TANTALISING TEMPTATIONS OF TAAN THAI

The seasonal dish of Yellow Cockle Curry (RM32.90) alone is reason enough to make the trip to Taan Thai at Sunway Velocity. Freshly shucked, the cockles’ availability bears testament to the philosophy of Taan Thai — literally to “Eat Thai” i.e. cook thoughtfully, serve with intention, and waste nothing.

 
We are stoked to find the cockles barely cooked, just firm enough to hold their sweet mineral nuance, bathed in a gently spiced curry perfumed with cha om (acacia leaves).

Each component of the Signature Appetiser Platter (RM49.90) offers a measured glimpse into the culinary team's budding abilities. A well-composed introduction, it teases our palate with the charred smokiness of pandan-wrapped chicken, a custard-soft mackerel otak, deliciously crisp prawn fritters, scrumptious skewers of grilled pork, and a punchy savoury mackerel dip with cucumber.

 
The Mieng Kam (RM18.90) arrives neatly composed instead of leaving diners to assemble their own. Each betel leaf parcel unleashes a well-balanced profusion of sweet, savoury, and herbal notes. Calibrated with a dab of house-made caramelised shrimp paste, we relish the appetiser’s delicately flavourful depth.

Also on-point are the moreish Crispy Prawn Donuts (RM24.90). Bite into one and you'd find the exterior shatters lightly, giving way to a springy, well-seasoned prawn filling that induces repeat servings.

Soups are treated with much deserved patience. The bright and clean Clear Tom Yum Seafood Soup (RM49.90) delights with its finely tuned acidity, while the Coconut Chicken Soup with Galangal (RM27.90) exudes a softer, more rounded profile.

Touting a culinary team focused on the importance of balance stemming from the use of house-made pastes - ground fresh from herbs and spices - they form the backbone of winsome dishes like the rich and creamy Khao Soi with chicken (RM22.90) or beef (RM28.90) and the pleasant, lingering sharpness of Tangy Pork Belly & Morning Glory Curry (RM29.90). 

Familiar and rare specialities beckon too. Comforting mainstays include house-made Pure Mackerel Thai Fish Cakes (RM18.90) and Pomelo Salad with Signature Taan Thai Dressing (RM23.90) whilst fiery trail-blazers of Spicy Isaan Thai Beef Salad and Southern Thai Minced Chicken Dry Curry (RM20.90) should please chilli heat-seeking fiends.

Equally compelling is the seabass selection. Edging ahead is the Deep Fried Seabass in Spicy & Sour Curry (RM64.90), thanks to the addition of fluffy cha om omelette that soaks up the sauce nicely. Its counterpart, dressed in a vibrant Thai herb and fruit dressing, is lighter but no less engaging.

For those who appreciate greens with character, the Kai Cha-Om (RM19.90) leaves an indelible impression thanks to its unmistakable acacia aroma in omelette form, while the Stir-fried Melinjo with Egg (RM22.90) offers an agreeable bitter counterpoint.

 
Pork dishes are adroitly handled. The Spicy Isaan-style Grilled Pork Neck Salad (RM32.90) carries a gentle smokiness, the Pad Kra Pow Moo Sap (RM23.90) is punchy without being harsh, and the Braised Pork Knuckle (RM32.90) leans into comforting, familiar flavours.

 
Street food staple like Pad See Ew (RM21.90) is given due respect. The flat rice noodles flaunts whiffs of wok hei - that elusive breath of the wok lending heady flavoursome depth to the soy-slicked fried noodles.

Desserts are straightforward but well-judged. Tub Tim Krob (RM14.90) refreshes with its cool sweetness and textural contrast, while Mango Sticky Rice (RM16.90) closes the meal on a comforting note. In Kuala Lumpur’s heat, the invigorating Tom Yum Cooler (RM15.90) and Pandan Cooler with Basil Seeds (RM8.90) provide welcome relief.

Taan Thai is not about theatrics but about clarity of flavour, respect for ingredients, and cooking that's grounded in heart and experience rather than excess. And in today’s dining landscape, that makes Taan Thai worth returning to.

 
For more info and reservations at Taan Thai, call tel: 011-6547 1811. Address: Lot B-25, B1 Floor, Sunway Velocity Mall, Lingkaran SV, Kuala Lumpur.

THAI ISAAN TEMPTATIONS AT MERA

Coated in airy-light wisps of batter, the crispy catfish with green mango and cashews or Yam Pa Dok Ko (RM48), is the show-stealer at Mera. The huge chunks of deep-fried catfish form a sublime combination with a tart-salty-tangy salad of shredded mango, onion and roasted cashews.

While most Thai restaurants in the Klang Valley serve central Thai food, mostly Bangkok-style, we rarely come across any Thai resto showcasing Isaan food. Now, Mera at Damansara Kim has an Isaan-born chef at the helm, tasked with ensuring the authentic essence of Isaan cooking is retained whilst catering to Malaysian palates.

Dishes from the North-eastern Thai province of Isaan flaunt bolder, more robust flavours: making them spicier and sourer. Culinary influences from Laos and Cambodia also hold sway, with fresh herbs such as lemongrass, galangal, lime, chillies and garlic commonly used. Glutinous rice is another staple; a perfect vessel to capture those punchy, vibrant flavours.

Aside from the memorable crispy catfish salad, Mera serves several typical Isaan salads. Topping the list is Som Tum (RM38), fresh and crunchy Isaan-style young papaya salad with full-blown spicy-briny-sour-garlicky accents. Cherry tomatoes add a tinge of fruitiness to it. 

Another popular option is Larb Moo (RM48), spicy-salty minced pork salad seasoned with fish sauce, chilli flakes, lime juice and assorted fresh Thai herbs. However, the one we tried tasted somewhat underwhelming so if you prefer a no-holds-barred version, let the Mera team know.

Happily, the flavour quotient is dialled back up by Tom Sap, hot and sour pork soup. Thanks to the various aromatics: sawtooth coriander, cilantro, lemongrass, dried chillies, onion and tomatoes, this clear, sweet tom yum soup gets the thumbs up.

Grilled Isaan sausages or Sa Kork Isaan (RM48) are also worth sampling. The stuffing is made using fermented pork mince, rice and garlic, and laced with strands of glass noodles, rendering the sausages with a distinct tang. This popular Isaan street food snack is usually enjoyed with chopped bird’s eye chilli, raw cabbage or cucumber and cut ginger.

Fat. Lean. Gelatinous. These varied meat textures make Kao Ka Moo (RM48), a comforting dish of braised pork trotter with hardboiled egg utterly delectable and soul-satisfying. To counter any discernible meaty richness, we savour the melt-in-the-mouth chunks of pork with blanched greens, pickles and a zingy house made chilli dip.

Kor Moo Yang (RM58) – barbecued pork neck is another crowd-pleaser. The pork slices look rather lean at first glance but on closer inspection, they bear an irresistible layer of fat on top, amplifying the pork’s juiciness. A salty-sweet chilli and toasted rice dip helps to boost the smoky, fatty taste profile.

The flavoursome party continues with Moo Yang Nam Tok (RM48), spicy and sour grilled pork salad. Tossed with shallot, cilantro, lemongrass, mint, basil, and crushed roasted rice; each stimulating mouthful leaves us hankering for more.

 

Speckled with aromatic fried garlic bits, Gai Yang (RM48) – Isaan-style grilled chicken cuts a swath with us too. Marinated with lemongrass and fish sauce, the juicy and tender chook comes accompanied by a tantalising dip of lime juice, fish sauce, chilli flakes, palm sugar, chopped coriander and toasted rice.

Steamed with lime, chilli and garlic, the deliciously tender squid dish of Pla Muk Meung Manao (RM68) instantly reels us in with its bold, piquant flavours. It’s irresistible when paired with the scrumptious Crispy Pork Fried Rice (RM38). We can’t get enough of the fluffy, wispy egg-coated fried rice studded with cubes of crispy pork crackling.

 

Pandan juice and pumpkin purée bestow jade green and cheery orange hues for the dessert of glutinous rice balls in sweetened coconut milk. Known as Bua Loy (floating lotus in Thai), the soft and slightly chewy balls, interspersed with strips of jackfruit in the coconut milk, broth prove nice and light yet interesting enough as a sweet conclusion to our meal.

Currently, an a la carte menu is available at Mera. Diners with advance reservations may ask for the chef’s table, featuring a specially composed menu priced from RM150++ upwards per person.

 

For reservations, call MERA, tel: 018-268 2333. Address: 6, Jalan SS20/10, Damansara Kim, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.