BEST OF PERU AT FELIZ

 

Do you know chifa is the Peruvian version of fried rice? Heavily influenced by the Chinese, a gastronomy article published in Journal of Ethnic Food reveals chifa originated from the Chinese words: “chi” (eat) and “farn” (rice). The term emerged around the 1930s in Lima when Peruvians overheard Chinese restaurateurs cajoled potential customers to patronise their eateries to chi farn. 

Egg chaufa or fried rice with ceviche, egg, sesame oil, spring onion and beansprouts is Peruvians’ carb of choice along with French fries, to complement Pollo A La Brasa (RM118), roasted chicken which has been marinated 24 hours with garlic and cumin.

To amp up the flavour, they rely on aji de la casa (house-made chilli), chimichurri (a blend of flatleaf parsley, coriander, garlic, salt, chilli flakes, vinegar and olive oil) and tartara (tartar sauce).

 

This Peruvian speciality is one of the many offerings rustle up by Chef Franco Aldana at Feliz, Klang Valley’s first and only Peruvian restaurant at Avenue K.

Feliz, meaning happy in Spanish, flaunts an open rooftop bar surrounded by gleaming skyscrapers. A tiered water feature and a long, shaded patio decked with potted greenery complete the al fresco section.

Within the entrance, a narrow walkway flanked by multiple shelves of greenery leads into a tastefully decorated dining space. Peru’s vibrant cultural heritage is evoked through a jade-green glass tile wall, a circular wine glass chandelier, colourful Peruvian tassel and macrame wall hangings, and turquoise-toned furnishings.

Our culinary journey to Peru began with chicha morada, a boiled purple corn and pineapple peel drink. It tastes like blackcurrant juice, infused with cinnamon and cloves.

The opening salvo of Ceviche Limeno (RM38) is Peru’s most famous dish. Although it seems simple, Aldana said a good ceviche must be perfectly balanced; from the use of leche de tigre (tiger’s milk), a bright, salty-spicy marinade of aji panca, lime, salt, ginger, garlic and coriander, to the combination of white corn, sweet potato and canchita (fried corn kernels).

We like how the leche de tigre’s punchy sourness melded cohesively with the white corn and sweet potato’s delicate sweetness. Strands of sea grapes lent pops of savouriness as we relished the slippery succulence of marinated fish. Canchita and crispy fried plantain injected crunchiness to the well-balanced dish.

Raw, sashimi-style tuna slices accompanied by a sauce of cold potato pureé, vinegar, leche de tigre, cucumber and mango juices form the chef’s Tiradito De Tuna (RM145). Topped with chalaquita de mango, Peruvian salsa of tiny mango, red onion and cherry tomato dices, the riot of delicate textures and assertive flavours tantalised our tastebuds.

Feliz’s signature Arroz Con Mariscos (RM119), was faintly similar to a perfectly cooked risotto albeit dialled up with aji amarillo (hot yellow chilli), assorted seafood and cilantro.

We also enjoyed meltingly tender and piquantly flavoured Anticuchos De Lomo Fino (RM158), skewers of marinated and grilled tenderloin accompanied by white corn, sliced fried potatoes and chimichurri.

Light and sweet Alfajores (RM27), two buttery biscuits sandwiched between creamy dulce de leche (caramelised condensed milk) wrap up our Peruvian party.

 

The milk-soaked sponge cake topped with Chantilly cream, dulce de leche and fruits making up Tres Leches (RM45) was winsome whilst the Petit Foie Selection (RM45) comprising mini glasses of tres leches, tocino del cielo (creamy caramel flan) and alfajores paves an introductory pathway to Peruvian desserts.

For reservations at Feliz, contact: 011-1771 7742. Address: L4-05, LEVEL 4, Avenue K, 156, Jln Ampang, Kuala Lumpur

 

MORE THAN NORMAL PUB GRUB AT THE BELL & CROWN

 

Sizzling Mutton Tava Biryani (RM35) is not your average pub grub when you step into The Bell & Crown. According to owner Dato’ Vicky A., he included it in as he prefers sitting down to a hot meal as a regular pub goer. When he took over The Bell & Crown, he ensured biryani – one of his favourite dishes – is listed in the menu.

“Our mutton biryani is fast gaining popularity here,” said Dato’ Vicky. “It’s prepared Mumbai-style. First, the mutton is pressure-cooked then roasted slightly. We stir-fry the mutton with ghee, onion and freshly ground Indian spices in an iron skillet until aromatic. Everything is subsequently added to basmati rice and cooked in claypot.”

Served with thick, house-made yoghurt, the spice-scented biryani made our mouths water as we stirred up the fluffy rice. The heady aroma and mildly gamey taste of tender mutton and deeply flavourful rice proved immensely satisfying.

Earlier, our evening started with a bang thanks to some Pigs in Blanket (RM25). The cocktail pork sausages wrapped in bacon were moreish; a splendid complement for my Classic Margarita (RM27).

The shaken concoction of triple sec, tequila and lime was rather potent but I made it last with measured sips throughout the evening. The Bell & Crown serves three glasses of Classic Cocktails at RM78+ thus enabling its patrons to indulge in cocktail hour without breaking the bank.

A good selection of light nibbles and heftier mains, comprising classic Brit pub grub and more Asian-inspired fare is available to keep hunger pangs at bay. We were pleasantly surprised to find Penang Loh Bak (RM22) on the menu. Although the deep-fried rolls came a tad over-fried, we were relieved to find the five spice marinated pork, yam and carrots wrapped in beancurd sheets up to scratch taste-wise.

Another notable appetiser is Chicken 65 (RM22), cooked Mumbai-style. Marinated overnight with ground Indian spices, the bite-size chicken cubes are lightly battered and fried with onion, curry leaves and dried chillies until crisp.

Every morsel we tried titillated our tastebuds with a cornucopia of bright, bold spice accents; an inducement to eat and drink more amidst convivial merriment.

However, the unexpected show-stealer turned out to be the cheesy Chicken Tikka Pizza (RM20). We thoroughly enjoyed partaking the elongated pizza with delectable chunks of tandoori chicken and generous topping of melted mozzarella, parmesan and cheddar.

Those hankering for Bangers, Mash & Beans (RM36) should be happy to know The Bell & Crown proffers a choice of beef, pork, lamb & cranberry or chicken sausages alongside lumpy mashed potatoes and Heinz baked beans. The hearty serving passed muster and was par for the course IMHO.

Décor-wise, the frontage flaunts charming vintage Tudor-style windows and monochrome checkerboard floors. The warmly-lit interior incorporates a long bar, plenty of dark wood trims, cosy booth seats and whitewashed walls adorned with sepia-tone prints and antique lamps.

For reservations at The Bell & Crown, contact tel: 016 964 0786. Address: 34, Lorong Rahim Kajai 14, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur.

NEW CHEF’S SPECIALITIES WITH PLAYFUL FLAIR AT YUN HOUSE

 
Familiar yet fresh. Inventive yet timeless. Chef Jimmy Wong and his Yun House team have rendered fresh Hong Kong-style twists to some classic recipes, resulting in visually striking and tastefully exquisite dishes with playful spins to captivate guests.

Presented on a chic canvas of modern tableware, we readily succumbed to Crispy Rice Vermicelli with Foie Gras and Oyster. How could we fault the artful melding of shatter-crisp texture with luxuriantly rich foie gras and the mollusk's plump suppleness?

Instead of the usual square deep-fried toast, we nibbled on lightly breaded, ball-shaped Prawn Toast with Caviar. Tiny pops of brininess from the lustrous caviar pearls heightened our enjoyment of the springy prawn stuffing and crispy toast.

Likewise, we enthused over the slick black vinegar sauce which exuded mellow, well-rounded tanginess; a nice masterstroke to complement the Mini Beef Steak, tempering its meaty richness.

The spongy-softness of fish maw segued to the delicacy of bamboo charcoal skin when we bit into the Fish Maw Dumpling with Cordycep Flower and Black Garlic. Umami accent from cordycep flowers merged with earthy complexity of black garlic on our palate the more we chewed.

Diminutive dices of barbecued duck lent an unexpectedly delicious twist to the filling for the red topped, wispy Deep-fried Yam Puff with Roasted Barbecued Duck. The faintly savoury-sweet taste of nam yue (fermented red beancurd) was discernible when we devoured the yam puff.

Primed up with a whole deep-fried Alaskan Crab Meat Wonton, we lapped up every drop of the stimulating Hot and Sour Soup with Sea Scallops and Tofu. Hats off to the chef for employing the scrumptious dumpling and scallops to level up the crowd-pleasing broth.

Equally stellar was Steamed Black Cod with Chopped Chilli. We were reeled in by the fish's natural sweetness and satiny smooth texture, touched with an aromatic superior soy sauce dressing.

Soul-satisfying Braised Hong Kong Ee-Fu Noodles with Wild Mushrooms and Truffle Paste left us replete. Nuanced with lush woodsy and musky accents, we slurped up every salubrious strand.

Miraculously, our close to bursting tummies found room to fit in the luscious Yin Yang Black Sesame Ice Cream with Chilled Almond Milk. Redolent with the distinct nuttiness of both ingredients, the alluring dessert proved too irresistible especially since I'm partial to almond milk.

Suffice to say, the selection of new chef’s specialities are befittingly worthy of the Michelin selected restaurant.

To reserve a table at Yun House, contact tel: 03 2382 8602 or email: diningreservations.kualalumpur@fourseasons.com.
 

REAL FLAVOURS OF MEXICO RULE

 

Meet the real enchilada when you dine at Flavors Of Mexico Asia. Chef Ivan Chavarria Hernandez will tell you the rolled fried black tortillas (coloured with charcoal powder) stuffed with mozzarella known as Flautas (RM18) are the authentic Mexican ones.

Accompanied by salsa roja, pico de gallo (chopped tomatoes, onion and serrano pepper with salt, lime juice and cilantro) and sliced radish, the moreish speciality is one of the many delicious things to enjoy at his restaurant.

 

Opened some months ago, Hernandez is keen to introduce his native food to local diners albeit with subtle Asian flavours incorporated.

After trying Jarritos, Mexican bottled soda, we were surprised by the moderate sweetness. Available in seven flavours, I like the Tamarind flavour best followed by Fruit Punch and Lime.

Coctel de Camaron (RM26) comprising diced prawns, avocado cubes and onion in smoky chipotle sauce relished with crunchy corn chips proved incredibly addictive. Add a dab of the chef’s house-made chilli oil for a zingy boost.

Unlike the Tex-Mex version, the Nachos here came laden with chopped tomatoes, pickled onion with pico de gallo, beans, creamed avocado, sour cream, jalapenos and fresh coriander. Cheese sauce is merely drizzled on as it’s not supposed to overwhelm everything on the plate.

A hint of Japanese influence was apparent in the Ceviche (RM24) with Chips once we tasted the tangy-savoury lime-cured tilapia in seafood broth. Mixed with diced avocado, tomatoes and onion alongside fresh herbs, the corn chips disappeared in a twinkling.

“Vendors selling paper cups of corn chips down by the beach are a common sight back home. That’s why I use the same plastic plates lined with ‘newsprint’ paper, to evoke the same vibes here,” said Hernandez.

Ardent taco lovers like us had a field day feasting on five types of Tacos (RM10-RM16 per 4-inch piece). Piled with marinated and braised lamb with fresh herbs, topped with cured onion and guacamole on the tissue-thin house-made corn tortilla, the scrumptious Birria Lamb Taco brought us up to gastro heaven.

Surprisingly, the vegetarian-friendly Hongos Taco scored well too thanks to the cohesive combination of blanched spinach, black bean mash, sautéed mushroom and vegetarian sour cream.

Equally rave-worthy is Taco de Pollo Al Pastor featuring marinated chicken with red chillies, achiote (Mexican paste of annatto seeds, cumin, pepper, coriander, oregano, cloves and garlic) and pineapple relish. 

Tasty but more ho-hum options in my book are Taco de Camaron and Taco Baja. The first had tempura prawn with chipotle mayo and pineapple relish whilst the second consisted of tempura fish with pico de gallo, coleslaw and sour cream.

Hernandez also told us churros was Spanish and Portuguese iteration of Chinese yu tiao (deep-fried crullers). “They just added eggs and sugar to the original recipe. In Mexico, we serve it with chocolate or cajeta, caramel sauce spiked with rum but the alcohol is omitted at this restaurant.”

Lightly crunchy on the outside and custardy on the inside, the ridged tubular Churros Con Cajeta (RM17) hit our sweet spot. We recommend chasing it with Horchata (RM10), chilled rice milk served with a dusting of cocoa powder too.

Now you know where to go for truly Mexican fare with Asian touches. There's also a small selection of Mexican treats and groceries for aspiring home cooks to attempt replicating the Mexican dishes on their own.

For reservations at FLAVORS OF MEXICO ASIA, contact via DM @flavorsofmexico.asia (Instagram). Address: Ground Floor, Hartamas Shopping Centre,Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: Tues-Sun 12noon-8.30pm