MALAY FLAVOURS LEND SHINE AT MADAM LEE

Chef de Cuisine Rizal Sobry has joined hands with Executive Chef Irwan Sutan Chairul to extend the Peranakan palette at Madam Lee Nyonya Private Dining — incorporating timeless Malay recipes with depth, fire and fragrance intact.

The introduction of Malay culinary classics feels more like a homecoming, bringing quiet comfort to the menu. Nestled amidst the grounds of Palm Garden Hotel Putrajaya, the restaurant's recessed shelves decked with Peranakan ceramics segue to a soaring high ceiling space and a grand staircase leading to an airy dining space.

Warm and welcoming, we dip and sip on Singgang Seafood Soup (RM30), a coconut milk-based broth cradling prawns, squid, clams, fish and tender vegetables. Modest in appearance but rich in spirit, the creamy and subtly tangy soup leans in with whispers of lemongrass and sweet brine of the sea.

 

Pie Tie (RM28), those crisp little top hats of jicama, mushroom, egg and prawn; Loh Bak (RM25), deep-fried beancurd sheet rolls of meat, vegetables and spices; and Otak-otak (RM25), spiced fish mousse served chilled are ubiquitous mainstays to tickle the tastebuds.

Soft and yielding smoked beef in a golden pool of turmeric and coconut milk—thick, perfumed and almost pastoral in its richness makes the Daging Salai Masak Lemak (RM48) notable. You taste the smokiness first, then the heat of chilli and spices followed by the grassy-citrusy scent of turmeric leaf. It clings to the beef, then lingers long after you’ve set your spoon down.

If that was a murmur, the Paru Sambal Cili Api (RM45) was a roar. Slightly chewy beef lung slices, swimming in a biting-hot bird’s eye chilli sambal, is not a dish for the faint-hearted. But die-hard fans will love it for its fierce honesty.

Take the edge off with Ikan Masak Kicap (RM58), trad fried red snapper doused in a bewitchingly dark sweet-savoury soy glaze. You’d delight in the mellow, gently spiced sauce; sweet at the edges—perfect to go with plain white rice.

 
More amicable options, easy on the tastebuds include golden-skinned Ayam Goreng Berempah (RM32), its spice coating adding appeal to the chook; Chap Chye (RM28), the homey mixed vegetable milieu that tastes like something your Nyonya grandmother might dish up; and a robust, deeply comforting Nyonya Fried Rice.

 
Dessert is whimsical and tropical—Sago Cha Cha with Taro Ice Cream (RM18), creamy and cool on the tongue; and rich yet sticky Pineapple Pulut Hitam Crème Brûlée (RM26), with just the right crackle of burnt sugar on top.

 

At Madam Lee, the spices may flare, the sauces may cling, but there’s always grace in the telling and old flavours bloom anew.
 
For reservations, call Madam Lee Nyonya Private Dining, tel:03-8943 2233 or visit https://www.madamleenyonya.com/
Address: Palm Garden Hotel, Putrajaya, IOI Resort City, Putrajaya

EAST MEETS WEST WITH FINESSE AT JAVA TREE, E&O HOTEL PENANG

Pineapple Prawn Curry. Salted Cod Fillet. Blackened Top Hats. Beef Wellington. Apom Bongkwa. East meets West with culinary aplomb at the new Java Tree restaurant, Eastern & Oriental (E&O) Hotel Penang, making it a notable outpost to dine in.

Named after a historical java tree planted in the hotel’s garden promenade even before the E&O Hotel was established in 1885, Java Tree sets a stately stage for the showcasing of Nyonya specialities and classic European dishes.

The iconic tree – immortalised on an expansive feature wall – draws the eye when you step into Java Tree. Accentuated with dark wood trims and sparkling chandeliers, the resto’s understated ambience is further enlivened by wall sconces, the occasional gilded columns, starched white linen-sheathed tables and earth toned upholstered chairs.

Otak Otak also available a la carte at Java Tree

An appetising trio of Blackened Top Hats (pastry shells stuffed with shredded jicama, carrot, cuttlefish and egg with salmon roe), Lobak (stuffed roll of chicken, shrimp, yam, shredded egg and salmon roe) and Otak Otak (steamed spiced local mackerel mousse with coconut cream, turmeric and kaffir lime leaves) from my Nyonya Signature Set (RM135) makes an great impression from the get-go. 

The Otak Otak deserves special mention as I find the mousse's spice quotient distinct on the palate, with subtle bursts of heat to set the tastebuds tingling. Spoonfuls of the soulful Itik Tim (pickled mustard vegetable with duck soup) summon up childhood memories of meals partaken at my grandparents’ house, a fond reminder that old is indeed gold.

More titillating temptations: Oxtail Gulai (braised oxtail, mustard seeds, vinegar and spices), Pineapple Prawn Curry (deep-sea tiger prawns with pineapple curry) and Terung Tempra (eggplant with lime, soya sauce and chilli) call for plain white rice – the best canvas to capture the dishes’ plethora of bright, piquant flavours. IMHO, the collective servings are generous enough for two light eaters.

A pretty floral shaped Sago Gula Melaka (sago pearls served with coconut milk and palm sugar syrup) brings the sumptuous meal to its sweet conclusion.

On the European Classics front, no appetiser evokes more nostalgia than Prawn Cocktail (RM30). Presented in a cocktail glass with tender romaine lettuce lining the base, Java Tree’s version has three cooked prawns in cocktail sauce (concocted from mayo, ketchup and lemon juice) perched over the rim. Mango dices and mustard sauce give the ensemble a touch of zippy sweetness.

Sweet caramelised onions makes the French Onion Soup (RM30) a siren’s song for the soul. Two gratinated gruyère toasts add depth and richness to the savoury broth, leaving us smacking our lips with satisfaction.

Poached in milk and wholegrain mustard, the signature Salted Cod Fillet (RM125) with baby spinach, poached egg and Hollandaise sauce is an on-point palate-pleaser. Although the dish sounds indulgent, any scepticism proves unfounded once you sample the fish’s lush yet delicate creaminess.

Meat lovers should sink their teeth into the scrumptious Entrecôte 10 oz Steak Café de Paris (RM80) with Baby Vegetables – my partner’s request for medium rare doneness is acquitted with aplomb. We also give thumbs up to the Butter Grilled Asparagus (RM30) with poached egg and truffled mushroom.

Other scrumptious options include Beef Wellington (RM85), Lamb Rump (RM75) and Chicken Fricasse (RM75) among others.

Remember to save stomach space for Java Tree’s seductive sweets from the dessert cart. Succumb to decadent creations of mildly tangy Lemon Tart or a sumptuous Paris-Brest – a circular shape choux pastry with praline-hazelnut crème, or the classic Crème Brûlée. Also recommended is the Apple Streusel Tart (RM28), a yummy crumble-topped treat with custardy apple worth the extra calories.

 

 

 

Currently, Java Tree is open for dine-in from 6.30pm to 10pm. For reservations, please call 016-419 8923 or click: http://bit.ly/JavaTree

CONCORDE KUALA LUMPUR AGLOW WITH MID-AUTUMN SPARKLES

Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur stays true to its game-changing form by thinking out of the box this Mid-Autumn Festival, with the introduction of its crackle glass light globes.

Meticulously handcrafted, the hotel’s exclusive 9-inch and 5-inch blown glass light globes with crackle effect and LED lights come in Sparkling Gold, Sparkling Blue and Sparkling Pink. Priced at RM138 nett per set, each 9-inch glass light globe with 4 x 180g mooncakes are sold in four different sets:

A.               Japanese Red Bean, White Pure Lotus, Pure Lotus Double Yolk & Golden Pandan Pure Lotus 

B.               Japanese Red Bean, Lotus Paste with Loh Hon Ko (new variant), Pure Lotus Single Yolk & Pandan Lotus Single Yolk

C.               Assorted Fruit Nuts, Yam Lotus with Single Yolk, Lotus Paste with Chestnut & Custard (new variant) & White Lotus Black Sesame

D.              Snowskin with Red Bean Paste, Snowskin with White Lotus, Snowskin with Pandan Lotus Single Yolk & Snowskin with Yam Lotus Paste Single Yolk

In conjunction with the Merdeka celebration, Concorde Hotel KL is offering a Merdeka Special promotion as shown:

Crowned by The Star newspaper as the best snowskin durian mooncake, Concorde’s Snowskin Musang King Durian Mooncake is also available at RM168 nett per set of 4 pcs. Customers who prefer the smaller glass light globes may buy a pair of the 5-inch glass light globes with 2 pcs of mooncakes at RM90 nett.

Alternatively, pretty lacquer jewellery boxes in red, pink, lilac and baby blue containing 6 x 90g mooncakes are available at RM148 nett. Flavours include Japanese Red Bean, Pure Lotus, Golden Pandan Pure Lotus, Yam Lotus Paste with Yolk, Chocolate Peppermint Paste and White Pure Lotus.

 

 

Sales are in full swing at Hotel Lobby from 10.30am-8pm daily until 13 September. A separate kiosk at Ground Floor, South Court of Mid Valley Megamall is opened daily from 10.30am-10pm.

SPECIAL MENU BY CHEF RICKY WONG

On your next visit to Xin Cuisine, remember to sample the specialities of new Chinese Chef Ricky Wong. With three decades of experience under his toque, Wong interprets familiar dishes using his own expertise and inimitable touch.

The Sweet & Sour Pork in Ice Bowl (RM40-small, RM60-medium, RM80-big) proves a winsome appetite-whetter; every mouthful an enticing balance of fatty and lean meat generously coated in a palate-pleasing caramelised sweet-sour sauce. A dusting of parmesan crumble gives the dish a savoury finish.

 

While most Chinese chefs prefer to stick to the tried and tested when it comes to steamed fish, Wong surprises us with his bold employment of a bright, assertive rempah blend for the Steamed Soon Hock with Nyonya Sauce (RM30 per 100g). Fortunately, the fish’s natural sweetness remains discernible despite the blanket of zingy turmeric-galangal-chilli sauce on top.

 

Blended spinach lends extra nutrition to the chef’s Spinach Beancurd with Special Sauce (RM35-small, RM50-medium, RM70-big). Topped with white Japanese mushroom, the delicate morsels pose a nice contrast to the heartier offerings. The notable dried scallop and oyster sauce deserves special mention.

 

Bentong ginger piques our interest, adding warmth and textural depth to the speciality of Baked Spare Ribs with Crispy Sliced Ginger (RM40-small, RM60-medium, RM80-big). Lightly battered, the ginger slices not only amp up the dish’s appeal but also counter the meaty richness and the slightly cloying sauce.

Although not new to us, the Stir-fried Hong Kong Kai Lan Two Styles (RM35-small, RM50-medium, RM70-big) is a welcome relief from the porky overload. The greens’ crispy floss and crunchy stalks make enjoyable mouthfuls from the usual blanched vegetables.

 

Nam yue (red fermented beancurd) plays a central role in enhancing the overall taste of the Braised Pork Belly with Fermented Beancurd Sauce (RM58). The resultant slab of gelatinous yet tender pork doesn’t bear ample testament to the arduous, multiple preparatory processes: searing, steaming, marinating and braising involved.

Remember to sample these new chef’s specialities when you next lunch or dine at Xin Cuisine.

For reservations at Xin Cuisine, call tel: 03-2717 2233. Address: Lobby Level, Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur.