CREATIVITY RULES AT NEWLY REFRESHED TOH YUEN

Familiar yet fresh sums up the newly renovated Toh Yuen restaurant. Modern elegance with contemporary touches blends artfully with traditional accents of red and understated decorative elements to create a serene, sophisticated dining space.

 

With a seating capacity of 150 and four private dining rooms, Toh Yuen is ideal for casual and special outings.

Among the culinary gems awaiting diners is Roasted Peking Silver Hill London Duck (RM168 nett for half duck, RM268 nett whole duck). The Wagyu of ducks are meticulously roasted using a customised oven then carved tableside. Wrapped in delicate pancakes, the meltingly tender duck is accompanied by fresh cucumber strips, spring onions, and rich hoisin sauce; a delectable treat you’re unlikely to forget.

The remaining duck meat is then transformed into delicious Braised Shredded Duck with Ee Fu Noodle. Truffle oil adds a luxe touch to the silky noodles. Crisp cornets stuffed with duck meat and other dishes are available from the restaurant too.

For an overview of its dim sum repertoire, Toh Yuen offers a Dim Sum Lunch Set at RM99 nett per person. The culinary team puts a lot of efforts into creating exquisite morsels such as the goldfish-shape Steamed Cod Dumpling with Chicken Broth (so good I was tempted to lick the plate clean), Steamed Siew Mai with Hokkaido Scallop (an on-point showcase of bouncy-tender textures), and delicate Steamed Spinach Dumpling with Shrimp and Wolfberries (love the translucent skin yielding to a clean vegetal nuance touched with the fleeting sweetness of shrimp and wolfberries).

One of the show-stealers to gain two thumbs up is Baked Chicken Tart with Abalone. The flaky pastry encasing a mildly sweet-savoury chicken filling topped with mini abalone is memorable for its resemblance to char siu sou.

Even the soup course is levelled up with a mini pumpkin filled with Braised Crab Meat Broth with Scallop and Asparagus. Delicate flavours aplenty, with subtle crunch of the asparagus and supple-soft diced scallop bestowing textural interest.

Should you decide to go à la carte, we highly recommend sampling Toh Yuen’s signature offerings. Notable specialities such as Sweet and Sour Diced Chicken with Figs stood out for its enticing sauce and palate-pleasing fried chicken pieces paired with fresh sweet figs, and the supremely tender Stir-Fried Wagyu Beef with Porcini Mushrooms and Trio of Peppercorn.

Sweet with on-point doneness, the Steamed Pomfret with Pickled Red Chillies and Minced Ginger is divine. Kudos to the chef for the tantalising combination of robustly flavoured toppings.

The springy Golden Butter Prawns with Cashew Nuts appears par for the course. I’d wish the chef has given this offering a little twist, just to set it apart from the competition.  

It’s nice to conclude on a high with a distinct Egg Custard Pastry (deliciously flaky and custard-soft filling win every time). Even the Chilled Mango Puree with Sago and Pomelo finds favour with its just-nice sweetness.

Open daily from 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 6.30 pm to 10 pm, reservations at Toh Yuen are highly recommended. 

To book a table or more information, contact Toh Yuen, Hilton Petaling Jaya at tel: 03 7955 9122 or WhatsApp 016 216 0414, or email PETHI_FB@hilton.com, or visit eatdrinkhilton.com.

R-EEL DELIGHTS AT TIEN

 
Export-grade live eels from China took centrestage at Tien restaurant, prepared in four different ways as part of the month-long ‘Flavours of Suria’ dining experiences at Suria KLCC mall recently.

In keeping with its "Always Something New” tagline, Suria KLCC invited local media members to hands-on workshops and exclusive tastings at tenant restaurants: Din, Fuel Shack, Cili Kampung, TGI Fridays, Imperial Chakri Palace and Tien.

We sampled a special seasonal menu of fresh Chinese eels at Tien by Putien, where four distinctive eel dishes were served. Flown-in from Guangzhou, we learned the eels are also exported to Japan. 

Fed with codfish powder, the eels are raised in open-air, clean water ponds. Putien uses 70 cm long eels weighing 600-800g each as they are fleshier with better bite. It’s the second year Tien is promoting these eels and the promotional offerings will be available until end October.

Our lunch began with Fresh Eel Cooked in Spring Water. It only took about ten minutes to cook the eel in spring water with spring onion, goji berries and ginger. Once done, we tasted the eel chunks which were surprisingly chewy. Its natural clear sweetness was notable when we tasted the broth and meat.

Rich, savoury soybean sauce produced in the city of Puning was instrumental in the preparation of Baked Eel with Puning Bean Sauce. Stir-fried with garlic, ginger and onion, the delicately sweet eel chunks were superbly flavourful thanks to the beany sauce and aromatics. Not surprising it was the most popular dish last year with Tien diners.

Although the generous amount of garlic was welcomed, a lesser amount of Yangjiang soybean sauce for the Steamed Eel in Garlic and Soy Bean Sauce would have been great. But that’s my own preference as others may like how the chef prepped it.

Sichuan peppercorns, dried chillies, garlic and ginger bestowed this year’s new Spicy Pan-fried Eel with some tongue-tingling ‘ma la’ power and spicy heat. This was another crowd favourite as most of us enjoyed the dish’s robust chilli-hotness.

All the eel dishes are priced at RM138 for a regular portion and will be available until end October.

For reservations at Tien by Putien, call tel: 03 2181 2839. Address: Lot 434, 4^th Floor, Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur City Centre. For more information on Suria KLCC mall, visit www.suriaklcc.com.my or www.facebook.com/SuriaKLCCMall. 

NEW CHEF’S SPECIALITIES WITH PLAYFUL FLAIR AT YUN HOUSE

 
Familiar yet fresh. Inventive yet timeless. Chef Jimmy Wong and his Yun House team have rendered fresh Hong Kong-style twists to some classic recipes, resulting in visually striking and tastefully exquisite dishes with playful spins to captivate guests.

Presented on a chic canvas of modern tableware, we readily succumbed to Crispy Rice Vermicelli with Foie Gras and Oyster. How could we fault the artful melding of shatter-crisp texture with luxuriantly rich foie gras and the mollusk's plump suppleness?

Instead of the usual square deep-fried toast, we nibbled on lightly breaded, ball-shaped Prawn Toast with Caviar. Tiny pops of brininess from the lustrous caviar pearls heightened our enjoyment of the springy prawn stuffing and crispy toast.

Likewise, we enthused over the slick black vinegar sauce which exuded mellow, well-rounded tanginess; a nice masterstroke to complement the Mini Beef Steak, tempering its meaty richness.

The spongy-softness of fish maw segued to the delicacy of bamboo charcoal skin when we bit into the Fish Maw Dumpling with Cordycep Flower and Black Garlic. Umami accent from cordycep flowers merged with earthy complexity of black garlic on our palate the more we chewed.

Diminutive dices of barbecued duck lent an unexpectedly delicious twist to the filling for the red topped, wispy Deep-fried Yam Puff with Roasted Barbecued Duck. The faintly savoury-sweet taste of nam yue (fermented red beancurd) was discernible when we devoured the yam puff.

Primed up with a whole deep-fried Alaskan Crab Meat Wonton, we lapped up every drop of the stimulating Hot and Sour Soup with Sea Scallops and Tofu. Hats off to the chef for employing the scrumptious dumpling and scallops to level up the crowd-pleasing broth.

Equally stellar was Steamed Black Cod with Chopped Chilli. We were reeled in by the fish's natural sweetness and satiny smooth texture, touched with an aromatic superior soy sauce dressing.

Soul-satisfying Braised Hong Kong Ee-Fu Noodles with Wild Mushrooms and Truffle Paste left us replete. Nuanced with lush woodsy and musky accents, we slurped up every salubrious strand.

Miraculously, our close to bursting tummies found room to fit in the luscious Yin Yang Black Sesame Ice Cream with Chilled Almond Milk. Redolent with the distinct nuttiness of both ingredients, the alluring dessert proved too irresistible especially since I'm partial to almond milk.

Suffice to say, the selection of new chef’s specialities are befittingly worthy of the Michelin selected restaurant.

To reserve a table at Yun House, contact tel: 03 2382 8602 or email: diningreservations.kualalumpur@fourseasons.com.