MORE THAN NORMAL PUB GRUB AT THE BELL & CROWN

 

Sizzling Mutton Tava Biryani (RM35) is not your average pub grub when you step into The Bell & Crown. According to owner Dato’ Vicky A., he included it in as he prefers sitting down to a hot meal as a regular pub goer. When he took over The Bell & Crown, he ensured biryani – one of his favourite dishes – is listed in the menu.

“Our mutton biryani is fast gaining popularity here,” said Dato’ Vicky. “It’s prepared Mumbai-style. First, the mutton is pressure-cooked then roasted slightly. We stir-fry the mutton with ghee, onion and freshly ground Indian spices in an iron skillet until aromatic. Everything is subsequently added to basmati rice and cooked in claypot.”

Served with thick, house-made yoghurt, the spice-scented biryani made our mouths water as we stirred up the fluffy rice. The heady aroma and mildly gamey taste of tender mutton and deeply flavourful rice proved immensely satisfying.

Earlier, our evening started with a bang thanks to some Pigs in Blanket (RM25). The cocktail pork sausages wrapped in bacon were moreish; a splendid complement for my Classic Margarita (RM27).

The shaken concoction of triple sec, tequila and lime was rather potent but I made it last with measured sips throughout the evening. The Bell & Crown serves three glasses of Classic Cocktails at RM78+ thus enabling its patrons to indulge in cocktail hour without breaking the bank.

A good selection of light nibbles and heftier mains, comprising classic Brit pub grub and more Asian-inspired fare is available to keep hunger pangs at bay. We were pleasantly surprised to find Penang Loh Bak (RM22) on the menu. Although the deep-fried rolls came a tad over-fried, we were relieved to find the five spice marinated pork, yam and carrots wrapped in beancurd sheets up to scratch taste-wise.

Another notable appetiser is Chicken 65 (RM22), cooked Mumbai-style. Marinated overnight with ground Indian spices, the bite-size chicken cubes are lightly battered and fried with onion, curry leaves and dried chillies until crisp.

Every morsel we tried titillated our tastebuds with a cornucopia of bright, bold spice accents; an inducement to eat and drink more amidst convivial merriment.

However, the unexpected show-stealer turned out to be the cheesy Chicken Tikka Pizza (RM20). We thoroughly enjoyed partaking the elongated pizza with delectable chunks of tandoori chicken and generous topping of melted mozzarella, parmesan and cheddar.

Those hankering for Bangers, Mash & Beans (RM36) should be happy to know The Bell & Crown proffers a choice of beef, pork, lamb & cranberry or chicken sausages alongside lumpy mashed potatoes and Heinz baked beans. The hearty serving passed muster and was par for the course IMHO.

Décor-wise, the frontage flaunts charming vintage Tudor-style windows and monochrome checkerboard floors. The warmly-lit interior incorporates a long bar, plenty of dark wood trims, cosy booth seats and whitewashed walls adorned with sepia-tone prints and antique lamps.

For reservations at The Bell & Crown, contact tel: 016 964 0786. Address: 34, Lorong Rahim Kajai 14, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur.

A REFINED TASTE OF CULTURE AT FLOUR

 

Allow spice master and culinary maestro Yogesh Upadhyay a.k.a. Chef Yogi take you on a whirlwind tour of India, culturally and gastronomically at Flour.

Throw whatever you presumably know about Indian food and let Chef Yogi change your perspective of Indian cuisine. The chef-restaurateur is redefining the food of his native land for the future in his own intrepid way, where “each and every course at Flour is a planned journey of the food feeding the body; the intention feeding the soul.”

His mind-changing, progressive French-Indian offerings are so future-forward, only adventurous and liberal diners will find his specialities acceptable.

According to Chef Yogi, “the Indian continent consists of different regions and each has its own unique flavours and ingredients. Likewise, each course in Flour’s menu is my interpretation on how Indian food has evolved whilst remaining faithful to its roots.

 

“Indian specialities are characterised by the use of spices, not chilli. You’d discover fresh narratives on the judicious and diverse use of spices here, learn about the origins of regional dishes and delve into vegetarianism which is inherent to India’s foodscape. I’m serving a taste of culture, not just food at Flour.”

Housed in a charming, white-washed bungalow in the heart of KL since 2020, Flour was initially located at Damansara Heights some seven years ago. The sleek and contemporary interior is almost monochromatic in its colour scheme, with some eye-catching artworks and a water fountain serving as key focal points.

According to the Rajasthan-born chef, “The restaurant name was inspired by flour, an essential ingredient for the making of bread. Without flour, there’d be no Indian food.”

Although Chef Yogi was roped into his father’s restaurant business in his teens, the rebel in him opted to pursue hotel management and French culinary arts. Determined to make his own mark, he relocated to Dubai and ventured into the aviation industry.

In 2014 Yogi came to Malaysia, to work for Air Asia X. He met and married his wife who then encouraged him to open Flour. “She said my culinary efforts changed her perception of Indian food and I should showcase my skills to a broader audience.”

Chef Yogi said “Flour brings the future of Indian cuisine to the present, based on my knowledge and research on the past, using modern French techniques and thoughtfully composed degustation-style menus.”

The chef will personally share interesting facts on the historical aspects and origins of the food served, with every element down to the smallest details meticulously planned. “I’m the guide on the culinary journey; to help diners gain greater understanding of Indian cuisine. Dining here is more than just an experience; it’s a taste of culture.”

From the a la carte menu, the stellar opening of smoky Quail Tikka (RM35++) left us spellbound. Spiced curd-marinated quails were tandoor-roasted to perfection, rendering the quail tender and juicy down to the bone. A side dip of housemade curd dotted with tamarind lent a lush, appetising dimension.

“Quail and game birds are native to India; in the old days, people used to forage for them as the native protein source” said Chef Yogi. “The secret lies in mustard seed oil, to give the quail deep-seated flavour and incomparable aroma.”

Unsurprisingly, his adroit skills shone through in the Vegetable Charcoal Roast (RM38++). Banking on a useful tip gleaned from the Persians, he infused rose water into the saucy base of housemade curd and bird’s eye chilli oil, letting it bring the inherent vegetal-fruitiness of the roasted baby eggplants, capsicum, and cherry tomatoes to full bloom onto our palate.

Italian Marzano tomatoes formed the backbone to Flour’s legendary Butter Chicken, listed as Spring Chicken & Tomato (RM68++) in the menu. Lightly spiced with green cardamom powder and fenugreek leaves, Chef Yogi had cooked those tomatoes to such velvety consistency, it seemed like he had unleashed a burst of brilliant sunshine onto our tastebuds, through the vermillion sauce.

Dousing that sumptuous sauce onto Jeera Rice (RM18++) then savouring the cumin-speckled rice, as we picked the bones clean off those deliciously tender chunks of spring chicken tikka, was heavenly.

How could we not lick the plate clean when the stellar dish of Konju Moilee appeared. Every exquisite bite of the charcoal-grilled prawns in mustard seed-accented coconut milk sauce and bird’s eye chilli oil knocked our socks off.

Also jostling for our attention and tummy space was Ajwaini Baingan (RM55++), cute roasted baby eggplants in a robust sauce of onion, tomato with ajwain and thyme.

 

We couldn’t help but soak up that bright, tantalising sauce with freshly made Laccha (RM15++), thin, multi-layered wholewheat bread which the chef referred to as the croissant of India.

For textural contrast, we returned to sample those irresistible dishes again with pieces of feather-light Puri (RM15++), fried wholewheat bread with semolina, with equally agreeable results.

Served with basil curd, crisp-fried shallot graced the bowl of Mutton Biryani (RM90++); a show-stopping speciality that could have easily left us replete on its own. Cubes of meltingly tender mutton embedded within the saffron-scented basmati rice, proved second-to-none in the taste department.

Wrapping up our lavish cultural passage to India came Kubhanika Meetha (RM35++), a dainty white apricot tart which the chef told us to eat in one bite. Its ephemeral sweetness was a most befitting masterstroke to conclude our insightful discovery of Indian culture through Flour’s refined repertoire.

For reservations at FLOUR, tel: 03-4065 7400, 012-9600 053. Address: No.12 & 14, Jalan Kamuning, Off Jalan Imbi, Kuala Lumpur.

 

GOOD EATS WITH HIGH SPIRITS AT D’ATAS BISTRO

Lunch started with a dramatic flair on our maiden visit to the newly opened D’Atas Bistro. Presented in a smoking cloche, the signature D’Atas Whisky Sour (RM40) left us smitten with its tangy, boozy taste with a tinge of smoky peat.

It was a captivating twist to the classic cocktail of John Jameson whiskey, fresh lemon juice, gula melaka syrup and Angostura bitters crowned with frothy egg white and a dried orange slice.

Ladies will adore Fly with Chan (RM38) – an Insta-worthy tipple of shaken gin, raspberry puree, limoncello, lavender syrup, lemon juice and egg white prettied up with edible flowers.

Teetotallers can seek solace in Curry Mama (RM18) – a creamy curry leaf-scented mocktail of coconut milk, coconut puree, and lime juice, with a topping of pineapple juice. Such an inventive and invigorating drink.

D’Atas (literally a contraction of Damansara Uptown in Malay) also serves Toddy (RM12 per glass, RM60 per bottle) – local palm wine sourced and tapped from the restaurant’s own palm trees in Nilai. This rare albeit delightful find tasted mildly sweet and fizzy with faint whiffs of fermented rice.

A refreshing tweak comes in the form of Connor’s Draught Stout & Toddy (RM16). It should go down well with those who prefer to have the palm wine tempering the stout’s inherent bitterness.

 

Made with butter roasted mushroom, the unctuous Cream of Mushroom (RM18) is one of the curtain-raisers here. Overall, I thought it was too peppery but hey, you should be the judge and jury of this popular mainstay.

Smoky and tender Grilled Lamb Skewers (RM20) drizzled with mint-mayo sauce got the thumbs up; the delectably moreish bites, well-spiced and on-point. Hardly surprising then it’s chalked up as one of D’Atas’ crowd-pleasers.

Instead of ho-hum tomato or mushroom bruschetta, D’Atas updates this appetiser with an Asian slant, featuring pan-fried sardines paired with chilli shrimp paste atop crusty slices of French bread.

The Shrimp Paste Sardines Bruschetta (RM11) were rather salty but in a good way; a perfect accompaniment with your favourite ‘poison’ from the bar.

Ikan Masak Lemak & Rice (RM28) stole the show with the boneless seabass fillets immersed in robustly spicy and lemak-rich coconut cream, bird’s eye and green chillies. The zingy-hot gravy together with white rice was a match made in culinary heaven.

Mutton Sub-Monster (RM32) – scrumptious mutton varuval with red onion, tomato, and fresh lettuce slathered with mint-mayo on a slab of crusty French baguette proved another winner in our books.

The thin-crust Kimchi Pizza (RM23) passed muster; the tart and distinctive pickled cabbage kicking the flavour quotient several notches up. A definite appealing option to go with boozy drinks.

Cooked cockles, tofu puffs, long beans, and a hard-boiled egg lend substance to Curry Laksa with Sambal Belacan (RM18). We didn’t fancy the yellow mee but it’s the only noodle option available. The aromatic curry gravy passed muster; a dollop of the sambal helped add greater depth and flavour.

Two grilled housemade beef patties with melted cheese, fried egg, onion rings, sliced tomato and gherkins in-between a sesame bun form the Smoking’ Double Beef Burger (RM33). Unfortunately, our beef patties were overcooked and dry but D'Atas promises this hiccup will be rectified.

Spice and chilli fiends will enjoy Asian Style Chilli Chicken Pasta (RM16) – spaghetti tossed with spicy-hot pan-fried chicken breast with chilli flakes, wild rocket and cherry tomatoes.

Topped with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce, the Molten Lava Cake (RM18) hit our sweet spot with its airy-light chocolate cake oozing with luscious, melted dark chocolate at its core.

Lighter on the palate is Tri-Crepe Cakes (RM18) – soft, paper-thin crepes filled with a choice of durian, chempedak, blueberry cheese or red velvet sponge and cream. 

In its bid to draw the white collar crowd, D’Atas serves Set Lunch from 12pm – 2.45pm daily. Priced from RM16 upwards, diners can choose from 12 main course options and enjoy free flow of ice lemon tea.

 

Membership is available for regular patrons. Enrolment is easy and benefits await such as 15% discount for food & beverage at D'Atas.

For reservations, call D’Atas Bistro, hp: 010 248 1356. Address: 108G, SS21/39, Damansara Utama 47400 Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Business hours: 12 noon – 12 midnight daily