SEAFOOD GALORE AT PENGHULU SEAFOOD

Penghulu Crisp Fried Thai Style (market price) or ‘Lai Sa’ Fish in Chinese, was the show-stealer during our maiden lunch at Penghulu Seafood.

Sliced then coated in a sheer dusting of flour, the fish slices were fried until crisp. Afterwards the tilapia slices were assembled back as a whole fish, served with a heap of sliced onion, chilli, curry leaves and fried garlic crisps. We enjoyed the deliciously on-point fish. A separate dip of plum sauce, kalamansi lime juice and sugar lent it extra boost of flavour (not that the fish needed it).

This was one of the dishes at Penghulu Seafood. The restaurant specialises in Muslim-friendly Chinese cuisine with 46-year-old chef Wan Yee Kwong helming the kitchen team. Ikan bakar (grilled fish) and steamboat with fresh seafood and premium ingredients are also on the menu.

Us avid noodle fans thoroughly relished the Fried Tenderloin Beef Noodles (small RM24, medium RM35, large RM46). Topped with a thick, eggy sauce, the subtly smoky-charred noodles and sliced beef primed our appetite in anticipation of other goodies to come.

 

Thai and local influences melded nicely in the Grilled Stingray. Marinated with a dash of turmeric, the fleshy stingray’s natural sweetness proved enticing. Such a pity the two accompanying sauces were a tad watery and failed to perk up the dish. Hopefully the restaurant will work on improving the sauces.

 

Don’t let the fiery hues of the E San Seafood Tom Yum (S RM24, M RM30, L RM44) be a deterrent as the well-balanced soup tasted milder than expected. Chilli fiends can always request for the hotness to be dialled up.

 

Surrounded by deep-fried shredded kailan, the Garlic Mixed Seafood with Kailan (S RM50, M RM75, L RM100) proffered a nice milieu of textural contrasts: tender and springy squid and prawns touched with a Thai-style dressing of fish sauce, chilli, salt, sugar and lime juice against the savouriness of crispy greens, silverfish and dried shrimps.

According to the chef, his Pattaya Chicken (S RM24, M RM35, L RM45) was another pseudo-Thai creation. After the chicken had to be fried using the ‘oil bath’ method, the chook came piled with sliced onion, fresh coriander, Thai chilli and fish sauce, and lime juice. The chicken was tender and juicy, with the piquant sauce tantalising our tastebuds.

A surefire crowd-pleaser, the Belacan Four King Vegetables (S RM20, M RM28, L RM38) comprising long beans, petai (stink beans), eggplant and okra stir-fried with pounded chilli and belacan (shrimp paste) was robustly spicy.

The chef’s Chilli Prawns (S RM42, M RM60, L RM80) – sizeable crustaceans drenched in a mouth-watering tomato-chilli sauce, echoed the flavourful accents of Singapore’s chilli crabs.

 

We found the salt and pepper accentuated Deep-fried Soft Shell Crabs (M RM44, L RM85) passed muster whilst Teochew-style Steamed Jenahak (snapper, market price) with its requisite accompaniments: sliced beancurd, kiam chye (salted mustard leaves)and shiitake mushrooms should appeal to those who prefer clear, understated flavours.

For dessert, you may order Thai Pumpkin Custard from Penghulu Seafood’s sister restaurant E San Thai next door. The delightfully soft steamed pumpkin with its custardy centre was the perfect closure to our indulgent lunch.

For reservations, call Penghulu Seafood at 011-5633 6377. Address: G-G-3A, Block G, Jalan PJU1A/3, Ara Damansara, Petaling Jaya, Malaysia. Business hours: Mon-Thurs 11.30am – 3pm, 5pm – 10pm. Fri 11.30 – 3pm. Closed Tuesday. 

 

THAI ISAAN TEMPTATIONS AT MERA

Coated in airy-light wisps of batter, the crispy catfish with green mango and cashews or Yam Pa Dok Ko (RM48), is the show-stealer at Mera. The huge chunks of deep-fried catfish form a sublime combination with a tart-salty-tangy salad of shredded mango, onion and roasted cashews.

While most Thai restaurants in the Klang Valley serve central Thai food, mostly Bangkok-style, we rarely come across any Thai resto showcasing Isaan food. Now, Mera at Damansara Kim has an Isaan-born chef at the helm, tasked with ensuring the authentic essence of Isaan cooking is retained whilst catering to Malaysian palates.

Dishes from the North-eastern Thai province of Isaan flaunt bolder, more robust flavours: making them spicier and sourer. Culinary influences from Laos and Cambodia also hold sway, with fresh herbs such as lemongrass, galangal, lime, chillies and garlic commonly used. Glutinous rice is another staple; a perfect vessel to capture those punchy, vibrant flavours.

Aside from the memorable crispy catfish salad, Mera serves several typical Isaan salads. Topping the list is Som Tum (RM38), fresh and crunchy Isaan-style young papaya salad with full-blown spicy-briny-sour-garlicky accents. Cherry tomatoes add a tinge of fruitiness to it. 

Another popular option is Larb Moo (RM48), spicy-salty minced pork salad seasoned with fish sauce, chilli flakes, lime juice and assorted fresh Thai herbs. However, the one we tried tasted somewhat underwhelming so if you prefer a no-holds-barred version, let the Mera team know.

Happily, the flavour quotient is dialled back up by Tom Sap, hot and sour pork soup. Thanks to the various aromatics: sawtooth coriander, cilantro, lemongrass, dried chillies, onion and tomatoes, this clear, sweet tom yum soup gets the thumbs up.

Grilled Isaan sausages or Sa Kork Isaan (RM48) are also worth sampling. The stuffing is made using fermented pork mince, rice and garlic, and laced with strands of glass noodles, rendering the sausages with a distinct tang. This popular Isaan street food snack is usually enjoyed with chopped bird’s eye chilli, raw cabbage or cucumber and cut ginger.

Fat. Lean. Gelatinous. These varied meat textures make Kao Ka Moo (RM48), a comforting dish of braised pork trotter with hardboiled egg utterly delectable and soul-satisfying. To counter any discernible meaty richness, we savour the melt-in-the-mouth chunks of pork with blanched greens, pickles and a zingy house made chilli dip.

Kor Moo Yang (RM58) – barbecued pork neck is another crowd-pleaser. The pork slices look rather lean at first glance but on closer inspection, they bear an irresistible layer of fat on top, amplifying the pork’s juiciness. A salty-sweet chilli and toasted rice dip helps to boost the smoky, fatty taste profile.

The flavoursome party continues with Moo Yang Nam Tok (RM48), spicy and sour grilled pork salad. Tossed with shallot, cilantro, lemongrass, mint, basil, and crushed roasted rice; each stimulating mouthful leaves us hankering for more.

 

Speckled with aromatic fried garlic bits, Gai Yang (RM48) – Isaan-style grilled chicken cuts a swath with us too. Marinated with lemongrass and fish sauce, the juicy and tender chook comes accompanied by a tantalising dip of lime juice, fish sauce, chilli flakes, palm sugar, chopped coriander and toasted rice.

Steamed with lime, chilli and garlic, the deliciously tender squid dish of Pla Muk Meung Manao (RM68) instantly reels us in with its bold, piquant flavours. It’s irresistible when paired with the scrumptious Crispy Pork Fried Rice (RM38). We can’t get enough of the fluffy, wispy egg-coated fried rice studded with cubes of crispy pork crackling.

 

Pandan juice and pumpkin purée bestow jade green and cheery orange hues for the dessert of glutinous rice balls in sweetened coconut milk. Known as Bua Loy (floating lotus in Thai), the soft and slightly chewy balls, interspersed with strips of jackfruit in the coconut milk, broth prove nice and light yet interesting enough as a sweet conclusion to our meal.

Currently, an a la carte menu is available at Mera. Diners with advance reservations may ask for the chef’s table, featuring a specially composed menu priced from RM150++ upwards per person.

 

For reservations, call MERA, tel: 018-268 2333. Address: 6, Jalan SS20/10, Damansara Kim, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.

'PENTAS CITARASA' TAKES CENTRESTAGE FOR BUKA PUASA AT PUTRAJAYA MARRIOTT

Over a hundred Malay and Southeast Asian delicacies will form a stellar culinary cast for Putrajaya Marriott’s buka puasa buffet this Ramadan month.

Aptly named “Pentas Citarasa”, the cornucopia of dishes for breaking of fast featuring over 15 sections will leave diners spoiled for choice. Whether you’re craving for street food staples or exotic delicacies from Thailand or Japan, the Marriott chefs have left no woks unturned at Zest.

Mutton gristle with Mee Rebus deserves special mention – a rare delectable find amidst the more familiar Mamak Mee and Mee Siam from the Warung Mee stall. It takes a bit of effort and patience to work through the gristly bits but that’s the fun in giving your jaw a good workout.

Huge woks of assorted curries beckon invitingly from the 7 Kawah Waklan: from fiery red to creamy rich, robustly spiced versions, the delicious curries are best doused onto plain rice complemented by Ulam-ulaman and Sambal Belacan. Tempoyak Ikan Tenggiri, Chicken Rendang, Udang Sambal Petai, Daging Kuzi, Gulai Kambing, and Daging Singgang are a fraction of what's available at the buffet.

Soup is up with a wide range beckoning: Sup Tulang Rawan to Tom Yum. From the Land of Smiles come aromatic offerings of Hor Mok (Thai spiced fish mousse), Som Tham (papaya salad), Gai Hor Bai Toey (fried chicken wrapped in pandan), and Thai-style Fish Cakes.

Venture further to the Japanese section for delightful servings of Takoyaki, Vegetable Tempura and Maki Rolls. Nearby Stir-fried Cockles and Clams, Fried Rice, Assorted Dim Sum and Stir-fried Radish Cake beckon from the Shanghai-Nanjing Road counter.

Fish lovers should find plenty of grilled fish and seafood to sample at Medan Bakar-bakar. Chefs will be on hand to cook up Lidah Bakar (grilled beef tongue), Seafood Kava (a medley of prawns, mussels, crabs, squid and bamboo clams cooked on a griddle), and Assorted Ikan Bakar (selection of grilled fish in various spice marinades).

Tastes of the Indian continent come in the guises of Naan, Tandoori Chicken, Idli and Vadai, Apom and Roti Canai with the ubiquitous condiments.

Over at the Raja Segala Rojak counter, a choice of Rojak Buah, Rojak Singapura, Gado-Gado and Pasembur is rustled up for you on request.

Leave with Sweet Memories by sampling Assorted Biscuits of yesteryears or succumb to the allure of colourful Cakes, Bread & Butter Pudding, Malay Kuih, Dodol, Dates, and thick dessert broths of Serawa Durian, and Pengat Pisang. Out by the patio is a counter specially dispensing durians for fans of the King of Fruits.

Pentas Citarasa buka puasa buffet (6.30pm – 10pm) at Zest Lifestyle Restaurant is available at RM198 nett per adult and RM99 nett per child. Early Bird Offer price available from now until 23 March at RM148 nett per adult and RM74 per child.

For reservations, please call Putrajaya Marriott Ramadan Hotline, tel: 03-8949 8888 x 1014/1028/ 1029/1053 or WhatsApp +6011 5685 5608 or visit marriottputrajaya.com