Gluttony should be a virtue for those who enter the threshold of China House. Go on, cut yourself some
slack and simply succumb to the siren’s call of this unique F&B haven. A
brainchild of Narelle McMurtrie who founded the now defunct Bon Ton restaurant in
KL then the restaurant and resort in Langkawi, China House spans 3 heritage
buildings linked by an open-air courtyard in Penang.
First-timers
are encouraged to enter through the 155 Beach Street entrance where the Kopi C
Espresso Café & Bar is decked with a long table laden with an eye-opening
parade of cakes and sweet temptations.
Stroll
further in and you’d find BTB & Restaurant and Bon Ton the Shop II. The
Reading Room is popular with bookworms and families − the bookcases are filled
with mags and reading materials including children’s books. In addition, a
small colouring and painting space here keeps the young ones occupied.
Off
to the side is Vine & Single, a cosy wine and single malt whisky bar. Also
onsite is 14 Chairs, a private dining space for small groups, guest chefs’
pop-up events and cooking classes.
Stepping
out into the Courtyard Café & Burger Bar, this al fresco space with a pond
and leafy mango trees is an oasis of calm amidst interesting wall murals. Right
at the end of the outbuilding walk is the Canteen & Bar, a hot spot for
music and drinks at dusk. Ascend upstairs beyond the Beach St Bakery and you’d
find art galleries and a multi-purpose performance space.
Such
a colourful and intriguing cornucopia makes China House a popular outpost with
foreign and domestic visitors to Penang. When we visited on a weekday, the
place was buzzing and occasionally, customers even had to wait for tables to be
vacated.
Friends
in the know already warned us ahead of time China House is a cake haven prior
to our visit. A double decked bakery table beckons with no less than 30 cakes
daily. Of course, it was hard for sweet-toothed peeps like us to decide so
finally, we settled on two distinctly different choices: Lemon & Raspberry
3 Milk Cake (RM18+) and Pineapple Chocolate Upside Down Cake (RM12+).
Happily, my maiden encounter with this famous Mexican tres leches cake, so-called because whole milk, evaporated milk and sweetened condensed milk are used to make it, was a pleasurable experience. Despite the
cake’s somewhat dry appearance, we found it nice and moist. Also the
lemon-raspberry accent worked like a charm and served lightly sauced, we devoured
the hefty wedge down to the last crumb.
Pineapple
upside down cake has always been an evergreen fave of mine but eating a chocolatey
version was another first. It was agreeable taste-wise but the purist in me believes the classic recipe takes the cake anytime.
Consciously
trying to fit in more greens into our meal, we then picked on a healthy serving
of Avocado, Cashewnuts & Feta Salad (RM40+) as our meal opener. It proved a
great choice as the substantial serving also has grapes, cranberries and
peppery rocket leaves in the equation. Tossed in pomegranate dressing and crowned
with a crisp slice of savoury parmesan biscotti, it was a munch-worthy
speciality we’d gladly return for.
Another
inspired option was Laos Chicken & Pumpkin Curry (RM40+). Similar to nasi
lemak minus the unabashedly lemak-richness, the delicious platter paired a
banana leaf cone of coconut rice with piquant pumpkin-chicken curry studded with pumpkin
seeds. Sidelines of green mango-coconut kerabu, zesty acar, small dishes of sambal and chilli jam with fried crackers added to the homespun flavours of the meal.
I
was flummoxed by the house speciality of Hokkien Spaghetti Bolognese (RM37+). The
al dente spaghetti Bolognese was agreeable but I found it underwhelming for my
palate, in spite of the textural and taste dimensions provided by cucumber
ribbons with minced chicken, eggplant ginger bud sambal, and caramelised
peanuts. Still, we were told this was a big hit with customers so you should be
the best judge on whether it’s a hit or a miss.
If
you have reached the tipping point with local hawker fare, find comfort in familiar Western offerings such as
a decent Beef Burger (RM23+). Few can fault the decent 150g
beef patty topped with melted cheese, Japanese mustard aioli, caramelised
onion, and pickled Japanese cucumber with the serving of chunky fries on the
side.
Non-alcoholic drinks are given ample attention here. Besides the usual gamut of canned carbonated drinks and fruit juices, it pays to peruse the lengthy beverage menu for inspiring thirst-quenchers like Gula
Melaka Shake (RM20.80+), reputedly the most ordered drink in the house; a sublime, slightly nutty milkshake whipped with almonds and gooey, caramel-thick palm sugar syrup.
Other viable family-friendly options range from Oreo
Milkshake (RM20.80+) to the bohemian-sounding Rainbow Juice (RM14.80+) with pineapple, strawberry and mango or freshly made Mint
Lime with Cranberry (RM12.80+).
Note: Prices quoted
inclusive 6% GST & subject to 10% service charge
For
reservations, call China House, tel: 04-263 7299. Address: 153 & 155, Beach
Street and 183B Victoria Street, George Town, Penang. www.chinahouse.com.my
