HERALDING HAIRY CRAB SEASON AT ELEGANT INN

Although unfathomable, there are people who prefer a ‘hands free’ way of savouring hairy crabs. Elegant Inn HK Cuisine’s the 6-course Hairy Crab Roe and Abalone Set (RM368++ per person, min 2 diners per table) will fulfill this desire with aplomb.

The indulgent set will allow you to do what Hong Kongers - well-heeled or otherwise - fervently enjoy i.e. yue chi lou farn, literally dousing shark’s fin with rice. It's a popular euphemism for enjoying in the high life. The set menu’s penultimate course of Braised Hairy Crab Roe with Golden Coin Shark’s Fin with ‘Lou’ Rice is guaranteed to be a conversation-stopper.

But I digress. Our dining party experienced first-hand, both Elegant Inn’s two Hairy Crab Set menus. For the Hairy Crab Roe and Abalone Set, a triumvirate of sublime appetisers: a shot glass of smooth Steamed Silky Egg with Hairy Crab Roe, Golden Curry Sesame Prawn Roll, and E.I. Crispy Vegetarian Rice Roll started our party rolling with a big bang.

Every spoonful of that crab roe laden steamed egg sent shivers of delight down our spine. The crisp prawn roll tantalised with its British-style aromatic, sweetish curried filling. E.I.’s perennial smooth rice roll with its crisp centre, for textural and flavour contrasts rounded up this platter.  

Sampling the collagen-rich Claypot Soup of Shark’s Fin Cartilage, Pork Rib Soup with Fish Maw and Bamboo Pith, we couldn't get enough of the broth's flavourful depth and rich umaminess.

I have yet to meet anyone who’d turn down a sumptuous dish of Braised 7-head South Africa Abalone. At E.I. you know you're getting the good stuff thanks to the lady proprietress' exacting standards.

Complemented by slices of Pan Seared Spanish Iberico Pork and Handmade Fish Curd in Abalone Sauce, the premium shellfish's natural marine-sweetness and melt-in-the-mouth tenderness was simply orgasmic. The rich-tasting Iberico pork was a masterstroke as the pork not only soaked in the complex sauce but also amplified the nuances whilst the puffy fish curd was a delicate work of deft culinary skills.

Stronger, heartier flavours prevailed in the Kaffir Lime Garlic Fried Spring Chicken. Fleeting whiffs and accent of the fresh citrusy lime in the fried spring chicken was discernible. Crispy garlic bits brought pops of faint sweet pungency to each mouthful.

Words aren't adequate to describe that superbly sublime serving of Braised Hairy Crab Roe with Golden Coin Shark’s Fin with ‘Lou’ Rice. That fluffy, lightly fried rice with slivers of egg stirred with lustrous hairy crab roe and shark's fin-imbued broth will leave you on otherworldly gastronomic heaven.

A flaky light Bird’s Nest Egg Tartlet accompanied by a bowl of nourishing dessert broth of Double Boiled Snow Pear with Chuanbei Citrus Peel left us happily satiated.

To satisfy true-blue hairy crab fans, E.I. pulls out the stops with a 6-course Hairy Crab Set (RM268++ per person, min of 2 per table).

The opening salvo of Porcini Smoked Farm Egg (add French Goose Liver for RM28) gave the Happy Start platter a slightly different, more solid taste dimension. Along with Golden Curry Sesame Prawn Roll and E.I. Crispy Vegetarian Rice Roll, the harmonious trio acted as nice precursors of the other goodies in store.

Providing tonic for the soul is Claypot Soup of Shark’s Fin Cartilage and Pork Rib Soup with Fried Fish Maw and Bamboo Pith. Smoother textural interest can be amped up with 'far kaw' or Fish Maw at an additional RM30.

It was such a luxury having a team of service experts to crack and prepare the leading ‘star’, a 5-tael Steamed Live Hairy Crab for us to savour. Nowadays, it seems the amount of roe in these crabs are down to luck of the draw.

 

Sometimes male crabs (look for a bell-shape pattern on its underbelly) have more of that creamy yellow-orange roe. The roe of female crabs tends to appear reddish-orange, in firmer clumps but no less delectable. We were told in China hairy crabs are available year-long but they're at their prime eating quality between late September and early November.

After the E.I. team efficiently handled the requisite prep work, we feasted like royalty, feasting with ease: merely scooping up the roe and picking the bits of sweet flesh from the legs and claws to sample. Hot cups of warming Bentong ginger tea helped to balance the cooling effects of eating those salubrious crabs.

Our tastebuds readily welcomed the robust dimension of the crispy Kaffir Lime Garlic Fried Spring Chicken. Most certainly a welcome change after the earlier, more delicate spectrum of texture and flavour. 

Braised Hot & Sour Handmade Noodles with a whole Crunchy Oyster awakened our tastebuds to vividly piquant accents.

From the delightfully silky, toothsome noodle strands to the tantalising tart-tangy and slightly punchy broth, we had nothing but high praises for the dish. The splendid finishing touch was a whole Japanese oyster, enticingly sheathed in ethereal crisp-crunchy batter.

 

Double Boiled Snow Pear with Chuanbei Citrus Peel and Osmanthus Sea Coconut Pumpkin Pudding rounded off our meal on a splendid albeit mutedly sweet note.

 

Fans of hairy crabs can feast to their hearts’ content at Elegant Inn HK Cuisine where two set menus are available until early November 2023.

For reservations at Elegant Inn HK Cuisine, call tel: 03-2070 9399. Address: 2.01, 2nd Floor, Podium Block, Menara Hap Seng, Jalan P. Ramlee, Kuala Lumpur.

EAT LIKE A VEGETARIAN AT ELEGANT INN HK CUISINE

In conjunction with the Nine Emperor Gods’ Festival, Elegant Inn HK Cuisine (E.I.) will proffer vegetarian cuisine for those who observe a vegetarian diet for the nine-day festival. Restaurateur Jeannette Han and her team have painstakingly created a Unique Vegetarian Set (RM138++ per person, minimum of 2 diners per table) and some a la carte dishes; available from 15 to 23 October.

Having sampled E.I.’s plethora of delicious offerings, I’d happily go vegetarian any day. Nice presentation and great taste are de rigueur here, starting with the platter of appetising Chilled Fresh Chinese Yam Konjac ‘Cherry’ with a centre of sour plum- marinated cherry tomato, a dainty Radish Flaky Puff and E.I. Crispy Vegetarian Rice Roll.

Every item drew our effusive praises as we savoured the chef’s delicate culinary handiwork. FYI, the konjac cherry and airy-light taro-radish puff can be ordered a la carte at RM23.80 per person (min 2 person per order), whilst the silky-smooth E.I. Crispy Vegetarian Rice Roll is RM6.80/pc (min 4 pcs per order).

Sweet and crisp wawasai blossom (miniature napa cabbage) took centrestage in the soup course of E.I. Double Boiled Soup of Murrill Mushroom (a la carte RM29.80 per person). Those earthy mushrooms lent flavourful depth to the salubrious broth, with organic soy beans providing delicate textural interest.

The inventive Fiery Cordyceps Flower Organic Beancurd with Lightly Spicy Cucumber Pickles (RM26.80 per person, min 2 person per order) was memorable for its soft and slightly crumbly texture. We love the discernible zing on our tastebuds as the tofu-cordycep flower mixture was spiked with a little chilli oil.

Presented in a square, chequered board pattern, the visually pleasing Braised Taro, Winter Melon and Hand-made Plant Based Patty with Hong Kong Liu Ma Kee Fermented Beancurd Sauce (RM23.80 per person, min 2 person per order) was a wonder to behold and savour. The masterstroke was the reddish discs of plant-based patty, made from quinoa, chickpeas, red yeast rice and beetroot. They formed an irresistible combination with the powdery soft taro and winter melon cubes, slickly covered by some glossy savoury sauce. 

Just when we thought nothing could outshine that, we encountered the show-stealing Truffle Oil Teriyaki Eggplant Steak with Organic Cabbage Rice (RM23.80 per person, min 2 person per order). Meltingly tender eggplant brushed with housemade teriyaki sauce and scented with truffle oil, the sumptuous ‘steak’ left us spellbound with its uncanny similarity to unagi kabayaki.

Housemade Cashew Nut Cream with Australian Pumpkin (RM19.80 per person) and Golden Banana Osmanthus Water Chestnut Cake (RM4.80/pc, min 4 pcs per order) brought our exquisite vegetarian meal to a sweet finale. The specialities’ ethereal sweetness and delicate textures left us on a heavenly high.

For reservations at Elegant Inn HK Cuisine, call tel: 03-2070 9399. Address: 2.01, 2nd Floor, Podium Block, Menara Hap Seng, Jalan P. Ramlee, Kuala Lumpur.

 

TOSCA X GOODDAM 'FOUR HANDS' DINNER

Italian cuisine lovers are in for a treat with the upcoming ‘four hands’ dinner featuring Chef Murli Pillay (left) of Tosca at DoubleTree by Hilton KL and Chef Daniel Yap (right) of Gooddam restaurant in Petaling Jaya.

Scheduled for 14 & 15 July, the Tosca x Gooddam event will proffer a 5-course menu (RM358 nett per person) prepared by both chefs. The food and wine pairing costs RM498 nett per person.

 

Us media members had an advance preview of the event one balmy evening at Tosca. The rustic wood-stone clad setting evoked a laidback, resort-style feel although some air-conditioning won’t be remiss IMHO in the current sweltering weather.

Chilled Sanfeletto Prosecco Superior heralded a quartet of amuse bouche: Black Angus Short Rib Arancino, Oyster Beignet, Liver Mousse, and Aged Hamachi Crudo.

 

The much-anticipated Black Angus Short Rib Arancino with Sundried Tomato Aioli and Summer Truffle was a tad underwhelming. Coated with breadcrumbs, the deep-fried Italian rice ball barely had any beef in it, whilst the tomato aioli eclipsed everything in its wake.

 

Topped with a bright green, savoury sauce, the crisp-fried Oyster Beignet with Green Onion Fondue restored our faith. The mollusc’s delicate taste remained discernible and melded well with the parmesan shavings and cheesy green onion ‘fondue’.

Airy-light and exquisitely delicate accents characterised the Liver Mousse, Strawberry Vinegar Caramel, Edible Weeds and Flowers sandwiched in between wafer-thin discs. Ditto for the Aged Hamachi Crudo, Pickled Pumpkin and Spiced Passionfruit.

 

Also top marks for the crusty slices of focaccia with pesto butter.

A zesty-fresh Fantini Pinot Grigio complemented Chef Murli’s Symphony of Heirloom Tomatoes with Aged Balsamic and Goat Cheese Panna Cotta. 

We loved how the soft pudding-like goat cheese creaminess harmonised with the assortment of fruity heirloom tomatoes. Tangy-sweet aged balsamic vinegar further enhanced the dish’s allure.

Chef Daniel proved his mettle with delicious Agnolotti of Wolf Herring Mousse, Red Coral and Nasturtium Flower Butter. A type of pasta originating from Piedmont, the chef folded flattened pasta dough over toothsomely springy fish paste. Served alongside a slab of sweet and flaky wolf herring, the spicy flower butter added lush flavour to the whole ensemble.

 

Teetotallers can expect interesting mocktails such as Cucumber Gimlet and Acai Kombucha to complement their meal.

 

While the Rack of Lamb with Pickled Purple Carrot, Celeriac Purée, Mâche & Thyme Jus looked promising, my portion was unfortunately tough and sinewy. The gloppy jus didn’t help. Fortunately, my dining partner’s serving was on-point. 

 

We had a medium body Cecchi Chianti DOCG brimming with nice berry nuances which went superbly well with the lamb.

Dinner concluded on a high note with an enticing Marsala Sabayon Ice Cream, Wood-fired Fig and Fig Leaf Meringue wrapping up the evening. It was a light, mildly sweet yet slightly indulgent dessert to savour.

 

For reservations at Tosca, call tel: 03-2172 7272 or email: KULDT_FB@hilton.com