CHEF KAZUO TAKIZAWA’S NEW GRAND MENU AT ZIPANGU

 

Chef Kazuo Takizawa’s new Grand Menu at Zipangu reads like a love letter to the seasons of Japan, gently kissed with the flavours of Malaysia.

Thoughtfully composed like a haiku, the meal begins with a whisper — a cool, textured tumble of Salmon and Avocado, slick with salted kelp and wasabi soy sauce. It arrives atop a crisp rice cracker lined with fried nori, a poetic symphony of flavour and crunch.

The richness of salmon gives way to the clean zingy note of wasabi, while the umaminess of kelp hums softly in the background like a distant tide. It’s the kind of dish that makes you pause between bites, out of reverence.

Then comes a heartwarming bowl of Chicken and Vegetable Miso Soup that feels like slipping into a cherished coat in the heart of winter. The broth is gentle, faintly smoky. The chicken—salt-marinated, grilled, then eased into the miso—lends depth whilst young corn, lotus root, and shimeji mushrooms tumble through the comforting broth. Takizawa-san calls it “home-style” and it resonates with us.

 

Spicy Salmon Zanmai Roll arrives next, lush with layer upon layer of salmon: raw, cooked, and jewelled with pearly roe. Cucumber, surimi and egg make this sushi roll indulgent without being boastful, the touch of sriracha leaving a gentle glow rather than a blaze. A sip of cold Junmai Daiginjo sake draws the flavours together—clean and fleeting.

The signature mains emerge as a quartet of restrained brilliance. There is the familiar Black Cod Teriyaki and Japanese White Radish yet the fried cod, a nod to Malaysian tastes, holds greater allure thanks to the daikon steeped in Takizawa’s own blend of dashi and teriyaki sauce. A dish updated for its audience without compromising its heritage.

The Grilled Bluefin Tuna Collar is a study in devotion and sustainability. Sourced from a humongous 80kg fish, the collar—often overlooked—is treated with the kind of care and respect reserve for something sacred. 

Marinated in sake, doubanjiang (spicy bean sauce), ginger and secret herbs, then grilled, the rich and meaty tuna collar flesh tastes faintly of the ocean’s depths: hints of minerality mingled with whispers of oyster and brine, soothed by the gentle sweetness of capsicum in a lush, complex sauce.

For me, the conversation-stopper has to be the A5 Japanese Halal Omi Wagyu Tenderloin. Cooked simply, perfectly with a dash of salt—seared until just charred outside, but pink and yielding within.

 
Each bite is warm velvet. On the side, there are fried garlic chips, mustard, wasabi, and a Japanese steak sauce—unnecessary but delightful if variation is called for. Grilled vegetables lend a gentle counterpoint. This is the kind of breath-taking dish that leaves you in awed silence at such masterful culinary perfection.

 
Finally, the crescendo of heat: a Spicy Chicken Curry unlike any you’ll find in Japan. It has swagger, warmth that builds and lingers. Takizawa uses a 30-year-old recipe, refined and reworked with Malaysian heat. The chicken, braised with leek, is tender; the spices—paprika, ginger, garlic—meld into a bold, unapologetic chorus.

Sweetness to soften the ending is Yuzu Sorbet. Icy and fragrant, the yuzu sings—sharp, floral, clean with a kind of silken poise renders by a sticky, almost translucent starch syrup woven through it for unexpected elegance.

In the hands of Chef Kazuo Takizawa, every plate from Zipangu’s Grand Menu tells a story—seasonal and soulful. Each creation soothes as much as it stirs.

For reservations at Zipangu, call tel: 03-2032 2388. Address: Level 1, Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Sultan Ismail, KL. https://www.facebook.com/shangrilaKL
 
 

NEW TEMPTATIONS BECKON AT KAZUMA

Oden is one of those rare but delicious specialities few Japanese restaurants serve in the Klang Valley. Hence I was stoked when I discovered Oden Moriawase (RM22) is now available at Kazuma Japanese restaurant.

This homey, heartwarming stew comes with 6 types of Japanese fish cakes (chikuwa being my favourite), radish chunks, a hardboiled egg and toothsome konnyaku. Also known as konjac, the jiggly yet firm jelly-like blocks are made from the starch of devil’s tongue plant.

Kazuma’s chef Tsutomu Haneishi has also refreshed some offerings for the latest menu. Right off the bat, there’s now a small selection of Japanese appetisers to complement your drinks of choice.

We like the crisp-crunchiness of Koebi Karaage (RM15), deep-fried small shrimps and the succulence of Salmon Tataki Carpaccio (RM30), seared salmon sashimi with black sesame dressing.

Naturally, crowd-pleasing favourites such as Hama Sashimi (5 types of sliced raw fish: RM90 – 2 pcs each type, RM125 – 3 pcs each type) and Potato Salad (RM20) with creamy Japanese mayo have been retained.

For the former, diners may choose from maguro (tuna), salmon, hotate (scallop), hamachi (yellowtail), tako (octopus) and amaebi (sweet shrimp). Rest assured the Kazuma team strives to source the freshest seafood from around the world that measures up to the restaurant’s quality standards.

 

Our penchant for sushi was amply fulfilled on our recent visit with the introduction of Special Nigiri Sushi Tokujyou (RM87) into Kazuma’s new menu. The sea-fresh sweetness of those tender slices of maguro chutoro, hamachi, salmon, hotate, amaebi, unagi and ikura (vinegared rice topped with salmon roe) was certainly on-point.

Should you prefer cooked stuff, we recommend sampling Unagi Yanagawa (RM65), scrumptious simmered eel with vegetable and egg. Served bubbling hot in a little cast iron pot, we love every bite of the subtly sweet eel juxtaposed against the ethereal cloud-like softness of the egg.

Tendon (RM34), a wholesome meal in one consisting of steamed rice topped with assorted tempura, pickles and soup is another notably classic choice to satisfy the tastebuds. The mildly sweet sauce drizzled over the tempura and rice proved appetising, enticing us to polish off everything.

Heartier servings with splendid value for money are the new additions of Teishoku Sets. These beautifully composed set meals come with chawan mushi (steamed egg custard), steamed rice, miso soup, salad, pickles and fruits to accompany a choice of mains.

Having savoured Grilled Chicken Shioyaki/Teriyaki (RM35) and Unagi Kabayaki & Sashimi (RM70), we’d say both stellar options should hit the spot.

For vegetarians, Kazuma proffers a Vegetarian Bento (RM50). The tempting set comprised tofu steak, assorted vegetable tempura, pumpkin croquette, simmered vegetable, futomaki sushi and inari sushi. A visually and palatably pleasing set guaranteed to leave you happily satisfied.

Noodle enthusiasts aren’t forgotten either. We find it hard to decide whether Tempura Chasoba (RM22) or Shoyu Ramen and Inari Sushi (RM25) is better.

The former proffers springy buckwheat noodles which can be served hot or cold, accompanied by delectably crisp, airy-light battered prawns and vegetables.

If you prefer soupy noodles then the latter will hit the spot. We found the springy ramen in shoyu broth lighter on the palate, with the supplementary piece of inari sushi providing textural contrast.

Our requisite sweetener to conclude proceedings was Kurogoma (black sesame) Ice Cream (RM15) but other options available include Matcha Ice Cream (RM15) or Yuzu Sherbet (RM18).

For reservations, call Kazuma Japanese Restaurant, tel:03-2149 2666. Address: Level 1, Wisma Concorde, Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Sultan Ismail, KL. Business hours: Mon- Sat: 11.30am – 3pm, 6pm – 10pm. Closed on Sunday and public holidays.

ALL TUNA TREATS AT IKETERU, HILTON KUALA LUMPUR

Highly revered by the Japanese, maguro or tuna is the king of fish when it comes to savouring sashimi and sushi at any sushi-ya (sushi restaurant) worth its salt. The bidding for this deep-sea fish in Japan is fiercely competitive with record-breaking sums paid each year for the biggest tuna.

 

When invited to witness Hilton Kuala Lumpur’s Japanese Executive Chef Masami Okamoto perform a live tuna-cutting demonstration at Iketeru Japanese Restaurant, it was an opportunity no foodie can refuse.

 

Weighing in at 30kg, the tuna’s sleek, torpedo-shaped body was an awesome sight to behold. Chef Okamoto soon held us spellbound when he set about carving and filleting the huge fish with practiced finesse, his sharp knife cutting through the tuna as if it was butter.

 

 

 

Before long, he was deftly slicing up fresh, deep-red slices of chutoro for our sampling. Every slice tasted soft yet toothsomely succulent with an imperceptible flinty sweetness to it. The chef also hand-crafted dainty pieces of maguro sushi to tickle our tastebuds before we sat down to Iketeru’s All Tuna Course Menu.

 

 

 

 

The duo of curtain-raisers featured Tuna Sumiso Sauce and Tuna, Avocado, and Tomato with Wasabi Mayo Sauce. Both appetisers showcased how different preparation techniques resulted in palate-pleasing morsels to pique diners’ interest.

 

I enjoyed the latter for its simplicity as the diced tuna with little avocado and tomato wedges were lightly dressed in zingy wasabi sauce. However, the former proved interesting too as the cooked tuna paired with some kelp came anointed with sumiso sauce – a mixture of white miso, sugar and vinegar.

 

After these profusion of rich flavours, we sipped on Tuna Belly Soup. The clear, savoury broth was conceived to cleanse the palate yet its full-bodied nuance was unmistakable, thanks to the meaty tuna belly immersed in it. Tofu and negi (Japanese leek) lent textural contrast to the overall dish.

 

A generous serving of Tuna Sashimi then enlivened our dinner further. Some of the raw tuna I savoured au naturel whilst others I dipped in shoyu and wrapped in shiso (perilla leaf) with a dab of wasabi for added punch. Slivers of gari or Japanese pickled ginger came in handy to temper the fish’s inherent richness.

 

 

Teppanyaki-style Tuna with Truffle Teriyaki Sauce was the night’s stellar show-stopper. Although my serving of tuna was a tad overdone (a seared crust with a raw core would have done the fish greater justice), its sumptuousness was dialled up by the accompanying truffle-infused teriyaki sauce.

 

 

Reeling us in further was Deep-fried Tuna Tatsuta Age with Spicy Miso Dip. Marinated earlier in soya sauce, the deep-fried tuna with its nice crisp crust boasted distinct savouriness reminiscent of fu yue (Chinese fermented beancurd). It was a sublime treat when relished with the tangy-sweet-savoury red miso dip and grilled shishito pepper.

 

More of the fresh tuna returned to delight us; roughly chopped and sprinkled with sesame seeds then set atop white rice, we valiantly found tummy space to fit in the Oshokuji Tekka Don with Miso Soup. Again, this no-frills approach was an apt reminder that a prime quality fish such as tuna is best treated with respect and doesn’t need frills to shine.

Black Sesame Ice Cream with fine watermelon and dragonfruit dices wrapped up our exclusive tuna dining experience on a high.

 

 

 

 

 

The All Tuna Course Menu is priced at RM480 nett per person inclusive free flow of house red and white wine, juices and soft drinks, and at RM300 nett per adult for food only.

For reservations, please call Iketeru @Hilton Kuala Lumpur, tel: 03-2264 2264 or visit www.life.hiltonkl.com