R-EEL DELIGHTS AT TIEN

 
Export-grade live eels from China took centrestage at Tien restaurant, prepared in four different ways as part of the month-long ‘Flavours of Suria’ dining experiences at Suria KLCC mall recently.

In keeping with its "Always Something New” tagline, Suria KLCC invited local media members to hands-on workshops and exclusive tastings at tenant restaurants: Din, Fuel Shack, Cili Kampung, TGI Fridays, Imperial Chakri Palace and Tien.

We sampled a special seasonal menu of fresh Chinese eels at Tien by Putien, where four distinctive eel dishes were served. Flown-in from Guangzhou, we learned the eels are also exported to Japan. 

Fed with codfish powder, the eels are raised in open-air, clean water ponds. Putien uses 70 cm long eels weighing 600-800g each as they are fleshier with better bite. It’s the second year Tien is promoting these eels and the promotional offerings will be available until end October.

Our lunch began with Fresh Eel Cooked in Spring Water. It only took about ten minutes to cook the eel in spring water with spring onion, goji berries and ginger. Once done, we tasted the eel chunks which were surprisingly chewy. Its natural clear sweetness was notable when we tasted the broth and meat.

Rich, savoury soybean sauce produced in the city of Puning was instrumental in the preparation of Baked Eel with Puning Bean Sauce. Stir-fried with garlic, ginger and onion, the delicately sweet eel chunks were superbly flavourful thanks to the beany sauce and aromatics. Not surprising it was the most popular dish last year with Tien diners.

Although the generous amount of garlic was welcomed, a lesser amount of Yangjiang soybean sauce for the Steamed Eel in Garlic and Soy Bean Sauce would have been great. But that’s my own preference as others may like how the chef prepped it.

Sichuan peppercorns, dried chillies, garlic and ginger bestowed this year’s new Spicy Pan-fried Eel with some tongue-tingling ‘ma la’ power and spicy heat. This was another crowd favourite as most of us enjoyed the dish’s robust chilli-hotness.

All the eel dishes are priced at RM138 for a regular portion and will be available until end October.

For reservations at Tien by Putien, call tel: 03 2181 2839. Address: Lot 434, 4^th Floor, Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur City Centre. For more information on Suria KLCC mall, visit www.suriaklcc.com.my or www.facebook.com/SuriaKLCCMall. 

NEW TEMPTATIONS BECKON AT KAZUMA

Oden is one of those rare but delicious specialities few Japanese restaurants serve in the Klang Valley. Hence I was stoked when I discovered Oden Moriawase (RM22) is now available at Kazuma Japanese restaurant.

This homey, heartwarming stew comes with 6 types of Japanese fish cakes (chikuwa being my favourite), radish chunks, a hardboiled egg and toothsome konnyaku. Also known as konjac, the jiggly yet firm jelly-like blocks are made from the starch of devil’s tongue plant.

Kazuma’s chef Tsutomu Haneishi has also refreshed some offerings for the latest menu. Right off the bat, there’s now a small selection of Japanese appetisers to complement your drinks of choice.

We like the crisp-crunchiness of Koebi Karaage (RM15), deep-fried small shrimps and the succulence of Salmon Tataki Carpaccio (RM30), seared salmon sashimi with black sesame dressing.

Naturally, crowd-pleasing favourites such as Hama Sashimi (5 types of sliced raw fish: RM90 – 2 pcs each type, RM125 – 3 pcs each type) and Potato Salad (RM20) with creamy Japanese mayo have been retained.

For the former, diners may choose from maguro (tuna), salmon, hotate (scallop), hamachi (yellowtail), tako (octopus) and amaebi (sweet shrimp). Rest assured the Kazuma team strives to source the freshest seafood from around the world that measures up to the restaurant’s quality standards.

 

Our penchant for sushi was amply fulfilled on our recent visit with the introduction of Special Nigiri Sushi Tokujyou (RM87) into Kazuma’s new menu. The sea-fresh sweetness of those tender slices of maguro chutoro, hamachi, salmon, hotate, amaebi, unagi and ikura (vinegared rice topped with salmon roe) was certainly on-point.

Should you prefer cooked stuff, we recommend sampling Unagi Yanagawa (RM65), scrumptious simmered eel with vegetable and egg. Served bubbling hot in a little cast iron pot, we love every bite of the subtly sweet eel juxtaposed against the ethereal cloud-like softness of the egg.

Tendon (RM34), a wholesome meal in one consisting of steamed rice topped with assorted tempura, pickles and soup is another notably classic choice to satisfy the tastebuds. The mildly sweet sauce drizzled over the tempura and rice proved appetising, enticing us to polish off everything.

Heartier servings with splendid value for money are the new additions of Teishoku Sets. These beautifully composed set meals come with chawan mushi (steamed egg custard), steamed rice, miso soup, salad, pickles and fruits to accompany a choice of mains.

Having savoured Grilled Chicken Shioyaki/Teriyaki (RM35) and Unagi Kabayaki & Sashimi (RM70), we’d say both stellar options should hit the spot.

For vegetarians, Kazuma proffers a Vegetarian Bento (RM50). The tempting set comprised tofu steak, assorted vegetable tempura, pumpkin croquette, simmered vegetable, futomaki sushi and inari sushi. A visually and palatably pleasing set guaranteed to leave you happily satisfied.

Noodle enthusiasts aren’t forgotten either. We find it hard to decide whether Tempura Chasoba (RM22) or Shoyu Ramen and Inari Sushi (RM25) is better.

The former proffers springy buckwheat noodles which can be served hot or cold, accompanied by delectably crisp, airy-light battered prawns and vegetables.

If you prefer soupy noodles then the latter will hit the spot. We found the springy ramen in shoyu broth lighter on the palate, with the supplementary piece of inari sushi providing textural contrast.

Our requisite sweetener to conclude proceedings was Kurogoma (black sesame) Ice Cream (RM15) but other options available include Matcha Ice Cream (RM15) or Yuzu Sherbet (RM18).

For reservations, call Kazuma Japanese Restaurant, tel:03-2149 2666. Address: Level 1, Wisma Concorde, Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Sultan Ismail, KL. Business hours: Mon- Sat: 11.30am – 3pm, 6pm – 10pm. Closed on Sunday and public holidays.

WINSOME CULINARY GEMS AT BURI

Signature BURI Maki

A rolled sushi crowned with six different toppings: spicy salmon; scallop with avocado; sweet prawns with a cube of foie gras; marinated ikura (salmon roe); unagi with slivers of cucumber and crabstick dotted with caviar makes up the visually pleasing Buri Signature Maki (RM45).

It’s one of the many signature specialities by Chef Steve Chua and his partner Chef Edmund Chong for BURI by Two Chefs, a new Japanese outpost which opened on 9 September by the award-winning Two Chefs Lab team.

 

Named after the prized Japanese yellowtail, it’s a propitious indication of how well Chua and Chong have weathered the challenging times. A champion of the prestigious World Sushi Cup in Malaysia, and winner of the World Gourmet Award, the talented chefs now aim to win diners’ hearts, minds and palates with an even more tempting and creative selection – straddling crowd-pleasing sashimi and sushi, rice bowls and slightly fusion offerings like grilled lamb and torched black pork carpaccio at BURI.

As for the Buri Signature Maki, it’s a sublime serving worth savouring slowly. The freshness of each ingredients is unquestionable, and you’d have to take time to appreciate the myriad of textural contrasts and complementing flavours emerging from each of the morsels.

The creative handiwork is underscored in the whole platter so the resultant rolled sushi is not only visually pleasing, but it also teases sensuously. Suffice to say, the proof is truly in the eating.

When it comes to curtain-raisers, the beautifully presented Avocado Salad (RM22) is one of many notable choices. The profusion of fresh greens with mashed avocado decked with lotus root crisps, cherry tomatoes, beetroot spirals and a dollop of ebiko will spur salad-averse diners to load up without nary a complaint.

I give extra points for the Japanese sesame dressing being house made – it isn’t overly cloying, and used with restraint in the salad.

Prefer a tummy-warming appetiser? Then consider the Foie Gras Chawan Mushi (RM14.50). Silky smooth steamed egg custard topped with cubes of savoury rich foie gras...heavenly indulgence!

As Malaysian consumers become more sophisticated, some are beginning to realise it’s worth paying for good quality pork and beef. Hence the increased interest and demand for premium Waygu and Iberico. At BURI you’d have a chance to sample Kuro Buta Carpaccio (RM19).

Served with housemade chilli vinegar sauce, each piece of the juicy and tender sliced black pork is akin to a flavour bomb; an enticement for repeat helpings.

Diners with hearty appetite will enjoy BURI’s Gyu Don (RM42). Sliced Aussie beef complemented by an onsen Kenkori egg, two slices of takuan (Japanese yellow pickled radish) and chopped scallion graced the Japanese rice bowl.

While Aussie beef is already known in the local market for its eating quality, Kenkori eggs have yet to achieve that level of mass awareness. Produced using Japanese farming methods in Malaysia – the first of its kind – Kenkori eggs are enriched with Japanese Astaxanthin and Probiotic, are antibiotic and hormone-free, and are anti-salmonella and e.coli. These two ingredients already raise the quality standard of this particular rice bowl.

To further amplify and bring finesse to his culinary creation, the chef uses shio kombu and truffle oil as the finishing touches. According to Bon Appétit, “shio kombu are kelp boiled in soy sauce, mirin, and sugar, then dried and cut into small pieces. The flavor and aroma are intensely sweet with a hint of the ocean.”

With white rice serving as the canvas for all the different ingredients to meld and form a wondrous picture on the tastebuds, I daresay you’d find it hard not to succumb to such a heartwarming offering.

Japanese dessert is always simple and light and BURI follows the same philosophy. Try Warabi Mochi (RM12)– a summery Japanese jelly-like confection made from bracken or potato starch, served with kinako (toasted soybean powder) and a scoop of yuzu sherbet.

For more information and reservations, please call BURI By Two Chefs, tel: 03-97663438, hp: 010-5539910. Address: E-1-1, Pusat Perdagangan Bandar, Jalan Persiaran Jalil 1, Bukit Jalil, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: Monday to Saturday from 1130 am to 8pm.