CREATIVITY RULES AT NEWLY REFRESHED TOH YUEN

Familiar yet fresh sums up the newly renovated Toh Yuen restaurant. Modern elegance with contemporary touches blends artfully with traditional accents of red and understated decorative elements to create a serene, sophisticated dining space.

 

With a seating capacity of 150 and four private dining rooms, Toh Yuen is ideal for casual and special outings.

Among the culinary gems awaiting diners is Roasted Peking Silver Hill London Duck (RM168 nett for half duck, RM268 nett whole duck). The Wagyu of ducks are meticulously roasted using a customised oven then carved tableside. Wrapped in delicate pancakes, the meltingly tender duck is accompanied by fresh cucumber strips, spring onions, and rich hoisin sauce; a delectable treat you’re unlikely to forget.

The remaining duck meat is then transformed into delicious Braised Shredded Duck with Ee Fu Noodle. Truffle oil adds a luxe touch to the silky noodles. Crisp cornets stuffed with duck meat and other dishes are available from the restaurant too.

For an overview of its dim sum repertoire, Toh Yuen offers a Dim Sum Lunch Set at RM99 nett per person. The culinary team puts a lot of efforts into creating exquisite morsels such as the goldfish-shape Steamed Cod Dumpling with Chicken Broth (so good I was tempted to lick the plate clean), Steamed Siew Mai with Hokkaido Scallop (an on-point showcase of bouncy-tender textures), and delicate Steamed Spinach Dumpling with Shrimp and Wolfberries (love the translucent skin yielding to a clean vegetal nuance touched with the fleeting sweetness of shrimp and wolfberries).

One of the show-stealers to gain two thumbs up is Baked Chicken Tart with Abalone. The flaky pastry encasing a mildly sweet-savoury chicken filling topped with mini abalone is memorable for its resemblance to char siu sou.

Even the soup course is levelled up with a mini pumpkin filled with Braised Crab Meat Broth with Scallop and Asparagus. Delicate flavours aplenty, with subtle crunch of the asparagus and supple-soft diced scallop bestowing textural interest.

Should you decide to go à la carte, we highly recommend sampling Toh Yuen’s signature offerings. Notable specialities such as Sweet and Sour Diced Chicken with Figs stood out for its enticing sauce and palate-pleasing fried chicken pieces paired with fresh sweet figs, and the supremely tender Stir-Fried Wagyu Beef with Porcini Mushrooms and Trio of Peppercorn.

Sweet with on-point doneness, the Steamed Pomfret with Pickled Red Chillies and Minced Ginger is divine. Kudos to the chef for the tantalising combination of robustly flavoured toppings.

The springy Golden Butter Prawns with Cashew Nuts appears par for the course. I’d wish the chef has given this offering a little twist, just to set it apart from the competition.  

It’s nice to conclude on a high with a distinct Egg Custard Pastry (deliciously flaky and custard-soft filling win every time). Even the Chilled Mango Puree with Sago and Pomelo finds favour with its just-nice sweetness.

Open daily from 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 6.30 pm to 10 pm, reservations at Toh Yuen are highly recommended. 

To book a table or more information, contact Toh Yuen, Hilton Petaling Jaya at tel: 03 7955 9122 or WhatsApp 016 216 0414, or email PETHI_FB@hilton.com, or visit eatdrinkhilton.com.

NEW CHEF’S SPECIALITIES WITH PLAYFUL FLAIR AT YUN HOUSE

 
Familiar yet fresh. Inventive yet timeless. Chef Jimmy Wong and his Yun House team have rendered fresh Hong Kong-style twists to some classic recipes, resulting in visually striking and tastefully exquisite dishes with playful spins to captivate guests.

Presented on a chic canvas of modern tableware, we readily succumbed to Crispy Rice Vermicelli with Foie Gras and Oyster. How could we fault the artful melding of shatter-crisp texture with luxuriantly rich foie gras and the mollusk's plump suppleness?

Instead of the usual square deep-fried toast, we nibbled on lightly breaded, ball-shaped Prawn Toast with Caviar. Tiny pops of brininess from the lustrous caviar pearls heightened our enjoyment of the springy prawn stuffing and crispy toast.

Likewise, we enthused over the slick black vinegar sauce which exuded mellow, well-rounded tanginess; a nice masterstroke to complement the Mini Beef Steak, tempering its meaty richness.

The spongy-softness of fish maw segued to the delicacy of bamboo charcoal skin when we bit into the Fish Maw Dumpling with Cordycep Flower and Black Garlic. Umami accent from cordycep flowers merged with earthy complexity of black garlic on our palate the more we chewed.

Diminutive dices of barbecued duck lent an unexpectedly delicious twist to the filling for the red topped, wispy Deep-fried Yam Puff with Roasted Barbecued Duck. The faintly savoury-sweet taste of nam yue (fermented red beancurd) was discernible when we devoured the yam puff.

Primed up with a whole deep-fried Alaskan Crab Meat Wonton, we lapped up every drop of the stimulating Hot and Sour Soup with Sea Scallops and Tofu. Hats off to the chef for employing the scrumptious dumpling and scallops to level up the crowd-pleasing broth.

Equally stellar was Steamed Black Cod with Chopped Chilli. We were reeled in by the fish's natural sweetness and satiny smooth texture, touched with an aromatic superior soy sauce dressing.

Soul-satisfying Braised Hong Kong Ee-Fu Noodles with Wild Mushrooms and Truffle Paste left us replete. Nuanced with lush woodsy and musky accents, we slurped up every salubrious strand.

Miraculously, our close to bursting tummies found room to fit in the luscious Yin Yang Black Sesame Ice Cream with Chilled Almond Milk. Redolent with the distinct nuttiness of both ingredients, the alluring dessert proved too irresistible especially since I'm partial to almond milk.

Suffice to say, the selection of new chef’s specialities are befittingly worthy of the Michelin selected restaurant.

To reserve a table at Yun House, contact tel: 03 2382 8602 or email: diningreservations.kualalumpur@fourseasons.com.
 

THE ORIENTAL GROUP'S 25TH ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL MENU

A special 8-course celebratory menu to mark The Oriental Group of Restaurants 25^th Anniversary takes centrestage this year. Curated by the Group’s veteran master chefs featuring best-selling dishes and some ‘off menu’ items, the milestone menu showcases clean tasting yet well-balanced and intensely flavoured Cantonese cuisine. The different culinary sections are also represented, allowing each chef to demonstrate their skills and prowess.

Headed by Executive Chef Wong Ching Leong of Noble House, the other team members include Dim Sum Chef Mak Tin Woi of Oriental Pavilion, Chef Choong Yaw Loong and Sous Chef Yam Yoon Loy of Noble Mansion and BBQ Chef Wai Kok Cheng of Oriental Treasure. Collectively they had 88 years of service and more than 150 years of kitchen experience.

Priced at RM3,888 per table of 10 persons, the 8-course menu opened with a festive curtain-raiser of Soft Shell Crab and Crispy Enoki Mushroom Fruit and Vege Salad. Reminiscent of yee sang, the assorted vegetable and fruit julienne tossed with roasted sesame and wasabi mayo dressing paved the way for more of the chefs’ culinary arsenal.

Using bird’s nest for creating dessert is normal but to incorporate the pricey ingredient into a savoury dish makes it distinctive. The clear, delicately flavoured broth of the Double Boiled Superior Bird’s Nest Stuffed in Chicken alone was superb. Bamboo pith and ginkgo lent textural interest whilst dried scallops accentuated the soup with a touch of umami.

Crisp meets supple-soft texture in the show-stopping Deluxe Roast Suckling Pig Platter. 

Chef Wai’s BBQ expertise shines through the shiny, crackling skin which is placed on top of meltingly tender Iberico pork slice wrapped around goose liver sausage and spring onion. Slicked with char siew sauce, the delectable morsel was paired with soft mantou to complete the sublime speciality.

For the Braised Whole 5 head Abalone with Dried Seafood in Whole Lotus Root, we were told the huge lotus root was sourced from Hebei. Hollowed out at the centre, the lotus root is then braised for 4-5 hours and soaked overnight. Steamed until cooked, it’s filled with the braised abalones, dried scallops and black mushrooms.

We love the dish’s lip-sticking sauce, redolent with umami-rich taste of the filling which had thoroughly seeped into the soft yet gently tender lotus root. The abalones’ toothsome chewiness stood out in pleasing contrast.

The dim sum element was represented by a dainty Taro Pear with Kurobuta Pork. It was agreeable although more of that delish pork filling would proffer better mouthfeel.

Anniversary celebration inevitably means noodles to denote longevity and Braised Ramen with King Prawn marked the occasion. The slippery smooth ramen played a coy supporting role, allowing the fresh sweetness of king prawn to shine. Personally, I reckon springier sang meen works better for this dish but the chefs call the shot...

 

I went nuts over the lightly sweetened Almond Cream with Egg White. A classic dessert blending Chinese sweet and bitter almonds (nam hung, pak hung) or apricot kernels, some diners may find the natural nutty-floral scent offensive but I like it. Suffice to say I lapped up every drop and my partner’s portion too.

Between the Jade Corn Dessert and Green Tea Mochi, the latter fared better. The red bean-studded green tea cream filling was a nice surprise as we bit into the thin chewy skin. I didn’t care much for the former – it was too insipid for such a grand occasion.

The Grand Dinner dates from 8 to 28 August 2024 will be held at different restaurants under The Oriental Group. However, the special a la carte and set menus will be available until end September for diners who couldn’t make it to the Grand Dinners.

For more information and reservations, contact The Oriental Group, visit: https://www.orientalrestaurants.com.my/