamy, nutty short-grained
arborio rice perfumed with saffron.
The
light and mildly sweet Frozen Chestnut Parfait (RM26) is a most welcome treat in
our current sweltering weather but is partly eclipsed by the stellar Hot Vanilla
Soufflé (RM25) infused with Vietnamese cinnamon. One of the trickiest desserts
to accomplish, it easily stole the thunder with its pouffy, foamy lightness and eggy
richness.
Tobacco
again lends some oomph to the Coffee Creme Brûlée (RM25), an ultra-lush creamy
treat which evoked the coffee overtone well.
Bounty (The Journal KL, Jalan Inai, KL)
is opened daily from 6.30am to 11.00pm. For reservations, call tel: 03-2110-5520
or visit www.thekljournalhotel.com/dine for more information.