When
Michelin-starred guest chef Anthony Ho of Zi Yat Heen, Four Seasons Macao joins
forces with Chef Jimmy Wong of Yun House in Kuala Lumpur, the result is more
than a collaborative menu—it’s a culinary dialogue, rich in technique, memory,
and homage.
Held
from 3 to 6 July to mark Yun House’s seventh anniversary, the four-hands menu
(RM668 per person) is a study in refinement. A medley of traditional flavours
refracted through a modern lens, each dish is carefully composed to honour the
past with whispers of the future.
Chef
Ho, a son of Hong Kong steeped in two decades of experience, begins with a
poetic overture: Fresh Crab Meat with Japanese Pine Needles and Caviar. It’s a
dish of startling clarity: the delicate sweetness of crab imbued by ephemeral herbaceousness
of pine needles juxtaposed against the saline pop of caviar. An ode to the purity of
good produce in the confident and deft hands of Ho.
Another
masterful composition is his Teochew-style Marinated Mackerel and Chilled Razor
Clams, a distillation of the restrained elegance of Teochew banquets. The
mackerel, cured just so, sings with refined subtlety, accented by a tiny dollop
of fermented bean sauce.
Partnering
it are slivers of delicious razor clams, served chilled with scallion oil and a
glimmer of ice plant. The succulent coolness a seductive textural
contrast that delights.
Veteran
chef Jimmy Wong, known for his contemporary finesse, responds with an
enticingly comforting dish: Braised Fish Maw in Millet Broth with Black
Truffle. Simmered for six hours, the broth is deeply nourishing—savoury,
complexly flavourful and edged with the aroma of truffle. Each
spoonful is a revelation; the gelatinous fish maw and tiny orbs of millet speak
of the chef’s time-honoured and masterful techniques.
Ho’s
unforgettable Wok-fried Lobster with Dried Shallots and Macanese Black Olives
is a conversation-stopper. Here, the brininess of the olives—brought in
specially from Macao—mingles with the sweetness of shellfish in a lush umami
crescendo.
The
Stuffed Chicken Wing with Foie Gras, Abalone and Glutinous Rice is at once
nostalgic and daring. Channelling the spirit of classic banquet dishes, the
stuffing of foie gras melded with sticky rice adds richness, depth and a touch
of indulgence. The luxurious chew of abalone elevates the mosaic of texture.
Dessert
arrives in two thoughtful creations. First, a Chilled Pumpkin Soup with Nostoc
Pearls—a soothing, lightly sweet elixir, its texture lifted by the surprising
presence of nostoc, a rare cyanobacteria prized in traditional Chinese
medicine. Rich in protein and Vitamin C, this anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory
element casts the dessert broth in new light.
The
final flourish: a golden and delicate Baked Egg Tart with Bird’s Nest and
Saffron highlights saffron-scented custard with a topping of bird’s nest. It’s
a befitting dessert exuding a sense of luxury without excess, a final flourish
paying homage to a splendid set menu composed with world-class skills and a
wealth of experience.
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