BEST OF PERU AT FELIZ

 

Do you know chifa is the Peruvian version of fried rice? Heavily influenced by the Chinese, a gastronomy article published in Journal of Ethnic Food reveals chifa originated from the Chinese words: “chi” (eat) and “farn” (rice). The term emerged around the 1930s in Lima when Peruvians overheard Chinese restaurateurs cajoled potential customers to patronise their eateries to chi farn. 

Egg chaufa or fried rice with ceviche, egg, sesame oil, spring onion and beansprouts is Peruvians’ carb of choice along with French fries, to complement Pollo A La Brasa (RM118), roasted chicken which has been marinated 24 hours with garlic and cumin.

To amp up the flavour, they rely on aji de la casa (house-made chilli), chimichurri (a blend of flatleaf parsley, coriander, garlic, salt, chilli flakes, vinegar and olive oil) and tartara (tartar sauce).

 

This Peruvian speciality is one of the many offerings rustle up by Chef Franco Aldana at Feliz, Klang Valley’s first and only Peruvian restaurant at Avenue K.

Feliz, meaning happy in Spanish, flaunts an open rooftop bar surrounded by gleaming skyscrapers. A tiered water feature and a long, shaded patio decked with potted greenery complete the al fresco section.

Within the entrance, a narrow walkway flanked by multiple shelves of greenery leads into a tastefully decorated dining space. Peru’s vibrant cultural heritage is evoked through a jade-green glass tile wall, a circular wine glass chandelier, colourful Peruvian tassel and macrame wall hangings, and turquoise-toned furnishings.

Our culinary journey to Peru began with chicha morada, a boiled purple corn and pineapple peel drink. It tastes like blackcurrant juice, infused with cinnamon and cloves.

The opening salvo of Ceviche Limeno (RM38) is Peru’s most famous dish. Although it seems simple, Aldana said a good ceviche must be perfectly balanced; from the use of leche de tigre (tiger’s milk), a bright, salty-spicy marinade of aji panca, lime, salt, ginger, garlic and coriander, to the combination of white corn, sweet potato and canchita (fried corn kernels).

We like how the leche de tigre’s punchy sourness melded cohesively with the white corn and sweet potato’s delicate sweetness. Strands of sea grapes lent pops of savouriness as we relished the slippery succulence of marinated fish. Canchita and crispy fried plantain injected crunchiness to the well-balanced dish.

Raw, sashimi-style tuna slices accompanied by a sauce of cold potato pureé, vinegar, leche de tigre, cucumber and mango juices form the chef’s Tiradito De Tuna (RM145). Topped with chalaquita de mango, Peruvian salsa of tiny mango, red onion and cherry tomato dices, the riot of delicate textures and assertive flavours tantalised our tastebuds.

Feliz’s signature Arroz Con Mariscos (RM119), was faintly similar to a perfectly cooked risotto albeit dialled up with aji amarillo (hot yellow chilli), assorted seafood and cilantro.

We also enjoyed meltingly tender and piquantly flavoured Anticuchos De Lomo Fino (RM158), skewers of marinated and grilled tenderloin accompanied by white corn, sliced fried potatoes and chimichurri.

Light and sweet Alfajores (RM27), two buttery biscuits sandwiched between creamy dulce de leche (caramelised condensed milk) wrap up our Peruvian party.

 

The milk-soaked sponge cake topped with Chantilly cream, dulce de leche and fruits making up Tres Leches (RM45) was winsome whilst the Petit Foie Selection (RM45) comprising mini glasses of tres leches, tocino del cielo (creamy caramel flan) and alfajores paves an introductory pathway to Peruvian desserts.

For reservations at Feliz, contact: 011-1771 7742. Address: L4-05, LEVEL 4, Avenue K, 156, Jln Ampang, Kuala Lumpur

 

PERUVIAN CHICKEN A HOT HIT AT BRASARIA

The best testament of how original a particular type of food is when the country’s native citizens show up to eat it. So imagine how chuffed Carmen Loo – owner of Brasaria restaurant was when Peruvian customers showed up to enjoy Pollo a La Brasa, Peruvian-style rotisserie chicken at Brasaria recently.

Opened in February this year, Brasaria has steadily won plaudits for its delicious charcoal-grilled chicken. According to Carmen, the restaurant uses chickens from a halal-certified supplier. The chooks are marinated for 24 hours with the house Peruvian-style marinade.

“We use fresh, locally sourced chillies, coriander, mint and jalapeños among others in our preparation,” said Carmen. “In Peru, Pollo a La Brasa is a popular street-food dish found at almost every corner. The rotisserie grilled chicken is usually served with rice or fries and grilled vegetables.”

 

In sync with this casual, simple food approach, the owners have kept Brasaria’s interior uncluttered and functional. At the entrance, a whimsical Ilama replica ‘greets’ diners while solid blocks of colour accents evoke vibrant vibes inside.

The straightforward menu proffers grilled chicken in quarter, half or whole servings. Our dining party opted for El Jefe ‘The Boss’ (RM45.90 whole chicken a la carte, RM60.90 whole chicken with large green salad & 2 sides).

We wolfed down the delectable Peruvian chicken within minutes and thoroughly enjoyed every bite of the tender, juicy chicken. For variation in flavour, dip chunks of the meat into the house Aji Mild and Aji Hot sauces. Made using different amounts of aji amarillo peppers with coriander, garlic, vinegar and mayonnaise, some preferred the milder creamy green dip while others went wild over the feisty hot version. There is also fruity BBQ Peruano sauce.

“Most Peruvians will supplement their chicken feast with rice or potato fries and grilled veggies,” explained Carmen. “Our customers prefer the Latin Trio (RM5).” We soon discovered why − the slightly charred sweet potato, plantain and pineapple had such homespun appeal, it was easy to succumb to their basic, comforting taste.

I was also partial to Elote (RM5), grilled corn cob slathered with aji sauce, chilli powder and cheese. The buttery and fragrant Brasaria Rice – Peruvian yellow rice with raisins (RM5) was heartily satisfying. Ditto for the addictive Salchipapas (RM5), deep-fried French Fries (RM5) with strips of fried chicken frankfurters and a choice of house sauces.

Grilled Vegetable (RM5) comprising eggplant, zucchini, carrot and capsicum dices tossed in a piquant sauce made a complementary side to the overall equation.

Pasta lovers may like to sample El Tallarines (RM14.90). A typical spaghetti dish tossed in Peruvian pesto with shredded roast chicken and a sprinkling of cheese, it won the day thanks to the dish’s fresh herbaceous and nutty-savoury accents.

After that stellar line-up, we reckon El Sanguche ‘The Sandwich’ (RM14.90) paled by comparison. Okay, the soft roll filled with hand-pulled chicken with mixed greens, aji sauce and salsa criollo was decent enough but was nothing to write home about.

Since no dessert was available that day, we made do with Agua Fresca (RM5), a refreshing drink made with fresh fruit of the day as the palate refresher.

For reservations, call Brasaria, tel: 03-7627 4626. Address: D-59-G, Block D, Jaya One, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.