Showing posts with label fine dining. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fine dining. Show all posts

Thursday, December 14, 2023

A REFINED TASTE OF CULTURE AT FLOUR

 

Allow spice master and culinary maestro Yogesh Upadhyay a.k.a. Chef Yogi take you on a whirlwind tour of India, culturally and gastronomically at Flour.
Throw whatever you presumably know about Indian food and let Chef Yogi change your perspective of Indian cuisine. The chef-restaurateur is redefining the food of his native land for the future in his own intrepid way, where “each and every course at Flour is a planned journey of the food feeding the body; the intention feeding the soul.”

His mind-changing, progressive French-Indian offerings are so future-forward, only adventurous and liberal diners will find his specialities acceptable.

According to Chef Yogi, “the Indian continent consists of different regions and each has its own unique flavours and ingredients. Likewise, each course in Flour’s menu is my interpretation on how Indian food has evolved whilst remaining faithful to its roots.
 
“Indian specialities are characterised by the use of spices, not chilli. You’d discover fresh narratives on the judicious and diverse use of spices here, learn about the origins of regional dishes and delve into vegetarianism which is inherent to India’s foodscape. I’m serving a taste of culture, not just food at Flour.”

Housed in a charming, white-washed bungalow in the heart of KL since 2020, Flour was initially located at Damansara Heights some seven years ago. The sleek and contemporary interior is almost monochromatic in its colour scheme, with some eye-catching artworks and a water fountain serving as key focal points.

According to the Rajasthan-born chef, “The restaurant name was inspired by flour, an essential ingredient for the making of bread. Without flour, there’d be no Indian food.”

Although Chef Yogi was roped into his father’s restaurant business in his teens, the rebel in him opted to pursue hotel management and French culinary arts. Determined to make his own mark, he relocated to Dubai and ventured into the aviation industry.

In 2014 Yogi came to Malaysia, to work for Air Asia X. He met and married his wife who then encouraged him to open Flour. “She said my culinary efforts changed her perception of Indian food and I should showcase my skills to a broader audience.”

Chef Yogi said “Flour brings the future of Indian cuisine to the present, based on my knowledge and research on the past, using modern French techniques and thoughtfully composed degustation-style menus.”

The chef will personally share interesting facts on the historical aspects and origins of the food served, with every element down to the smallest details meticulously planned. “I’m the guide on the culinary journey; to help diners gain greater understanding of Indian cuisine. Dining here is more than just an experience; it’s a taste of culture.”

From the a la carte menu, the stellar opening of smoky Quail Tikka (RM35++) left us spellbound. Spiced curd-marinated quails were tandoor-roasted to perfection, rendering the quail tender and juicy down to the bone. A side dip of housemade curd dotted with tamarind lent a lush, appetising dimension.

“Quail and game birds are native to India; in the old days, people used to forage for them as the native protein source” said Chef Yogi. “The secret lies in mustard seed oil, to give the quail deep-seated flavour and incomparable aroma.”


Unsurprisingly, his adroit skills shone through in the Vegetable Charcoal Roast (RM38++). Banking on a useful tip gleaned from the Persians, he infused rose water into the saucy base of housemade curd and bird’s eye chilli oil, letting it bring the inherent vegetal-fruitiness of the roasted baby eggplants, capsicum, and cherry tomatoes to full bloom onto our palate.

Italian Marzano tomatoes formed the backbone to Flour’s legendary Butter Chicken, listed as Spring Chicken & Tomato (RM68++) in the menu. Lightly spiced with green cardamom powder and fenugreek leaves, Chef Yogi had cooked those tomatoes to such velvety consistency, it seemed like he had unleashed a burst of brilliant sunshine onto our tastebuds, through the vermillion sauce.

Dousing that sumptuous sauce onto Jeera Rice (RM18++) then savouring the cumin-speckled rice, as we picked the bones clean off those deliciously tender chunks of spring chicken tikka, was heavenly.
How could we not lick the plate clean when the stellar dish of Konju Moilee appeared. Every exquisite bite of the charcoal-grilled prawns in mustard seed-accented coconut milk sauce and bird’s eye chilli oil knocked our socks off.
Also jostling for our attention and tummy space was Ajwaini Baingan (RM55++), cute roasted baby eggplants in a robust sauce of onion, tomato with ajwain and thyme.
 
We couldn’t help but soak up that bright, tantalising sauce with freshly made Laccha (RM15++), thin, multi-layered wholewheat bread which the chef referred to as the croissant of India.
For textural contrast, we returned to sample those irresistible dishes again with pieces of feather-light Puri (RM15++), fried wholewheat bread with semolina, with equally agreeable results.
Served with basil curd, crisp-fried shallot graced the bowl of Mutton Biryani (RM90++); a show-stopping speciality that could have easily left us replete on its own. Cubes of meltingly tender mutton embedded within the saffron-scented basmati rice, proved second-to-none in the taste department.

Wrapping up our lavish cultural passage to India came Kubhanika Meetha (RM35++), a dainty white apricot tart which the chef told us to eat in one bite. Its ephemeral sweetness was a most befitting masterstroke to conclude our insightful discovery of Indian culture through Flour’s refined repertoire.
For reservations at FLOUR, tel: 03-4065 7400, 012-9600 053. Address: No.12 & 14, Jalan Kamuning, Off Jalan Imbi, Kuala Lumpur.

 

Thursday, November 09, 2023

PRINCELY SET LUNCH AT JOON DINING

Lamb, lobster, dry-aged chicken. These are some of the tempting choices you'd find Joon Dining's Set Lunch...minus the princely sum. The restaurant’s 3 course Set Lunch at RM48++ per person and 4 course for RM60++ per person is a good deal these days.

The culinary force here is 43-year old Tyrell Joon whose fine-dining credentials include stints at the much-lauded Les Amis and Iggy’s in Singapore. Opened last year, Joon Dining is part of the Rare Food Company; the modern, minimalist restaurant is located at B.Land in Petaling Jaya where several other hipster joints are also onsite.
 
Chef Joon said “the set lunch is a pared-down version of our degustation menu. Our aim is to entice more local diners to try Joon Dining’s specialities; enabling them to learn about my modern European cooking infused with Asian influences. We hope they will understand and appreciate the new ingredients we use, and our innovative food preparation techniques such as meat ageing and sous vide. We also want to educate more people on food and wine pairings.”
The Set Lunch first course comprised warm, house-made Ciabatta Roll with Garlic Lemon Butter – a nice starter to whet the appetite whilst we perused through the list of five starters, five main courses and two desserts.
My personal favourite starter is the truffle oil-scented Mushroom Cappuccino with Sourdough Melba Toast. Foamy at first sip, we took to the lush and creamy soup instantly; relishing every delicious spoonful in-between bites of the crisp wafer-thin toast.
Tossed with shredded lettuce, purple cabbage and chunks of pomelo sacs, the refreshingly tangy Baby Octopus al ajillo style (it means cooked in garlic) came flecked with crisp garlic and chilli flakes. This on-point salad also got the thumbs up.

Chef Joon’s Sautéed Wild Mushroom with slightly chewy Duck Gizzard and Balsamic Crème proved winsome too. We enjoyed the varied range of textural interplay from the custardy soft onsen egg, chewy gizzard and tender fungi. The lightly toasted pieces of bread were great for mopping up the sauce.

Another locally inspired appetiser is Pani Puri. The fried semolina-wheat dough, sized like ping-pong balls, came with an appetising filling of diced salmon, compressed apple and ginger ponzu dressing. So fun and delightful to eat.
Vegetarians and health-conscious diners may opt for Roasted Cauliflower with Salted Egg Gribiche, Pumpkin Seeds, and Sultanas. Joon tweaked the gribiche (French cold egg sauce) with salted egg yolks, emulsifying it with oil and mustard then adding chopped chervil to finish. Sultanas and pumpkin seeds lent mild sweetness and crunch to the dish.

Zingy Sichuan peppercorns’ tongue-tingling heat dialled up the appeal of Mala Mongolian Lamb Ragout. Served with mini fried mantou buns, we had a field day chomping on the juicy chunks of lamb amidst soft radish pieces and deep-fried lotus root crisps.
Chef Joon’s meat-ageing showcase is exemplified by his Free Range Dry Aged Chicken Confit with Tajin Lyonnaise Potatoes and Sweet Corn Velouté. Complemented by sweet, creamy smooth velouté, caramelised onion and fried baby potatoes, the tender chicken and spiced potatoes hit the spot for us. He told us the ageing process tenderises the meat and intensifies its flavour.

For a supplementary charge of RM18, you can savour the chef’s show-stealing Lobster Pasta. The natural sweetness of the wild-caught spiny lobster meat was accentuated by mellow spicy-sour kimchi sauce, making it a superb pairing with his fresh, handmade pasta.
Tuak along with chilli and garlic was Joon’s choice to flavour his famed Vongole Pasta (RM48). Suffused by the heady rice wine and aromatics, the Bornean clams’ sea-sweetness was thoroughly soaked up by the house-made pasta.

The Super Seafood Paella (supplementary charge of RM28) was laden with clams, prawns and half a lobster (mixed seafood may change dependent on catch of the day). Rendered with tomato cream and sweet basil aioli, this hearty rice dish left no room for complaints.
From the a la carte line-up, we fished for Broiled Izumidai with Ulam Raja Parmesan Espuma and Choy Poh Popcorn (RM58). TBH, we found the tiny bits of preserved radish ‘popcorn’ barely made a difference to the sweet white Nile tilapia, somewhat eclipsed by the more distinct nuances of parmesan and local herb.

Dessert was a tad underwhelming as only Lemon Cheese Curd Tart was available during our visit. Even though the tart had canned peach slices and honey tuile as adornments, the lemon curd didn’t leave any impression.
Dry-ageing eel and chicken in the special cabinet at Joon Dining

For reservations at Joon Dining, call tel: 016-848 4257. Address: Lot 1, b. Land, 2, Jalan 51a/225, Seksyen 51a, Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Business hours: Mon-Sat 12 noon – 2 pm; 6 pm – 9 pm

 

Thursday, September 07, 2023

OISHII SHOWCASE OF OITA SPECIALITIES AT KAMPACHI


For the uninitiated, Japan's 
Oita prefecture is known for its hot springs (onsen) particularly in Beppu and Yufuin. A culinary haven with its own exceptional food culture, Oita boasts abundant local produce from the mountains and sea. Hence fresh catches of fish and seafood, kabosu (native lime), nashi pear and muscat grapes among others take pride of place at Kampachi restaurant's current Oita showcase.

At the recent media preview, a standee of Kabosu Nukumizu – the kawaii (cute) mascot of Oita prefecture caught our eye within the dining outpost in Plaza 33. Oita is out to entice more Malaysians to discover its plethora of food and drink delicacies until 24 September.
Risa Ito, Director General of Oita Foreign Trade Association (left) together with Takahiro Gokita, CEO of Fan Japan (M) Sdn Bhd and Manabu Fujimoto, Managing Director of Inspire Corporation, shared snippets of interesting information about Oita prefecture with us throughout the evening.

The specially composed Oita menu at Kampachi restaurants is akin to a sensorial feast of Oita delicacies. To toast the collaboration, specially concocted cocktails: Kabosu Tonic (mixture of shochu and kabosu, RM38) and Yuzu Honey Shochu High Ball (RM38) as well as mocktails: Matcha Ichigo Mirukusheku (bottom pix, RM28) and Matcha Yuzu (RM28) will be available to tickle your fancy.
Suffice to say the cocktails should leave you in high spirits whilst teetotalers will find ample delight in the mocktails: the first similar to a light milkshake, blending Oita green tea with fresh strawberry and the second (below pix), a mixture of matcha and Japanese citron evoking clean, fresh grassy-citrusy accents.
 
Making an indelible splash with us was the sumptuous Buri Sushi (RM150). Shaped into nigiri sushi, each one came dotted with different Oita condiments: Kabosu Kosho, Ougon-Yuzukoshou, Yuzu Kosho, Oba-Kosho and Red Pepper Yuzu Kosho.
 
Just like our sambal, the Japanese paste is made from fresh red/green chillies fermented with yuzu juice and zest, and salt. Kabosu, yuzu, oba leaf, and red pepper render the condiment with varying levels of spiciness and zingy nuances. The assorted condiments certainly heightened our enjoyment of the Buri Sushi.

We were also smitten with Ryukyu (RM98) in which slices of marinated raw salmon, tuna, amberjack, squid and scallop were draped atop mounds of rice.

Every mouthful of the irresistible fish and rice was aptly complemented by an exclusive Oita-brewed sake with a 50% rice polishing ratio (RPR). In sake-making, the level of RPR will determine the desired and resultant taste profile of each sake.

Served at room temperature, the delicate umami-sweetness of Saiki Hisho, an artisanal sake with a 65% RPR and the distinctive Bungo Meijyo no Umeshu left us game for more.

Sake enthusiasts will have a chance to meet Oita’s master sake brewers at Kampachi Plaza 33 on September 21 and Kampachi EQKL on 22 September at a special Oita food and sake pairing dinner. Limited to only 40 seats per venue, the dinner priced at RM742 nett per person featuring a selection of rare sake from Oita which have never been exported.

We also had a chance to taste a ‘gold’ soy sauce specially formulated to complement sushi and carpaccio. Served to accompany Hirame no Kobujime (RM145), thinly sliced hirame (Japanese flounder) cured with konbu seaweed, the gold soy sauce with hints of vinegar and fish sauce in it, enabled us to appreciate the hirame’s delicacy even more.
Coated in crisp, airy-light batter, Toriten (RM48) - delectable morsels of deep-fried chicken tempura with ponzu sauce - sparked joy at first bite. One could easily get addicted to them.
 
The offering of Dango Jiru (RM65) proved comforting and soul-satisfying. The flat, slippery noodles in addition to tofu puffs, spring onion, carrot, radish, cabbage, chicken and mushrooms cooked in a pale, creamy miso broth won us over with its savoury richness
Sweet ending options include refreshing Nashi (pear), Budou (muscat grapes) & dollops of tart yuzu Jelly (RM48), and Sorakita Mochi (RM22).
Unique to Oita, the slightly chewy, semi-flattened mochi was made using sweet potato stuffed with red bean and chestnut filling. Lightly dusted with kinako (roasted soybean) powder, the delightful treat tasted mildly sweet - a befitting way to conclude your Oita culinary adventure. 

For advance reservations and more information on the Oita prefecture showcase and sake pairing dinner at Kampachi, email: kampachi@equatorial.com or log onto: https://linktr.ee/KampachiOfficial

 

 

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