NEW CHEF’S SPECIALITIES WITH PLAYFUL FLAIR AT YUN HOUSE

 
Familiar yet fresh. Inventive yet timeless. Chef Jimmy Wong and his Yun House team have rendered fresh Hong Kong-style twists to some classic recipes, resulting in visually striking and tastefully exquisite dishes with playful spins to captivate guests.

Presented on a chic canvas of modern tableware, we readily succumbed to Crispy Rice Vermicelli with Foie Gras and Oyster. How could we fault the artful melding of shatter-crisp texture with luxuriantly rich foie gras and the mollusk's plump suppleness?

Instead of the usual square deep-fried toast, we nibbled on lightly breaded, ball-shaped Prawn Toast with Caviar. Tiny pops of brininess from the lustrous caviar pearls heightened our enjoyment of the springy prawn stuffing and crispy toast.

Likewise, we enthused over the slick black vinegar sauce which exuded mellow, well-rounded tanginess; a nice masterstroke to complement the Mini Beef Steak, tempering its meaty richness.

The spongy-softness of fish maw segued to the delicacy of bamboo charcoal skin when we bit into the Fish Maw Dumpling with Cordycep Flower and Black Garlic. Umami accent from cordycep flowers merged with earthy complexity of black garlic on our palate the more we chewed.

Diminutive dices of barbecued duck lent an unexpectedly delicious twist to the filling for the red topped, wispy Deep-fried Yam Puff with Roasted Barbecued Duck. The faintly savoury-sweet taste of nam yue (fermented red beancurd) was discernible when we devoured the yam puff.

Primed up with a whole deep-fried Alaskan Crab Meat Wonton, we lapped up every drop of the stimulating Hot and Sour Soup with Sea Scallops and Tofu. Hats off to the chef for employing the scrumptious dumpling and scallops to level up the crowd-pleasing broth.

Equally stellar was Steamed Black Cod with Chopped Chilli. We were reeled in by the fish's natural sweetness and satiny smooth texture, touched with an aromatic superior soy sauce dressing.

Soul-satisfying Braised Hong Kong Ee-Fu Noodles with Wild Mushrooms and Truffle Paste left us replete. Nuanced with lush woodsy and musky accents, we slurped up every salubrious strand.

Miraculously, our close to bursting tummies found room to fit in the luscious Yin Yang Black Sesame Ice Cream with Chilled Almond Milk. Redolent with the distinct nuttiness of both ingredients, the alluring dessert proved too irresistible especially since I'm partial to almond milk.

Suffice to say, the selection of new chef’s specialities are befittingly worthy of the Michelin selected restaurant.

To reserve a table at Yun House, contact tel: 03 2382 8602 or email: diningreservations.kualalumpur@fourseasons.com.
 

THE ORIENTAL GROUP'S 25TH ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL MENU

A special 8-course celebratory menu to mark The Oriental Group of Restaurants 25^th Anniversary takes centrestage this year. Curated by the Group’s veteran master chefs featuring best-selling dishes and some ‘off menu’ items, the milestone menu showcases clean tasting yet well-balanced and intensely flavoured Cantonese cuisine. The different culinary sections are also represented, allowing each chef to demonstrate their skills and prowess.

Headed by Executive Chef Wong Ching Leong of Noble House, the other team members include Dim Sum Chef Mak Tin Woi of Oriental Pavilion, Chef Choong Yaw Loong and Sous Chef Yam Yoon Loy of Noble Mansion and BBQ Chef Wai Kok Cheng of Oriental Treasure. Collectively they had 88 years of service and more than 150 years of kitchen experience.

Priced at RM3,888 per table of 10 persons, the 8-course menu opened with a festive curtain-raiser of Soft Shell Crab and Crispy Enoki Mushroom Fruit and Vege Salad. Reminiscent of yee sang, the assorted vegetable and fruit julienne tossed with roasted sesame and wasabi mayo dressing paved the way for more of the chefs’ culinary arsenal.

Using bird’s nest for creating dessert is normal but to incorporate the pricey ingredient into a savoury dish makes it distinctive. The clear, delicately flavoured broth of the Double Boiled Superior Bird’s Nest Stuffed in Chicken alone was superb. Bamboo pith and ginkgo lent textural interest whilst dried scallops accentuated the soup with a touch of umami.

Crisp meets supple-soft texture in the show-stopping Deluxe Roast Suckling Pig Platter. 

Chef Wai’s BBQ expertise shines through the shiny, crackling skin which is placed on top of meltingly tender Iberico pork slice wrapped around goose liver sausage and spring onion. Slicked with char siew sauce, the delectable morsel was paired with soft mantou to complete the sublime speciality.

For the Braised Whole 5 head Abalone with Dried Seafood in Whole Lotus Root, we were told the huge lotus root was sourced from Hebei. Hollowed out at the centre, the lotus root is then braised for 4-5 hours and soaked overnight. Steamed until cooked, it’s filled with the braised abalones, dried scallops and black mushrooms.

We love the dish’s lip-sticking sauce, redolent with umami-rich taste of the filling which had thoroughly seeped into the soft yet gently tender lotus root. The abalones’ toothsome chewiness stood out in pleasing contrast.

The dim sum element was represented by a dainty Taro Pear with Kurobuta Pork. It was agreeable although more of that delish pork filling would proffer better mouthfeel.

Anniversary celebration inevitably means noodles to denote longevity and Braised Ramen with King Prawn marked the occasion. The slippery smooth ramen played a coy supporting role, allowing the fresh sweetness of king prawn to shine. Personally, I reckon springier sang meen works better for this dish but the chefs call the shot...

 

I went nuts over the lightly sweetened Almond Cream with Egg White. A classic dessert blending Chinese sweet and bitter almonds (nam hung, pak hung) or apricot kernels, some diners may find the natural nutty-floral scent offensive but I like it. Suffice to say I lapped up every drop and my partner’s portion too.

Between the Jade Corn Dessert and Green Tea Mochi, the latter fared better. The red bean-studded green tea cream filling was a nice surprise as we bit into the thin chewy skin. I didn’t care much for the former – it was too insipid for such a grand occasion.

The Grand Dinner dates from 8 to 28 August 2024 will be held at different restaurants under The Oriental Group. However, the special a la carte and set menus will be available until end September for diners who couldn’t make it to the Grand Dinners.

For more information and reservations, contact The Oriental Group, visit: https://www.orientalrestaurants.com.my/
 

BOWLED OVER BY NOODLES AND SHANGHAI DIM SUM AT DORSETT GRAND SUBANG

Five Flavours Shanghai Dumplings (RM25 nett) was the headline offering to tease our tastebuds at the newly launched Impressively Shanghai promotion at The Emperor.

Served daily for lunch (12noon – 2.30pm), we feasted on six new Shanghainese dim sum created by Dim Sum Master Chef Chan Chee Loong.

Naturally coloured with beetroot (red), spinach (green), carrot (yellow) and butterfly pea flower (blue), the soup-filled chicken meat dumplings were delicious. Vinegar and shredded ginger dip is served on the side, to dial up the taste appeal.

We also enjoyed soul-satisfying Rice Rolls with Yam Bean and Dried Shrimps (RM13 nett). A fresh take on chee cheong fun albeit the flat rice rolls are broader and stuffed with scrumptious shredded yam bean (sengkuang) and dried shrimps. Simplicity at its best.

Drawn from an age-old recipe, Shanghai Traditional Glutinous Rice with Chicken Meat (RM15 nett) dumplings won us over with its clear, delicate nuances and pleasant grainy chewy texture.

Crispy with sweet oniony flavour, the Housemade Scallion Pancake (RM13 nett) proved on-point too. The wedges proved addictive as we found ourselves reaching for second and third helpings.

A nice departure from the usual steamed buns, we gave thumbs up to Pan-fried Shanghai Chicken Buns (RM16 nett) and Pan-fried Shanghai Dumplings (RM16 nett). The irresistible savoury filling and varied textures made fans out of us.

 
Always up for something spicy, the crowd-pleasing Prawn Dumplings with Chilli Oil (Rm18 nett) managed to hit the spot. Chilli fiends will enjoy the zingy heat contrasting against the scrumptious dumplings.

Noodle fans will find tangles of endearment from The Emperor’s hefty servings of Big Bowl Noodles. Available now until 31 August for lunch and dinner, the big bowls of thick or thin noodles come in three different permutations. Each big bowl can serve 2-3 persons.

Much to my surprise, I was besotted with the Deep-fried Giant Grouper with Special Vermicelli in Salted Vegetable Soup (RM128 nett per order). A riff on the currently popular suan chai yue – the regional Chinese dish of sour vegetable with fish, we eagerly slurped up every strand, morsel and drop in our bowls.

Surrounded by blanched bok choy, the tangy-sour broth stimulated our salivary glands into overdrive; teasing us with sweet slices of giant grouper, strands of salted vegetable amidst toothsome vermicelli noodles.

Turning up the luxe factor was Slipper Lobster and Seaweed with Shanghai Noodles in Superior Soup (RM148 nett per order). The umami-packed broth melded well with the sweetness of slipper lobster whilst straw mushrooms lent textural variation.

The viral ‘flying noodles’ also made an appearance here much to our delight. Both young and old alike should relish digging into the crispy noodles immersed in an eggy sauce. Pin-drop silence ensued when we were busy gobbling down the Flying Noodles with Deep-fried Fresh Water Prawns and Crab Meat in Egg White Sauce (RM188 nett per order). Proof it was an all-round winner in terms of presentation and taste.

For reservations and booking, contact The Emperor Restaurant, Dorsett Grand Subang, tel: 03-5031 6060 ext. 1954 or email:bookfnb.subang@dorsetthotels.com