Showing posts with label bread. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bread. Show all posts

Friday, January 26, 2024

MORE THAN JUST DESSERT AT MADHATTER

 

Banker turned baker Marcus Low shows his creative culinary prowess transcends the dessert realm at the new MadHatter Boulangerie in Kepong.

The 2015 MasterChef Asia First Runner-up remains a wizard at conjuring sumptuous treats as evidenced by the array of luscious dessert creations he plied us with during our visit recently.

Not only does Marcus uses premium and locally sourced ingredients, his artful, judicious pairing of cogent and cohesive flavours readily sets him apart from other pâtissiers in the city.
 
Upon sampling Marcus’ distinctive dessert creations such as Raspberry Rose Lychee, Chocolate and Cherry, Local Chestnut & Coffee Tart, Chocolate Calamansi, Apple Cinnamon and Banana Bread with Caramelised Cardamom Cream, we find ourselves spellbound by his superior skills and knowledge.
Striving to use more locally sourced ingredients, Marcus tells us his supply of rare jungle fruits and other exotic produce is procured from the Orang Asli community and through like-minded partners such as Langit Collective and Chocolate Concierge.
 
A good example is Bidara or Indian jujube, a local fruit that’s rarely if ever used in French pâtisserie. Instead of raisins, Marcus gives bidara the major role in the fruity filling for his Pain Aux Bidara (one of the distinctive items found in MadHatter Baked Boulangerie).
Marcus who made his maiden business debut in 2017, opened his MadHatter Desserts shop in Uptown Damansara to much social media fanfare. Now, post-pandemic times has driven him to streamline and relocate; he is focusing on providing dessert solutions for businesses whilst his ‘food with a purpose’ philosophy continues through attempts to include more locally sourced ingredients into his creations.

The new MadHatter menu also offers a selection of hot dishes in addition to dessert. Top of the list is MadHatter Signature Focaccia with Deli Cold Cuts (RM28). According to Marcus, the two distinctive charcuterie items: Smoked Paprika & Cocoa Husk Lamb and Ayam Kampung Ham with Turmeric Leaves are made on premise. We find the localised tastes punching above their weight; the emerging accents palate-pleasing and instantly cognizant.
Our enlightening culinary sojourn continues with Faux Liver Paté with Cerapu Jam. Whipped up from an ingenious blend of cashew, nam yue (red fermented beancurd) and blackened kulim (jungle garlic or Scorodocarpus borneensis Becc.), the meatless spread is winsome. We like its nutty creaminess accentuated by complex nuances of nam yue and kulim.

Spread onto toasty bread slices and cocoa husk crisps, we couldn’t stop raving over how well it paired with the cerapu (button mangosteen) jam’s delicate tart-sweetness.

According to Marcus, the cocoa husk crisps we tried is made from ground cocoa husk. “Cocoa husk is high in protein and pectin. Ground into powder, it can be used to make noodles and bread just like flour.”
Tasting somewhat woody-earthy like mushroom, the thin Cocoa Husk Crisps serve as a perfect foil for the deliciously creamy Smoked Mackerel Paté studded with salmon roe.
Fast gaining favour among local gourmands thanks to its musky-garlicky-truffle scent, kulim (another local fruit) when infused in olive oil, bestowed depths of flavour in the freshly baked and sliced Focaccia with Tomato and Kulim Olive Oil.
Adventurous eaters should wade into the boldly inventive Deep Fried Pomfret Open Sandwich with Tempoyak Mayo (RM32). Much to our surprise, the fish’s inherent sweetness held its own amidst the pungency of the creamy fermented durian mayo. Possibly not for the faint-hearted but this is a notable option if you seek something off the beaten culinary path.
Offal fans will find much to love in the Beef Tongue Stew with Swiss Cheese, Chimichurri & Bagel (RM36). Irresistible chewy-soft textures and unapologetically big, hearty flavours rule here. The accompanying coleslaw adds refreshing contrast to the ensemble.
Redolent with the warmth of spices, the Johor style Kacang Pool proved on-point. Topped with a sunny side up egg, the comforting bean stew induced us to lap up everything.
 
There is nothing coy about the Kukur Mushroom Pate Pizza Focaccia (RM22). Earthy-woody nuances abound in every mouthful – something mushroom enthusiasts will appreciate.
So if you’re tired of the ho-hum café fare, go give your tastebuds a rejuvenating jolt with the noteworthy and one-of-a-kind savoury and sweet treats from MadHatter.

For more information, please call MadHatter, tel: 03-6734 9632/012-370 4327. Address: 26, Jalan Medan Putra 4, Medan Putra Business Centre, Kuala Lumpur.

Sunday, January 07, 2024

DANISH COMFORT FOOD AT DENHYGGE

Smørrebrød
or sandwiches is popularly eaten in Denmark. Cold dishes are also prevalent according to Niels Jensen, the owner of Denhygge, a Danish restaurant.

Together with his wife Olga, Jensen takes great pride in serving traditional, home-style Danish comfort food at Denhygge. 
Hygge (pronounced hyoo-guh or hoo-ga) is the sense of comfort, cosiness and conviviality; creating a feeling of contentment and well-being within the Danish home. It’s part and parcel of the Danish lifestyle and the Jensens hope their customers will enjoy an immersive hygge experience at Denhygge.
 
After retiring from the corporate world, Jensen decided to open Denhygge with the aim of introducing Danish food to local customers here. “Sandwiches, cold dishes and pork are commonly eaten. However, we serve some hot specialities as well,” said Jensen.
 
Opened in November 2022, Denhygge boasts clean lines, austere décor within: an open-plan kitchen served as the key focal point alongside a faux fireplace with mantelpiece. A spiral staircase decked with miniature flags, rustic wood accents, and large picture windows blend cohesively to create a welcoming, homely setting.

A made-to-order artisanal nuts and seed-laden dark rye bread forms the basis for their range of sandwiches. Accentuated with a mildly sweet and aromatic curry spiced mayo, sliced red onion and crispy pork lard, the Marinated Herring on Rye Bread with Egg (regular RM26, large RM32) won instant approval with its tantalizingly tart-tangy-briny-sweet accents.
 
The Roast Beef on Rye Bread (regular RM24, large RM30) also proved on-point. We gave two thumbs up to the tender, blush-pink slices of roast beef topped with creamy remoulade, zingy horseradish and fried onion.

Delectable sliced pork belly seasoned with spices played a leading role in the delicious Rullepølse (regular RM22, large RM28); layered atop rye bread with onion and diced aspic. Those diminutive dices of savoury meat jelly packed sublime, full-bodied flavour thanks to it being a solidified reduction of pork jus and browned onion.
 
Equally notable was the Pork Liver Pate (regular RM20, large RM25) sandwich. Lending textural contrasts to it were pickled cucumber and crisp-fried bacon pieces; the flavoursome combination balanced out the paté’s indulgent richness.
 
Jensen also offered his fish cakes and cubes of pork in aspic to sample. The Danish version of fish cakes incorporates potato mash in it, rendering its texture softer compared to local one which is springier.
As for the pork cubes, they were brimming with rich meaty flavours. Unsurprisingly to be honest as Jensen had devoted hours of preparation into its making.
Hot dishes are offered and changed often in the Jensens’ attempt to cater to local patrons. During our visit, the week’s speciality of Stegt flæsk or Danish-style Fried Pork Belly (RM55) could have been a stand-in for local roast pork. Served with boiled potatoes and creamy parsley sauce, the customary Danish Christmas dish was rather delectable albeit texture-wise, we found it harder and drier.

Danish dessert tends to be simple as underscored by the Danish-style Apple Pie (RM18). The apple compote used a mixture of red and green apples for the pie filling’s requisite sweet-sour taste profile. Served with crushed macaroons (almond flour cookies), red currant jelly and lightly sweetened and vanilla-accented whipped cream, the light dessert was a nice option to conclude our maiden visit to Denhygge.

For reservations at DENHYGGE DANISH RESTAURANT, call mobile no: 012-824 0020. Address: F13, Empire Damansara Perdana, Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Business hours: Mon-Sat 10 am to 10 pm (last order 9 pm), closed on Sundays.

 

Thursday, December 14, 2023

A REFINED TASTE OF CULTURE AT FLOUR

 

Allow spice master and culinary maestro Yogesh Upadhyay a.k.a. Chef Yogi take you on a whirlwind tour of India, culturally and gastronomically at Flour.
Throw whatever you presumably know about Indian food and let Chef Yogi change your perspective of Indian cuisine. The chef-restaurateur is redefining the food of his native land for the future in his own intrepid way, where “each and every course at Flour is a planned journey of the food feeding the body; the intention feeding the soul.”

His mind-changing, progressive French-Indian offerings are so future-forward, only adventurous and liberal diners will find his specialities acceptable.

According to Chef Yogi, “the Indian continent consists of different regions and each has its own unique flavours and ingredients. Likewise, each course in Flour’s menu is my interpretation on how Indian food has evolved whilst remaining faithful to its roots.
 
“Indian specialities are characterised by the use of spices, not chilli. You’d discover fresh narratives on the judicious and diverse use of spices here, learn about the origins of regional dishes and delve into vegetarianism which is inherent to India’s foodscape. I’m serving a taste of culture, not just food at Flour.”

Housed in a charming, white-washed bungalow in the heart of KL since 2020, Flour was initially located at Damansara Heights some seven years ago. The sleek and contemporary interior is almost monochromatic in its colour scheme, with some eye-catching artworks and a water fountain serving as key focal points.

According to the Rajasthan-born chef, “The restaurant name was inspired by flour, an essential ingredient for the making of bread. Without flour, there’d be no Indian food.”

Although Chef Yogi was roped into his father’s restaurant business in his teens, the rebel in him opted to pursue hotel management and French culinary arts. Determined to make his own mark, he relocated to Dubai and ventured into the aviation industry.

In 2014 Yogi came to Malaysia, to work for Air Asia X. He met and married his wife who then encouraged him to open Flour. “She said my culinary efforts changed her perception of Indian food and I should showcase my skills to a broader audience.”

Chef Yogi said “Flour brings the future of Indian cuisine to the present, based on my knowledge and research on the past, using modern French techniques and thoughtfully composed degustation-style menus.”

The chef will personally share interesting facts on the historical aspects and origins of the food served, with every element down to the smallest details meticulously planned. “I’m the guide on the culinary journey; to help diners gain greater understanding of Indian cuisine. Dining here is more than just an experience; it’s a taste of culture.”

From the a la carte menu, the stellar opening of smoky Quail Tikka (RM35++) left us spellbound. Spiced curd-marinated quails were tandoor-roasted to perfection, rendering the quail tender and juicy down to the bone. A side dip of housemade curd dotted with tamarind lent a lush, appetising dimension.

“Quail and game birds are native to India; in the old days, people used to forage for them as the native protein source” said Chef Yogi. “The secret lies in mustard seed oil, to give the quail deep-seated flavour and incomparable aroma.”


Unsurprisingly, his adroit skills shone through in the Vegetable Charcoal Roast (RM38++). Banking on a useful tip gleaned from the Persians, he infused rose water into the saucy base of housemade curd and bird’s eye chilli oil, letting it bring the inherent vegetal-fruitiness of the roasted baby eggplants, capsicum, and cherry tomatoes to full bloom onto our palate.

Italian Marzano tomatoes formed the backbone to Flour’s legendary Butter Chicken, listed as Spring Chicken & Tomato (RM68++) in the menu. Lightly spiced with green cardamom powder and fenugreek leaves, Chef Yogi had cooked those tomatoes to such velvety consistency, it seemed like he had unleashed a burst of brilliant sunshine onto our tastebuds, through the vermillion sauce.

Dousing that sumptuous sauce onto Jeera Rice (RM18++) then savouring the cumin-speckled rice, as we picked the bones clean off those deliciously tender chunks of spring chicken tikka, was heavenly.
How could we not lick the plate clean when the stellar dish of Konju Moilee appeared. Every exquisite bite of the charcoal-grilled prawns in mustard seed-accented coconut milk sauce and bird’s eye chilli oil knocked our socks off.
Also jostling for our attention and tummy space was Ajwaini Baingan (RM55++), cute roasted baby eggplants in a robust sauce of onion, tomato with ajwain and thyme.
 
We couldn’t help but soak up that bright, tantalising sauce with freshly made Laccha (RM15++), thin, multi-layered wholewheat bread which the chef referred to as the croissant of India.
For textural contrast, we returned to sample those irresistible dishes again with pieces of feather-light Puri (RM15++), fried wholewheat bread with semolina, with equally agreeable results.
Served with basil curd, crisp-fried shallot graced the bowl of Mutton Biryani (RM90++); a show-stopping speciality that could have easily left us replete on its own. Cubes of meltingly tender mutton embedded within the saffron-scented basmati rice, proved second-to-none in the taste department.

Wrapping up our lavish cultural passage to India came Kubhanika Meetha (RM35++), a dainty white apricot tart which the chef told us to eat in one bite. Its ephemeral sweetness was a most befitting masterstroke to conclude our insightful discovery of Indian culture through Flour’s refined repertoire.
For reservations at FLOUR, tel: 03-4065 7400, 012-9600 053. Address: No.12 & 14, Jalan Kamuning, Off Jalan Imbi, Kuala Lumpur.

 

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