Coated
in airy-light wisps of batter, the crispy catfish with green mango and
cashews or Yam Pa Dok Ko (RM48), is the show-stealer at Mera. The huge chunks
of deep-fried catfish form a sublime combination with a
tart-salty-tangy salad of shredded mango, onion and roasted cashews.
While most Thai restaurants in
the Klang Valley serve central Thai food, mostly Bangkok-style, we rarely come
across any Thai resto showcasing Isaan food. Now, Mera at Damansara Kim has an Isaan-born chef at the helm, tasked with ensuring the
authentic essence of Isaan cooking is retained whilst catering to Malaysian
palates.
Dishes from the North-eastern
Thai province of Isaan flaunt bolder, more robust flavours: making them spicier
and sourer. Culinary influences from Laos and Cambodia also hold sway, with fresh herbs such as lemongrass, galangal, lime, chillies and garlic commonly used. Glutinous rice is another staple; a perfect vessel to capture those punchy, vibrant flavours.
Aside
from the memorable crispy catfish salad, Mera serves several typical Isaan
salads. Topping the list is Som Tum (RM38), fresh and crunchy Isaan-style young
papaya salad with full-blown spicy-briny-sour-garlicky accents. Cherry tomatoes
add a tinge of fruitiness to it.
Another
popular option is Larb Moo (RM48), spicy-salty minced pork salad seasoned with
fish sauce, chilli flakes, lime juice and assorted fresh Thai herbs. However,
the one we tried tasted somewhat underwhelming so if you prefer a no-holds-barred
version, let the Mera team know.
Happily,
the flavour quotient is dialled back up by Tom Sap, hot and sour pork
soup. Thanks to the various aromatics: sawtooth coriander, cilantro,
lemongrass, dried chillies, onion and tomatoes, this clear, sweet tom yum soup gets
the thumbs up.
Grilled
Isaan sausages or Sa Kork Isaan (RM48) are also worth sampling. The stuffing is made using
fermented pork mince, rice and garlic, and laced with strands of glass noodles, rendering the sausages with a distinct tang. This popular Isaan street food snack is usually enjoyed with chopped bird’s eye chilli, raw cabbage or cucumber
and cut ginger.
Fat.
Lean. Gelatinous. These varied meat textures make Kao Ka Moo (RM48), a comforting
dish of braised pork trotter with hardboiled egg utterly delectable and soul-satisfying. To counter any discernible meaty richness, we savour the melt-in-the-mouth chunks of pork with blanched
greens, pickles and a zingy house made chilli dip.
Kor Moo
Yang (RM58) – barbecued pork neck is another crowd-pleaser. The pork slices look
rather lean at first glance but on closer inspection, they bear an
irresistible layer of fat on top, amplifying the pork’s juiciness. A salty-sweet
chilli and toasted rice dip helps to boost the smoky, fatty taste profile.
The
flavoursome party continues with Moo Yang Nam Tok (RM48), spicy and sour
grilled pork salad. Tossed with shallot, cilantro, lemongrass, mint, basil, and crushed roasted rice; each stimulating mouthful leaves us hankering for more.
Speckled
with aromatic fried garlic bits, Gai Yang (RM48) – Isaan-style grilled chicken cuts
a swath with us too. Marinated with lemongrass and fish sauce, the juicy
and tender chook comes accompanied by a tantalising dip of lime juice, fish
sauce, chilli flakes, palm sugar, chopped coriander and toasted rice.
Steamed
with lime, chilli and garlic, the deliciously tender squid dish of Pla Muk
Meung Manao (RM68) instantly reels us in with its bold, piquant flavours. It’s
irresistible when paired with the scrumptious Crispy Pork Fried Rice (RM38). We
can’t get enough of the fluffy, wispy egg-coated fried rice studded with cubes
of crispy pork crackling.
Pandan
juice and pumpkin purée bestow jade green and cheery orange hues for the dessert
of glutinous rice balls in sweetened coconut milk. Known as Bua Loy (floating
lotus in Thai), the soft and slightly chewy balls, interspersed with strips of jackfruit in the coconut milk, broth prove nice
and light yet interesting enough as a sweet conclusion to our meal.
Currently,
an a la carte menu is available at Mera. Diners with advance reservations may ask for the chef’s table, featuring a specially composed menu priced from
RM150++ upwards per person.
For
reservations, call MERA, tel: 018-268 2333.
Address: 6, Jalan SS20/10, Damansara Kim, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.