SPANISH TAPAS AT AC LOUNGE

Tapas, meaning snacks or appetisers in Spanish, has evolved into a culinary artform at bars and restaurants around the world. Derived from the Spanish verb tapar (to cover), tapas initially constituted a piece of bread or sliced meat set atop one’s drink to keep flies away. The tapas selection eventually expanded as bartenders proffer them to encourage patrons to drink more.

Today, one can enjoy a tempting array of tapas at the AC Lounge (AC stands for Antonio Catalan) starting from 2.30 pm daily. Thanks to the inimitable touch of culinary consultant Angie Hiew, AC Lounge’s tapas menu makes this cosy hotel lounge a compelling spot to indulge in hors d'oeuvres and drinks with a Spanish spin.

Simple yet flavourful Classic Tomato Bruschetta (RM15) heralded a vivacious start to our sess. We made quick work of the toasted baguette topped with juicy chitose tomatoes marinated in olive oil, garlic, and herbs.

Wading into the AC Grazing Platter (RM50), we had a field day nibbling on three types of cheese, smoked salmon, lamb prosciutto, dried fruits, grapes, strawberries, nuts and crackers. Perfect fuel to spur convivial conversation and the sharing of bon-mots among our dining party.

Not all meatballs are created equal and I daresay the Albondigas (RM45) were out of the park. Juicy with a noticeably meltingly-tender mouthfeel, the wagyu beef meatballs simmered in a chunky tomato sauce aptly captured the essence of Spanish cuisine.

Another winsome must-try dish is Braised Beef Cheek (RM45). Hiew's culinary métier shone through as every bite of the slow-cooked speciality rewarded us with richly tender, deeply flavourful meat. Hints of red wine melded with natural meaty jus were discernible the longer we chewed

The visually appealing Seafood Paella (RM50) also floated our boat. We enjoyed the fragrant saffron-infused rice; its delicate spice sweetness was amped up by assorted succulent seafood: clams, mussels, prawns and squid, in addition to some tender asparagus.

We had no complaints with the sumptuous Gambas Al Ajillo (RM30) either. The irresistibly springy garlic prawns in garlic-infused olive oil should make a dream pairing with a crisp, semi-dry white wine.

An instantly likeable Chicken with Aioli (RM25) comprising tender boneless chicken with delightfully crispy skin also met with all round approval. The delicious chicken paired well with the lush, creamy house-made aioli.

Our merry feast then wrapped up with Churros (RM20) served with Chocolate Sauce. The cinnamon sugar-dusted, deep-fried dough fritters were sublime when dipped into melted chocolate.

Available from 2.30 pm to 10 pm, the AC Lounge’s tapas menu is also served at other AC Hotels in Penang and Kuantan.

For more information and reservations, call AC Lounge, tel: 03-40428000. Address: AC Hotel by Marriott Kuala Lumpur, 8, Jalan Lumut, Off Jalan Ipoh, Kuala Lumpur.

 

A REFINED TASTE OF CULTURE AT FLOUR

 

Allow spice master and culinary maestro Yogesh Upadhyay a.k.a. Chef Yogi take you on a whirlwind tour of India, culturally and gastronomically at Flour.

Throw whatever you presumably know about Indian food and let Chef Yogi change your perspective of Indian cuisine. The chef-restaurateur is redefining the food of his native land for the future in his own intrepid way, where “each and every course at Flour is a planned journey of the food feeding the body; the intention feeding the soul.”

His mind-changing, progressive French-Indian offerings are so future-forward, only adventurous and liberal diners will find his specialities acceptable.

According to Chef Yogi, “the Indian continent consists of different regions and each has its own unique flavours and ingredients. Likewise, each course in Flour’s menu is my interpretation on how Indian food has evolved whilst remaining faithful to its roots.

 

“Indian specialities are characterised by the use of spices, not chilli. You’d discover fresh narratives on the judicious and diverse use of spices here, learn about the origins of regional dishes and delve into vegetarianism which is inherent to India’s foodscape. I’m serving a taste of culture, not just food at Flour.”

Housed in a charming, white-washed bungalow in the heart of KL since 2020, Flour was initially located at Damansara Heights some seven years ago. The sleek and contemporary interior is almost monochromatic in its colour scheme, with some eye-catching artworks and a water fountain serving as key focal points.

According to the Rajasthan-born chef, “The restaurant name was inspired by flour, an essential ingredient for the making of bread. Without flour, there’d be no Indian food.”

Although Chef Yogi was roped into his father’s restaurant business in his teens, the rebel in him opted to pursue hotel management and French culinary arts. Determined to make his own mark, he relocated to Dubai and ventured into the aviation industry.

In 2014 Yogi came to Malaysia, to work for Air Asia X. He met and married his wife who then encouraged him to open Flour. “She said my culinary efforts changed her perception of Indian food and I should showcase my skills to a broader audience.”

Chef Yogi said “Flour brings the future of Indian cuisine to the present, based on my knowledge and research on the past, using modern French techniques and thoughtfully composed degustation-style menus.”

The chef will personally share interesting facts on the historical aspects and origins of the food served, with every element down to the smallest details meticulously planned. “I’m the guide on the culinary journey; to help diners gain greater understanding of Indian cuisine. Dining here is more than just an experience; it’s a taste of culture.”

From the a la carte menu, the stellar opening of smoky Quail Tikka (RM35++) left us spellbound. Spiced curd-marinated quails were tandoor-roasted to perfection, rendering the quail tender and juicy down to the bone. A side dip of housemade curd dotted with tamarind lent a lush, appetising dimension.

“Quail and game birds are native to India; in the old days, people used to forage for them as the native protein source” said Chef Yogi. “The secret lies in mustard seed oil, to give the quail deep-seated flavour and incomparable aroma.”

Unsurprisingly, his adroit skills shone through in the Vegetable Charcoal Roast (RM38++). Banking on a useful tip gleaned from the Persians, he infused rose water into the saucy base of housemade curd and bird’s eye chilli oil, letting it bring the inherent vegetal-fruitiness of the roasted baby eggplants, capsicum, and cherry tomatoes to full bloom onto our palate.

Italian Marzano tomatoes formed the backbone to Flour’s legendary Butter Chicken, listed as Spring Chicken & Tomato (RM68++) in the menu. Lightly spiced with green cardamom powder and fenugreek leaves, Chef Yogi had cooked those tomatoes to such velvety consistency, it seemed like he had unleashed a burst of brilliant sunshine onto our tastebuds, through the vermillion sauce.

Dousing that sumptuous sauce onto Jeera Rice (RM18++) then savouring the cumin-speckled rice, as we picked the bones clean off those deliciously tender chunks of spring chicken tikka, was heavenly.

How could we not lick the plate clean when the stellar dish of Konju Moilee appeared. Every exquisite bite of the charcoal-grilled prawns in mustard seed-accented coconut milk sauce and bird’s eye chilli oil knocked our socks off.

Also jostling for our attention and tummy space was Ajwaini Baingan (RM55++), cute roasted baby eggplants in a robust sauce of onion, tomato with ajwain and thyme.

 

We couldn’t help but soak up that bright, tantalising sauce with freshly made Laccha (RM15++), thin, multi-layered wholewheat bread which the chef referred to as the croissant of India.

For textural contrast, we returned to sample those irresistible dishes again with pieces of feather-light Puri (RM15++), fried wholewheat bread with semolina, with equally agreeable results.

Served with basil curd, crisp-fried shallot graced the bowl of Mutton Biryani (RM90++); a show-stopping speciality that could have easily left us replete on its own. Cubes of meltingly tender mutton embedded within the saffron-scented basmati rice, proved second-to-none in the taste department.

Wrapping up our lavish cultural passage to India came Kubhanika Meetha (RM35++), a dainty white apricot tart which the chef told us to eat in one bite. Its ephemeral sweetness was a most befitting masterstroke to conclude our insightful discovery of Indian culture through Flour’s refined repertoire.

For reservations at FLOUR, tel: 03-4065 7400, 012-9600 053. Address: No.12 & 14, Jalan Kamuning, Off Jalan Imbi, Kuala Lumpur.

 

TOSCA X GOODDAM 'FOUR HANDS' DINNER

Italian cuisine lovers are in for a treat with the upcoming ‘four hands’ dinner featuring Chef Murli Pillay (left) of Tosca at DoubleTree by Hilton KL and Chef Daniel Yap (right) of Gooddam restaurant in Petaling Jaya.

Scheduled for 14 & 15 July, the Tosca x Gooddam event will proffer a 5-course menu (RM358 nett per person) prepared by both chefs. The food and wine pairing costs RM498 nett per person.

 

Us media members had an advance preview of the event one balmy evening at Tosca. The rustic wood-stone clad setting evoked a laidback, resort-style feel although some air-conditioning won’t be remiss IMHO in the current sweltering weather.

Chilled Sanfeletto Prosecco Superior heralded a quartet of amuse bouche: Black Angus Short Rib Arancino, Oyster Beignet, Liver Mousse, and Aged Hamachi Crudo.

 

The much-anticipated Black Angus Short Rib Arancino with Sundried Tomato Aioli and Summer Truffle was a tad underwhelming. Coated with breadcrumbs, the deep-fried Italian rice ball barely had any beef in it, whilst the tomato aioli eclipsed everything in its wake.

 

Topped with a bright green, savoury sauce, the crisp-fried Oyster Beignet with Green Onion Fondue restored our faith. The mollusc’s delicate taste remained discernible and melded well with the parmesan shavings and cheesy green onion ‘fondue’.

Airy-light and exquisitely delicate accents characterised the Liver Mousse, Strawberry Vinegar Caramel, Edible Weeds and Flowers sandwiched in between wafer-thin discs. Ditto for the Aged Hamachi Crudo, Pickled Pumpkin and Spiced Passionfruit.

 

Also top marks for the crusty slices of focaccia with pesto butter.

A zesty-fresh Fantini Pinot Grigio complemented Chef Murli’s Symphony of Heirloom Tomatoes with Aged Balsamic and Goat Cheese Panna Cotta. 

We loved how the soft pudding-like goat cheese creaminess harmonised with the assortment of fruity heirloom tomatoes. Tangy-sweet aged balsamic vinegar further enhanced the dish’s allure.

Chef Daniel proved his mettle with delicious Agnolotti of Wolf Herring Mousse, Red Coral and Nasturtium Flower Butter. A type of pasta originating from Piedmont, the chef folded flattened pasta dough over toothsomely springy fish paste. Served alongside a slab of sweet and flaky wolf herring, the spicy flower butter added lush flavour to the whole ensemble.

 

Teetotallers can expect interesting mocktails such as Cucumber Gimlet and Acai Kombucha to complement their meal.

 

While the Rack of Lamb with Pickled Purple Carrot, Celeriac Purée, Mâche & Thyme Jus looked promising, my portion was unfortunately tough and sinewy. The gloppy jus didn’t help. Fortunately, my dining partner’s serving was on-point. 

 

We had a medium body Cecchi Chianti DOCG brimming with nice berry nuances which went superbly well with the lamb.

Dinner concluded on a high note with an enticing Marsala Sabayon Ice Cream, Wood-fired Fig and Fig Leaf Meringue wrapping up the evening. It was a light, mildly sweet yet slightly indulgent dessert to savour.

 

For reservations at Tosca, call tel: 03-2172 7272 or email: KULDT_FB@hilton.com