SHOW-STOPPERS OF SHHHBUUULEEE

 “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication” Leonardo da Vinci

Tofu with Soy-cured Egg Yolk, Tomato Water and Herbs (RM22). Drunken Cockles with Rice Wine, Taucu and Mustard Seeds Oil (RM38). Grouper Head Terrine with Chayote, Szechuan Pepper and Chilli Vinaigrette (RM32).

When you encounter such show-stopping house specialities, it dawns on you Shhhbuuuleee isn’t any run-of-the-mill rooftop bar and restaurant. The defyingly simple yet intensely flavour-packed curtain-raisers are mere harbingers of what to expect from this quaint outpost, ‘hidden’ atop RexKL, an old cinema reincarnated into a hip cultural and creative hub.

Upon arriving at RexKL, the hunt for the resto’s ultra-discreet staircase entrance in a mini adventure in itself…hint: it’s within Book Xcess. As I climbed the flights of stairs up to the outpost, I felt like Alice heading into ‘wonderland’.

The interior of Shhhbuuuleee features a seamless integration of the old: RexKL’s original flooring and walls; and the new: extended bar seating, minimalist eclectic elements and retro touches are artfully combined to evoke a casual, laidback atmosphere.

Like those art house flicks produced to appeal to a discerning audience, Chef Mui Kai Quan is the culinary director whose creative force comes from past stints gleaned from Osteria Mozza and Esquina in Singapore, Ledbury in London, Maaemo in Oslo and Sprout in Johor Bahru. While his modern Malaysian fare takes centre stage at ChoCha Foodstore, Mui now intends to shine the spotlight on East Asian fare with his inimitable touches at Shhhbuuuleee.

After that stellar cast of curtain-raisers, good conversations flow smoothly along thanks to the recommended tipple: Shuho Awesome Karakuchi (RM35 per glass, RM280 per bottle) is winsome for its clean, refreshing taste. The chilled saké paired superbly well with the specialities mentioned earlier as well as the appetite-whetting Wagyu Tartare with Pickled Radish & Seaweed Crackers (RM52).

Local produce also takes the limelight when possible. The chef is an earnest supporter and advocate of local farmers and food producers like the Langit Collective, and champions more sustainable eating in the local F&B scene.

Ample proof of the chef’s mantra is evident in the Grilled Peppers with Sesame & Peanut Butter (RM26). Locally grown, the colourful assortment of banana and shishito peppers tossed in sesame and peanut butter tastes delicately sweet and deliciously tender.

The other scene-stealer was Red Glutinous Rice with Sakura Shrimp & Salt-Cured Fish Roe (RM24). We relished every bite of the nutty, slightly sticky home-grown red glutinous rice which has absorbed the rich savouriness of both the shrimps and fish roe.

Sweet with a fair amount of smooth, fine flesh, the Tai Head with Bamboo Fungi Broth and Puffed Rice (RM88) easily reeled us in. The accompanying broth – chicken stock and bamboo pith simmered for hours – alone was so chockful of flavours, we lapped up every precious drop.  A chilled shochu, Satsumamura Aka Shochu (RM35 per shot) enhanced our enjoyment of the said dish.

Drawing inspiration from his Chinese roots, Mui uses fu yue (fermented beancurd) to conjure up the homely Braised Tripe & Tendon with Fu Yu Broth, Daikon, Lotus Root & Tang Oh (RM48). For the uninitiated, the savoury Chinese condiment tastes similar to cheese; lending depth and complexity to the various ingredients which soaked up all the wonderful flavours of the braising broth.

After being bedazzled by a slew of palate-pleasing blockbusters, subsequent contenders such as Fried Sole with Shiso and Salted Mustard Green (RM42), as well as Sautéed Kale and Wood Ear Mushroom with Kombu Butter (RM22) had to fight harder to gain attention.

Perked up with a relish of chopped salted mustard green (ham choi) and fresh beefsteak leaves serving as an edible wrap for the panko-crusted fish, the former was akin to fish and chips gone East and ‘fit’.

Healthy eating won’t be topping your agenda when you’re at Shhhbuuleee but the kale and wood ear mushroom combo makes an appearance in the menu for good measure. Although the dish was a tad underwhelming, we dutifully polished off every morsel due to its super-nutritious content.

Mui admits he’s still working on dessert and the menu changes based on the availability of the ingredients and produce. So be prepared for more culinary sequels to savour at Shhhbuuleee.

For reservations at Shhhbuuuleee, call: 012-6120786 or https://letsumai.com/widget/shhhbuuuleee. Address: 3^rd Floor, RexKL, 80, Jalan Sultan, Kuala Lumpur.

SAVOUR THE WORLD OF NOBU THIS MARCH

Savour a specially curated 7-course menu featuring exclusive recipes from the ‘World of Nobu’ cookbook throughout March 2019 to mark the launch of the celebrated cookbook at Nobu Kuala Lumpur.

Priced at RM600++ per person, the World of Nobu menu’s opening volley features Kin Medai Bagna Cauda with Wasabi Aioli Soy Cream, a recipe by Toshiyuki Shiramizu, Executive Head Sushi Chef of Nobu Malibu.

The three delicate strips of alfonsino or golden eye snapper look like three brush strokes, layered with sliced eringi, shaved truffle and a dimunitive dollop of wasabi aioli soy cream (presumably referencing the bagna cauda). A featherlight ensemble that unleashes wonderfully rich flavours onto our palate, leaving us yearning for more.

According to Nobu Matsuhisa: “In this book, each chef expresses the Nobu Way as he understands it through his cooking. I feel that, even when I’m no longer here, the Nobu Style will keep on living, in the cuisine of the chefs that I’ve trained. This book is the essence of the Nobu Way, and the source of the smiles on our guests’ faces.”

Representing the home team is Nobu Kuala Lumpur’s Head Sushi Chef Chico Dator who proffers a Sushi Cup Selection. The Chu Toro (medium fat tuna belly slices) with Yuzu Miso topped with Caviar wins hands down — it’s a mini mouthful of big flavour whilst cleaner nuances with an earthy finish prevail in the pairing of Tai (Japanese sea bream) & Crispy Shiitake with Sweet Shiso Sauce.

Another crowd favourite is Amaebi (sweet shrimp) with Wasabi Salsa & Ponzu Sauce although the Ikura (salmon roe) with home-made soy-laced rice tastes a tad too salty for my personal liking.

Chef de Cuisine of Nobu Doha Andrew Bozoki brings a healthy spin with his inventive creation of Lobster, Kale, Quinoa & Salsa with Dry Miso. Adhering to Nobu’s principles of freshness, quality and simplicity, the clever interplay of different textures make this speciality an epicurean delight.

Nantucket Scallop & Pickled Fennel with Beet Sauce — a signature creation of Chef Taku Sato, Executive Chef of Nobu Fifty Seven is intepreted using Hokkaido scallops for pragmatic reasons. Again, it’s an ingeniously simple yet exquisite composition.

Never mind that my scallops were a tad overdone; the slightly charred smokiness left them companionable enough to go with the sourish tang of the pickled fennel, perked up by the creamy beet sauce.

Chef Eleni Manousou — Nobu Group’s first first female Executive Chef who spearheads Nobu Marbella is renowned for her Wagyu Beef Salsa Con Hierbas. The Nobu KL team uses Miyazaki Wagyu beef imported from Japan cooked to medium rare and served it with the chef’s distinctive salsa concoction comprising coriander, parsley, onion, olive oil, yuzu juice, rice vinegar, capers, gherkins, mustard and anchovies.

While I enjoy the juicy and tender meat, I wish the herbaceous salsa packs a little more punch or acidity would have been nice to balance the meaty richness.

Fret not, the refreshing Cold Inaniwa Chuka with Caviar and Watercress Soup by Chef Philip Leong of Nobu KL is a splendid penultimate course to dive into. Ethereally light and healthy thanks to the watercress broth, the delicious dish offers contrasting textures and nuances too.

A pink-blush 'powder puff' of mascarpone cream with green tea sponge and cherry blossom mousse and green tea sauce accompanied by a quenelle of cherry sorbet atop a cherry leaf formed the pretty as picture Sakura-Saku dessert by Pastry Chef Kei Hasegawa of Matsuhisa Beverly Hills.

It’s a lovely dessert to herald the arrival of cherry blossom season. A well-balanced composition that complements the delicate sweetness of mascarpone cream and cherry blossom mousse with the subtle bitterness of green tea sauce and the sweet-sourness of cherry sorbet.

The World of Nobu menu will be available until 31 March 2019. Diners can also purchase the World Of Nobu cookbook from Nobu Kuala Lumpur for RM325+ (subject to SST tax).

For inquiries or reservations, please call Nobu Kuala Lumpur, tel: 03-2164 5084 or WhatsApp 019-389 5085.