MAN OF FOUR SEASONS IN KUALA LUMPUR

Simon Barnett’s career in hospitality began at the ground level—quite literally. He started out parking cars and working as a bellman, long before stepping into the polished shoes of a hotel general manager.

Now helming the prestigious Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur, Barnett brings with him over three decades of hands-on industry experience. Despite his impressive résumé, the Sydneysider remains refreshingly grounded.

“I was drawn to hospitality because I love meeting people,” he recalls with smile. "Back then, the idea I actually got rewarded for doing a good job was incredibly appealing."

With his parents working overseas, Barnett pursued his university studies in Brisbane, where his sister was living at the time. His first hotel job was in the front office of a five-star Brisbane property where he quickly discovered a passion for the fast-paced world of luxury hospitality.

As he climbed the ranks, Barnett expanded his expertise across various departments before finding his niche in sales. His journey took him from Australia’s Gold Coast to the global cities of London and New York, strengthening his knowledge of international hotel operations.

In 2011, he joined Four Seasons Hotel Sydney as Director of Catering and Conference Services. His strong business acumen and people-first mindset saw him rise swiftly, first to Director of Marketing, and later to Hotel Manager. His dual role in Singapore—as both Hotel Manager and Director of Marketing—further sharpened his leadership skills.

Barnett’s first General Manager role was in Jakarta where he played a pivotal role in stabilising and relaunching the property post-pandemic. Before moving to Kuala Lumpur, he spearheaded the award-winning Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok.

Thanks to his astute operations and sales and marketing background, Barnett has a natural affinity for connecting with team members across the board. 

“I used to be really focused on climbing the ladder,” he reflects, “but now, I try to be more intentional about the relationships I build. Hospitality is a 24/7 industry, so creating the right structure to support our people is fundamental to ensuring our guests always have a great experience.”

Barnett is particularly passionate about nurturing young talent. “What I love about this industry is that you can come in at any level and still go far, as long as you’re committed. That kind of opportunity is very powerful—and I think it resonates with the younger generation.”

Work-life balance is another area he takes seriously. “It’s not just about taking time off—it’s about being present when you do,” he says. “There’s no point going on holiday if you’re glued to your phone the whole time. That’s why I always ask my team what they did on their days off. I want to encourage them to enjoy that time and be present for their loved ones.”

A sports enthusiast at heart, Barnett unwinds by watching the Australian Football League matches, rowing, playing rugby, and hitting the gym. Although he’s just moved to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia isn’t new to him.

“When I was based in Jakarta, I’d come here several times for vacations. I love the culture, the people, the food—it’s such a dynamic place,” he says, expressing his desire to explore more of the country, especially Penang and East Malaysia. His aim? To gather firsthand experiences to share with Four Seasons guests looking for something beyond the ordinary.

A strong believer in open communication, Barnett makes it a point to create safe spaces for his team to speak up. “I spend an hour each month with every department so they can share what’s on their mind. I even walk them to my office and tell them, ‘My door’s always open’ but no one has taken up my offer yet,” he laughs. “I want them to know the offer stands.”

And what’s his guiding philosophy?

“Don’t take things too seriously,” he quips. “We have high standards and as we strive to meet them, we should still find moments to laugh, to have fun, and to make the workplace an enjoyable one."

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A FEAST FOR THE SENSES AT ELEGANT INN

Attention to the tiniest details is restaurateur Jeannette Han's maxim. Still going strong after 15 years at Menara Hap Seng, the understated Elegant Inn Hong Kong Cuisine restaurant remains a firm favourite among discerning Chinese food lovers in the city.

Executive Chef Wesley Ng who cut his teeth in the restaurant scene at the tender age of 19, joined Elegant Inn (E.I.) in 2002. Previously attached to an established Chinese restaurant in Klang, the chef has helmed the E.I. team since then.

A lunch invitation from Jeannette to sample some of E.I.’s crowd-pleasers and signature dishes turned into a languorous and indulgent affair.

Right off the bat, we were spoiled with E.I.’s Happy Start platter comprising Salt & Pepper Hong Kong Silver Fish & Cuttlefish (RM32.80 – Silver Fish, Cuttlefish – RM39.80), Steamed Silky Egg with Pan-seared Hokkaido Scallops & Crab Roe Sauce, and Special Chilled Spoon Delight with Fresh Salmon and Crabmeat.

The steamed egg topped with creamy crab roe was sensuously smooth. Its deliciousness was rivalled by the scrumptious servings of raw salmon strips and crabmeat atop silky noodles; our palate tingled from the appetiser’s tantalising lime dressing.

We also relished the light-as-air batter-coated silver fish and cuttlefish, flecked with salt and pepper. A fine sprinkling of fried and raw garlic bestowed fleeting bursts of sweet and sharp accents as we munched our way through the delectable morsels.

Nothing warms the soul like a hearty tureen of Traditional Double Boiled Soup of Pig Stomach, Peppercorn and Salted Vegetable (RM148.80). Aside from a whole pig’s stomach, salted vegetables and Sarawakian white peppercorns, the salubrious broth suffused our palate with a cacophony of sublime flavours thanks to the bountiful ingredients in it: chicken feet for a touch of viscousness, Yunnan ham for that umami nuance, and free-range kampung chicken and pork ribs for delicate sweetness.

According to Han, the soup should taste clear and sweet on the palate, with a perceptible peppery finish coming through. Kudos to the E.I. team for ensuring it was on-point.

We also sampled several Dim Sum items: Crispy Vegetable Rice Rolls (RM5.20 per pc, min 4 pcs), Steamed Hokkaido Scallop Dumplings (RM) and Steamed Radish Cake with Hong Kong Prawn and Tung Choi (preserved vegetable).

As expected, the dumplings went down a treat; the scallop-prawn filling’s fresh sweetness raveworthy. E.I. also levelled up the Hong Kong-style ‘jar leong’ – flat rice rolls with fried Chinese crullers – by stuffing its silky rice rolls with crispy Vietnamese rice paper, shredded carrot and jicama for better textural interest.

Served with a mildly sweet-salty soy sauce, the rice rolls were a joy to eat. The intermingling textures complemented by the house concocted sauce transformed it into a memorable speciality.

Instead of the tried-and-tested pan-fried radish cake, E.I. steamed theirs. Each mouthful yielded fine radish strips amidst the tender pieces, accentuated with the complex flavours of caramelised Hong Kong dried prawns and preserved vegetable (specially sourced ingredients lugged back by Jeannette from Hong Kong).

After that came a surfeit of fish dishes: Steamed Sea Garoupa Slices on Rice Noodles with Fresh Lemon & Chinese Black Olives (seasonal price), Steamed Atlantic Cod with Fiery Garlic Black Bean Sauce (RM44.80 per 100 g), Golden Fried Atlantic Cod with Chinese Leek Topping (RM44.80 per 100 g) and Ichiyaboshi Threadfin to float our boat.

Suffice to say each fish dish had something distinct going for it. The refreshing lemon tanginess coupled with Chinese black olives gave the superbly fresh and sweet garoupa extra allure; the fish jus soaked up by the ribbons of flat rice noodles so each mouthful was heavenly to savour.

We also fell hook, line and sinker for the smooth and rich cod enhanced with fiery garlic-black bean sauce. Strands of glass noodles were included, to absorb the sweet jus for maximum enjoyment.

The fried version was no less stellar; the fish’s natural richness enlivened by sautéed Chinese leeks, chilli, garlic and light soy sauce.

Our interest was piqued by the ichiya-boshi (literally meaning overnight-dried) method of preparing the threadfin. This preservation technique is also popular in Korea as bountiful catches such as pollack are gutted, butterflied (cut lengthwise and split at the belly), then dipped in sea water before being set out to dry to extend their shelf life and concentrate their flavour. In modern kitchens and eateries, the fish is more likely to be doused with salty solution before it’s laid out to dry in front of fans or a well-ventilated space.

The threadfin we tried was moist and slightly briny. It was a novel experience, sampling the fish accompanied by rolled slices of asam boi-pickled celtuce (asparagus lettuce) and housemade chilli dip.

Reminiscent of a classic Chinese banquet dish, the Golden Boneless Stuffed Chicken with Chicken Tomato Salad (RM113.80 half chicken, RM226.80 whole chicken) proved to be an all-round winner. Who could resist crunching into crackle-crisp chicken skin layered with toothsomely QQ prawn paste?

The chicken meat, shredded and piled atop tomato wedges drizzled with balsamic vinegar, acted as the perfect counterpoint. An outstanding dish guaranteed to delight both young and old.

To cleanse our palate and alleviate all the indulgent food we had partaken, the Signature Fried Bitter Melon with Salted Vegetables (RM36.80) was more than welcome to tickle the tastebuds; the astringent bitter melon contrasting nicely with the salted vegetable’s subtle brininess.

Moreish and soul-satisfying, we couldn’t pass up the chance to partake the Signature Fried Rice (RM43.80). Full of wok hei (that wonderful smokiness only a ultra-hot wok and a skillful chef can produce), every grain vanished in the blink of an eye.

Somehow, we managed to find tummy room for the scrumptious Rice Noodles with Australian M9 Wagyu Beef in Egg Sauce (RM188). The supremely tender beef combined with the noodles in rich eggy sauce garnered praises all round.

Jeannette splurged on four desserts to wrap up our gathering: Golden Custard Cake (RM5 per pc, min 4 pcs), House Made Jujube Cake with Grated Coconut, Teochew Style Tau Suan with Crunchy Sea Cucumber and Double Boiled Hasma In Fresh Almond Cream.

The irresistible offerings are featured in Elegant Inn’s Parents’ Day celebratory menus priced at RM248 per person (min.2 persons) and RM968 for 4 persons and RM1,368 for 6 persons.

Interestingly, the unusual inclusion of sea cucumber caught our fancy in the old-school Teochew tau suan (sweet broth of mung beans). Following our host’s instructions to stir in the sea cucumber pieces but refrain from letting them soak too long in the dessert broth, we found the distinctive taste likeable.

Both the golden custard cake and jujube cake also hit the spot with their enticing softness and discrete sweetness. I was partial to the almond cream with hasma – a timeless choice one cannot go wrong with nor fault.

For reservations at Elegant Inn HK Cuisine, call tel: 03-2070 9399. Address: 2.01, 2nd Floor, Podium Block, Menara Hap Seng, Jalan P. Ramlee, Kuala Lumpur.