NEW CHEF’S SPECIALITIES WITH PLAYFUL FLAIR AT YUN HOUSE

 
Familiar yet fresh. Inventive yet timeless. Chef Jimmy Wong and his Yun House team have rendered fresh Hong Kong-style twists to some classic recipes, resulting in visually striking and tastefully exquisite dishes with playful spins to captivate guests.

Presented on a chic canvas of modern tableware, we readily succumbed to Crispy Rice Vermicelli with Foie Gras and Oyster. How could we fault the artful melding of shatter-crisp texture with luxuriantly rich foie gras and the mollusk's plump suppleness?

Instead of the usual square deep-fried toast, we nibbled on lightly breaded, ball-shaped Prawn Toast with Caviar. Tiny pops of brininess from the lustrous caviar pearls heightened our enjoyment of the springy prawn stuffing and crispy toast.

Likewise, we enthused over the slick black vinegar sauce which exuded mellow, well-rounded tanginess, a nice masterstroke to complement the Mini Beef Steak, tempering its meaty richness.

The spongy-softness of fish maw segued to the delicacy of bamboo charcoal skin when we bit into the Fish Maw Dumpling with Cordycep Flower and Black Garlic. Umami hints from the cordycep flowers merged with earthy complexity of black garlic on our palate the more we chewed.

Diminutive dices of barbecued duck lent an unexpectedly delicious twist to the filling for the red topped, wispy Deep-fried Yam Puff with Roasted Barbecued Duck. The faintly savoury-sweet taste of nam yue (fermented red beancurd) was discernible when we devoured the yam puff.

Primed up with a whole deep-fried Alaskan Crab Meat Wonton, we lapped up every drop of the stimulating Hot and Sour Soup with Sea Scallops and Tofu. Hats off to the chef for employing the scrumptious dumpling and scallops to level up the crowd-pleasing broth.

Equally stellar was Steamed Black Cod with Chopped Chilli. We were reeled in by the fish's natural sweetness and satiny smooth texture, touched with an aromatic superior soy sauce dressing.

Soul-satisfying Braised Hong Kong Ee-Fu Noodles with Wild Mushrooms and Truffle Paste left us replete. Nuanced with lush woodsy and musky accents, we slurped up every salubrious strand.

Miraculously our close to bursting tummies found room to fit in the luscious Yin Yang Black Sesame Ice Cream with Chilled Almond Milk. Redolent with the distinct nuttiness of both ingredients, the luscious dessert proved too irresistible especially since I'm partial to almond milk.

Suffice to say, the selection of new chef’s specialities are befittingly worthy of the Michelin selected restaurant.

To reserve a table at Yun House, contact tel: 03 2382 8602 or email: diningreservations.kualalumpur@fourseasons.com.
 

NEW MENU ITEMS YOU'D LOVE AT AN VIET

 

Bánh Khọt (RM14.90), scrumptious Vietnamese mini savoury coconut pancakes laden with minced pork, chopped shrimps, mung beans and sautéed spring onions transported us to Vietnam briefly.

The serving of moreish pancakes was one of the new items launched by An Viet recently. Slightly crisp on the outer edges segueing into spongier texture towards the centre, we savoured them wrapped in fresh lettuce and herbs. Nuoc cham (Vietnamese dipping sauce) with pickled radish and carrot strips boosted the overall taste.

We also sampled several other new dishes at the latest outlet at Pavilion Bukit Jalil recently. The show-stealer was Crispy Rice Noodle Pillows with Sautéed Pork/Beef (a la carte: RM22.90 pork/RM23.90 beef; set RM27.90 pork/RM28.90 beef).

According to restaurateur Caren Poon, the dish is a tricky one to prepare. “The flat rice noodles needs to be of a certain thickness so that they can be layered, cut into squares then deep-fried to puff them up. If the noodles are too thick, the resultant ‘pillows’ will be hard. It cannot be too thin either as they may break during the frying process.”

Taste-wise, the noodle ‘pillows’ combined with the stir-fried greens and sliced beef/pork bore some similarities with Cantonese fried noodles. We like the cohesive textures and enticing smoky aroma emanating from the dish.

Besides the prawn version, An Viet now features Gỏi Cuốn (RM10.90), fresh spring rolls with grilled pork belly in addition to fillings of rice vermicelli, fresh lettuce, radish and carrot julienne and basil.

Dunked into sweet-savoury-tangy nuoc cham, the gamut of harmonious flavours and disparate yet complementary textures scored well with us.  
 

Evoking the comforting warmth of hearth and home, we couldn’t resist sampling the soulful Stewed Chestnut Pork Belly (RM24.90 with rice; RM29.90 set). Think tau ew bak (braised pork in soy sauce) Vietnamese-style, albeit shades lighter due to a mixture of coconut water, soy sauce, fish sauce, and brown sugar used to braise the pork.

Succulent black mushrooms and powdery-soft chestnuts dialled up the speciality’s appeal. We slurped up the rich, flavourful gravy to the last drop.

For our quota of greens, we opted for Gong Cai Crunchy “Sound Vegetable” Salad with Tiger Prawns (RM18.90). Black sesame seed-flecked crackers and toasted peanuts played key supporting roles, tastefully backing up a trio of sautéed sliced celtuce, carrot julienne and poached tiger prawns.

The entire delicious medley not only proved on-song but also rendered delightful ‘sound bites’ to the ears.

No visit to An Viet is complete without pho. The newly included Sautéed Beef Noodle Soup (a la carte RM24.90, set RM29.90) was the satisfying solution; a splendid pairing of silky smooth noodles with gently sautéed beef slices.

Chè Ba Màu (RM8.90), Vietnamese 3 Colour Dessert capped off our culinary sojourn. Similar to ice kacang, this refreshing shaved ice treat atop soft red and mung beans, pandan-green jelly strips, and lightly sweetened coconut milk was the perfect ending to our marvellous Vietnamese dining experience.

 
For more information and reservations at An Viet, visit: https://www.facebook.com/anviet.my
 

BOWLED OVER BY NOODLES AND SHANGHAI DIM SUM AT DORSETT GRAND SUBANG

Five Flavours Shanghai Dumplings (RM25 nett) was the headline offering to tease our tastebuds at the newly launched Impressively Shanghai promotion at The Emperor.

Served daily for lunch (12noon – 2.30pm), we feasted on six new Shanghainese dim sum created by Dim Sum Master Chef Chan Chee Loong.

Naturally coloured with beetroot (red), spinach (green), carrot (yellow) and butterfly pea flower (blue), the soup-filled chicken meat dumplings were delicious. Vinegar and shredded ginger dip is served on the side, to dial up the taste appeal.

We also enjoyed soul-satisfying Rice Rolls with Yam Bean and Dried Shrimps (RM13 nett). A fresh take on chee cheong fun albeit the flat rice rolls are broader and stuffed with scrumptious shredded yam bean (sengkuang) and dried shrimps. Simplicity at its best.

Drawn from an age-old recipe, Shanghai Traditional Glutinous Rice with Chicken Meat (RM15 nett) dumplings won us over with its clear, delicate nuances and pleasant grainy chewy texture.

Crispy with sweet oniony flavour, the Housemade Scallion Pancake (RM13 nett) proved on-point too. The wedges proved addictive as we found ourselves reaching for second and third helpings.

A nice departure from the usual steamed buns, we gave thumbs up to Pan-fried Shanghai Chicken Buns (RM16 nett) and Pan-fried Shanghai Dumplings (RM16 nett). The irresistible savoury filling and varied textures made fans out of us.

 
Always up for something spicy, the crowd-pleasing Prawn Dumplings with Chilli Oil (Rm18 nett) managed to hit the spot. Chilli fiends will enjoy the zingy heat contrasting against the scrumptious dumplings.

Noodle fans will find tangles of endearment from The Emperor’s hefty servings of Big Bowl Noodles. Available now until 31 August for lunch and dinner, the big bowls of thick or thin noodles come in three different permutations. Each big bowl can serve 2-3 persons.

Much to my surprise, I was besotted with the Deep-fried Giant Grouper with Special Vermicelli in Salted Vegetable Soup (RM128 nett per order). A riff on the currently popular suan chai yue – the regional Chinese dish of sour vegetable with fish, we eagerly slurped up every strand, morsel and drop in our bowls.

Surrounded by blanched bok choy, the tangy-sour broth stimulated our salivary glands into overdrive; teasing us with sweet slices of giant grouper, strands of salted vegetable amidst toothsome vermicelli noodles.

Turning up the luxe factor was Slipper Lobster and Seaweed with Shanghai Noodles in Superior Soup (RM148 nett per order). The umami-packed broth melded well with the sweetness of slipper lobster whilst straw mushrooms lent textural variation.

The viral ‘flying noodles’ also made an appearance here much to our delight. Both young and old alike should relish digging into the crispy noodles immersed in an eggy sauce. Pin-drop silence ensued when we were busy gobbling down the Flying Noodles with Deep-fried Fresh Water Prawns and Crab Meat in Egg White Sauce (RM188 nett per order). Proof it was an all-round winner in terms of presentation and taste.

For reservations and booking, contact The Emperor Restaurant, Dorsett Grand Subang, tel: 03-5031 6060 ext. 1954 or email:bookfnb.subang@dorsetthotels.com